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		<title>Hunting Dog Vests</title>
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		<description><![CDATA[Hunting Vest for a Dog http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=81&#38;t=20061 by twofeathers What are your feelings on hunting vests for dogs? Will be hunting Pheasant this fall with new pup, should I get him a vest and should I go neoprene or cotton or what &#8230; <a href="http://gundogforum.com/blog/2011/hunting-dog-vests">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
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<h1>Hunting Vest for a Dog</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=81&amp;t=20061">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=81&amp;t=20061</a></h2>
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<div>by twofeathers</div>
<div>What are your feelings on hunting vests for dogs? Will be hunting Pheasant this fall with new pup, should I get him a vest and should I go neoprene or cotton or what has worked for you all.</div>
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<div>by fishvik</div>
<div>I only use a neoprene vest when I&#8217;m waterfowl hunting with my dogs. I used to use a blaze orange saddle type vest when I hunted with my chocolate lab/pointer X because with her coat color she was hard to spot in thick brush when she was on point. I guess I never had alot of trouble with my dogs getting there bodies scraped up. Muzzles, noses, eyes and ears are another story.</div>
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<div>by brdhntr</div>
<div>I have had my dogs tear themselves up something fierce. I have a dog who has a scar from the base of his neck, to the end of his rib cage. When the weather is not to warm, my dogs wear vests. One of my dogs sliced right through a neoprene vest, it has about a 4 inch long slice. The vest did do its job however, he was not injured. I can only imagine how serious that one would have been.</div>
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<div>by BigShooter</div>
<div>In certain types of cover I use a chest protector (thin, saddle type) on my Shorthair bitches. I&#8217;m more careful with its use during warm weather. I never use neoprene except for water work. Although I have a couple of neoprene vests I never even use them on the shorthairs when hunting in five degree below zero weather. Just be careful with any vest and watch for chaffing, especially just behind the front legs or underneath straps (depending on the design).</div>
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<div>by birddogsunlimited</div>
<div>i run skid plates on my pointers in the feild and if im hunting in cold temps i will put the neoprean ones on but those are usually set aside for duck hunting</div>
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<div>by RoundRiver Setters</div>
<div>I use skid plate vest on my dogs and recommend them highly. They plently of adjustment for smaller dogs&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;Scott</div>
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<div>by D.T.M.</div>
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<p>Does anyone have any thoughts or comments on brands of neoprene vests?</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
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<div>by BigShooter</div>
<div>I don&#8217;t have a comment on the brands per se. However, I&#8217;ve found chaffing behind the front legs to be more of a problem with neoprene vests, especially with shorter haired dogs. Often one needs to enlarge one or more openings in the vest with a scissors to customize the vest to your dog.</div>
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<div>by birddogsunlimited</div>
<div>i have both avery and cabelas neoprean vest and i like the avery one alot better it seems to be made to a higher quality beter stitching heavyer material and its got a nice handel on the back if you need to pull adog into a blind or boat. it also has a d ring you can clip a leash to built in the back near the neck</div>
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<div>by djswizz</div>
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<p>I just bought the Cabela&#8217;s hunting vest. <a href="http://bit.ly/DNhvP">http://bit.ly/DNhvP</a> Here&#8217;s a picture of it on Guinness:</p>
<p>another</p>
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<div>by ezzy333</div>
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<p>Thats a chest protector and serves a different purpose than a vest.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
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<div>by djswizz</div>
<div>In what sense?</div>
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<div>by ezzy333</div>
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<p>vests are used for warmth, more often than not when doing cold water retrieves or in etremely cold weather. Neoprene is the material of choice. I find them more trouble than they ar eworth for upland hunting and when it gets too cold for the dogs it is way too cold for me too. We get along pretty well when it stays above zero but below that it gets a little rougher on all of us.</p>
<p>The chest protector works pretty well when hunting any kind of stubble that has been cut high enough to rub the chest and stomach of your dogs and can get them pretty raw if hunted in it for longer periods of time.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
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<div>by muddycreek</div>
<div>Never use a vest, see no need to. The one time I saw one used it caused more harm than good, chafing behind the legs, burs undereath etc&#8230; Best advise is to get a second dog and rotate them. <img title="Razz" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif" alt=":P" /></div>
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<div>by Ditch__Parrot</div>
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<p>A couple of posts that helped change my mind regarding the usefulness of vests and chest protectors.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.retrievertraining.net/forums/showthread.php?t=20888&amp;highlight=neoprene+vest">http://www.retrievertraining.net/forums &#8230; prene+vest</a></p>
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<p><cite>Peak wrote:</cite>don&#8217;t know if a vest could of prevented this but it might have. the dog ran something right into the left side of his chest. nearly killed him. still recovering. you guys think one could have prevented this. it was most likely a branch of some sort.</p>
<p><img src="http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z48/peltharre/DogsHunting016.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
<p><img src="http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z48/peltharre/DogsHunting017.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
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<p>from<br />
<a href="http://www.gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=15911">viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=15911</a></p>
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<div>by BigShooter</div>
<div>I don&#8217;t believe chest protectors/skid plates are made of Kevlar so they could not protect the dog from a metal spear sharpened to a point but I&#8217;ve never had a dog&#8217;s skid plate perforated by any object.</div>
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<h1>Dog vest sizing &amp; Roxi swims</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=11460">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=11460</a></h2>
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<div>by wems2371</div>
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<p>Hi. I was curious how tight a neoprene vest should fit on my dog. Tight like a scuba suit? First gun dog and first time using vests. She&#8217;s almost 9 months old and approxi. 55lbs, and we went from a medium to a large&#8211;and feel like even that&#8217;s too small. How tight is too tight? It almost takes two of us to get it on, one to feed the zipper together and one to zip. She&#8217;s wearing it in the photo below and still works freely/okay in it, so hopefully it will last the rest of this season. Won&#8217;t sit when wearing it&#8211;but then she never did want to in the med. either. Oh, and here&#8217;s a real newbie question: When it fits right, will it keep the dog dry? Just curious.</p>
<p>Posted on &#8220;Chat&#8221; about 5 days ago, about &#8220;Waterwork with Roxi&#8221; and video link. Took her out yesterday, and she now swims better than I do. Video link below to NEW swimming footage. Sorry if pics are huge&#8211;I&#8217;m working on learning that. Denise</p>
<p><a href="http://s199.photobucket.com/albums/aa283/redhotroxi/?action=view&amp;current=DSCN1941.flv">http://s199.photobucket.com/albums/aa28 &#8230; CN1941.flv</a></p>
<p><img src="http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa283/redhotroxi/DSCN1934.jpg" alt="Image" /><br />
<img src="http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa283/redhotroxi/DSCN1946.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
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<div>by mtlee</div>
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<p>From the pictures and the video it looks like the vest fits fine to me. My female weighs 56 lbs and a large will fit her snugly, an XL is a little loose. I think its better to be snug than loose. Especially in the front because if it is loose water just dumps in the front and I would think it has to create resistance when the dog is swimming.</p>
<p>No the vest will not keep the dog dry&#8230;it holds a layer of water next to their body, which their body temperature heats up and keeps them warm&#8230;like insulation. At least that is my understanding of how it works. My shorthair stays plenty warm with it on, but then again it doesn&#8217;t get that cold around here.</p>
<p>None of the vest really fit the versatiles that well&#8230;they&#8217;re all made for labs/chessies/goldens, etc. Which obviously have different body types.</p>
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<div>by Wagonmaster</div>
<div>Its better to be snug than loose. Loose produces chaffing, especially at edges such as the openings for the legs. Not real tight though.</div>
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<div>by CherrystoneWeims</div>
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<div>My female weighs 56 lbs and a large will fit her snugly, an XL is a little loose.</div>
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<p>OK Matt, I have to ask you. Are you using a vest here in SC??? I&#8217;ve never used one on my dogs.</p>
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<div>by BigShooter</div>
<div>In case you don&#8217;t know &#8230; neoprene vests are good for water work &#8230; not so great in the field. Watch for chafing around the arm holes. During dry field work be careful the dog doesn&#8217;t overheat. Don&#8217;t be afraid to custom fit with a little scissor work.</div>
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<div>by mtlee</div>
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<p><cite>CherrystoneWeims wrote:</cite></p>
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<div>My female weighs 56 lbs and a large will fit her snugly, an XL is a little loose.</div>
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<p>OK Matt, I have to ask you. Are you using a vest here in SC??? I&#8217;ve never used one on my dogs.</p>
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<p>I use it if its really &#8220;cold&#8221; and we&#8217;re waterfowl hunting&#8230;I think I used it once or twice this year&#8230;one day it was snowing and I put it on her. I really use it for protection from stumps and stuff more than anything&#8230;Lake Moultrie is FULL of underwater stumps! I&#8217;ve seen what one can do to a dog&#8217;s chest, not a pretty site!</p>
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<div>by jcbuch</div>
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<p>at least for wet suits a neoprene vest should fit snuggly. allowing a thing layer of water to get between the body and vest. Your body then heats up this thin water layer creating another insulating layer. Unprotected the body would lose heat rapildy to the colder water.</p>
<p>Joe</p>
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<div><a href="http://www.gundogsupply.com/dogvestparka.html">http://www.gundogsupply.com/dogvestparka.html</a></div>
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<h1>Deer Hunters and Dogs</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=25575">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=25575</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>Winchey</strong></div>
<div>So deer season is starting here on Monday and I  am not sure if I should be taking the pup out into the grouse woods  during deer season as I have heard some horror stories. I am a pretty  inexperienced grouse hunter and hunted behind, or infront of a boot  licking golden last season so it wasn&#8217;t much of an issue. My new dog is  really getting out there and while I would obviously not hunt where I  knew there was a deer stand, there is always that chance. Deer hunting  is very popular here, the deer hunters probably outnumber the bird  people 1000-1 and the bird dog people 10000-1.</div>
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<div>by <strong>AzHusker</strong></div>
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<p>How long does the season last?</p>
<p>Is there any way to hunt where you are pretty sure they won&#8217;t be after deer?</p>
<p>I&#8217;d  say bright orange on you and the dog would be a good idea as a  precaution, and hunt as far away as possible.  Some of the deer folks  don&#8217;t take kindly to bird hunters and their dog tromping across an area  they&#8217;ve scouted all year for a chance at the big buck.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Ruffshooter</strong></div>
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<p>Personally: I do not generally Ruff hunt in  Nov.For a number of reasons: I do not want my dog shot mistaken for  deer. I do not want my dog shot for chasing deer. I do not want my dog  shot because someone just wants to shoot something. I do not to bother  anyones deer hunt by my dog and my self walking in on a stand on has  done all the work to scout for and set up. I don&#8217;t want to ruin ones  still hunting because my dogs bell and I  just buster the deer out from  under the person.</p>
<p>On occasion I will g to remote areas that I  know pretty well that most do not deer hunt and I do it during the week,  If I see a vehicle I don&#8217;t go in so it is hit or miss.</p>
<p>Rick</p>
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<div>by <strong>Mountaineer</strong></div>
<div>I suppose the one good point to the lack of  Ohio ruffed grouse is that I won&#8217;t be placing a dog at risk&#8230;.I do not  trust deer bowhunters here.<br />
Gun hunters?&#8230;I worry much less.<br />
Just  takes reading some of the deer BBs to see that&#8230;.and that is assuming  that half the respondants are big talking on the Internet.<br />
A lost dog gets cut no slack.<br />
There are some sick folks sitting in trees.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Winchey</strong></div>
<div>Oct 25th &#8211; Nov 20th Grouse is from Oct 1st &#8211;  Dec 4th. I am just dissapointed we haven&#8217;t gotten on as many birds as I  would have liked. Better make the best out of this weekend and the last 2  weeks. There are some trial grounds about an hour north that is closed  to hunting but there are lots of birds there so I will just try to get  up there as much as possible to run him and we can always hit the  waterfowl hunting hard too.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Winchey</strong></div>
<div>Archery season here opened on October 5th I  believe and also runs to the 20th. I am not as worried about them for  some reason, maybe it is misguided. However there is certainly not as  many of them compared to guns.</div>
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<div>by <strong>KFhunter</strong></div>
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<p>As long as you don&#8217;t hunt a main gravel road you should be ok  <img title="Wink" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" /></p>
<p>auctually  kidding aside its the truth,  most of my grouse hunting is going up a  main gravel road then parking at a not so well travelled or better yet  blocked off spur then walk in.</p>
<p>I would think if your hunting  grouse woods you could do the same and avoid 99% of the deer hunters, if  a vehicle is parked at a spur keep going until you find one that no  one&#8217;s been in on, look for fresh sign.</p>
<p>Deer hunters arn&#8217;t going to want to hunt the deep dark woods either</p>
<p>also, get an orange vest for your dog</p>
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<div>by <strong>Ruffshooter</strong></div>
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<p>[Deer hunters arn't going to want to hunt the deep dark woods either]</p>
<p>That is not the case.  If one is a foot hunter and is in the big woods, they/we go where the big deer are.</p>
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<div>by <strong>mudhunter</strong></div>
<div>In PA we have deer hunting the entire Grouse  season, its just a fact of hunting in PA.  The grouse season does close  for the two weeks of rifle deer season (you would be crazy to try to  hunt a dog in the woods around here then!)</div>
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<div>by <strong>BillGraves</strong></div>
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<div><cite>mudhunter wrote:</cite>In  PA we have deer hunting the entire Grouse season, its just a fact of  hunting in PA.  The grouse season does close for the two weeks of rifle  deer season (you would be crazy to try to hunt a dog in the woods around  here then!)</div>
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<p>You got that right!  A lot of  times, in the State Game Land anyway, it&#8217;s like a drunken pumpkin patch!   No way am I taking my dog out in that!</p>
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<div>by <strong>Winchey</strong></div>
<div>I bet NewBrunswick you give Pennsylvania a run  for it&#8217;s money when it come to crazies. I had the dog out on basically a  4 wheeler trail the other night and we met about 6 pickup trucks out  for birds. There were spots I was walking that I was wishing I had of  brang waders and these guys were driving their trucks through this stuff  on trails half as wide as their trucks to shoot a couple birds. Then  during deer season there will be no shortage of stories about people  getting shot at for getting to close to stands let alone dogs. My  brother met a fella a couple seasons ago and asked him if he seen  anything. The fella replied &#8220;no not yet, but I got off a couple sound  shots though.&#8221;</div>
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<div>by <strong>birddogger</strong></div>
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<p>While there are some legitimate concerns here, I  really hate to see hunters, who hunt one type of game, bashing and/or  generalizing about hunters who have a different venue. We all need to  support each other&#8217;s sport, standing together against groups that are  pushing to bring all hunting to an end. I used to deer hunt and would  get upset when I would here negative comments, lumping us all into one  category and get even more upset when other hunters or fishermen were  making those comments. Deer hunters have as much of a right to pursue  their sport as we do ours.</p>
<p>Personally, I don&#8217;t bird hunt during  deer season her in Illinois, not so much for safety reasons, but as a  courtesy to the deer hunters. They only have a few day a year to hunt  deer and I don&#8217;t want to take a chance on interfering with there hunt.  Anyway, these are my feelings on the subject.</p>
<p>Charlie</p>
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<div>by <strong>dasia24</strong></div>
<div>There were spots I was walking that I was  wishing I had of brang waders and these guys were driving their trucks  through this stuff on trails half as wide as their trucks to shoot a  couple birds. These all are great to know about it.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Mountaineer</strong></div>
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<div><cite>birddogger wrote:</cite>&#8230;.  Deer hunters have as much of a right to pursue their sport as we do  ours&#8230;&#8230;.. They only have a few day a year to hunt deer and I don&#8217;t  want to take a chance on interfering with there hunt. Anyway, these are  my feelings on the subject.</div>
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<p>Yeees but&#8230;. bowhunters have a loooong season.</p>
<p>Watch your dogs closely if bowhunters are in the woods.</p>
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<div>by <strong>ezzy333</strong></div>
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<p><cite>birddogger wrote:</cite>While  there are some legitimate concerns here, I really hate to see hunters,  who hunt one type of game, bashing and/or generalizing about hunters who  have a different venue. We all need to support each other&#8217;s sport,  standing together against groups that are pushing to bring all hunting  to an end. I used to deer hunt and would get upset when I would here  negative comments, lumping us all into one category and get even more  upset when other hunters or fishermen were making those comments. Deer  hunters have as much of a right to pursue their sport as we do ours.</p>
<p>Personally,  I don&#8217;t bird hunt during deer season her in Illinois, not so much for  safety reasons, but as a courtesy to the deer hunters. They only have a  few day a year to hunt deer and I don&#8217;t want to take a chance on  interfering with there hunt. Anyway, these are my feelings on the  subject.</p>
<p>Charlie</p>
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<p>Right on Charlie.  Most deer hunters are also bird hunters and just as responsible as the people we all know.</p>
<p>Occasionally  there is a bad one and we need to take care of that instead of sitting  back and letting them ruin the reputation of our sport.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
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<div>by <strong>Mountaineer</strong></div>
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<div><cite>ezzy333 wrote:</cite>&#8230;Right on Charlie.  Most deer hunters are also bird hunters and just as responsible as the people we all know&#8230;.</div>
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<p>Not in Ohio, I wager.<br />
The bad ones do make the loudest noise but SSS is often heard on deer BBs.<br />
The problem will mostly arise if a dog becomes lost or veers onto someone else&#8217;s property or, especially, leased ground.<br />
Not as large an issue, of course, with a dog and birdhunter together&#8230;bowhunters are not stupid.<br />
Things can happen tho to disconnect dogs and hunters&#8230;another plus for a Garmin.</p>
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<div>by <strong>dog dr</strong></div>
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<p><cite>Mountaineer wrote:</cite></p>
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<div><cite>ezzy333 wrote:</cite>&#8230;Right on Charlie.  Most deer hunters are also bird hunters and just as responsible as the people we all know&#8230;.</div>
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<p>Not in Ohio, I wager.<br />
The bad ones do make the loudest noise but SSS is often heard on deer BBs.<br />
The problem will mostly arise if a dog becomes lost or veers onto someone else&#8217;s property or, especially, leased ground.<br />
Not as large an issue, of course, with a dog and birdhunter together&#8230;bowhunters are not stupid.<br />
Things can happen tho to disconnect dogs and hunters&#8230;another plus for a Garmin.</p>
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<p>I  agree. And, for rvery ethical deer hunter that would just look the  other way when somebodys dog ran thru, i bet i know 2 that would shoot  it and not think twice.  some of them are just morons that think the dog  is chasing &#8220;their&#8221; deer.</p>
<p>you guys are right, we need to ALL  stand up together against the antis, and i think the majority of folks  would do the right thing, BUT, I have sewed up too many dogs that had an  arrow put thru them, and heard too many billy badasses talk about how  they put a stop to that deer running dog.</p>
<p>and in my personal  experience, there are way more drunken slobs that are shotgun/rifle deer  hunters than any other type of hunters i have encountered.  i know not  all of them are, but i see plenty.</p>
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<div>by <strong>stlgsp</strong></div>
<div>There&#8217;s no getting around deer season in MO.   Archery season runs the length of quail season, Nov. firearm is 10 days  with another 10 or 11 days of anterless only in several counties and  then 10 days for blackpowder in Dec.  If I go out during the firearm  season I stick to areas that restrict deer hunting and still put a lot  of orange on the dogs.<br />
Maybe it&#8217;s just me but I find it odd that the  youth only dates for deer and quail are the same weekend.  Just seems  like sooner or later there is going to be a problem.</div>
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<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>birddog1968</strong></div>
<div>In most Maryland Counties it is perfectly  legal, as spelled out in the law, to shoot dogs chasing deer&#8230;.problem  is, it is about impossible to prove your dog wasn&#8217;t chasing deer if<br />
someone takes offense to seeing them in the woods and shoots them.</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>birddogger</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div>There are people everywhere, screaming at their dogs and shooting all over the place, its a madhouse!<br />
I got my 11yr old kid with me, this is his first time afield with license and he is a bit taken aback.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>I  suspect every venue has some undesirable people and those people and  situations need to be dealt with, but it is not unique to deer hunting.</p>
<p>Charlie</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>BigShooter</strong></div>
<div>
<p>Many residents of Minnesota do not even know  the law regarding dogs afield and think a dog can be killed anytime it  is seen around a big game animal. The fact of the matter is a single dog  running after a full grown deer with no snow on the ground is highly  unlikely to be able to endanger the animal. Here is the excerpt from MN  Hunting &amp; Trapping Regulations:</p>
<p>Dogs Pursuing Big Game<br />
No persons may allow their dog to chase or kill big game.<br />
Between January 1 and July 14, a dog that is observed wounding,<br />
killing, or pursuing in a way that endangers big game may be killed by<br />
any person. A peace officer or conservation officer may kill a dog that<br />
endangers big game at any time of the year. The officer or person is not<br />
liable for damages for killing the dog.</p>
<p>Important: Other hunting seasons are open before, during, and after<br />
the deer season. Many hunters use dogs to hunt upland game, waterfowl,<br />
rabbits, raccoons, foxes, and coyotes. Dogs may not be shot during<br />
fall hunting seasons, even if seen pursuing big game, except by a<br />
conservation or peace officer.</p>
<p>As  has already been mentioned, arrowing or shooting a dog is virtually  never observed by a third party. All the owner knows is their dog just  disappeared. I know a dog owner that hunts birds &amp; deer and has said  he wouldn&#8217;t think twice about killing another person&#8217;s dog if it  strayed onto his land or interfered with his hunt.</p>
<p>P.S. I&#8217;m a big  game hunter &amp; have personally experienced way more idiots out  during the deer rifle/shotgun season than at any other time in the fall.</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>birddogger</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I am very careful to make sure that I or my  dogs don&#8217;t interfere with another person&#8217;s hunt, regardless of what they  are hunting. It is called being considerate. Maybe I have just been  lucky, but I have never run across the type of people being discussed  here, other than a couple here and there, and I have been hunting all my  life.</p>
<p>Charlie</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>birddogger</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div>P.S. I&#8217;m a big  game hunter &amp; have personally experienced way more idiots out  during the deer rifle/shotgun season than at any other time in the fall.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>I  am sure this is true, but the woods and fields are going to have more  hunters out than any other time of the year. So the sheer number of  people are raising the odds that there will be more jerks out than any  other time of the year. JMO.</p>
<p>Charlie</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>Mountaineer</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div><cite>birddogger wrote:</cite>I  am very careful to make sure that I or my dogs don&#8217;t interfere with  another person&#8217;s hunt, regardless of what they are hunting. It is called  being considerate. &#8230;</div>
</blockquote>
<p>Sadly, accidents  resulting in lost dogs can occur&#8230;has nothing at all to do with being  considerate&#8230;.may not even be while hunting.<br />
&#8220;Considerate&#8221;&#8230;that&#8217;s mildly insulting.<br />
I had a dog climb a fence from thunder fear once&#8230;it was early bow season.<br />
No issue thank God but&#8230;.<br />
Again, bow season is seldom of a short length.<br />
A pup can also stray over a fence line in the relatively small coverts in the East&#8230;bad luck, accidents and stuff happens.</p>
<p>Regarding  gun and bowhunters&#8230;..while I expect more general bad behavior by  group gun hunters acting like high-school kids, I expect more deliberate  acts against dogs will occur from bowhunters.<br />
The competition  inherent in deerhunting for many; the increasing leasing costs and  difficulty in finding a lease; the feeling of being infringed upon  should a dog misread a posted sign on &#8220;his&#8221; 30 acres; or having a  neighbor who does not keep their farm dog tied and so the bowhunter has  been pissed off all season&#8230;and more can all lead to problems for a pup  and owner.</p>
<p>I drove into Canaan Valley from the north last year.  Most of the drive in is thru leased ground. Bowhunter camps along the  way saw hunters glaring at dog boxes and the feeling of dislike was  palpable.<br />
No, it is not everyone with stick and string&#8230;.may even be regional, tho I doubt it.<br />
However,  bowhunter ranks have swelled tremendously in  the last years and as the  odds fall to issues with numbers of gun hunters for their one week then  so it also falls with the greater number of bowhunters for their many  weeks.<br />
So&#8230;believe it or not, experienced it or not, bowhunting for  deer has changed and has apparently changed some of it&#8217;s participants.<br />
Perhaps, the bowhunters need to understand that a birdhunter has a right to pursue their sport as well.<br />
PC away the possibility of increased bad actors in a tree at your pup&#8217;s risk.</p>
<p>Personally,  I could not begin to care less about hunters sticking up for  hunters&#8230;compared to a pup writhing on the ground from some idiot&#8217;s  arrow.</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>birddogger</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div>Considerate&#8221;&#8230;that&#8217;s mildly insulting.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>Wow, somebody is a little sensitive.</p>
<p>Charlie</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>ACooper</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<p><cite>birddogger wrote:</cite></p>
<blockquote>
<div>Considerate&#8221;&#8230;that&#8217;s mildly insulting.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>Wow, somebody is a little sensitive.</p>
<p>Charlie</p>
</div>
</blockquote>
<p>What exactly is insulting about making an effort not to interfere with another persons hunt?</p>
</div>
</div>
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<div>
<div>by <strong>BigShooter</strong></div>
<div>I believe the poster&#8217;s point was, all  circumstances resulting in a dog being near a bow or rifle hunter are  not the result of simply being &#8220;inconsiderate&#8221;. I took a narrow view of  Charlie&#8217;s post, that he was preaching &#8220;when one has a choice, be  considerate of others&#8221;. However, if a dog for any reason escapes being  secured, is rangeing big in the woods, is lost or any number of other  accidental circumstances, being considerate also applies to any yahoo  that would attempt to kill another&#8217;s dog. If anyone sees a dog in the  woods or field &#8220;apparently unaccompanied&#8221; one time, what gives that  person the right to assume the owner is being inconsiderate, the dog is  endangering big game, and the dog should be killed? A dog well known to  be allowed to run free and habitually part of a local pack of domestic dogs running free, pursuing and killing deer is another matter entirely.</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>ezzy333</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I have bowhunted for years and am yet to see a  dog in the field without a hunter in the area that  was shot or even  shot at, as it would be plain stupid to shoot a dog with someone that  close that the dog would run to.  Thats not saying it hasn&#8217;t happened  but luckily idiots that hunt are still in the minority and will continue  to be if we police our own sport.  I also do agree there are many more  ethics handicapped hunters in the gun hunting deer camps than any place  else I have experienced.  But have not seen that in the bow hunters I  have known.</p>
<p>Charlie,  you are right on and anything I can do that  shows respect to our fellow hunters and trappers is not optional but a  requirement in my book.  I still find that the golden rule is a  wonderful guide in all aspects of life.  And there sure isn&#8217;t anything  insulting about living life as we all should.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>BigShooter</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div><cite>ezzy333 wrote:</cite>am yet to see a dog in the field without a hunter in the area</div>
</blockquote>
<p>Aye,  there&#8217;s the crux of the matter. One of my shorthairs with a charged up  TT collar &amp; transmitter was off the chain at my cabin after July  14th this summer. I have done this before. While backing up a trailer I  looked away from her for a couple of minutes. As soon as I exited the  truck I called for her. She did not  return. I used the TT with no  response. She was gone from my ten acres. Across the road, the  neighbor&#8217;s yard borders hundreds of acres of State forest land.  Why she  ran &amp; where she went I have no idea but wouldn&#8217;t be surprised if  she was chasing one of the over-abundant deer in the area.</p>
<p>Several  years ago, knowing I had dogs, one of my neighbors that grew up in the  community warned me there were folks in the immediate area that would  shoot dogs off leash or dogs seen chasing a deer. This is a neighbor I  get along well with and have for over twenty years so he wasn&#8217;t trying  to warn me about his own actions.</p>
<p>A loose dog is an accident waiting to happen.</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>wems2371</strong></div>
<div>
<p>Consideration and understanding should extend  both ways afield.  Granted I&#8217;m positive there are discourteous people on  both sides, but one side does not inflict a fatal wound on anothers  hunting partner.  When it comes to stray dogs, when the owner thinks  unfenced and unleashed Fido never leaves the yard, my pity doesn&#8217;t run  as deep for the repeated nuisance this inflicts on the rest of us&#8230;whether it be hunters, landowners, or farmers.</p>
<p>When  shotgun opens here, it is nuts&#8211;especially on the weekend.  You will  hear continually how someone only has such and such weekend to hunt or  such and such day off&#8230;so it creates a frenzy in my opinion.  We had  totally forgotten about shotgun opener last year, and travelled an hour  from home, only to see a bunch of folks in orange driving around every  road.  We picked a patch of open prairie grass with a fringe of trees on  the boundaries, that you would easily be able to see orange in.  We ran  the dogs with orange vests and left the gun in the truck.  After the  trip, we just wanted to put them down for 15 minutes or so and head  back.  We did okay until one of the dogs ran a ridge line.  Over the  ridge line, there was more prairie grass and then eventually some  timber, and the trees on the boundary line got denser as well.  I did  NOT want my dogs going over that ridge, and instantly called the one  back.  I no sooner got her back to me, than a guy in an orange jumpsuit  appeared on the ridge line, and started screaming at us from 200&#8242; away.   We got read the riot act about didn&#8217;t we know this was his time to  hunt, we had no right to be there, he&#8217;d been out all morning chasing  deer, he only had this weekend, and yadayadayada.  We yelled back that  we had no intention of going where he had come from, but he continued to  rant.  Eventually I mentioned calling a DNR officer to see if those  licenses we had bought really did give us the right to be out there.  <img title="Rolling Eyes" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif" alt=":roll:" /> Confrontation over and we headed our different ways, with us working  the field back to the parking lot, just as we had planned.  It was a  rotten day after that, stewing over the event.  While I do appreciate  the &#8220;warning&#8221;, it all could&#8217;ve went smoother.  If he&#8217;d come over that  ridge and yelled, &#8220;Guy&#8217;s we&#8217;re hunting deer over here and would  appreciate it if you kept your dogs away for their own safety.&#8221;  We  would&#8217;ve yelled back, &#8220;Hey we&#8217;re sorry, we weren&#8217;t going to head that  way anyway, but we appreciate the warning&#8230;and we&#8217;re sorry if we  disturbed anything.&#8221;  We are both archers, and my husband is after all a  bowhunter.  While the stranger in the orange jumpsuit was out chasing  deer all morning, there&#8217;s no doubt he might&#8217;ve been moving off some  pheasant or ruining any rare chance at a quail.  It goes both ways, but  many have the mindset that they own all the public ground, when it&#8217;s  their season.</p>
<p>Right now, we are hunting ducks in some of the  same habitat as a bowhunter might place a stand.  Short of staying home  while everyone else&#8217;s season is going on, conflicts of interest are  always possible.  So I will go out, but assess the risk as I do so.  I  will pay better attention to shotgun weekend, and avoid it all together.   I look for how many vehicles are in the parking lot, and what kind of  gear they have, i.e. dog boxes or truck decals that might denote what  they&#8217;re in to.  I orange up my dogs, and myself of course.  My dogs  always wear collars with nametags.  If I&#8217;m hunting with both dogs down, I  put the Garmin on the one who listens the least (which is still pretty  darn good), so that I know if she&#8217;s heading into a risk zone and I need  to call her back.  If I enter a field with another vehicle in the  parking lot, I will occasionally call my dogs or blow the whistle, so  that a deer hunter will have no excuse not to know I&#8217;m there with dogs  and approximately how close.  Granted the OP&#8217;s post was about grouse  woods, which due to the species shared environment, puts more of a spin  on it.  But if I avoided hunting pheasant during deer season, I&#8217;d have 2  days of December 9th &amp; 10th to hunt.</p>
<p>Iowa<br />
Pheasant October 30th-January 10th<br />
Deer Archery October 1st-December 3rd and then December 20th-January 10th<br />
Deer Muzzleloader October 16th-24th and then December 20th-January 10th<br />
Deer Shotgun December 4th-8th and then December 11th-19th</p>
<p>On  a side note, and maybe this is already being implemented, is there any  part of the Hunter Safety course that covers sharing the land  courtesy-wise between the different types of hunters and the use of  dogs?  I&#8217;m of the age that I didn&#8217;t need to take the course, so I don&#8217;t  know what it entails.  But covering the topic with the upcoming  generations, might create a better understanding between the groups.</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>ezzy333</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<p><cite>BigShooter wrote:</cite></p>
<blockquote>
<div><cite>ezzy333 wrote:</cite>am yet to see a dog in the field without a hunter in the area</div>
</blockquote>
<p>Aye,  there&#8217;s the crux of the matter. One of my shorthairs with a charged up  TT collar &amp; transmitter was off the chain at my cabin after July  14th this summer. I have done this before. While backing up a trailer I  looked away from her for a couple of minutes. As soon as I exited the  truck I called for her. She did not  return. I used the TT with no  response. She was gone from my ten acres. Across the road, the  neighbor&#8217;s yard borders hundreds of acres of State forest land.  Why she  ran &amp; where she went I have no idea but wouldn&#8217;t be surprised if  she was chasing one of the over-abundant deer in the area.</p>
<p>Several  years ago, knowing I had dogs, one of my neighbors that grew up in the  community warned me there were folks in the immediate area that would  shoot dogs off leash or dogs seen chasing a deer. This is a neighbor I  get along well with and have for over twenty years so he wasn&#8217;t trying  to warn me about his own actions.</p>
<p>A loose dog is an accident waiting to happen.</p>
</div>
</blockquote>
<p>I agree and I also might shoot a dog tht was chasing deer if it had no  collar, had been seen before chasing, or I had never seen the dog in  the neighborhood before.  But a dog with a collar and an e-collar  wouldn&#8217;t be considered a wild dog that is a nuisance.</p>
<p>But it could and am sure it has so it does behoove anyone to be careful and not ask for trouble.</p>
<p>Wild cats and dogs are both fair game when in the woods or chasing.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>AzHusker</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div><cite>BigShooter wrote:</cite> I&#8217;m a big game hunter &amp; have personally experienced way more idiots  out during the deer rifle/shotgun season than at any other time in the  fall.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>No doubt.  Lot&#8217;s of beer guts out there  for their once-a-year outing in the woods.  It&#8217;s these guys that give  all hunters a bad name.</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>Mountaineer</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<p><cite>birddogger wrote:</cite></p>
<blockquote>
<div>Considerate&#8221;&#8230;that&#8217;s mildly insulting.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>Wow, somebody is a little sensitive.</p>
<p>Charlie</p>
</div>
</blockquote>
<p>I said mildly.<br />
I  would like to think that I am &#8220;considerate&#8221; when I hunt as well&#8230;if I  see someone in a tree, which is not altogether difficult with the leaves  off, then I head another way&#8230;.same as if I saw another birdhunter.<br />
I hope I am &#8220;considerate&#8221; in other ways as well.<br />
The  point tho, that you chose to ignore, is that dogs can become seperated  at times other than hunting and, when hunting, by circumstances the  hunter, with the best intentions and most consideration, may find  impossible to prevent.<br />
If you and your dog are perfect then bully for you.<br />
I  simply have zero faith that every vertical or horizontal  stick&amp;stringer will act with anything but that which concerns their  own narrow interest, especially as their own ranks grow.<br />
As I stated,  no bowhunter is dumb enough to shoot a dog with it&#8217;s hunter  around&#8230;.there are other circumstances however when a string could well  be plucked.<br />
Anyone only wants to look at scenarios that fit only  their belief of what happens in the world and woods&#8230;. then I wish  their pups well.</p>
<p>Seperating &#8220;wild&#8221; cats from Tammy&#8217;s pet and  considering stray dogs &#8220;fair game&#8221; is a terrible but predictable  attitude and preciously the one which the bowhunters adopt as a mantra.<br />
Determining  when a cat is wild or if a dog is a &#8220;deer-chasing stray&#8221; or if a tired  dog looks lost and frightened  is the tough issue&#8230;.not all dogs wear  loads of collars, a dog can slip a collar and being able to make a  judgement in the woods&#8230;a judgement for which there is no return&#8230;.may  fall  more to guess than surety, with frustration perhaps playing a  part.<br />
I suppose once buried any mistake can be forgotton more easily&#8230;I will never know.<br />
Remember also that bowhunters are often very close to houses.<br />
In truth, many folks also do not know the difference in dogs&#8230;a dog is a dog, to them.</p>
<p>There  is also the &#8220;chase&#8221; itself. 1 mile and steady is far different than 100  yards and tired but if that 100 yards or less flows past a bowhunter  then a dead dog may result.<br />
I guess most disagree but I believe that a dog&#8217;s, any dog&#8217;s, life is worth more than a deer on the wall&#8230;I find that very sad.</p>
<p>We  all try to be careful in the woods or fields, and consideration is not  only for those most perfect, but a short look past our own experiences  may help a dog sometime&#8230;may help it live.<br />
This is ultimately a  small problem rangewide that becomes large only when it is our own  dog&#8230;.but valuing other hunters wants above a birddog collared with a  mistake is pretty stupid&#8230;.I chose not to live that way.<br />
JMHO.</p>
<p>I have hunted Iowa in deer season&#8230;.crazy road drivers but the hunters would see us and use us to push deer toward them.<br />
Never came close to harm with 2 or 4 legs but luck may have been involved.</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>birddogger</strong></div>
<div>I can&#8217;t imagine how my comments would be taken  as mildly insulting or as Mark said, preaching. It sure wasn&#8217;t intended  that way. The topic is about deer hunters and dogs and I was just  stating how I deal with that time of the year. I will also add that when  a dog is running free, it is in danger regardless of the time of the  year. They get poisened, ran over by vehicles, shot, etc. I have known  of incidents where a driver ran over a dog without trying to stop or  avoid hitting the dog. There will always be evil people.</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>Mountaineer</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div><cite>birddogger wrote:</cite>&#8230;. There will always be evil people.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>I  suggest that they, the evil people, are increasing in percentage and in  the way they spend their free time, all equating to more dangers for  pup than in the past.</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>Winchey</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I guess most disagree but I believe that a dog&#8217;s, any dog&#8217;s, life is worth more than a deer on the wall&#8230;I find that very sad.</p>
<p>Completely  agree with most of what you said. In my province only conservation  officers have the authority to shoot loose dogs, but a lot of hunters,  including a lot of my friends, and family members wouldn&#8217;t think twice  about shooting a dog if it disturbed their hunt. I think bird hunters  should do their best to stay out of other hunters way and those with the  mentality that it is ok to shoot dogs should take a step back and  realize it is not the end of the world if they don&#8217;t get their deer.</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>twofeathers</strong></div>
<div>[quote="wems2371"<br />
On a side note, and maybe  this is already being implemented, is there any part of the Hunter  Safety course that covers sharing the land courtesy-wise between the  different types of hunters and the use of dogs?  I'm of the age that I  didn't need to take the course, so I don't know what it entails.  But  covering the topic with the upcoming generations, might create a better  understanding between the groups.[/quote]</p>
<p>Just took HS with my  son this fall. While hunting ethics were a big part of the course no  mention of sharing land with other &#8220;types&#8221; of hunters. There were  scenarios of meeting other hunters afield and how to approach that  situation.</p>
<p>When I was into rabbit hunting with dogs I actually  had a hunter during shotgun season on public hunting tell me I was  harassing him running my dogs and he called the DNR. Never heard from or  saw the DNR so I imagine I was in the right. I don&#8217;t know if you have  ever heard five or six beagles in the woods on chase but its not sneaky.  <img title="Laughing" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" /></p>
<p>I  personally no longer take my dogs out during the shotgun seasons,  especially on weekends, unless on private land where no one else should  be. A confrontation afield while armed can go bad quick and should  always be avoided.</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>prairiefirepointers</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I&#8217;m thankful that I&#8217;m blessed with a plethora  of private hunting ground. There&#8217;s a couple sections I hunt that get  leased out to a Texas based oil company durring rifle season (deer  only). I just stay away from those areas, not because I&#8217;m afraid my dogs  would wander into that area and they&#8217;d shoot em, but because they pay  the landowner about 15K for that ground each year during deer season.  They&#8217;re a pretty good group of ol boys.</p>
<p>IF however, someone did  shoot, shoot at, hit, maim, kill, or toss a rock in anger at my dogs,  It&#8217;d be a long day for me afield, shoveling.<br />
I go by the code of the 3S rule. Shoot, Shovel, Shut up.   <img title="Laughing" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" /></p>
<p>&#8220;no officer, I have not seen anyone in this area, or matching that description&#8230; Really?&#8230; Vanished huh? .. Weird&#8221;  <img title="Wink" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" /></p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>birddogger</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div>When I was  into rabbit hunting with dogs I actually had a hunter during shotgun  season on public hunting tell me I was harassing him running my dogs and  he called the DNR. Never heard from or saw the DNR so I imagine I was  in the right. I don&#8217;t know if you have ever heard five or six beagles in  the woods on chase but its not sneaky.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>You  may have been legal, but you were not showing  any consideration or  respect for a fellow hunter. Some may say I am insulting or preaching,  but I am just saying we all need to show some respect for each other. I  would think that most public hunting grounds would be closed to other  types of hunting during a short shotgun season, but maybe not.</p>
<p>On  another note, I was a bow hunter for several years and it is a  wonderful sport. Nothing will get your heart pumping faster than  harvesting a big game animal with a bow and arrow. I heard negative  comments and had people look down on me when I would mention being a bow  hunter, which I never understood. As Ezzy mentioned in an earlier post,  the bow hunters I was around were some of the most ethical hunters I  have ever encountered. It is sad that a few bad apples can be perceived  as the majority.</p>
<p>Charlie</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>Mountaineer</strong></div>
<div>I bowhunted as well.<br />
First with a Bear Kodiak and then a Jennings Shooting Star, all many years ago&#8230;I dropped the sport as boring.<br />
While  I saw no thrill equal to a birddog&#8217;s moves and points, or even to a  turkey gobbling 15 yards behind me, bowhunters do work very hard for  their sport and invest heavily in time and money.<br />
Many are ethical in  all ways(even baiting) but others are concerned with payback on  investment or brags in barbershops, first and second.<br />
IMHO, their  attitude is changing as their numbers grow&#8230;I prefer to walk with eyes  open to change rather than narrowed with memories.</p>
<p>On a further  note, I expect some bowhunters got/get an odd look as they always have  the first chance at the largest bucks and some adopt a hunting  superiority based on weapon( check out what many BHs think of using a  crossbow  <img title="Wink" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" /> )&#8230;you will have that attitude with humans.</p>
<p>Not  knowing all the facts should make it difficult to call anyone  inconsiderate&#8230;were I to see a rabbit hunter in a field and to hear a  hunter in a tree yelp about it, I would be hardpressed to say who was  inconsiderate w/o the facts.<br />
Closing down other hunters for a short gun season seems to be a fair trade-off&#8230;tough to do with months-long bow seasons tho.<br />
Again, that is often the issue&#8230;.along with accidents and misjudgements based on frustration.</p>
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<div>by <strong>AzHusker</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<p><cite>birddogger wrote:</cite></p>
<blockquote>
<div>
<p>As  Ezzy mentioned in an earlier post, the bow hunters I was around were  some of the most ethical hunters I have ever encountered. It is sad that  a few bad apples can be perceived as the majority.</p>
<p>Charlie</p>
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<p>Around  here, the sheer committement of time and energy tends to weed out the  idiots who hunt with bows.  All the bowhunters I know are focussed,  dedicated sportsmen who LIVE for that 30 second encounter with the  animal they&#8217;ve been dreaming about all year.  Most of them are also in  pretty darn good physical shape because they scout so in the mountains  so extensively in the pre-season.</p>
<p>Fortunately, there are no birds  in elk country around here.  There are deer in the desert in quail  habitat, but one thing Arizona has a abundance of is public land.  Not  an abundance of big game or birds or rain, but there is plenty of public  land, so conflicts between deer hunters and bird hunters with dogs are  pretty rare, I would guess.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s the rifle-season camps that house drunken fools, at times.</p>
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<div>by <strong>ezzy333</strong></div>
<div>
<p>This reminds me of the old story about a guy  moving to a new area and he asked someone he met what the people were  like in the area, and the person replied &#8220;what are they like where you  come  from&#8221; and the answer was really nice and friendly and he was told  they were the same here.   Shortly after that another person stopped the  same guy and said he was moving there and wanted to know about the  people in the area and when asked what they were like where he was  moving from, he said cold ,distant, and couldn&#8217;t be trusted and he was  told that he would find them the same there.</p>
<p>I think we all tend  to find what we are looking for.  I do know from experience there are a  few in every group that just don&#8217;t get the message and there probably  are more of them when a large group get together such as gun hunting  deer camps or just hunting in large groups.  Seems it is important to  try and out do everyone else at the expense sometimes of the law and  good ethics.  But thank God, most are just as responsible as we are.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
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<div>by <strong>prairiefirepointers</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I&#8217;m thankful for deer hunters for the most  part. There are bad apples in all walks of life. Deer are a nuisance  here in my area of Kansas. They&#8217;re pretty to look at, but when you get a  birdseye view of one as you plow one over with your vehicle, your  perception changes. I personally, think there should be no retribution  against poaching deer in our area, as long as they kill the doe&#8217;s. For  the most part there isn&#8217;t. Every once in a while you hear about someone  getting caught and prosecuted, but rarely. I know there&#8217;s alot of &#8220;booze  cruising&#8221; for deer done at night.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve had &#8220;encounters&#8221; with  deer hunters before. For the most part they want to stay out of your way  as much as you want to stay away from them. Deer hunters with an ounce  of sence won&#8217;t hunt a section of ground they know is going to be hunted  by people in orange Vests toting shotguns and several dogs quartering  the field in front of them. Although, on second thought, if you HAVE to  hunt public ground, then that&#8217;s a sticky situation. Who has MORE right  to hunt that area?</p>
<p>Glad I don&#8217;t have to deal with that nonsense.</p>
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<div>by <strong>prairiefirepointers</strong></div>
<div>
<p>A sidenote:</p>
<p>Kansas has the WIHA program  (walk in hunting area) which was introduced in 1995. As of 2004 there  was over 1 MILLION acres enrolled into this program. Certain area&#8217;s of  WIHA are NOT allowed for Firearms Deer Hunting. IF I had to hunt public  ground, I would make dang sure that I only hunted the area&#8217;s on the map  that were outlined in red during Deer season.</p>
<p>Part of being a responsible hunter means taking precautions to avoid putting yourself into a &#8220;situation&#8221; in the first place.  <img title="Wink" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" /></p>
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<div>by <strong>birddogger</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<p><cite>prairiefirepointers wrote:</cite>A sidenote:</p>
<p>Kansas  has the WIHA program (walk in hunting area) which was introduced in  1995. As of 2004 there was over 1 MILLION acres enrolled into this  program. Certain area&#8217;s of WIHA are NOT allowed for Firearms Deer  Hunting. IF I had to hunt public ground, I would make dang sure that I  only hunted the area&#8217;s on the map that were outlined in red during Deer  season.</p>
<p>Part of being a responsible hunter means taking precautions to avoid putting yourself into a &#8220;situation&#8221; in the first place.  <img title="Wink" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" /></p>
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<p>Ditto!!</p>
<p>Charlie</p>
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<div>by <strong>birddogger</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div>Not knowing  all the facts should make it difficult to call anyone  inconsiderate&#8230;were I to see a rabbit hunter in a field and to hear a  hunter in a tree yelp about it, I would be hardpressed to say who was  inconsiderate w/o the facts.<br />
Closing down other hunters for a short gun season seems to be a fair trade-off&#8230;tough to do with months-long bow seasons tho.<br />
Again, that is often the issue&#8230;.along with accidents and misjudgements based on frustration.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>I  said closing down areas during a short shotgun season, which in  Illinois is three days the first season and four days the second season.  Nothing was mentioned about bow hunting in the post you are referring  to. The facts are that a rabbit hunter was running a pack of beagles  during shotgun season with deer hunters present. I am not arguing who  has more right. If it is open to all hunters, then of course they all  have the same right to be there. I am talking about ethics and common  courtesy, not to mention the safety factor. Again, I am not talking  about a bow hunter in a tree, yelling down at a rabbit or bird hunter.  That is a totally different situation. It would be frustrating for the  bow hunter and may ruin his hunt, but it happens and he would be wrong  to yell at the upland hunter unless it was intentional IMO. Surely we  can agree on this. I actually had this to happen to me one time when I  was pheasant hunting on state property. This guy in a tree accused me of  interfering with his deer hunt. Not only did I not know he was there,  but this particular area on the state ground was a controlled pheasant  hunting area and off limits to bow hunters. He was a jerk and in the  wrong. <img title="Wink" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" /></p>
<p>Charlie</p>
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<div>by <strong>birddogger</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<p><cite>ezzy333 wrote:</cite>This  reminds me of the old story about a guy moving to a new area and he  asked someone he met what the people were like in the area, and the  person replied &#8220;what are they like where you come  from&#8221; and the answer  was really nice and friendly and he was told they were the same here.    Shortly after that another person stopped the same guy and said he was  moving there and wanted to know about the people in the area and when  asked what they were like where he was moving from, he said cold  ,distant, and couldn&#8217;t be trusted and he was told that he would find  them the same there.</p>
<p>I think we all tend to find what we are  looking for.  I do know from experience there are a few in every group  that just don&#8217;t get the message and there probably are more of them when  a large group get together such as gun hunting deer camps or just  hunting in large groups.  Seems it is important to try and out do  everyone else at the expense sometimes of the law and good ethics.  But  thank God, most are just as responsible as we are.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
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</blockquote>
<p>Good story and so true.</p>
<p>Charlie</p>
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<div>by <strong>BigShooter</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<p><cite>birddogger wrote:</cite></p>
<blockquote>
<div>
<p><cite>ezzy333 wrote:</cite>This  reminds me of the old story about a guy moving to a new area and he  asked someone he met what the people were like in the area, and the  person replied &#8220;what are they like where you come  from&#8221; and the answer  was really nice and friendly and he was told they were the same here.    Shortly after that another person stopped the same guy and said he was  moving there and wanted to know about the people in the area and when  asked what they were like where he was moving from, he said cold  ,distant, and couldn&#8217;t be trusted and he was told that he would find  them the same there.</p>
<p>I think we all tend to find what we are  looking for.  I do know from experience there are a few in every group  that just don&#8217;t get the message and there probably are more of them when  a large group get together such as gun hunting deer camps or just  hunting in large groups.  Seems it is important to try and out do  everyone else at the expense sometimes of the law and good ethics.  But  thank God, most are just as responsible as we are.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
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<p>Good story and so true.</p>
<p>Charlie</p>
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<p>&#8230;and I never met another person I didn&#8217;t like &#8230;.. some &#8230; I just like a whole lot better than others!  <img title="Wink" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" /></p>
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<div>by <strong>Mountaineer</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div><cite>birddogger wrote:</cite>&#8230;. Nothing was mentioned about bow hunting in the post you are referring to&#8230;..</div>
</blockquote>
<p>OK&#8230;I have seen shotgunners perched in tree stands <img title="Smile" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" /> but &#8230;w/o going thru everything again, I continue to maintain that  bowhunters have changed to the negative as their numbers have increased  and for some of the reasons I mentioned.<br />
To a birddog&#8217;s loss.<br />
You don&#8217;t see it that way&#8230;okie-dokie, that is between you, your dogs and your Vet.</p>
<p>I  think we all do see what we are looking for most times&#8230;.either thru  wide-open eyes or those closed against seeing change in a fellow hunter  of whatever weapon.<br />
I simply care more about dogs than hunters&#8230;that is my burden, I guess.</p>
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<div>by <strong>smokinsam</strong></div>
<div>cant bird hunt during gun season here either.<br />
as far as bow hunters go,if i know the area there at i simply stay away from it.I paid for my license to!<br />
my dogs run with beepers and bells so no good reason to shoot them.even if he was chasin a deer.<br />
its ethics and common sense.</div>
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<p><!-- /* proSilver Print Style Sheet                         - 	Author: subBlue  ( http://www.subBlue.com/ ) 	Version: 25 August 2004  	Copyright 2004 phpBB Group                         -*/   /* Lots still TODO here! */  /* General markup styles */ * { 	padding: 0; 	margin: 0; }  body { 	font: 11pt Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	color:#000000; }  a:link		{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:visited	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:active	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; }  img, .noprint, #sub-header, #sub-footer, .navbar, .box1, .divider, .signature { display: none; }  /* Container for the main body */ #wrap { 	margin: 0 2em; }  p { font-size: 85%; } .copyright { font-size: 75%; } .page-number { float:right; width: auto; text-align: right; font-size: 75%; }  h1, h2, h3, h1 a, h2 a, h3 a { 	font-family: "Trebuchet MS",georgia,Verdana,Sans-serif; 	color: #000000; 	background: none; 	text-decoration: none; 	font-weight: bold; }  h1 { font-size: 20pt; } h2 { font-size: 16pt; margin-top: 1em; } h3 { font-size: 14pt; margin-top: 1em; }  .content { 	font-size: 11pt; 	line-height: 14pt; 	margin-bottom: 1em; 	font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	overflow: hidden; }  /* CSS2 Print tip from: http://www.alistapart.com/articles/goingtoprint/ */ .postbody a:link, .postbody a:visited, .postbody a:active, .postbody a:hover { 	text-decoration: underline; 	padding: 0.1em 0.2em; 	margin: -0.1em -0.2em; 	color: #666; 	background: none; 	font-size: 100%; }  html>body .postbody a:link:after, html>body .postbody a:visited:after { 	content: &#8221; (&#8221; attr(href) &#8220;) &#8220;; 	font-size: 90%; 	text-decoration: none; }  hr { 	height: 1px; 	background-color: #999999; 	border-width: 0; }  .author { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	font-size: 75%; 	margin-bottom: 0.6em; }  .date { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	float: right; 	position: relative; 	text-align: right; 	font-size: 75%; }  /* Dont want to print url for names or titles in content area */ .postbody .author a:link, .postbody .author a:visited,  html>body .postbody .author a:link:after,  html>body .postbody .author a:visited:after, .postquote .quote-by a:link, .postquote .quote-by a:visited,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:link:after,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:visited:after, html>body .postbody h1 a:link:after, html>body .postbody h2 a:link:after { 	text-decoration: none; 	content: &#8220;&#8221;; }  /* Poster profile */ .postprofile { display: none; } .grip-show { display:none; }  /* Quote */ .postquote { 	font-size: 85%; 	margin: 1em 18% 1em 4%; 	padding: 0.5em; 	position: relative; 	line-height: 1.5em; 	border: 1px #999999 solid; }  .postquote img { display: none; } .postquote span { display: block; } .postquote span .postquote { font-size: 100%; } .quote-by { font-weight: bold; }  /* Misc page elements */ div.spacer { clear: both; }  /* Accessibility tweaks: Mozilla.org */ .skip_link { display: none; } &#8211;></p>
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<h1>cold weather gear</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=21447">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=21447</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>basspow</strong></div>
<div>any recommendation for shooting gloves and headwear when the weather really gets COLD.</div>
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<div>by <strong>ohiohuntinweim</strong></div>
<div>I just use mechanix style gloves, works pretty  well. Found a pair at home depot that are lightly insulated but still  have good dexterity for when it gets really cold. If I wear too much on  my dome i start to sweat when I am out. If its cold a blaze orange  fleece windstopper stocking hat, sorta cold I tie a dew rag on under a  ball cap.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Ruffshooter</strong></div>
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<p>I am not sure what you mean by really cold, but:</p>
<p>1) Wear a good vest, keeping your core warm helps keep your hands warm and feet. Same with a good wool hat.<br />
2)  Most of the time it is a matter of cutting down the wind on your hands.  I use thin when the temp is down below 20&#8242;s Walmart had some.<br />
3) A  glove with fleece or wool work pretty well if not too tight so as to  allow air flow around your fingers. Keep your hands dry.<br />
4) Just a  note on boots, many folks keep their boots inside or in a warm spot in  camp or the house. Don&#8217;t do that, keep them by the door or in a cool  spot. When you have your boots in a warm or hot spot they retain the  heat and you put them on, (feels good until you get out for a while  walking) your feet sweat and your feet get cold quickly in most cases  regardless of how many grams of insulation, except maybe the polar boots  the army wears in the artic.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
<div>not sure what you are describing in real cold-  yesterday morning was 17 degree and 18 mph wind- deerskin gloves,  thermal underwear, canvas bibs and a sweatshirt- course I was walking  behind 4 bird dogs and not standing facing the wind</div>
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<p><!-- /* proSilver Print Style Sheet                         - 	Author: subBlue  ( http://www.subBlue.com/ ) 	Version: 25 August 2004  	Copyright 2004 phpBB Group                         -*/   /* Lots still TODO here! */  /* General markup styles */ * { 	padding: 0; 	margin: 0; }  body { 	font: 11pt Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	color:#000000; }  a:link		{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:visited	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:active	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; }  img, .noprint, #sub-header, #sub-footer, .navbar, .box1, .divider, .signature { display: none; }  /* Container for the main body */ #wrap { 	margin: 0 2em; }  p { font-size: 85%; } .copyright { font-size: 75%; } .page-number { float:right; width: auto; text-align: right; font-size: 75%; }  h1, h2, h3, h1 a, h2 a, h3 a { 	font-family: "Trebuchet MS",georgia,Verdana,Sans-serif; 	color: #000000; 	background: none; 	text-decoration: none; 	font-weight: bold; }  h1 { font-size: 20pt; } h2 { font-size: 16pt; margin-top: 1em; } h3 { font-size: 14pt; margin-top: 1em; }  .content { 	font-size: 11pt; 	line-height: 14pt; 	margin-bottom: 1em; 	font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	overflow: hidden; }  /* CSS2 Print tip from: http://www.alistapart.com/articles/goingtoprint/ */ .postbody a:link, .postbody a:visited, .postbody a:active, .postbody a:hover { 	text-decoration: underline; 	padding: 0.1em 0.2em; 	margin: -0.1em -0.2em; 	color: #666; 	background: none; 	font-size: 100%; }  html>body .postbody a:link:after, html>body .postbody a:visited:after { 	content: &#8221; (&#8221; attr(href) &#8220;) &#8220;; 	font-size: 90%; 	text-decoration: none; }  hr { 	height: 1px; 	background-color: #999999; 	border-width: 0; }  .author { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	font-size: 75%; 	margin-bottom: 0.6em; }  .date { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	float: right; 	position: relative; 	text-align: right; 	font-size: 75%; }  /* Dont want to print url for names or titles in content area */ .postbody .author a:link, .postbody .author a:visited,  html>body .postbody .author a:link:after,  html>body .postbody .author a:visited:after, .postquote .quote-by a:link, .postquote .quote-by a:visited,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:link:after,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:visited:after, html>body .postbody h1 a:link:after, html>body .postbody h2 a:link:after { 	text-decoration: none; 	content: &#8220;&#8221;; }  /* Poster profile */ .postprofile { display: none; } .grip-show { display:none; }  /* Quote */ .postquote { 	font-size: 85%; 	margin: 1em 18% 1em 4%; 	padding: 0.5em; 	position: relative; 	line-height: 1.5em; 	border: 1px #999999 solid; }  .postquote img { display: none; } .postquote span { display: block; } .postquote span .postquote { font-size: 100%; } .quote-by { font-weight: bold; }  /* Misc page elements */ div.spacer { clear: both; }  /* Accessibility tweaks: Mozilla.org */ .skip_link { display: none; } &#8211;></p>
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<h1>K-9 Skid Plate?</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=14776">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=14776</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>GSPVIZ</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I think I may need to get one of these for my  Viz. She comes home from a couple of hrs in the field and she is all  torn up on her underside. I guess that is what happens when you have  very little hair there.</p>
<p>She is also the type that gets very cold in the winter here in NJ. Do they make a skid plate/coat combo unit?</p>
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<div>by <strong>PrairieGoat</strong></div>
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<p>Yep&#8230;Cabelas has got one&#8230;.saw it today on  their website.  Can&#8217;t speak to the quality, but most things I get from  them seem to be pretty good.</p>
<p>Randy</p>
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<div>by <strong>demi</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I bought this one from Cabellas this summer&#8211;haven&#8217;t used it yet, but the the quality is very good.</p>
<p><img src="http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/llrothen/New%20vest%20aug%202008/3b54c8a4-1.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
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<div>by <strong>wems2371</strong></div>
<div>I&#8217;ve got a neoprene vest (Redhead I  think/Cabella&#8217;s) that has kevlar material on the bottom side.  So far so  good there.  It&#8217;s too heavy/hot to use right now.  Ran into a farm  store this morning and bought a cheapo Remington Skid Plate for  visibility and protection as we took pup to public ground this  afternoon.  It fit well when putting it on, but I was not happy the way  it works it&#8217;s way back on the dog during movement, pulling on the top  side of the neck, and gets tight on the shoulders.  I would think at the  end of a long day that it might rub raw or at least impede good gait,  speed, and movement.  So I guess I&#8217;m going to have to do some cutting,  sewing, and improvising.  But I also would be interested in one that  fits proper and stays in place&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..  Denise</div>
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<p><!-- /* proSilver Print Style Sheet                         - 	Author: subBlue  ( http://www.subBlue.com/ ) 	Version: 25 August 2004  	Copyright 2004 phpBB Group                         -*/   /* Lots still TODO here! */  /* General markup styles */ * { 	padding: 0; 	margin: 0; }  body { 	font: 11pt Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	color:#000000; }  a:link		{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:visited	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:active	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; }  img, .noprint, #sub-header, #sub-footer, .navbar, .box1, .divider, .signature { display: none; }  /* Container for the main body */ #wrap { 	margin: 0 2em; }  p { font-size: 85%; } .copyright { font-size: 75%; } .page-number { float:right; width: auto; text-align: right; font-size: 75%; }  h1, h2, h3, h1 a, h2 a, h3 a { 	font-family: "Trebuchet MS",georgia,Verdana,Sans-serif; 	color: #000000; 	background: none; 	text-decoration: none; 	font-weight: bold; }  h1 { font-size: 20pt; } h2 { font-size: 16pt; margin-top: 1em; } h3 { font-size: 14pt; margin-top: 1em; }  .content { 	font-size: 11pt; 	line-height: 14pt; 	margin-bottom: 1em; 	font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	overflow: hidden; }  /* CSS2 Print tip from: http://www.alistapart.com/articles/goingtoprint/ */ .postbody a:link, .postbody a:visited, .postbody a:active, .postbody a:hover { 	text-decoration: underline; 	padding: 0.1em 0.2em; 	margin: -0.1em -0.2em; 	color: #666; 	background: none; 	font-size: 100%; }  html>body .postbody a:link:after, html>body .postbody a:visited:after { 	content: &#8221; (&#8221; attr(href) &#8220;) &#8220;; 	font-size: 90%; 	text-decoration: none; }  hr { 	height: 1px; 	background-color: #999999; 	border-width: 0; }  .author { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	font-size: 75%; 	margin-bottom: 0.6em; }  .date { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	float: right; 	position: relative; 	text-align: right; 	font-size: 75%; }  /* Dont want to print url for names or titles in content area */ .postbody .author a:link, .postbody .author a:visited,  html>body .postbody .author a:link:after,  html>body .postbody .author a:visited:after, .postquote .quote-by a:link, .postquote .quote-by a:visited,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:link:after,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:visited:after, html>body .postbody h1 a:link:after, html>body .postbody h2 a:link:after { 	text-decoration: none; 	content: &#8220;&#8221;; }  /* Poster profile */ .postprofile { display: none; } .grip-show { display:none; }  /* Quote */ .postquote { 	font-size: 85%; 	margin: 1em 18% 1em 4%; 	padding: 0.5em; 	position: relative; 	line-height: 1.5em; 	border: 1px #999999 solid; }  .postquote img { display: none; } .postquote span { display: block; } .postquote span .postquote { font-size: 100%; } .quote-by { font-weight: bold; }  /* Misc page elements */ div.spacer { clear: both; }  /* Accessibility tweaks: Mozilla.org */ .skip_link { display: none; } &#8211;></p>
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<h1>duck dogs</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=24216">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=24216</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>blueweimer</strong></div>
<div>I was wonderin how good of a duck dog does a weimaraner make are they very hearty in cold water</div>
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<div>by <strong>Birddogz</strong></div>
<div>I&#8217;ve known a couple, and both were very good. Not Lab good, but what dog is? <img title="Very Happy" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" /> Wiems are up to the task for sure.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Greg Jennings</strong></div>
<div>Depends on the water and on the dog.  I would keep a close eye on a weim sent into icy water in cold weather.</div>
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<div>by <strong>mcbosco</strong></div>
<div>Almost all the duck hunting where I live is  coastal, so choppy bays, salt rivers, marsh areas etc.  Its rare to not  see a Lab here given the chop, winds and cold temps. When its not a Lab  its a Chessie.</div>
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<div>by <strong>zzweims</strong></div>
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<p>Here in the south, versatiles and boykins are  common in the duck blind.  The lab is still most popular, but the poor  things have trouble with the heat.  Up north, your weim should be fine,  just put a vest on him for warmth and watch that he doesn&#8217;t get too  cold.</p>
<p>Aline<br />
<!-- m --><a href="http://zzfarms.com">http://zzfarms.com</a><!-- m --></p>
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<div>by <strong>Birddogz</strong></div>
<div>Being a northerner it is strange to hear that a  duck dog was too hot while hunting. When I visualize the ultimate duck  hunting scenario the wind is blowing at 20 miles an hour, it is sleeting  stinging my face, and the greenheads are arriving from Saskatchewan by  the tens of thousands. Never a warm scenario. Just goes to show you how  different southern hunting can be I suppose.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Greg Jennings</strong></div>
<div>We had a Teal season in TN in Sept.  Heat could  have been a problem then.  Regular duck season was basically Dec and  Jan.   We had to work hard to keep the hole from freezing up too thick  to break.  I never saw anything but labs and the occasional chessie.   Then again, I never saw anything but pointers, setters and the  occasional Britt, bird hunting either.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Birddogz</strong></div>
<div>I know DDs can handle retrieving in cold weather.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Greg Jennings</strong></div>
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<p>Mass, coat, inclination, exposure time,  shelter/heat between retrieves, etc. all play in.  I&#8217;d have to try a  weim unless I had serious doubts about those factors.</p>
<p>My V, for example, couldn&#8217;t take cold water.  Too thin and too cold natured.  He&#8217;d be great in the teal season, though.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Ruffshooter</strong></div>
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<p>Most Wiems would be fine. Till Ice in.</p>
<p>What  really gets some of our dogs is the wind.  If the water is open then it  is above freezing or in current and either way in the thirties at  least.</p>
<p>Some Wiems have good size and good bone.  Thinner boned dogs have a harder time with cold than thicker boned dogs.</p>
<p>A Vest is good.<br />
My  Mercy GSP 50 pound dog duck hunts down into high 30&#8242;s unless strong  winds. Then it is my 50 pound Black French Brit. His coat and bone is  heavier. He hunts into thin ice. Some wind. Beyond that Chessie,  Lab,Goldens,FLat coateds, Novia Scotia Duck Tollers, Boykins, ESS, AS ,  GWP, DD, Spinone etc.<br />
<img src="http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh42/Ruffly/Woodydekesonthewater009.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
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<div>by <strong>JKP</strong></div>
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<div>I know DDs can handle retrieving in cold weather.</div>
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<p>Yes  they can but as much as tough water retrieving may be a function of  desire, I still think the Labs and Chessies physically have the edge  when the going really gets tough.  That&#8217;s what they are made for.  I  have had DD break ice, sit next to me in the horizontal snow waiting for  the ducks to come in, but I put &#8216;em in some neoprene&#8230;guess that makes  me a softy.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Birddogz</strong></div>
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<p><cite>JKP wrote:</cite></p>
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<div>I know DDs can handle retrieving in cold weather.</div>
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<p>Yes  they can but as much as tough water retrieving may be a function of  desire, I still think the Labs and Chessies physically have the edge  when the going really gets tough.  That&#8217;s what they are made for.  I  have had DD break ice, sit next to me in the horizontal snow waiting for  the ducks to come in, but I put &#8216;em in some neoprene&#8230;guess that makes  me a softy.</p>
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<p>I was not trying to say they were equal to a Lab, Chessie, Golden, Toller. They are in leagues by them selves.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Packer lakerfan4</strong></div>
<div>I use my german shepherd when duck hunting,  he&#8217;s no lab but his drive makes up for it! loves the cold and HATES THE  HEAT so it works out good here in KS. a friend of mine uses a weim and  shes awesome but its like once it gets a certin temperature she stops  enjoying it&#8230;so he made a bag and filled it with thoes hand warmers not  the wimpy wal-mart kind but actual heat packs and put the bag full in  her dog blind, has not had a problem with her yet that i can recall in  cold weather! so maybe it just depends on the dog??</div>
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<p><!-- /* proSilver Print Style Sheet                         - 	Author: subBlue  ( http://www.subBlue.com/ ) 	Version: 25 August 2004  	Copyright 2004 phpBB Group                         -*/   /* Lots still TODO here! */  /* General markup styles */ * { 	padding: 0; 	margin: 0; }  body { 	font: 11pt Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	color:#000000; }  a:link		{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:visited	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:active	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; }  img, .noprint, #sub-header, #sub-footer, .navbar, .box1, .divider, .signature { display: none; }  /* Container for the main body */ #wrap { 	margin: 0 2em; }  p { font-size: 85%; } .copyright { font-size: 75%; } .page-number { float:right; width: auto; text-align: right; font-size: 75%; }  h1, h2, h3, h1 a, h2 a, h3 a { 	font-family: "Trebuchet MS",georgia,Verdana,Sans-serif; 	color: #000000; 	background: none; 	text-decoration: none; 	font-weight: bold; }  h1 { font-size: 20pt; } h2 { font-size: 16pt; margin-top: 1em; } h3 { font-size: 14pt; margin-top: 1em; }  .content { 	font-size: 11pt; 	line-height: 14pt; 	margin-bottom: 1em; 	font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	overflow: hidden; }  /* CSS2 Print tip from: http://www.alistapart.com/articles/goingtoprint/ */ .postbody a:link, .postbody a:visited, .postbody a:active, .postbody a:hover { 	text-decoration: underline; 	padding: 0.1em 0.2em; 	margin: -0.1em -0.2em; 	color: #666; 	background: none; 	font-size: 100%; }  html>body .postbody a:link:after, html>body .postbody a:visited:after { 	content: &#8221; (&#8221; attr(href) &#8220;) &#8220;; 	font-size: 90%; 	text-decoration: none; }  hr { 	height: 1px; 	background-color: #999999; 	border-width: 0; }  .author { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	font-size: 75%; 	margin-bottom: 0.6em; }  .date { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	float: right; 	position: relative; 	text-align: right; 	font-size: 75%; }  /* Dont want to print url for names or titles in content area */ .postbody .author a:link, .postbody .author a:visited,  html>body .postbody .author a:link:after,  html>body .postbody .author a:visited:after, .postquote .quote-by a:link, .postquote .quote-by a:visited,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:link:after,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:visited:after, html>body .postbody h1 a:link:after, html>body .postbody h2 a:link:after { 	text-decoration: none; 	content: &#8220;&#8221;; }  /* Poster profile */ .postprofile { display: none; } .grip-show { display:none; }  /* Quote */ .postquote { 	font-size: 85%; 	margin: 1em 18% 1em 4%; 	padding: 0.5em; 	position: relative; 	line-height: 1.5em; 	border: 1px #999999 solid; }  .postquote img { display: none; } .postquote span { display: block; } .postquote span .postquote { font-size: 100%; } .quote-by { font-weight: bold; }  /* Misc page elements */ div.spacer { clear: both; }  /* Accessibility tweaks: Mozilla.org */ .skip_link { display: none; } &#8211;></p>
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<h1>How to ?? GSP and waterfowl hunting</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=25466">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=25466</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>frankie&#8217;s</strong></div>
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<p>Hi,</p>
<p>Duck season is now open in  Massachusetts, went yesterday and had to leave my 17 months gsp in her  kennel, and it kind of broke my heart to see her whimping and crying  when I was reaching for my boots and getting my shotgun.<br />
She is a  great dog in the field answering to the most important command, she  likes water but is essentially trained for pheasant, grouse and  woodcock. After hunting woodcocks I brought her this morning to the  swamp and she directly jumped in the water when she saw some ducks. I  would love to bring her with me tomorrow but I am scared that I will get  her confused if I start shooting at flying ducks with her not pointing  them or even seeing them. Am I stressing too much knowing that GSP are a  versatile breed ?? what are the first steps I should do to start  bringing her with me.<br />
Thank You</p>
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<div>by <strong>Hotpepper</strong></div>
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<p>Take her with you and have fun.  Not a bunch of  guys as all the shooting might cause a new issue.  Just the 2 of you  will not hurt a thing.</p>
<p>I am a person that believes the more feathers you get in the dog&#8217;s mouth the better the dog will be.</p>
<p>Pepper</p>
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<div>by <strong>Ruffshooter</strong></div>
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<p>Take her just make her sit while you stroke her  up and such. Bring some dog bones for when it is slow, When the ducks  come in shootem and let her go get it. Don&#8217;t wait till the action dies  down as that may confuse her or drop down her excitement for hte ducks.  You may want to bring some rocks if she is not hand signal trained to  help get her down wind of the downed duck. She won&#8217;t see those as well.   Like said only go with yourself and hopefully there are not to many  others out there or close by. Again confusion.</p>
<p>Next season you  can work on the duck stuff as well as the upland. She will learn the  difference if you treat it different. This is going to be an  introduction to this type of hunting for her, so keep it fun for her.  but she does need to mind in the blind or boat or canoe, especially a  canoe.</p>
<p>I hunt my GSP and French brits duck hunting and all upland.</p>
<p>Rick</p>
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<div>by <strong>jt807</strong></div>
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<div><cite>Ruffshooter wrote:</cite>She will learn the difference if you treat it different.<br />
Rick</div>
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<p>Rick,</p>
<p>How  do you go about treating them differently?  I have wondered the same  thing about confusing a mostly upland dog when using for just retrieving  work.</p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
JT</p>
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<div>by <strong>tasi devil</strong></div>
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<p>there&#8217;s a reason they are called Versatiles or Utility dogs, they were bred for it.</p>
<p><a href="http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s250/tasidevil/April09Victrip035.jpg"><img src="http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s250/tasidevil/th_April09Victrip035.jpg" alt="Image" /></a>- <a href="http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s250/tasidevil/spotlightrabbitsmanuka002.jpg"><img src="http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s250/tasidevil/th_spotlightrabbitsmanuka002.jpg" alt="Image" /></a>-<a href="http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s250/tasidevil/Hare-Zeiger-AYA53022.jpg"><img src="http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s250/tasidevil/th_Hare-Zeiger-AYA53022.jpg" alt="Image" /></a></p>
<p>she will work it out, take someone with you the first couple of trips to shoot one duck at a time while you keep her steady.<br />
make sure she can see the ducks come in and the fall to shot. keep your mouth shut if you can and let her put it together.<br />
good  luck, there is a lot of enjoyment sitting in a blind or in the tussocks  with your dog waiting, sipping coffee, thinking, calling them into the  dekes.</p>
<p>&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..tasi</p>
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<div>by <strong>Dave C</strong></div>
<div>Yeh take her mate, they learn nothing stuck in there house.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Ruffshooter</strong></div>
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<p>Tasi Devil; Pretty much give you a good way to start.</p>
<p>But to answer the differently part.<br />
1)  Just the nature of duck hunting from a blind or boat is different. The  dog has to be with you sitting lying or standing fairly still.   (Although when one of my dogs wants to go for a short walk when we are  in the blind I let them.)<br />
2)  The dog is not going to the live bird,  the bird is coming to you, after a while the dog will start to see that  happen, (Watch for the ducks)and &#8220;for some reason you shoot (in the dogs  eyes) and I get to go for a retrieve when sent&#8221; (So the dog does not  ever have the opportunity to point the bird.)<br />
3)  If you are jump  shooting the ducks usually are in the water and mostly will not flush  because your dog is running the shore the ducks, usually will fly when  you show your mug and you shoot at  them, then the pup gets his  retrieve, hopefully.<br />
4)  The scent of the duck is different and the  dog will learn to associate that scent (along with the types of  circumstances)with a certain manner or behaviour and more so when you go  often and actually train your dog to be a good duck dog.</p>
<p>So for  the most part the activities are shooting, retrieving, steadiness, and  birds. Those are the things that are the same. But the circumstances are  far different till the retrieve.</p>
<p>Hope this helps. If not let me know and I will try to be more clear, which is difficult for me. <img title="Wink" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" /><br />
Just had a hunt with my ole girl Mercy yesterday afternoon. Check out the hunting section.<br />
Rick</p>
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<div>by <strong>Oscar</strong></div>
<div>No problem, go with your GSP , they are v dogs.  Many years I was hunting with  weimaraner , water and land and the dogs  know hunting two &#8211; and other too  <img title="Very Happy" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" /> -.</div>
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<div>by <strong>nooblet</strong></div>
<div>Get a vest.  The Avery Boater&#8217;s Vest is really a  handy little sucker.  It&#8217;s also easy to modify (which you will need to  do with your dog&#8217;s body).  PM me if you cant find instructions on it.   BUT get a vest!</div>
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<div>by <strong>Winchey</strong></div>
<div>If you can get your dog to sit quitely for a  while bring her. I brang my 10 month old SM out a couple times this  year. By his second hunt he was just sitting there scanning the sky, It  was pretty neat to look over at him at one point and look at what he was  looking at. Sure enough it was a small flock off in the distance. He  did actually lock up at one point when a flock was coming in. He has  retrieved 10 ducks and had a blast and there was no ill effect in the  uplands, he runs bigger and faster if anything. If she retrieves birds  on land and retrieves things from water and will sit patiently, take her  out, dont expect much and make it fun. You will probably be pleasantly  suprised.</div>
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<div>by <strong>A/C Guy</strong></div>
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<div>
<p><cite>jt807 wrote:</cite></p>
<blockquote>
<div><cite>Ruffshooter wrote:</cite>She will learn the difference if you treat it different.<br />
Rick</div>
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<p>Rick,</p>
<p>How  do you go about treating them differently?  I have wondered the same  thing about confusing a mostly upland dog when using for just retrieving  work.</p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
JT</p>
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<p>Most dogs are a lot  more intelligent than their owners realize. Just go about working the  dog in the field as before and on alternate days, work the dog on water  retrieves and hand signals. She will surprise you at how well she  understands.</p>
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<div>by <strong>mcclinj</strong></div>
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<p>Along those lines, should you use a program  designed for retrievers to teach the waterfowl stuff&#8230;the way you would  a lab? If so, does it matter which training (upland or waterfowl) is  done first?</p>
<p>-John</p>
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<p><!-- /* proSilver Print Style Sheet                         - 	Author: subBlue  ( http://www.subBlue.com/ ) 	Version: 25 August 2004  	Copyright 2004 phpBB Group                         -*/   /* Lots still TODO here! */  /* General markup styles */ * { 	padding: 0; 	margin: 0; }  body { 	font: 11pt Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	color:#000000; }  a:link		{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:visited	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:active	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; }  img, .noprint, #sub-header, #sub-footer, .navbar, .box1, .divider, .signature { display: none; }  /* Container for the main body */ #wrap { 	margin: 0 2em; }  p { font-size: 85%; } .copyright { font-size: 75%; } .page-number { float:right; width: auto; text-align: right; font-size: 75%; }  h1, h2, h3, h1 a, h2 a, h3 a { 	font-family: "Trebuchet MS",georgia,Verdana,Sans-serif; 	color: #000000; 	background: none; 	text-decoration: none; 	font-weight: bold; }  h1 { font-size: 20pt; } h2 { font-size: 16pt; margin-top: 1em; } h3 { font-size: 14pt; margin-top: 1em; }  .content { 	font-size: 11pt; 	line-height: 14pt; 	margin-bottom: 1em; 	font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	overflow: hidden; }  /* CSS2 Print tip from: http://www.alistapart.com/articles/goingtoprint/ */ .postbody a:link, .postbody a:visited, .postbody a:active, .postbody a:hover { 	text-decoration: underline; 	padding: 0.1em 0.2em; 	margin: -0.1em -0.2em; 	color: #666; 	background: none; 	font-size: 100%; }  html>body .postbody a:link:after, html>body .postbody a:visited:after { 	content: &#8221; (&#8221; attr(href) &#8220;) &#8220;; 	font-size: 90%; 	text-decoration: none; }  hr { 	height: 1px; 	background-color: #999999; 	border-width: 0; }  .author { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	font-size: 75%; 	margin-bottom: 0.6em; }  .date { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	float: right; 	position: relative; 	text-align: right; 	font-size: 75%; }  /* Dont want to print url for names or titles in content area */ .postbody .author a:link, .postbody .author a:visited,  html>body .postbody .author a:link:after,  html>body .postbody .author a:visited:after, .postquote .quote-by a:link, .postquote .quote-by a:visited,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:link:after,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:visited:after, html>body .postbody h1 a:link:after, html>body .postbody h2 a:link:after { 	text-decoration: none; 	content: &#8220;&#8221;; }  /* Poster profile */ .postprofile { display: none; } .grip-show { display:none; }  /* Quote */ .postquote { 	font-size: 85%; 	margin: 1em 18% 1em 4%; 	padding: 0.5em; 	position: relative; 	line-height: 1.5em; 	border: 1px #999999 solid; }  .postquote img { display: none; } .postquote span { display: block; } .postquote span .postquote { font-size: 100%; } .quote-by { font-weight: bold; }  /* Misc page elements */ div.spacer { clear: both; }  /* Accessibility tweaks: Mozilla.org */ .skip_link { display: none; } &#8211;></p>
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<h1>Lab vs Vizsla</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=8073">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=8073</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>teej</strong></div>
<div>I have hunted with dogs before but never owned  one myself. I am trying to decied between a Lab and a Vizsla. I know  labs are good dogs and that was originaly what i was going to get. my  friend just got a Vizsla and I fell in love with it. I dont know  anything about them though. What should I do? Teej</div>
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<div>by <strong>gr_elliott</strong></div>
<div>figure out if a pointing breed or a retriver  would be better for your normal hunting, that would be the first step.   they are pretty differant in what they do</div>
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<div>by <strong>teej</strong></div>
<div>I mostly duck hunt and dove hunt so I need a retriver. can you not use a pointer for this also</div>
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<div>by <strong>Grange</strong></div>
<div>Of coarse you can.  There are some really nice  versatile breeds out there.  I own a lab and love hunting with her for  pheasant and gouse, but she&#8217;s also a fantastic retriever and loves cold  water so duck hunting with her would work as well.  My brother-in-law  has a GWP and she could do it all as well.  The visulas I&#8217;ve run into  while hunting if trained and can remain calm in the duck blind would  work for ducks.  My only concern would be with the colder temps, but the  visula owners can chime about that.</div>
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<div>by <strong>KS_Vizsla</strong></div>
<div>Both dogs are great choices.  The majority of  Vizsla I have owned will retrieve.  The lab of coarse would excel in  cold water, etc.  I&#8217;m partial to Vizslas, because they are such a great  all around dog that will hunt many types of birds and animals.  You can  get some labs that will point, but I have never owned one that would.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Don</strong></div>
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<p>Teej,</p>
<p>If what I did was waterfowl and doves, I&#8217;d get the Lab, Boykin or a  Springer. Much as I like pointing breed dogs, and I think the Visla is  the most underated of them, for what you do the Lab is king. The  versitle guys can say what they want, none of them will stay in the game  like a lab.</p>
<p>If you live in a fairly warm climate, I&#8217;d suggest a Springer or  maybe check out a Boykin. No experience with the Boykin but a lot of  good reports flying around. To many for them to be wrong. I started with  Springer&#8217;s and Lab&#8217;s. They are your ticket.</p>
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<div>by <strong>h20fwlkillr</strong></div>
<div>It really depends on what your expectations are  and the individual dog. I mainly duck hunt followed by quail and dove.  My weims do a fine job until the temps get too extreme. Most of the  pointing breeds just aren&#8217;t designed to handle extreme cold like labs or  chessies. When it&#8217;s very cold, either I fetch my own birds or I invite a  buddy of mine and his lab. The nicest thing about my weims is I almost  always follow my duck hunts with a short quail hunt. Not only is it a  chance to warm up the dogs, but it allows me to warm a little as well.<br />
<img src="http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h25/H20fwlkillr/1DuckHunt11-12-06B.jpg" alt="Image" /><br />
<img src="http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h25/H20fwlkillr/06dove3.jpg" alt="Image" /><br />
<img src="http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h25/H20fwlkillr/Zeus1.jpg" alt="Image" /></div>
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<div>by <strong>phermes1</strong></div>
<div>Vizslas would do a fine job retrieving for you,  but I have to agree that a lab would probably be better suited for  duck. I would mainly be concerned with how a vizsla handles the cold  water. It would probably do fine for awhile, but no matter how you cut  it, it doesn&#8217;t have the coat a lab does and I have to think that it  would have a harder time keeping itself warm.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Don</strong></div>
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<p>Nice looking dogs. But I assure you that there  are Retriever owners that will say the same thing, and Spaniel owner&#8217;s.  In fact I even know of a Standard Poodle owner and an Airedale owner  that will say the same thing.</p>
<p>I think the question was what was best the Lab or the Visla. In his  case I&#8217;d have to say the Lab. Then other options for what he want&#8217;s  would have to start with the spaniels.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Ayres</strong></div>
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<p>You know, I hear a lot about how a dog does in  cold water based on its coat, but are you really hunting in such extreme  conditions?  My vizsla swam across a river in January with no problems  whatsoever.  It wasn&#8217;t 50 degrees below zero, but it was normal freezing  temps for January at the time.  If you&#8217;re worried about cold, then just  throw on a neoprene vest.</p>
<p>But, I digress.  If you&#8217;re a waterfowl and dove hunter, by all means  get a retriever of some kind.  The versatiles can retrieve, but if  you&#8217;re hunting a niche, get a companion designed for that niche too.</p>
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<div>by <strong>KY Grouse Hunter</strong></div>
<div>Netheir</div>
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<div>by <strong>Lab Man</strong></div>
<div>I have best of both worlds.  I have a German  Shorthair for my upland hunting.  I have two labrador retrievers for my  waterfowl hunting.  If you have any questions on training retrievers I  would be glad to help you.  I would get a retriever if you do more duck  hunting.  Good luck</div>
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<div>by <strong>Maverick</strong></div>
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<p>If most of your hunting involves retrieving I would stay with your original choice of the lab.</p>
<p>Mav&#8230;&#8230;</p>
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<div>by <strong>mtlee</strong></div>
<div>Where are you located? The cold water issue may be a non-issue depending on where you are. Just a thought.</div>
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<div>by <strong>teej</strong></div>
<div>Im in southern Arizona so the cold water is not  realy an issue. I realy just want to know if the vizsla is a good  trainable dog that will retrieve. Teej</div>
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<div>by <strong>gonehuntin&#8217;</strong></div>
<div>A V is a difficult dog to train if you&#8217;re a  duck hunter and want a handling retriever. When you start forcing to  water and teaching hand signals, if spearated the retievers from the  pointers. Pointing dog&#8217;s just don&#8217;t thrive on repetitive drills like  retrievers do. V;s are soft dogs and many are kind of spooky. V&#8217;s are  nice upland dog&#8217;s. A lab is a GREAT waterfowl dog.</div>
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<div>by <strong>NE Vizsla</strong></div>
<div>If i was to hunt more Waterfowl then Upland  then I would go with a Lab.  I prefer Chessies over Labs but that was  not one of your choices.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Don</strong></div>
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<blockquote>
<div><cite>teej wrote:</cite>Im in  southern Arizona so the cold water is not realy an issue. I realy just  want to know if the vizsla is a good trainable dog that will retrieve.  Teej</div>
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<p>Boy that changes things for me a bit. I&#8217;d still do a lab but I&#8217;d go with a light yellow. Suddenly temp might become a factor.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Vizland&#8217;s</strong></div>
<div>Well I see  some time has past since this was posted and I wonder what choice you  have made&#8230;did you get a lab or vizsla? I had labs for 13 yrs before  havng the vizsla 12 yrs.this month. I do not hunt but love the vizsla  breed. With the labs there was always hair flying around and around in  AZ I think a heavy coat animal would not do well and over heat in the  weather. With a vizsla they are active and most have the natural drive  and very willing to please their Owner where a LAB might be a bit slower  to please. When I called my labs in the feild they would mosey on over  but my vizsla would be there on a dime when called. I would be curious  to know what you choose and how you are making out&#8230;.Amy Lu</div>
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<div>by <strong>ACooper</strong></div>
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<p>I have a v and have had them for going on 13  years, had labs in the past, cold water or no water if your main game is  retrieving get a retrieving breed, will a v do it? Sure will, will they  do it better than a lab? Doubtful.</p>
<p>Why reinvent the wheel?</p>
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<h1>Waterfowl help with lab&#8230;</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=25723">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=25723</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>ctmsnow32</strong></div>
<div>So I have a 7 month old yellow lab. He&#8217;s right  around 70 lbs and loves water, until now (that its cold in the mornings  35 degrees). He loves birds, he&#8217;ll watch them fly in and go down, but  when it comes to going in the water he is really resentful. It&#8217;s almost  like he knows that hes going to have to sit and wait for a while after  he gets the bird and doesn&#8217;t want to be cold and wet. I never thought  that getting him into the water would be a problem considering he would  never get out of the water in the summer and early fall time. Any  suggestions for me on training or similar situations?</div>
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<div>by <strong>prairiefirepointers</strong></div>
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<p>Are you hunting him with a Neoprene dog parka? I  never waterfowl without one. Not only due to the temps, but for chest  protection against submerged foriegn objects that can potentially injure  a dog.</p>
<p>Also, I don&#8217;t know what the living arrangement is for  the pup, but if the dog isn&#8217;t acclimated to the cold, you&#8217;ve got to get  him used to it. If it were me (if you arn&#8217;t already) I would be getting  him used to wearing a dog parka to &#8216;fowl in. Keeps their core warm.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Winchey</strong></div>
<div>Is he gunshy? If not take him out some cold  morning, get him running and toss bumpers in the water when he is  feeling the heat and or jump shoot some ducks. Don&#8217;t make him sit there  freezing, take him for a little walk afterwards so he can warm up and  dry off a bit. Gotta make sure this season is fun for him.</div>
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<div>by <strong>ctmsnow32</strong></div>
<div>Thanks for the replies guys&#8230; Ya I have neo  vest for him, but it doesn&#8217;t seem to do much for him, its really snug  and fits him right but he still shakes quite a bit&#8230; Def not gun shy,  he loves the gun ( associates good things with it) but when I&#8217;ve been  taking him out latley to the normal river spots that he swims, he&#8217;ll go  out of his way to get his bumper and go in the water a little a  possible&#8230; I  guess I just have to keep being consistent and getting  him in the cold weather.. thanks again I appreciate the help</div>
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<div>by <strong>Winchey</strong></div>
<div>I thought it was weird for a lab to be cold at  35 degresse so I started thinking about puppy coats and adult coats, I  did a little research and didn&#8217;t find anything solid but from what I  read a dog should get his adult coat around 10-12 months. If this is  true I would imagine you shouldn&#8217;t have any problems with him getting  cold this time next year.</div>
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<div>by <strong>ctmsnow32</strong></div>
<div>Cool, ya I was really hopping that someone had a  little information like that. That definitely makes me feel better  about it&#8230; thanks again.</div>
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<div>by <strong>birddog1968</strong></div>
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<p>I see this got double posted&#8230;&#8230;here is my answer on your other thread&#8230;..</p>
<p>7 months IMHO is too young to be asking a dog to do what you are asking&#8230;..</p>
<p>Cold water can turn a young dog right off&#8230;.I didn&#8217;t hunt mine in cold cold water until<br />
he was 14 months&#8230;..</p>
<p>Build  his desire for birds awhile and next year you might find nothing will  stop him&#8230;..maybe get him on some field goose hunts or even some  pheasant and let that pup get bird crazy with little pressure&#8230;.Fun is  the name of the game mostly at his age.</p>
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<div>by <strong>ctmsnow32</strong></div>
<div>Ya sorry about that, I realized there was a  training sections after I had already posted it to the general chat area  and thought I might get more replies on the training section&#8230; I am  definitely torn to leave him home cause he gets so excited when I start  getting my gear together, expecially when he sees his vest. I&#8217;m thinking  ill still take him out and just not pressure him to get in the water  just yet&#8230; Thanks for the help again, this site is sick!!</div>
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<div>by <strong>tailcrackin</strong></div>
<div>If he likes birds as you say, use a bird or  two. If he also does really well with these on land then start slow and  work into the water. You want to rty and find a shallow shoulder or  something where the water is shallow enough for its feet to touch, but  the bottom doesnt blow out from under him. You can take a pigeon, and  electrical tape 1 wing to the body, and leave the other wing loose. The  loose one will probably help pull him off the bank. Again, start slow on  your distance, but take and get his atten. and toss the bird up by the  bank, where it is only few steps away from edge&#8230;&#8230;..do that couple  times. Tommorow do same throw, or distance, and then give him another  lil further. What you are doing is working on his confidence. Leave the  birds alive, so that when he gets close, they will usually try an flap  the wing, an most times that will get a dog excited. What you will work  into, is where the shelf or shoulder drops off where the dog isnt able  to walk out anymore, he will have to swim, but keep the bird close  enough, so the dog can get it, then turn back, and get its feet back on  secure ground. As set ups like this work out, it should be kicking in  before long. Just dont be in a hurry to get the big distance, one day at  a time, or maybe session in the morn and then one in afternoon. The fun  will kick in and nerves should calm. Short and simple, and patience.  Thanks Jonesy</div>
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<div>by <strong>birddog1968</strong></div>
<div>Take some towels so you can dry and warm him up between flights of birds&#8230;..</div>
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<div>by <strong>Sprig</strong></div>
<div>some young labs take longer to get used to cold  water than others. he has to figure it out on his own. you may try and  have him watch another dog retrieve in the water over and over again and  help build up his jealousy and that could help prompt him to get in the  water on his own.</div>
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<p><!-- /* proSilver Print Style Sheet                         - 	Author: subBlue  ( http://www.subBlue.com/ ) 	Version: 25 August 2004  	Copyright 2004 phpBB Group                         -*/   /* Lots still TODO here! */  /* General markup styles */ * { 	padding: 0; 	margin: 0; }  body { 	font: 11pt Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	color:#000000; }  a:link		{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:visited	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:active	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; }  img, .noprint, #sub-header, #sub-footer, .navbar, .box1, .divider, .signature { display: none; }  /* Container for the main body */ #wrap { 	margin: 0 2em; }  p { font-size: 85%; } .copyright { font-size: 75%; } .page-number { float:right; width: auto; text-align: right; font-size: 75%; }  h1, h2, h3, h1 a, h2 a, h3 a { 	font-family: "Trebuchet MS",georgia,Verdana,Sans-serif; 	color: #000000; 	background: none; 	text-decoration: none; 	font-weight: bold; }  h1 { font-size: 20pt; } h2 { font-size: 16pt; margin-top: 1em; } h3 { font-size: 14pt; margin-top: 1em; }  .content { 	font-size: 11pt; 	line-height: 14pt; 	margin-bottom: 1em; 	font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	overflow: hidden; }  /* CSS2 Print tip from: http://www.alistapart.com/articles/goingtoprint/ */ .postbody a:link, .postbody a:visited, .postbody a:active, .postbody a:hover { 	text-decoration: underline; 	padding: 0.1em 0.2em; 	margin: -0.1em -0.2em; 	color: #666; 	background: none; 	font-size: 100%; }  html>body .postbody a:link:after, html>body .postbody a:visited:after { 	content: &#8221; (&#8221; attr(href) &#8220;) &#8220;; 	font-size: 90%; 	text-decoration: none; }  hr { 	height: 1px; 	background-color: #999999; 	border-width: 0; }  .author { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	font-size: 75%; 	margin-bottom: 0.6em; }  .date { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	float: right; 	position: relative; 	text-align: right; 	font-size: 75%; }  /* Dont want to print url for names or titles in content area */ .postbody .author a:link, .postbody .author a:visited,  html>body .postbody .author a:link:after,  html>body .postbody .author a:visited:after, .postquote .quote-by a:link, .postquote .quote-by a:visited,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:link:after,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:visited:after, html>body .postbody h1 a:link:after, html>body .postbody h2 a:link:after { 	text-decoration: none; 	content: &#8220;&#8221;; }  /* Poster profile */ .postprofile { display: none; } .grip-show { display:none; }  /* Quote */ .postquote { 	font-size: 85%; 	margin: 1em 18% 1em 4%; 	padding: 0.5em; 	position: relative; 	line-height: 1.5em; 	border: 1px #999999 solid; }  .postquote img { display: none; } .postquote span { display: block; } .postquote span .postquote { font-size: 100%; } .quote-by { font-weight: bold; }  /* Misc page elements */ div.spacer { clear: both; }  /* Accessibility tweaks: Mozilla.org */ .skip_link { display: none; } &#8211;></p>
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<h1>chest protector&#8230;</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=13590">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=13590</a></h2>
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<div>
<div>by <strong>MTO4Life</strong></div>
<div>Can anyone recommend a good chest protector  vest for me?  I&#8217;m concerned my Britt will have issues this fall as there  is a TON of prickly ash where we hunt&#8230;</div>
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<div>by <strong>Buford Boone</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I use one called a &#8220;skid plate&#8221;.  I have been  very happy with it.   My Brit is small, about 32 lbs.  She doesn&#8217;t even  seem to know that she is wearing it.</p>
<p>I first tried the medium  size as she had a severely scratched up belly and I couldn&#8217;t find a  small one locally.  The medium was too large and I ordered a small one.   I gave the medium to my brother for his dog.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m convinced that  the skid plate has saved her belly on many occasions.  It also works  well as a handle if I need to lift her up.  I&#8217;d buy another one in a  second.</p>
<p>Among other places, you can order it from GundogSupply.  See the below link.</p>
<p><!-- m --><a href="http://www.gundogsupply.com/skid-plate-oreange.html">http://www.gundogsupply.com/skid-plate-oreange.html</a><!-- m --></p>
<p>Good luck.</p>
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<div>by <strong>MTO4Life</strong></div>
<div>Thanks B.Boone&#8230; do you find that the  protector stays in place on your Britt when hauling through heavy cover,  or does it want to slide somewhat?  I like the fact that it has an open  top so it is cooler in the early season&#8230;.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Buford Boone</strong></div>
<div>
<p>Heavy brush has not been a problem.  The skid plate has lots of adjustment so getting the proper fit is fairly easy.</p>
<p>If  it is not snugged up, and gets wet, it can stretch out a little and one  of her front paws can get outside the vest.  It is an easy fix, once  noticed.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Mike50</strong></div>
<div>Might be a little late if you placed your order. But LCS Supply has the same one $5.00 cheeper.</div>
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<div>by <strong>gar-dog</strong></div>
<div>I just got the skid plate from LCS Supply a  couple of days ago.  The small fit my brittany nicely, and she didn;t  seem to mind having it on for a few minutes, but we haven&#8217;t used it in  the field yet.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Mike50</strong></div>
<div>Which size did you get. I got the medium. My  dogs weigh 60# and 55#  Went by the chart but there doesn&#8217;t seem to be a  hole lot of material up front on the chest area. And I&#8217;m wondering  about the stapes getting caught on low limbs and brush? I&#8217;ve yet to put  them on and let them run threw the woods.</div>
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<div>by <strong>BirdieBoiler</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I got my GSP a Browning Upland Vest and it seems to work our very well. The link show the vest. Hope this helps1</p>
<p><!-- m --><a href="http://www.flushandpoint.com/productdetails.asp?ID=330">http://www.flushandpoint.com/productdetails.asp?ID=330</a><!-- m --></p>
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<div>by <strong>nsavaglio</strong></div>
<div>
<p><!-- m --><a href="http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0039956660078a&amp;type=product&amp;cmCat=SEARCH_all&amp;returnPage=search-results1.jsp&amp;Ntt=ripstop+dog+vest&amp;Ntk=Products&amp;sort=all&amp;_D%3AhasJS=+&amp;N=0&amp;_D%3Asort=+&amp;Nty=1&amp;hasJS=true&amp;_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form1&amp;_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1">http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ &#8230; ISO-8859-1</a><!-- m --></p>
<p>Works  great on my 42lb Brit.  I got the Medium.  The thing I like about it is  that it is fully adjustable &amp; very easy to put on due to the  plastic &#8220;snap type&#8221; buckles on the back.</p>
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<div>by <strong>ceadmin</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<p><cite>Buford Boone wrote:</cite>I  use one called a &#8220;skid plate&#8221;.  I have been very happy with it.   My  Brit is small, about 32 lbs.  She doesn&#8217;t even seem to know that she is  wearing it.</p>
<p>I first tried the medium size as she had a severely  scratched up belly and I couldn&#8217;t find a small one locally.  The medium  was too large and I ordered a small one.  I gave the medium to my  brother for his dog.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m convinced that the skid plate has saved  her belly on many occasions.  It also works well as a handle if I need  to lift her up.  I&#8217;d buy another one in a second.</p>
<p>Among other places, you can order it from GundogSupply.  See the below link.</p>
<p><!-- m --><a href="http://www.gundogsupply.com/skid-plate-oreange.html">http://www.gundogsupply.com/skid-plate-oreange.html</a><!-- m --></p>
<p>Good luck.</p>
</div>
</blockquote>
<p>This  is what I have and it works great both in the woods, brush or on the  plains. The dog seems to look forward to wearing it and seems to go  through the raspberry patches as well without batting an eye.</p>
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<div>by <strong>djswizz</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I just bought the Cabela&#8217;s Ripstop Chest Protector located here: <!-- m --><a href="http://bit.ly/15HBZi">http://bit.ly/15HBZi</a><!-- m --></p>
<p>Here are pictures of Guinness wearing it:</p>
<p><img src="http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g151/djswizz/IMG_0427.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
<p>and</p>
<p><img src="http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g151/djswizz/IMG_0429.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
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<div>by <strong>GrayDawg</strong></div>
<div>Another vote for the Cabela&#8217;s model !!</div>
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<div>by <strong>wems2371</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I haven&#8217;t tried some of the other vests  mentioned, but I do like the Cabella&#8217;s.  Started the season with a  Cabella&#8217;s on one dog, and a $15 cheapo on the other.  Went and got a 2nd  Cabella&#8217;s.  <img title="Very Happy" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" /> The reflector stuff got tore in a spot on one of them, but then my pup  has no fear of briars or barbed wire, and at least the tear is not on  her!</p>
<p>FWIW mine are both size large, but the pup has to grow into hers a little bit yet.</p>
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<div>by <strong>north country guy</strong></div>
<div>MTO4Life .   I Also Use The Cabella&#8217;s Rip Stop Model On My 34# Britt. Easy To Put On And NEVER EVER Had A Problem With It . <img title="Very Happy" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" /> <img title="Smile" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" /> <img title="Smile" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" /></div>
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<div>by <strong>Bossman27</strong></div>
<div>that cabela&#8217;s model looks like it might raw up their arm pits, any problems with that?</div>
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<div>by <strong>jlp8cornell</strong></div>
<div>I use the Cabela&#8217;s as well and no rubs.</div>
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<div>by <strong>djswizz</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div><cite>Bossman27 wrote:</cite>that cabela&#8217;s model looks like it might raw up their arm pits, any problems with that?</div>
</blockquote>
<p>Used this protector all year last year. In ND, we used it all day, everyday. Minor rubs and minor wear marks on him.</p>
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<div>by <strong>gittrdonebritts</strong></div>
<div>Skid plate +1 there great for protecting the chest and under areas</div>
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<div>by <strong>1vizsla</strong></div>
<div>
<p>Another Cabela&#8217;s Ripstop user&#8230;so far no problems.</p>
<p>Carla</p>
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<p><!-- /* proSilver Print Style Sheet                         - 	Author: subBlue  ( http://www.subBlue.com/ ) 	Version: 25 August 2004  	Copyright 2004 phpBB Group                         -*/   /* Lots still TODO here! */  /* General markup styles */ * { 	padding: 0; 	margin: 0; }  body { 	font: 11pt Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	color:#000000; }  a:link		{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:visited	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:active	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; }  img, .noprint, #sub-header, #sub-footer, .navbar, .box1, .divider, .signature { display: none; }  /* Container for the main body */ #wrap { 	margin: 0 2em; }  p { font-size: 85%; } .copyright { font-size: 75%; } .page-number { float:right; width: auto; text-align: right; font-size: 75%; }  h1, h2, h3, h1 a, h2 a, h3 a { 	font-family: "Trebuchet MS",georgia,Verdana,Sans-serif; 	color: #000000; 	background: none; 	text-decoration: none; 	font-weight: bold; }  h1 { font-size: 20pt; } h2 { font-size: 16pt; margin-top: 1em; } h3 { font-size: 14pt; margin-top: 1em; }  .content { 	font-size: 11pt; 	line-height: 14pt; 	margin-bottom: 1em; 	font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	overflow: hidden; }  /* CSS2 Print tip from: http://www.alistapart.com/articles/goingtoprint/ */ .postbody a:link, .postbody a:visited, .postbody a:active, .postbody a:hover { 	text-decoration: underline; 	padding: 0.1em 0.2em; 	margin: -0.1em -0.2em; 	color: #666; 	background: none; 	font-size: 100%; }  html>body .postbody a:link:after, html>body .postbody a:visited:after { 	content: &#8221; (&#8221; attr(href) &#8220;) &#8220;; 	font-size: 90%; 	text-decoration: none; }  hr { 	height: 1px; 	background-color: #999999; 	border-width: 0; }  .author { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	font-size: 75%; 	margin-bottom: 0.6em; }  .date { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	float: right; 	position: relative; 	text-align: right; 	font-size: 75%; }  /* Dont want to print url for names or titles in content area */ .postbody .author a:link, .postbody .author a:visited,  html>body .postbody .author a:link:after,  html>body .postbody .author a:visited:after, .postquote .quote-by a:link, .postquote .quote-by a:visited,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:link:after,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:visited:after, html>body .postbody h1 a:link:after, html>body .postbody h2 a:link:after { 	text-decoration: none; 	content: &#8220;&#8221;; }  /* Poster profile */ .postprofile { display: none; } .grip-show { display:none; }  /* Quote */ .postquote { 	font-size: 85%; 	margin: 1em 18% 1em 4%; 	padding: 0.5em; 	position: relative; 	line-height: 1.5em; 	border: 1px #999999 solid; }  .postquote img { display: none; } .postquote span { display: block; } .postquote span .postquote { font-size: 100%; } .quote-by { font-weight: bold; }  /* Misc page elements */ div.spacer { clear: both; }  /* Accessibility tweaks: Mozilla.org */ .skip_link { display: none; } &#8211;></p>
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<h1>Ugly Dog Hunting Co.</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=14905">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=14905</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>EddieF</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I&#8217;m not sure if this is appropriate here, but I  just got a little order from Ugly Dog, my first with them. I got, among  other things, a 16&#8243; traffic lead for $9 and a British Style slip lead  for $14. Both are incredibly good quality, let alone for the price.  Really nice stuff.</p>
<p>Just thought I&#8217;d share. It arrived quickly too.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Rick Hall</strong></div>
<div>The Headwaters strap vest they carry is the best of its genre I&#8217;ve seen.</div>
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<div>by <strong>edondero</strong></div>
<div>I ordered some apparel, I was really happy with it! Terrific sales.</div>
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<div>by <strong>stonegripper</strong></div>
<div>Very good products, prices and service.  Seems they don&#8217;t advertise like they should.  Good company.</div>
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<div>by <strong>bjdette21</strong></div>
<div>
<blockquote>
<div><cite>edondero wrote:</cite>I ordered some apparel, I was really happy with it! Terrific sales.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>Wow,  that&#8217;s good. It is one of their terrific sales ever. I bought some ugly  dog apparel too and they are great. Also, they have other good products  with good price. Their sales service is also remarkable.</p>
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<div>by <strong>justin1</strong></div>
<div>are you fun of hunting dogs here?</div>
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<div>by <strong>mcclinj</strong></div>
<div>Just ordered some collars and new puppy stuff  from them. They took the time and answered all my questions thoroughly,  I&#8217;d definitely order from them again.</div>
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<p><!-- /* proSilver Print Style Sheet                         - 	Author: subBlue  ( http://www.subBlue.com/ ) 	Version: 25 August 2004  	Copyright 2004 phpBB Group                         -*/   /* Lots still TODO here! */  /* General markup styles */ * { 	padding: 0; 	margin: 0; }  body { 	font: 11pt Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	color:#000000; }  a:link		{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:visited	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:active	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; }  img, .noprint, #sub-header, #sub-footer, .navbar, .box1, .divider, .signature { display: none; }  /* Container for the main body */ #wrap { 	margin: 0 2em; }  p { font-size: 85%; } .copyright { font-size: 75%; } .page-number { float:right; width: auto; text-align: right; font-size: 75%; }  h1, h2, h3, h1 a, h2 a, h3 a { 	font-family: "Trebuchet MS",georgia,Verdana,Sans-serif; 	color: #000000; 	background: none; 	text-decoration: none; 	font-weight: bold; }  h1 { font-size: 20pt; } h2 { font-size: 16pt; margin-top: 1em; } h3 { font-size: 14pt; margin-top: 1em; }  .content { 	font-size: 11pt; 	line-height: 14pt; 	margin-bottom: 1em; 	font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	overflow: hidden; }  /* CSS2 Print tip from: http://www.alistapart.com/articles/goingtoprint/ */ .postbody a:link, .postbody a:visited, .postbody a:active, .postbody a:hover { 	text-decoration: underline; 	padding: 0.1em 0.2em; 	margin: -0.1em -0.2em; 	color: #666; 	background: none; 	font-size: 100%; }  html>body .postbody a:link:after, html>body .postbody a:visited:after { 	content: &#8221; (&#8221; attr(href) &#8220;) &#8220;; 	font-size: 90%; 	text-decoration: none; }  hr { 	height: 1px; 	background-color: #999999; 	border-width: 0; }  .author { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	font-size: 75%; 	margin-bottom: 0.6em; }  .date { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	float: right; 	position: relative; 	text-align: right; 	font-size: 75%; }  /* Dont want to print url for names or titles in content area */ .postbody .author a:link, .postbody .author a:visited,  html>body .postbody .author a:link:after,  html>body .postbody .author a:visited:after, .postquote .quote-by a:link, .postquote .quote-by a:visited,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:link:after,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:visited:after, html>body .postbody h1 a:link:after, html>body .postbody h2 a:link:after { 	text-decoration: none; 	content: &#8220;&#8221;; }  /* Poster profile */ .postprofile { display: none; } .grip-show { display:none; }  /* Quote */ .postquote { 	font-size: 85%; 	margin: 1em 18% 1em 4%; 	padding: 0.5em; 	position: relative; 	line-height: 1.5em; 	border: 1px #999999 solid; }  .postquote img { display: none; } .postquote span { display: block; } .postquote span .postquote { font-size: 100%; } .quote-by { font-weight: bold; }  /* Misc page elements */ div.spacer { clear: both; }  /* Accessibility tweaks: Mozilla.org */ .skip_link { display: none; } &#8211;></p>
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<div id="page-header">
<h1>Cabelas Ultimate Field Dog System Vest</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=3891">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=3891</a></h2>
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<div id="page-body">
<div>
<div>by <strong>Ryan</strong></div>
<div>I am going to buy one of these vests. Anyone  have or use one. I love the transmitter holder feature it has and the  hydration pack.</div>
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<div>
<div>by <strong>ezzy333</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I&#8217;ve found that hydration packs are a pain in  the rear.  Carry a couple of bottles in your vest pocket if you need to.   Normally in the north part of the country it is cool by the time  hunting season gets here and a lot of water normally isn&#8217;t needed.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
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<div>
<div>by <strong>Ryan</strong></div>
<div>Why do you find hydration packs a pain in the rear? I have a buddy that put on in his hunting coat and he loves his.</div>
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<hr />
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<div>by <strong>Ayres</strong></div>
<div>A water bottle in the pocket is easier to slip  in and out, easier to refill, and easier to clean (throw it away, get a  new bottle of water).  Hydration packs have always just seemed more like  a gimmick than anything really useful to me.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Coach529</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I love the idea of the hydration pack. The best  way to keep them clean is to rinse them out right after use and slip  them in the freezer, mold cannot grow there!!</p>
<p>I have been looking at straps vests and that is one of my options.</p>
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<p><!-- /* proSilver Print Style Sheet                         - 	Author: subBlue  ( http://www.subBlue.com/ ) 	Version: 25 August 2004  	Copyright 2004 phpBB Group                         -*/   /* Lots still TODO here! */  /* General markup styles */ * { 	padding: 0; 	margin: 0; }  body { 	font: 11pt Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	color:#000000; }  a:link		{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:visited	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:active	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; }  img, .noprint, #sub-header, #sub-footer, .navbar, .box1, .divider, .signature { display: none; }  /* Container for the main body */ #wrap { 	margin: 0 2em; }  p { font-size: 85%; } .copyright { font-size: 75%; } .page-number { float:right; width: auto; text-align: right; font-size: 75%; }  h1, h2, h3, h1 a, h2 a, h3 a { 	font-family: "Trebuchet MS",georgia,Verdana,Sans-serif; 	color: #000000; 	background: none; 	text-decoration: none; 	font-weight: bold; }  h1 { font-size: 20pt; } h2 { font-size: 16pt; margin-top: 1em; } h3 { font-size: 14pt; margin-top: 1em; }  .content { 	font-size: 11pt; 	line-height: 14pt; 	margin-bottom: 1em; 	font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	overflow: hidden; }  /* CSS2 Print tip from: http://www.alistapart.com/articles/goingtoprint/ */ .postbody a:link, .postbody a:visited, .postbody a:active, .postbody a:hover { 	text-decoration: underline; 	padding: 0.1em 0.2em; 	margin: -0.1em -0.2em; 	color: #666; 	background: none; 	font-size: 100%; }  html>body .postbody a:link:after, html>body .postbody a:visited:after { 	content: &#8221; (&#8221; attr(href) &#8220;) &#8220;; 	font-size: 90%; 	text-decoration: none; }  hr { 	height: 1px; 	background-color: #999999; 	border-width: 0; }  .author { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	font-size: 75%; 	margin-bottom: 0.6em; }  .date { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	float: right; 	position: relative; 	text-align: right; 	font-size: 75%; }  /* Dont want to print url for names or titles in content area */ .postbody .author a:link, .postbody .author a:visited,  html>body .postbody .author a:link:after,  html>body .postbody .author a:visited:after, .postquote .quote-by a:link, .postquote .quote-by a:visited,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:link:after,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:visited:after, html>body .postbody h1 a:link:after, html>body .postbody h2 a:link:after { 	text-decoration: none; 	content: &#8220;&#8221;; }  /* Poster profile */ .postprofile { display: none; } .grip-show { display:none; }  /* Quote */ .postquote { 	font-size: 85%; 	margin: 1em 18% 1em 4%; 	padding: 0.5em; 	position: relative; 	line-height: 1.5em; 	border: 1px #999999 solid; }  .postquote img { display: none; } .postquote span { display: block; } .postquote span .postquote { font-size: 100%; } .quote-by { font-weight: bold; }  /* Misc page elements */ div.spacer { clear: both; }  /* Accessibility tweaks: Mozilla.org */ .skip_link { display: none; } &#8211;></p>
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<h1>Skid Plate?</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=8746">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=8746</a></h2>
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<div id="page-body">
<div>
<div>by <strong>Highbrass</strong></div>
<div>Can anyone offer a review or recommend a skid plate/chest protector?</div>
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<hr />
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<div>by <strong>AT2</strong></div>
<div>I was considering one for my dog as well. I was  at a trial the other day and a guys dog had a nice long deep scratch on  her belly. She didn&#8217;t seem to even notice it but we all did. My dog  still barely has any hair on her belly.<br />
So yeah if someone could recommend a brand or something that would be nice.</div>
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<div>by <strong>AT2</strong></div>
<div>guess not.<br />
I intend to get Piper one so I will take this for action. <img title="Laughing" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" /></div>
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<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>WiskeyJaR</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I wonder if one of those nylon blaze vests I  see some dogs wearing be strong enough?  I would think it would need to  be flexable but tough, maybe something made outa Cordura?</p>
<p>Maybe someting along this?&#8230;.<br />
<!-- m --><a href="http://www.lonewolfdogwear.com/#camo">http://www.lonewolfdogwear.com/#camo</a><!-- m --></p>
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<div>by <strong>Danro</strong></div>
<div>
<p><!-- m --><a href="http://www.gundogsonline.com/dog-vest/dog-chest-protector.html">http://www.gundogsonline.com/dog-vest/d &#8230; ector.html</a><!-- m --></p>
<p>I use this vest. It&#8217;s got good orange coverage so it&#8217;s good for a  safety vest. I didn&#8217;t know that it would be so big for my Brit, so I  ended up having to cut a section off so it&#8217;s only two straps, not three.  But other than that it&#8217;s been great.</p>
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<div>
<div>by <strong>nitrex</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I have several I bought at my local hunting  supply store.  They are called &#8220;skid plates.&#8221;  They are very durable and  have clips instead of the velcro.  The velcro protectors seem to always  fill up with weeds and grass and never fit my dogs.  The Skid Plates  have a ton of adjustments along with many sizes.  Do a search for &#8220;skid  plate dogs&#8221; on google and you should find them.  Also, these do not have  sleeves on the front legs so your dog can still move.  They have really  been nice on my females, especially soon after weaning.</p>
<p>Nitrex</p>
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<div>
<div>by <strong>Highbrass</strong></div>
<div>Thanks for the replies. I picked up a &#8220;skid-plate&#8221;. We&#8217;ll see how it works out this weekend.</div>
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<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>nj gsp</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I got one for my dog at Cabela&#8217;s, it clips on  and comes in three sizes. My GSP is on the small side for the medium,  she&#8217;s 50 lbs. It worked pretty well.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ll have to see if I can find the catalog number, it was the Cabela&#8217;s brand one that cost $30.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Weege3</strong></div>
<div>My friend uses one of the cabelas skid plates  on is britt.  He loves it and protects her belly really well.  I tried  it on my gsp but it rubbed in his problem areas making them worse.  So I  don&#8217;t use anything now he seems allright.</div>
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<p><!-- /* proSilver Print Style Sheet                         - 	Author: subBlue  ( http://www.subBlue.com/ ) 	Version: 25 August 2004  	Copyright 2004 phpBB Group                         -*/   /* Lots still TODO here! */  /* General markup styles */ * { 	padding: 0; 	margin: 0; }  body { 	font: 11pt Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	color:#000000; }  a:link		{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:visited	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:active	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; }  img, .noprint, #sub-header, #sub-footer, .navbar, .box1, .divider, .signature { display: none; }  /* Container for the main body */ #wrap { 	margin: 0 2em; }  p { font-size: 85%; } .copyright { font-size: 75%; } .page-number { float:right; width: auto; text-align: right; font-size: 75%; }  h1, h2, h3, h1 a, h2 a, h3 a { 	font-family: "Trebuchet MS",georgia,Verdana,Sans-serif; 	color: #000000; 	background: none; 	text-decoration: none; 	font-weight: bold; }  h1 { font-size: 20pt; } h2 { font-size: 16pt; margin-top: 1em; } h3 { font-size: 14pt; margin-top: 1em; }  .content { 	font-size: 11pt; 	line-height: 14pt; 	margin-bottom: 1em; 	font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	overflow: hidden; }  /* CSS2 Print tip from: http://www.alistapart.com/articles/goingtoprint/ */ .postbody a:link, .postbody a:visited, .postbody a:active, .postbody a:hover { 	text-decoration: underline; 	padding: 0.1em 0.2em; 	margin: -0.1em -0.2em; 	color: #666; 	background: none; 	font-size: 100%; }  html>body .postbody a:link:after, html>body .postbody a:visited:after { 	content: &#8221; (&#8221; attr(href) &#8220;) &#8220;; 	font-size: 90%; 	text-decoration: none; }  hr { 	height: 1px; 	background-color: #999999; 	border-width: 0; }  .author { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	font-size: 75%; 	margin-bottom: 0.6em; }  .date { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	float: right; 	position: relative; 	text-align: right; 	font-size: 75%; }  /* Dont want to print url for names or titles in content area */ .postbody .author a:link, .postbody .author a:visited,  html>body .postbody .author a:link:after,  html>body .postbody .author a:visited:after, .postquote .quote-by a:link, .postquote .quote-by a:visited,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:link:after,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:visited:after, html>body .postbody h1 a:link:after, html>body .postbody h2 a:link:after { 	text-decoration: none; 	content: &#8220;&#8221;; }  /* Poster profile */ .postprofile { display: none; } .grip-show { display:none; }  /* Quote */ .postquote { 	font-size: 85%; 	margin: 1em 18% 1em 4%; 	padding: 0.5em; 	position: relative; 	line-height: 1.5em; 	border: 1px #999999 solid; }  .postquote img { display: none; } .postquote span { display: block; } .postquote span .postquote { font-size: 100%; } .quote-by { font-weight: bold; }  /* Misc page elements */ div.spacer { clear: both; }  /* Accessibility tweaks: Mozilla.org */ .skip_link { display: none; } &#8211;></p>
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<h1>Raw Chest Problem</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=88&amp;t=15213">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=88&amp;t=15213</a></h2>
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<div>
<div>by <strong>BirdieBoiler</strong></div>
<div>I&#8217;m sure you all have run into the same issues  with your dogs that I am now with my GSP.  She&#8217;s 11 months and I&#8217;ve  started to get her out more heavily (5 days a week for an hour or so).   Everytime we are done in the field her chest, belly, and inner hind legs  are pink and red and pretty much raw.  It doesn&#8217;t slow her down in the  field or keep her from busting brush and she doesn&#8217;t seem in pain or  bugged by it once she gets back home. I&#8217;m just concerned with any issues  with it if its an ongoing problem for the next few months as far as her  scabbing, bleeding, or being in pain. Anyone put vests or any similar  product on their dogs? Any sort of meds or anything to apply after they  get home? Thanks guy!</div>
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<div>by <strong>oakcreek</strong></div>
<div>They make an upland vest that has a good chest protector on the front</div>
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<div>by <strong>rockllews</strong></div>
<div>
<p>If she&#8217;s really prone to rubbing, you might try  a protective vest which will decrease the chest/some belly rubs, but  the armpits will still be raw.  If you have burrs, you&#8217;ll also want to  make sure they do not get caught too much inside of the vest.  Vest  choice, see the visibility thread&#8230; also, I don&#8217;t recommend the &#8220;Tummy  Saver,&#8221;  as it didn&#8217;t fit right or offer much coverage/protection in our  experience.</p>
<p>For minor lacerations/bleeding, flushing the area  with water, then putting Bag Balm or Novalson works fine.  If she&#8217;s not  showing any major soreness or infections, you should be okay.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Wattiez</strong></div>
<div>I would apply Aloe vera gelly to sooth and  propolis cream to detear any infection. ( forever LIVING Products) are  the best quality. They are all natural ingredients. Can be used for both  animal &amp; human which i find exceptionally useful, only one first  aid kit required.</div>
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<p><!-- /* proSilver Print Style Sheet                         - 	Author: subBlue  ( http://www.subBlue.com/ ) 	Version: 25 August 2004  	Copyright 2004 phpBB Group                         -*/   /* Lots still TODO here! */  /* General markup styles */ * { 	padding: 0; 	margin: 0; }  body { 	font: 11pt Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	color:#000000; }  a:link		{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:visited	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:active	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; }  img, .noprint, #sub-header, #sub-footer, .navbar, .box1, .divider, .signature { display: none; }  /* Container for the main body */ #wrap { 	margin: 0 2em; }  p { font-size: 85%; } .copyright { font-size: 75%; } .page-number { float:right; width: auto; text-align: right; font-size: 75%; }  h1, h2, h3, h1 a, h2 a, h3 a { 	font-family: "Trebuchet MS",georgia,Verdana,Sans-serif; 	color: #000000; 	background: none; 	text-decoration: none; 	font-weight: bold; }  h1 { font-size: 20pt; } h2 { font-size: 16pt; margin-top: 1em; } h3 { font-size: 14pt; margin-top: 1em; }  .content { 	font-size: 11pt; 	line-height: 14pt; 	margin-bottom: 1em; 	font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	overflow: hidden; }  /* CSS2 Print tip from: http://www.alistapart.com/articles/goingtoprint/ */ .postbody a:link, .postbody a:visited, .postbody a:active, .postbody a:hover { 	text-decoration: underline; 	padding: 0.1em 0.2em; 	margin: -0.1em -0.2em; 	color: #666; 	background: none; 	font-size: 100%; }  html>body .postbody a:link:after, html>body .postbody a:visited:after { 	content: &#8221; (&#8221; attr(href) &#8220;) &#8220;; 	font-size: 90%; 	text-decoration: none; }  hr { 	height: 1px; 	background-color: #999999; 	border-width: 0; }  .author { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	font-size: 75%; 	margin-bottom: 0.6em; }  .date { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	float: right; 	position: relative; 	text-align: right; 	font-size: 75%; }  /* Dont want to print url for names or titles in content area */ .postbody .author a:link, .postbody .author a:visited,  html>body .postbody .author a:link:after,  html>body .postbody .author a:visited:after, .postquote .quote-by a:link, .postquote .quote-by a:visited,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:link:after,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:visited:after, html>body .postbody h1 a:link:after, html>body .postbody h2 a:link:after { 	text-decoration: none; 	content: &#8220;&#8221;; }  /* Poster profile */ .postprofile { display: none; } .grip-show { display:none; }  /* Quote */ .postquote { 	font-size: 85%; 	margin: 1em 18% 1em 4%; 	padding: 0.5em; 	position: relative; 	line-height: 1.5em; 	border: 1px #999999 solid; }  .postquote img { display: none; } .postquote span { display: block; } .postquote span .postquote { font-size: 100%; } .quote-by { font-weight: bold; }  /* Misc page elements */ div.spacer { clear: both; }  /* Accessibility tweaks: Mozilla.org */ .skip_link { display: none; } &#8211;></p>
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<h1>Vest</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=25995">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=25995</a></h2>
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<div>
<div>by <strong>Moosie</strong></div>
<div>
<p>Hi everybody,</p>
<p>I&#8217;m looking to get a vest  for my Shorthair.  He&#8217;s exposed to cold temperatures in the winter -10  to -15 degrees celsius.  I saw this video on youtube of a shorthair  wearing a vest here.  <!-- m --><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShpmBg-MC28">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShpmBg-MC28</a><!-- m --></p>
<p>Does anybody know what type of vest this is or what would be the best vest for this type of weather.</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
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<div>by <strong>Nebraska</strong></div>
<div>My first GSP had a very thin coat so I got a  fleece vest for her to wear in between fields.  It wouldn&#8217;t work for  hunting but sure worked great in between and even at home when it was  REALLY cold out.</div>
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<div>by <strong>wems2371</strong></div>
<div>
<p>Pretty positive that I recognize the dog in the  video, as well as the names, as being owned by someone on the  shorthairs forum.  You might send the owner an email and see if she  knows the brand or maybe it was a catalog purchase.  I haven&#8217;t seen  anything like that otherwise, but it looks much nicer than trying to  wrestle a sweater on.</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s a thread started by her&#8211;that you could PM her off of.<br />
<!-- m --><a href="http://www.shorthairs.net/GSPForum/tabid/220/forumid/2/postid/69300/view/topic/Default.aspx">http://www.shorthairs.net/GSPForum/tabi &#8230; fault.aspx</a><!-- m --></p>
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<p><!-- /* proSilver Print Style Sheet                         - 	Author: subBlue  ( http://www.subBlue.com/ ) 	Version: 25 August 2004  	Copyright 2004 phpBB Group                         -*/   /* Lots still TODO here! */  /* General markup styles */ * { 	padding: 0; 	margin: 0; }  body { 	font: 11pt Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	color:#000000; }  a:link		{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:visited	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:active	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; }  img, .noprint, #sub-header, #sub-footer, .navbar, .box1, .divider, .signature { display: none; }  /* Container for the main body */ #wrap { 	margin: 0 2em; }  p { font-size: 85%; } .copyright { font-size: 75%; } .page-number { float:right; width: auto; text-align: right; font-size: 75%; }  h1, h2, h3, h1 a, h2 a, h3 a { 	font-family: "Trebuchet MS",georgia,Verdana,Sans-serif; 	color: #000000; 	background: none; 	text-decoration: none; 	font-weight: bold; }  h1 { font-size: 20pt; } h2 { font-size: 16pt; margin-top: 1em; } h3 { font-size: 14pt; margin-top: 1em; }  .content { 	font-size: 11pt; 	line-height: 14pt; 	margin-bottom: 1em; 	font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	overflow: hidden; }  /* CSS2 Print tip from: http://www.alistapart.com/articles/goingtoprint/ */ .postbody a:link, .postbody a:visited, .postbody a:active, .postbody a:hover { 	text-decoration: underline; 	padding: 0.1em 0.2em; 	margin: -0.1em -0.2em; 	color: #666; 	background: none; 	font-size: 100%; }  html>body .postbody a:link:after, html>body .postbody a:visited:after { 	content: &#8221; (&#8221; attr(href) &#8220;) &#8220;; 	font-size: 90%; 	text-decoration: none; }  hr { 	height: 1px; 	background-color: #999999; 	border-width: 0; }  .author { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	font-size: 75%; 	margin-bottom: 0.6em; }  .date { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	float: right; 	position: relative; 	text-align: right; 	font-size: 75%; }  /* Dont want to print url for names or titles in content area */ .postbody .author a:link, .postbody .author a:visited,  html>body .postbody .author a:link:after,  html>body .postbody .author a:visited:after, .postquote .quote-by a:link, .postquote .quote-by a:visited,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:link:after,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:visited:after, html>body .postbody h1 a:link:after, html>body .postbody h2 a:link:after { 	text-decoration: none; 	content: &#8220;&#8221;; }  /* Poster profile */ .postprofile { display: none; } .grip-show { display:none; }  /* Quote */ .postquote { 	font-size: 85%; 	margin: 1em 18% 1em 4%; 	padding: 0.5em; 	position: relative; 	line-height: 1.5em; 	border: 1px #999999 solid; }  .postquote img { display: none; } .postquote span { display: block; } .postquote span .postquote { font-size: 100%; } .quote-by { font-weight: bold; }  /* Misc page elements */ div.spacer { clear: both; }  /* Accessibility tweaks: Mozilla.org */ .skip_link { display: none; } &#8211;></p>
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<h1>Hypoglycemia ?</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=88&amp;t=26031">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=88&amp;t=26031</a></h2>
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<div id="page-body">
<div>
<div>by <strong>huskerhunter</strong></div>
<div>
<p>I have a GSP that is 4 1/2 years old now.  The  last year and this year after hunting for a few hours he starts  whimpering and just walking by me instead of being out in front of me  hunting.  After he started doing this we would just stop and go back to  the truck.  Well this weekend on the way back to the truck he had a  seizure.  After lying there for a few minutes he got up and was able to  walk the rest of the way to the truck.  After talking to my vet last  year and again after this he is pretty sure it is hunting dog  hypoglycemia.  My questions are:</p>
<p>First, do you recommend any food such as honey or a specific energy bar to give him while hunting to keep this from happening?</p>
<p>Second,  I feed him regular adult science diet, should I switch to science diet  active or purina pro plan, something that is made more for hard hunting  dogs?</p>
<p>Hopefully I can find a way to prevent this from happening,  he loves to hunt and is a great hunting dog, don&#8217;t want to have to stop  hunting him but I will if it is a danger to him.</p>
<p>Thanks for any advice that you can give me.</p>
<p>Nate</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr />
<div>
<div>by <strong>mcbosco</strong></div>
<div>
<p>If your Vet does not think more testing is  required the easy thing is upgrade his feed to a quality 30/20.  Keeping  honey or sugar around is sensible for first aid but trying to avoid  this makes the most.</p>
<p>Regular Science Diet is not only expensive but IMO a pretty low quality food for this application.</p>
<p>I  would go with a 30/20 that you can get without much fuss. One without  corn gluten would be my pick, something high in meat protein.</p>
<p>I really like the Pro Pac 30/20 I got for free (see my thread)</p>
<p>Doesn&#8217;t hurt to try.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Brittguy</strong></div>
<div>That happened to a friend&#8217;s dog while we were  on an out of state trip. The local vet told us to have honey available.  It worked great and my friend still carries a small squeeze bottle of  honey in his coat.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Coveyrise64</strong></div>
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<blockquote>
<div>
<p><cite>huskerhunter wrote:</cite>I  have a GSP that is 4 1/2 years old now.  The last year and this year  after hunting for a few hours he starts whimpering and just walking by  me instead of being out in front of me hunting.  After he started doing  this we would just stop and go back to the truck.  Well this weekend on  the way back to the truck he had a seizure.  After lying there for a few  minutes he got up and was able to walk the rest of the way to the  truck.  After talking to my vet last year and again after this he is  pretty sure it is hunting dog hypoglycemia.  My questions are:</p>
<p>First, do you recommend any food such as honey or a specific energy bar to give him while hunting to keep this from happening?</p>
<p>Second,  I feed him regular adult science diet, should I switch to science diet  active or purina pro plan, something that is made more for hard hunting  dogs?</p>
<p>Hopefully I can find a way to prevent this from happening,  he loves to hunt and is a great hunting dog, don&#8217;t want to have to stop  hunting him but I will if it is a danger to him.</p>
<p>Thanks for any advice that you can give me.</p>
<p>Nate</p>
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<p>Never  have thought to much of Science Diet for a working dog, might be  alright for a specialty diet. I&#8217;d switch to PPP or something with  similar Protein/Fat ratio. I kept a zip lock bag of dry dog food in my  hunting vest and gave a small amount to my dog every hour or so. Instead  of the honey I carried a tube of NutraCal, not as messy and has some  nutritional value as well. Also, I carried a short leash in my game bag,  after a seizure dogs can be confused and want to run away.</p>
<p>Coveyrise64</p>
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<div>by <strong>ezzy333</strong></div>
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<blockquote>
<div><cite>Brittguy wrote:</cite>That  happened to a friend&#8217;s dog while we were on an out of state trip. The  local vet told us to have honey available. It worked great and my friend  still carries a small squeeze bottle of honey in his coat.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>This makes a whole lot of sense if you have a dog that needs it.   Doesn&#8217;t have to be honey but anything sweet will work almost  immediately.  Other things like dog food will help but takes some time.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
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<div>by <strong>huskerhunter</strong></div>
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<p>Ok, so I am going to switch his food to  something with more protein and fat probably the purina pro plan.  Also,  my vet said to feed him some peanut butter and jelly sandwiches every  so often when we are hunting and that should take care of it also.</p>
<p>Thanks for the help.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Carl Porter</strong></div>
<div>I have used many differant dog foods over the  years at my kennel and I like Purina Pro Plan &#8220;Performance&#8221; the best.  Especially in hunting season. Its 30/20 and dogs keep weight on, and  have firm stool.<br />
I believe that dogs are like people. Once they get  overheated or heat exhausted they are more likely to get it easier each  time. I keep a bottle of Karo Syrup in my trailer at all times. Mix it  in a small squirt bottle with about a teaspoon of syrup and half a  bottle of water mixed for emergencies. i give my dogs a teaspoon or so  the night before a trial or hunt to help build up their sugar level for  the coming day. As soon as you see the dog getting tired give it a shot  of this mixture. Let him rest and take it easy. Maybe better to end the  day after that. I look for the dogs mouth to get white (cottonmouth) and  as soon as I see that I give him water. When giving water after  overheating Never give it cold and putting it on their belly, feet and  underarms will help to cool them down. This will be something to watch  for from now on. Be careful.<br />
Carl</div>
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<div>by <strong>big steve46</strong></div>
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<p>Science Diet is a mediocre feed at best.   There&#8217;s nothing wrong with high quality corn and wheat, but to have them  as the first two ingredients is unacceptable.  I just like a good meat  meal source as the first ingredient.</p>
<p>There are many good feeds,  but I changed from Diamond to Loyall over a year ago.  They have  Performance, Active Adult, and Professional which are all great for  working dogs. I feed AA which is efficiently used and cost effective.   It&#8217;s less expensive than PPP, and possibly superior.</p>
<p>Feeding a better feed will probably stop the hypoglycemia problem.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Carl Porter</strong></div>
<div>I like the Loyall feed too. Purina is to  expensive but if you only have one or two dogs usually you can afford  it. We pay over $40 for the ppp and about 30-35 for the Loyall here in  CA. I dont like any  dog food with corn. I do have to use it but make  sure it is way down on the list. Lamb and Rice or Chicken and Rice works  well here at my kennel.<br />
Carl</div>
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<div>by <strong>GL</strong></div>
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<p>Having suffered with Hypoglycemia my entire  adult life I have to disagree with the assumption that sugar is the fix.  About the very last thing I want when I start getting shaky is pure  sugar.</p>
<p>What I need when I begin to feel the effects is protein.  You should keep cheese with you when you hunt the dog. Just a couple  slices will do the trick Peanuts are a great source if your dog likes  them and a bite sized Pay Day is easy to have in your pocket, protein  with sugar. I always have carnation instant breakfast handy and the  drinks made by Ensure are also excellent sources for a quick fix I bet  your dog would lap right up.</p>
<p>The key to human HypoG is to eat  numerous small meals throughout the day and to avoid sugar because our  bodies don&#8217;t do the same as others with it. I know if I eat cereal with  sugar in the morning I will be in trouble fairly soon after wards.  Pancakes with syrup are about as useless as I can get for a breakfast  meal. Keep in mind that my body does different things with sugar than  others.</p>
<p>My best description of what HypoG is like would be this.  When driving your car and the light comes on telling you the tank is  near empty you usually have 30-50 miles before it runs out. When my body  feels the tank is nearing empty it means STOP NOW and eat something  with good protein quick. If your dog really does have HypoG, the day he  seized was a lousy day for him because it leaves him in a stupor for the  rest of the day and it is difficult to just snap back.</p>
<p>I have to snack all day long but candy and sugar are off the list.</p>
<p>Do  some reading about the diets for humans with this problem and see if  you can really figure out if the dog has it. The blood test would be  very difficult on a dog but for humans it is called a 5 hour Glocose  tolerance test and requires a blood draw followed by a drink of pure  sugar mixture and then numerous subsequent draws to show what your body  is doing with the sugar.</p>
<p>Gary</p>
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<div>by <strong>Carl Porter</strong></div>
<div>GL, are you saying that sugar isn&#8217;t the fix for  you or the dog? I am assuming you mean you. It sounds that your saying  protein and sugar is the answer for a dog experiencing HG. Would love to  hear from the vet guy here. Just to verify. If thats the case, i too  will keep some high protein/sugar something around. Cheese would be real  easy to get them to eat.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Coveyrise64</strong></div>
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<blockquote>
<div><cite>Coveyrise64 wrote:</cite>I  kept a zip lock bag of dry dog food in my hunting vest and gave a small  amount to my dog every hour or so. Instead of the honey I carried a  tube of NutraCal (sp), not as messy and has some nutritional value as  well. Also, I carried a short leash in my game bag, after a seizure,  dogs can be confused and want to run away.</div>
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<p>Above is the routine I followed when dealing with a hypoglycemic pointer.</p>
<p>Coveyrise64</p>
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<div>by <strong>bossman</strong></div>
<div>All great suggestions. Have never been crazy  about SD dog food. In addition to feeding a different feed and carrying  honey, etc., I also carry some &#8220;Tri Nutrition&#8221; bars and/or &#8220;Redpaw  Recovery Treats&#8221; that I give during the day. Don&#8217;t know if they help,  but have never had the problem. Good luck</div>
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<div>by <strong>GL</strong></div>
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<blockquote>
<div><cite>Carl Porter wrote:</cite>GL,  are you saying that sugar isn&#8217;t the fix for you or the dog? I am  assuming you mean you. It sounds that your saying protein and sugar is  the answer for a dog experiencing HG. Would love to hear from the vet  guy here. Just to verify. If thats the case, i too will keep some high  protein/sugar something around. Cheese would be real easy to get them to  eat.</div>
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<p>I can&#8217;t speak for the dog since we don&#8217;t  honestly know if HG is the issue or not. With humans I am quite sure  Protein and not sugar is the best remedy. Sugar may provide a quick jolt  but with nothing of substance to back it up it will be a short burst at  best. I personally like the Pay Day bars that provide both the sugar  for the quick fix as well as the protein for the duration. Some dogs  might not like peanuts and some owners refuse to give candy but I have  never seen one that did not like cheese.</p>
<p>I don&#8217;t know anyone else  who suffers with HG like me so all I can pass along is what seems to  work best for me. I find a diet of NO Sugar, High Protein and Low carbs  works best for me yet my doctor would have me on a completely different  diet that I feel lousy on. I too will be interested to hear what a Vet  would recommend for a dog with true Hypoglycemia. The nutrition bars  sound like a great idea to me as long as they contain something more  then just sugars.</p>
<p>What must be understood here is that  Hypoglycemia is not the same in all people nor is there one correct diet  for all persons with HG. It all depends upon what a particular persons  body and metabolism is doing with the foods they eat. What seems to work  best for me won&#8217;t work best for all so if your dog really is  experiencing issues with low blood sugars you will need to experiment to  see what works best but I am willing to bet that sugar is NOT the  answer.</p>
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<h1>Need for Vest when hunting up north!</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=383">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=383</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>superweimer</strong></div>
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<p>Looking for a little help. I plan to take my 3  yr old weimaraner male on a hunt in Penn. this year.   I live in texas,  and was wondering if purhcasing a vest would be a wise thing? I know it  will be colder there, (not to mention the heavy brush) and thought a  vest could keep him warm and hunting all day.  Can anyone recommend a  vest that protects from briars and keeps warm?</p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p>Superweimer <img title="Confused" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_confused.gif" alt=":?" /></p>
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<div>by <strong>PA_Sportsman</strong></div>
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<p>Being located in PA and having hunted here my  whole life, I can&#8217;t say that a vest is necessary unless you&#8217;ll be  hunting waterfowl.  If you going to be hunting just upland, you, in most  cases, won&#8221;t need a vest.  I have a weim / GSP and this past winter, a  vest gave her more trouble than it was worth.</p>
<p>If you are set on getting one, make sure that it has a reinforced chest area.</p>
<p>Best of luck!!</p>
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<div>by <strong>superweimer</strong></div>
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<p>Thanks for the help. I plan just to hunt upland  birds in October of this year.  I did this last year, but didn&#8217;t bring  my boy along. Was not that cold, but I was afraid he might take longer  to get used to the weather than I did. Sure he will be fine.  I think  for now I will hold off, or maybe just get a chest protector.</p>
<p>Thanks agian for the response! <img title="UT" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/s-shock.gif" alt=":shock:" /></p>
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<div>by <strong>Bird Dog 67</strong></div>
<div>I have a Skid plate vest that my Weim absolutely REFUSES to wear if you&#8217;re in the market for one.</div>
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<div>by <strong>superweimer</strong></div>
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<p>May be interested in the vest. Send pictures and info to me at <!-- e --><a href="mailto:weimaraner@ev1.net">weimaraner@ev1.net</a><!-- e -->.</p>
<p>Regards,<br />
Superweimer</p>
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<div>by <strong>ckfowler</strong></div>
<div>My brother hunts his GWP in PA and last year  she found a sharp stick with the other end anchored.  Tore a huge hole  in her chest requiring stitches and weeks off.  Can&#8217;t avoid every danger  but I bought a chest protecter for my dog and we are getting used to it  slowly.</div>
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<div>by <strong>ourhunters</strong></div>
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<p>Duke has been getting pretty scratched up, etc.   I&#8217;m wondering which vest to get for him.   There are so many different  kinds, not sure what to pick. And, when you got your vest by wt of the  dog, did it fit right?  Duke has such a deep chest, I&#8217;m wondering how  they&#8217;ll fit.  Any good vests you know of let me know.  Thanks.</p>
<p>Caren</p>
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<div>by <strong>dhondtm</strong></div>
<div>I&#8217;d be interested too.  It took us 3 different  harnesses before I found one to fit Cassi.  The Weimarner has such a  distinguished chest compared to other dogs they don&#8217;t fit most the gear  out there.</div>
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<div>by <strong>sdgord</strong></div>
<div>We have two chest protectors that we got for  our weim. The neoprene is the one we use when it gets cold here in SD.  Warm weather we use a kevlar skid plate. Try to go to a supplier that  has multiple choices and is willing to come out to the parking lot with  you to fit the proper one. I think LCS and Cabelas carry the most. We  have a Cabelas close to us and they brought out several vests to try on.  The best idea is to get them used to the vest before the season. I  always put a bit of vaseline or mineral oil in the armpit area. Seems to  cut down on the chaffing. The best fit for the neoprene vest for our  weim was the xl and was a snug fit. Make sure you take the vest off  after running through a lot of junk. Once in a while you can get some  twigs etc. inside through the arm holes. Good luck SDGORD</div>
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<h1>Upland pack reviews</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=8344">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=8344</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>stinkbelly</strong></div>
<div>I am looking at three upland hunting packs.  I  was wondering if anyone had any info on them.  I will have to order it  off the internet, so I buy before I can try.  They are the Mother  Technical Bird Hunting Pack, the Cabelas Light N Load Strap Vest, and  the LL Bean Upland Vest/Pack.  I heard the LL Bean is a copy off of the  Mother.  The main thing I want is the ability to put the birds in the  pack without dropping them behind me.</div>
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<div>by <strong>stinkbelly</strong></div>
<div>Well I bought the Cabelas Light N Load strap  vest because I found one in the store and could play with it.  I think  it will work really good.  I do have to be careful loading game because  it is a back load.  I may still look at others because Cabelas has an  excellent return policy and it is only 45 minutes from my house.</div>
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<div>by <strong>tfbirddog2</strong></div>
<div>I guide and have a cabelas lite vest and  mothers too, the cabelas will hold more birds, but doesnt have the  support the mothers has.I just bought a Pella vest for when it is cool  out and plaining to by a vest we sell a the lodge I think is called a  Chukar Vest similar to the mothers and camelback strap vest but has more  room for birds which is a must doing what I do.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Chaingang</strong></div>
<div>I use the Quilomene Hunting Vest, and love it.<br />
<!-- m --><a href="http://www.quilomene.com/">http://www.quilomene.com/</a><!-- m --></div>
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<h1>Hunting GSP&#8217;S in the snow?</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=81&amp;t=6285">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=81&amp;t=6285</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>AZHUNT09</strong></div>
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<p>Hello all!</p>
<p>I plan to take a hunting trip to northern nevada in december with my  GSP&#8217;s. there will probably be snow. My question is I live in phx, az  and for me to take my hot desert dogs up to the freezing cold high  desert what procautions do i need to take? Do i use booty&#8217;s on their  feet? Fatten them up? These dogs are use to hot weather. We&#8217;ll be up  there for at least a week. More than likely they will stay in the garage  in crate&#8217;s because of my parents dog. I dont want a comfrontation  between the dogs.</p>
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<div>by <strong>YellowChase</strong></div>
<div>I can&#8217;t help you&#8230;i&#8217;m sure someone on this  site will be able to help you&#8230;however i was wondering what you are  going to be hunting?</div>
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<div>by <strong>ezzy333</strong></div>
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<p>Maybe a vest but I don&#8217;t think I would worry about boots.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
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<div>by <strong>bobman</strong></div>
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<p>I take mine from Georgia to North dakota ( its very cold 5-30 degrees most days) in December every year with no ill affects.</p>
<p>I would be more concerned about being in the crates in a garage at  night. I would get those insulated covers for the crates and also put  some heavy blankets under the crates to keep them from getting cold and  losing body heat thru the floor of the crate while on the garage floor.</p>
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<div>by <strong>AZHUNT09</strong></div>
<div>I&#8217;ll be hunting quail and chukar. what kind of vest like a neoprene?</div>
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<div>by <strong>AZHUNT09</strong></div>
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<p>Sorry about the CAPS</p>
<p>OH TRUST ME I WILL INSULATE THOSE CRATE EVERYWAY SHAPE AND FORM. I  EVEN THOUGHT ABOUT THOSE ELECTRIC BLANKETS. I WOULD KEEP THEM IN THE  HOUSE BUT MY PARENTS DOG IS LIKE THERE SECOND CHILD AND IT GETS WHAT  EVER IT WANTS. SO THEY WILL PROBABLY WONT KEEP HER IN THE BEDROOM AT  NIGHT, SO THAT MEANS I CAN KEEP MY DOGS IN CRATES AT NIGHT IN THE HOUSE.  SHE WILL TAUNT THEM.</p>
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<div>by <strong>RuttCrazed</strong></div>
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<p>I live in Utah and hunt chukars from September  (80+) to January (-20) and I don&#8217;t do one thing different, other than  carry more water in the heat.  Once those dogs start running, they  aren&#8217;t going to notice the cold!  They might burn some more calories  shivering in the box (need a little more food maybe) but once the fun  starts, no problems!</p>
<p><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v127/RuttCrazed/Chukars003.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
<p>Rut</p>
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<div>by <strong>DGFavor</strong></div>
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<p>Yup, what Rutt said.  I&#8217;d be more worried doing the opposite&#8230;going from our country down south &#8211; heat kills.</p>
<p>Hard to say on the boots deal.  Sometimes the snow will have a crust  that can ouch up the dogs a little as they break through.  Even though  I&#8217;m not really a dogboot guy (gotta breed for sound, tough feet!!), if I  was going on a trip like you are planning and thought sore feet might  be a problem, I&#8217;d just boot &#8216;em from the start, do your best to be sure  they stay sound throughout your trip rather than risk it and go without,  ending up with a bunch of non-usable dogs one day into your hunt.</p>
<p>Sounds fun!</p>
<p>Oh, the electric blanket&#8230; the only dog I&#8217;ve ever heard of that  froze to death did so the night it&#8217;s well meaning owners put an electric  blanket in it&#8217;s house.  Don&#8217;t know why but the dog ended up not wanting  to go in the house it had spent it&#8217;s whole life in and froze to death.   Bad deal.</p>
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<div>by <strong>bobman</strong></div>
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<p>I would forget the electric blanket also, you won&#8217;t need the vest either.</p>
<p>Feed the dogs at night so they have a full belly and do what I suggested with the crate and they will be warm.</p>
<p>Its a big difference in temp from here to ND and my shorthairs never  ever seem to  notice. I think they like it colder they are friskier and  more playful.</p>
<p>If it got so cold they couldn&#8217;t handle it I doubt I would be out there either.</p>
<p>Of course don&#8217;t let them get wet. I mean as in swimming not a little  wet from the snow. I&#8217;ve never booted my dogs but I have enough of them  to rotate them and the snow sometimes does make their feet raw by the  end of the week.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Pryor Creek Okie</strong></div>
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<div>Once those dogs start running, they aren&#8217;t going to notice the cold!</div>
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<p>Right on! I have hunted my GSP in Alaska in December with nothing  but her collar on. I actually bought a vest for her, but she just kept  trying to get out of it, so I took it off and she was fine. As far as  boots go, I would stay away from them in extreme cold. Snow will  inevitably get inside and melt from the body heat. Then when your dog  slows down, it will freeze and could cause serious problems. Just check  the dogs feet often and ensure that there is not a lot of snow and ice  building up between the toes.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Flush</strong></div>
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<p>I&#8217;m wondering if the folks who are recommending against boots have hunted wild chukar?</p>
<p>You certainly won&#8217;t need boots for the cold or deep snow, but you  may want them for the rocks and or ice/crusty snow. Even dogs with good  feet need to have them conditioned for the chukar hills. Arizona has  some rough ground for sure, but it&#8217;s still not the same as chukar  country, so it&#8217;s hard to say if you dog&#8217;s feet will be fully conditioned  for it or not? Even if there is snow (which is obviously no gurantee)  often the best chukar spots will be were the snow has melted or been  blown away and the rocks will be exposed.</p>
<p>Chukar terrain varies a lot. Where you are hunting may be grassy  with sage and you&#8217;ll have no problem, or it may be a ton of volcanic  rock which is brutal. I would always at least take some GOOD dog boots  with me just in case. The only commercial boots I have used that hold up  at all in chukar country are Lewis boots (all rubber). The cheap  leather and neopreme ones I a have seen don&#8217;t work at all.</p>
<p>Many a dog brought on its first chukar hunt becomes un-usable after  one day or less from torn up feet. I would at least take boots so you  are prepared, and I would suggest putting them on your dogs a time or  two at home so you learn how to properly attach them first so you don&#8217;t  immediately loose them (like I have done)</p>
<p>Good Luck, and have a great trip!</p>
<p>-Flush</p>
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<div>by <strong>DGFavor</strong></div>
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<div>I&#8217;m wondering if the folks who are recommending against boots have hunted wild chukar?</div>
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<p>I&#8217;m not sure if I recommended &#8216;em or not&#8230; <img title="Confused" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_confused.gif" alt=":?" /> I can say that I&#8217;ve hunted chukars for 30+ years and have maybe only  used boots 4 or 5 times on only one dog that for some reason got torn up  by crusty snow.  I have had a couple other dogs (high fallootin field  trial bred dogs I might add) that would sore their feet and they just  have to toughen up or sit out.  In our country, you gotta consider the  feet in your breedings IMO.</p>
<p>If I was going on a several day hunt that I&#8217;d planned and dreamed of  for months in advance and had concerns about my dogs feet &#8211; I&#8217;d just  boot &#8216;em from the start and take the worry out of it.</p>
<p>I went to the Reg. 8 NGSPA trials last year and you just can&#8217;t run a  dog there without boots.  I&#8217;m not sure you could put a foot down  anywhere and not step on a tiny little cactus.  My dogs had never worn  boots but ran just fine with &#8216;em on&#8230;actually took a RU.  Can&#8217;t  remember what kind of boots we used but they worked really well &#8211; like  little hiking boots.  I carried &#8216;em with me all chukar season but never  had reason to use &#8216;em.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Wagonmaster</strong></div>
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<p>Second the motion.  They get used to boots  right away quick.  I have seen alot of dogs run in the R8 and Hun  Championships that Doug mentioned, they are all booted, and after the  first two steps they just go.  It does not slow them down, if anything,  on bad ground such as that cactus country they can go harder.</p>
<p>I used to hate boots, but they make some pretty good ones now and  after seeing them used out in the West, I don&#8217;t hesitate.  They are not  perfect though.  The dogs can still get some spines in their feet,  through the boots.  Check their feet even if booted.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Pryor Creek Okie</strong></div>
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<div>I&#8217;m wondering if the folks who are recommending against boots have hunted wild chukar?</div>
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<p>Flush, I have not hunted chukar, but the original question was  pertaining to hunting in snow. If you feel like your dogs need  protection from rocks then by all means put some boots on them. I&#8217;m only  suggesting that you don&#8217;t use them in extreme cold. With that said, I&#8217;d  like to share a picture from an early season hunt for rock ptarmigan.  Not the best picture, but it will give you an idea of the terrain.</p>
<p>This is my son, Austin, and his pup, Daisy, in the White Mountains north of Fairbanks, AK.</p>
<p><img src="http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r122/du4u02/1432-R1-02-1A.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
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<div>by <strong>Flush</strong></div>
<div>Doug,<br />
I certainly have seen enough of your posts to know you hunt chukar  <img title="Very Happy" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" /><br />
I agree 100% with your comment. I don&#8217;t really like boots, but I  always recommend at least taking them for someone coming for a big trip  into chukar country. We have chukar here in western Colorado it is very  nasty stuff just like most other chukar areas. Unfortunately were I live  in the eastern half we simply don&#8217;t have terrain to get their feet  conditioned the same is if you train in it. My dog is from chukar dog  breeding in which good feet AND being very light on their feet is an  important part of breeding as you suggested, but unfortunately if you  don&#8217;t hunt and condition in it regularily you may run into issues. In  four trips to Idaho this past year, I only booted up once in a really  nasty area. I don&#8217;t know if I had to or not, but figured better to be  safe than sorry.</p>
<p>I asked about folks saying out-right &#8220;No&#8221; to boots as an honest  question on my part. Most chukar hunters I know at least recommend  having them on hand just in case especially if you are coming from out  of state for a big &#8220;dream&#8221; trip. I thought maybe some folks thought that  they were simply un-needed for chukar hunting trips?</p>
<p>-Flush</p>
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<div>by <strong>Ari K</strong></div>
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<p>We hunt in this kind of conditions with our dogs without any problems (teperatures from -4 to +32 fahrenheit) (and no boots):</p>
<p><img src="http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p120/Ari_K/IMG_1806.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
<p><img src="http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p120/Ari_K/IMG_1820.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
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<div>by <strong>AceofSpades41</strong></div>
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<p>Ari K</p>
<p>sounds like tough conditions, that sure is one tough pup   <img title="Very Happy" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" /> My eyes aren&#8217;t what they used to be, what type of bird is he retrieving  <img title="Question" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_question.gif" alt=":?:" /></p>
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<div>by <strong>Pryor Creek Okie</strong></div>
<div>Looks like a willow ptarmigan.</div>
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<div>by <strong>AZHUNT09</strong></div>
<div>Thanks All,<br />
I talked to my trainer and he told me to take a set for each dog  just in case. He has used them in the past, said they work but only buy  the good ones and tape them on and dont be cheap buy a good set. Its  funny most of you talk about conditioning. Well last weekend the local  hunt club had a training day (my dog trainer was running the training  classes) and I took my 4 month old female up to run her and she found  out what cactus is all about. She didnt get into it bad but had it in  all of her feet. Pulled them out and she stay just far enough away but  was nose down all day. Poor thing but it was eventually going to happen.</p>
<p>Thanks to all of you for your input. Im going to buy a couple of  sets just in case we need them. The areas that we will be hunting I have  hunted before just not for chukar (yotes and cats). So I will be  prepared in case something happens.<br />
Thanks again<br />
Chris</p>
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<div>by <strong>Ari K</strong></div>
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<p>AceofSpades41:</p>
<p>yep, it is a willow ptarmigan (lagopus lagopus). In europe we call  it willow grouse. Actually we had quite nice conditions for winter  hunting this year. Usually snow (2-3 feet deep) is soft in this time of  year and running is much harder for dogs.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Terry</strong></div>
<div>I would at least bring boots, but I would use  vet wrap instead of tape.  I have used them hunting chukar&#8230;just  depends&#8230;but when I use tape in the snow, it justs ends up getting wet  and not sticking.  Last time I used boots, I wrapped them up in vet wrap  and it worked well.</div>
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<div>by <strong>ezzy333</strong></div>
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<p>If you couldn&#8217;t hunt in snow there are many  years there would be no hunting.  The only time I have needed boots is  in the sand with the sandburrs that are wicked.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
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<div>by <strong>bird</strong></div>
<div>.</div>
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<div>by <strong>jbogacki76</strong></div>
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<p>IMy gsp runs his bads in the ice covered snow.  He still hunts with raw feet. I met a guy that ran sleds in alaska and  he told me to try Mushers Wax. I did, and it works pretty good. Keeps  the cold edge off the feet and cuts down on the rawness. Also keeps the  salt off tha pads which is the biggest burden for me.</p>
<p><!-- m --><a href="http://www.handsnpaws.com/product/GESTHLTHMUSHERS">http://www.handsnpaws.com/product/GESTHLTHMUSHERS</a><!-- m --></p>
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<div>by <strong>PntrRookie</strong></div>
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<p>Love hunting GSPs in the snow&#8230;</p>
<p><img src="http://www.gundogforum.com/album/d/7051-1/GrouseHunting+001.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
<p><img src="http://www.gundogforum.com/album/d/1106-1/RookiePoint.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
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<div>by <strong>Windyhills</strong></div>
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<p>I&#8217;d suggest bringing boots unless you have  up  to date snow condition knowledge in the area you will be hunting.  Many  snow conditions aren&#8217;t a problem, but if you get into the type of snow  that thawed and then froze again, it can really be rough on a dogs feet.  We have had some problems with this in recent years, particularly when  there are stubble fields (hay or beans) in the mix as well.  My bitch  will keep going until her feet are really tore up, so I check her out  several times a day.  If it looks real crusty and sharp I boot her from  the get go.</p>
<p>What I don&#8217;t know is how dogs with pads used to running some of the  western rock country would hold up in those snow conditions&#8211;may not  bother them as much but not certain&#8230;</p>
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<div>by <strong>ohio hunter</strong></div>
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<p>Hi all, I am new to this site.  Hope to get to know you all.</p>
<p>Just curious, what would be a good brand/pair of dog boots to buy  and where would you order them from (LCS, Gun Dog Supply, Cabela&#8217;s,  etc&#8230;)?</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
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<div>by <strong>ezzy333</strong></div>
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<p>Ohio Hunter,</p>
<p>Why do you need boots?  Are you thinking snow or burrs or what?</p>
<p>W3lcome to the board.  Hope you enjoy.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
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<div>by <strong>Greg Jennings</strong></div>
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<p>Buckeye_V and I were hunting two winters ago with my dogs.</p>
<p>The conditions were such that it was &#8220;icing&#8221; not &#8220;snowing&#8221;.</p>
<p>The dogs, although they had been doing great in normal snow, were getting their pads worn.</p>
<p>We&#8217;d been out a long time and I called &#8220;time&#8221;.  But, I think it was  more for the hunters than the dogs.  It was *nasty* out that day.</p>
<p>Still, I&#8217;m thinking about buying boots and keeping them on hand for those conditions, sand burrs, volcanic rock, etc.</p>
<p>Best regards, Greg J.</p>
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<div>by <strong>ohio hunter</strong></div>
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<p>Why do you need boots? Are you thinking snow or burrs or what?</p>
<p>W3lcome to the board. Hope you enjoy.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the welcome!  THe only thing I have gotten into where  they might come in handy has been sand burs and ice.  I was more curious  than anything, as I had a dog cut a pad once but I am guessing she  stepped on a rock or something because there was no ice/snow and the  area we were hunting wasn&#8217;t all that rugged.  She ended up getting  stiched up &amp; was out of commission for a month.  After that, I  thought about getting shoes just to keep.</p>
<p>Thanks again for the welcome!</p>
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<div>by <strong>fishvik</strong></div>
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<p>I lived in Winnemucca for 8 years and hunted  chukars from the beginning of the season in Oct to the end in January  every year.  Unless you are hunting north of Elko, zero degrees is about  as cold as it will get.  Snow normally doesn&#8217;t last long into the day  unless you get a real dumping. The south facing slopes usually burn off  by mid morning.</p>
<p>I hunted most of that time with a Lab/Pointer cross that had a  pointers coat. I never had her wear a vest or boots and I never saw her  get cold or end up with sore feet. She usually rode in an uninsulated  kennel, with straw in it,  in the bed of my truck unless it was really  cold or raining. In which case she rode on the floor of the cab. She  slept inside at night.  The only thing I made sure of was that she got  some extra fat in her diet.</p>
<p>Your dog(s) will do fine without too many other accomodations in winter in Nevada in my opinion.</p>
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<h1>Winter hunting your dogs&#8230;.</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=81&amp;t=8599">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=81&amp;t=8599</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>Daniel in Ak</strong></div>
<div>Pryor Creek Okie gave me and Idea for a  topic.And It made me think how many of you all hunt your dogs in the  winter? And If so whats the coldest you&#8217;ve used your dogs in it?  Matter-of-fact lets hear some winter topics or ideas on winterizing your  dogs on the hunt.And of course pics.<br />
For me Ive had my dogs out hunting in 20 below weather.All Ive had  to do is put hay in my Kennel load it up on the 4 wheeler and go.The  cold never seemed to bother them,but now I have the pointer so I&#8217;ll see  how she does.<br />
This was a warm day at 10 or so above&#8230;<br />
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/DanielinAk/Bird%20hunts/P32500012.jpg" alt="Image" /><br />
And the deep snow we where hitting&#8230;<br />
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/DanielinAk/Bird%20hunts/P32500052.jpg" alt="Image" /><br />
And a couple of Army boys I took out on there 1st Ptarmigan hunt before they left&#8230;<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/DanielinAk/Bird%20hunts/P32600172.jpg" alt="Image" /><br />
And btw we drove the truck off the road on the way home after that  hunt.Anyhow thats about all I can find right now.And I really dont do  anything special for the dogs in the winter.There pretty good up to  about 40 below and then they only stayout side for a half hour  maybe.Daniel</div>
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<div>by <strong>snips</strong></div>
<div>Nice pics!  WAY TOO COLD for me!!!</div>
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<div>by <strong>DGFavor</strong></div>
<div>Cold is easy &#8211; heat kills, thats the toughy IMO. <img title="Smile" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" /></div>
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<div>by <strong>Terry</strong></div>
<div>Later in the season it gets down around 10 in  the mornings where I hunt Chukar &amp; Quail.  I have labs, they don&#8217;t  seem to care about the cold much.  In fact usually they start rolling in  the snow to cool off whenever we stop to take a break; I&#8217;ll have to get  a picture of that, looks like they are sunbathing.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Pryor Creek Okie</strong></div>
<div>Daniel, I had both a pointer and a GSP in AK. I  hunted them both in temps down to about -10 degrees. I&#8217;m sure they  would have loved to go  hunting in weather colder than that, but not me.  I just kept an eye on the weather and if we got a warm snap I&#8217;d go  hunting. I never really did anything special to winterize them. I bought  a vest for Annie, but she spent more time trying to get out of it than  she spent hunting, so I took it off of her and never used it again. You  do have to keep a close eye on them and remember that what you&#8217;re doing  with Gortex, boots, and snowshoes, they are doing barefoot and naked.  The limited amount of daylight up there is probably a blessing in that  you can only hunt for a couple hours a day during the winter.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Ruffshooter</strong></div>
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<p>Our hunting season for Grouse ends the End of  December so it does not get that cold temprature wise.  It is the wind  that bothers the short coated dogs.  The britts seem to hold up better  than the Short hairs.  My GSP Mercy is fine so long as we are moving  down to 10 degrees or so. The temps here are pretty warm during most of  the season rarely getting below 10 degrees for the day time highs.   Mostly around 20 to 30&#8242;s which any dog can handle.</p>
<p>I do not feed the dogs the day of the hunt other than a couple of  Hard boiled eggs and plenty of water, then thier meal plus some.  (Dogs  do dehydrate in cold temps. if not drinking enough.)  I don&#8217;t know about  dogs but when I eat a full meal during a hunt, I get cold shortly  after.  The body diverts its energy, and you stop moving which allows  your core temp to drop.</p>
<p>Foot gear.  There is a lot of good foot gear out there. I think the  mistake most folks make is getting their boots warm and wearing to many  socks and worse yet cotton socks.  cotton anything is a mistake.   &#8220;Cotton Kills&#8221;</p>
<p>Keep your boots near the door on the floor where it is cool. Wear on  pare of wool, polypopolyne or other cold weather sock that does not  trap foot moisture.</p>
<p>Now late season Sea Duck Hunting is a whole different thing.  Which I have done only twice so far.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Grange</strong></div>
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<p>Coldest I&#8217;ve think I&#8217;ve hunted at least with my  dog was actually not the coldest temperature.  A few years ago I went  to SD for pheasant hunting over Christmas.  The first day was 11 degrees  F with high winds.  That wind really sent a chill down my back.  After a  little walking though in the snow I warmed up and my lab didn&#8217;t seem to  realize it was cold.  After a full days hunt I was beat.  Between  fighting the wind and the condition of the snow I don&#8217;t know if I&#8217;ve  ever been that tired from bird hunting before.</p>
<p>The next day it was 0 degrees F but low wind, compared to the  previous day, so it seemed warmer.  I actually broke a sweat that day  walking through the snow.</p>
<p>I think most dogs can hunt in that weather.  I would guess the body  heat they generate while running will keep them warm, but have them just  hang out while you screw around with equipment or clean the birds and  some dog can&#8217;t handle the cold nearly as well as others.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Daniel in Ak</strong></div>
<div>Ruffshooter&#8230;I so appreciate your info and  insights,Im going to try that feeding issue before taking the dogs  out.Right now we had a little snow blowing in and its still warm at 25  degrees.Daniel</div>
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<div>by <strong>zodiakgsps</strong></div>
<div>These were from last year, I&#8217;ll hunt every  chance I get providing the snows aren&#8217;t to bad, dogs don&#8217;t seem to mind  the cold, but I mind the deep snow &amp; boy did we get that last year! I  have a van, and put blankets in their crates so they&#8217;re comfortable  after hunting.<br />
This is our second season grouse, the day a big storm started to hit  &amp; the last day that was huntable&#8230;..sorry, only a pointing pic,  I&#8217;m not the best wingshooter.. <img title="Embarassed" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_redface.gif" alt=":oops:" /></p>
<p><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s93/zodiakgsps/10711.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
<p>This is the next day &amp; why I didn&#8217;t hunt anymore last year!!<br />
<img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s93/zodiakgsps/snowdogs018.jpg" alt="Image" /></p>
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<div>by <strong>gonehuntin&#8217;</strong></div>
<div>I put this caution on the other post; you&#8217;ll  frost your lungs and the dog&#8217;s if you hunt in 40-50 below weather. You  can wear a bandanna or face mask to protect your lungs but the dog&#8217;s  can&#8217;t. I personally don&#8217;t hunt when it&#8217;s below zero and even that&#8217;s too  cold as far as I&#8217;m concerned.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Daniel in Ak</strong></div>
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<p>zodiakgsps&#8230;dude I like the pic&#8217;s but that  second one has me laughing,your poor dog looks like he&#8217;s saying..&#8221; and  you expect me to find birds in this?&#8221; hahahaha! Thanks for sharing.</p>
<p>gonehuntin&#8217;, dude,I know thats way cold but tis not like you  think,but you did make a great point about the cold lungs and I hope  others read that because that air is way freaking cold to breath  in&#8230;.but anyhow we stay in the truck with the heater blowing and we are  roasty toasty in there till we see a bird <img title="Smile" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" /> Thats what I meant about huntig at 40-50 below.Daniel</p>
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<div>by <strong>Pryor Creek Okie</strong></div>
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<div><cite>Daniel in Ak wrote:</cite>zodiakgsps&#8230;dude  I like the pic&#8217;s but that second one has me laughing,your poor dog  looks like he&#8217;s saying..&#8221; and you expect me to find birds in this?&#8221;  hahahaha! Thanks for sharing.</div>
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<p>Daniel, the way the birds up there like to burrow into the snow for warmth, that just may be the perfect dog for Alaska.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Daniel in Ak</strong></div>
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<blockquote>
<div>Pryor Creek Okie;<br />
Daniel, the way the birds up there like to burrow into the snow for warmth, that just may be the perfect dog for Alaska.</div>
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<p>You know I think your onto something there.Im wondering If the dogs  points will I be able to see the dog under the snow pointing? or will I  just see the tip of the tail sticking out of the snow?  <img title="Laughing" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" /> Daniel</p>
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<div>by <strong>ezzy333</strong></div>
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<p>That depends on two things, how deep is the snow and how long is the tail.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
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<div>by <strong>zodiakgsps</strong></div>
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<p><cite>Daniel in Ak wrote:</cite>zodiakgsps&#8230;dude  I like the pic&#8217;s but that second one has me laughing,your poor dog  looks like he&#8217;s saying..&#8221; and you expect me to find birds in this?&#8221;  hahahaha! Thanks for sharing.</p>
<p>gonehuntin&#8217;, dude,I know thats way  cold but tis not like you think,but you did make a great point about the  cold lungs and I hope others read that because that air is way freaking  cold to breath in&#8230;.but anyhow we stay in the truck with the heater  blowing and we are roasty toasty in there till we see a bird <img title="Smile" src="file:///Volumes/Macintosh%20HD%202/robsnell/Desktop/vests/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" /> Thats what I meant about huntig at 40-50 below.Daniel</p>
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<p>That&#8217;s my 9 yo in that pic, he knows when the snows get this deep,  hunting is over, he&#8217;s actually waiting for me to throw snowballs, one of  his favorite winter games, LOL!! If you look by the brushline, you&#8217;ll  see a path&#8230;&#8230;that&#8217;s from my 1 yo Duece&#8230;.he&#8217;s in the pic too,  somewhere all the way at the end of the brush&#8230;just a dot.<br />
Didn&#8217;t think he&#8217;d roll in all that snow, figured I&#8217;d just let the 2  run a bit in my buddies back yard for some exercise &amp; play in the  snow, my buddy had to go round him up with his snowmobile, I wasn&#8217;t  about to try &amp; gather him up on foot. Temps weren&#8217;t terrible, 20&#8242;s.</p>
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<p><!-- /* proSilver Print Style Sheet                         - 	Author: subBlue  ( http://www.subBlue.com/ ) 	Version: 25 August 2004  	Copyright 2004 phpBB Group                         -*/   /* Lots still TODO here! */  /* General markup styles */ * { 	padding: 0; 	margin: 0; }  body { 	font: 11pt Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	color:#000000; }  a:link		{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:visited	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } a:active	{ color: #000000; text-decoration: none; }  img, .noprint, #sub-header, #sub-footer, .navbar, .box1, .divider, .signature { display: none; }  /* Container for the main body */ #wrap { 	margin: 0 2em; }  p { font-size: 85%; } .copyright { font-size: 75%; } .page-number { float:right; width: auto; text-align: right; font-size: 75%; }  h1, h2, h3, h1 a, h2 a, h3 a { 	font-family: "Trebuchet MS",georgia,Verdana,Sans-serif; 	color: #000000; 	background: none; 	text-decoration: none; 	font-weight: bold; }  h1 { font-size: 20pt; } h2 { font-size: 16pt; margin-top: 1em; } h3 { font-size: 14pt; margin-top: 1em; }  .content { 	font-size: 11pt; 	line-height: 14pt; 	margin-bottom: 1em; 	font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	overflow: hidden; }  /* CSS2 Print tip from: http://www.alistapart.com/articles/goingtoprint/ */ .postbody a:link, .postbody a:visited, .postbody a:active, .postbody a:hover { 	text-decoration: underline; 	padding: 0.1em 0.2em; 	margin: -0.1em -0.2em; 	color: #666; 	background: none; 	font-size: 100%; }  html>body .postbody a:link:after, html>body .postbody a:visited:after { 	content: &#8221; (&#8221; attr(href) &#8220;) &#8220;; 	font-size: 90%; 	text-decoration: none; }  hr { 	height: 1px; 	background-color: #999999; 	border-width: 0; }  .author { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	font-size: 75%; 	margin-bottom: 0.6em; }  .date { 	font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; 	float: right; 	position: relative; 	text-align: right; 	font-size: 75%; }  /* Dont want to print url for names or titles in content area */ .postbody .author a:link, .postbody .author a:visited,  html>body .postbody .author a:link:after,  html>body .postbody .author a:visited:after, .postquote .quote-by a:link, .postquote .quote-by a:visited,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:link:after,  html>body .postquote .quote-by a:visited:after, html>body .postbody h1 a:link:after, html>body .postbody h2 a:link:after { 	text-decoration: none; 	content: &#8220;&#8221;; }  /* Poster profile */ .postprofile { display: none; } .grip-show { display:none; }  /* Quote */ .postquote { 	font-size: 85%; 	margin: 1em 18% 1em 4%; 	padding: 0.5em; 	position: relative; 	line-height: 1.5em; 	border: 1px #999999 solid; }  .postquote img { display: none; } .postquote span { display: block; } .postquote span .postquote { font-size: 100%; } .quote-by { font-weight: bold; }  /* Misc page elements */ div.spacer { clear: both; }  /* Accessibility tweaks: Mozilla.org */ .skip_link { display: none; } &#8211;></p>
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		<title>Hunting Dog Boots</title>
		<link>http://gundogforum.com/blog/2010/hunting-dog-boots</link>
		<comments>http://gundogforum.com/blog/2010/hunting-dog-boots#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Dec 2010 00:57:02 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[&#160; Securing Lewis Dog Boots (black rubber) http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=88&#38;t=15610 by Fokker28 Any suggestions on the best way to secure these dog boots? http://www.gundogsupply.com/dog-boots.html by bearnevada I know this is late, but after loosing a few lewis dog boots my methed is&#8230; vet wrap &#8230; <a href="http://gundogforum.com/blog/2010/hunting-dog-boots">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
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<h1>Securing Lewis Dog Boots (black rubber)</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=88&amp;t=15610" target="_blank">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=88&amp;t=15610</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>Fokker28</strong></div>
<div>Any suggestions on the best way to secure these dog boots?</div>
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<div><a href="http://www.gundogsupply.com/dog-boots.html">http://www.gundogsupply.com/dog-boots.html<br />
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<div>by <strong>bearnevada</strong></div>
<div>I know this is late, but after loosing a few lewis dog boots my methed is&#8230;<br />
vet wrap around anckle<br />
slip boot on<br />
pick up opposite foot to aply weight to that boot<br />
fold down front@back flap<br />
2 wraps of athletic to leg don&#8217;t tear<br />
unfold back flap<br />
1 wrap around flap and leg don&#8217;t tear<br />
unfold front flap<br />
2 wraps around flap and leg tear tape<br />
last but not least &#8220;red duct tape&#8221; to cap it off<br />
easy to find red duct tape</div>
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<h1>dog boots to protect paw injury</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=10748" target="_blank">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=10748</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>firstchoicehardwood</strong></div>
<div>My brittany has a paw injury and he still wants to get in the woods so Im looking for a good pair of dog boots that will stay on him in the Michigan snow. If anyone has any suggestions or has used and like a certain brand please let me know. Thanks.</div>
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<div>by <strong>ezzy333</strong></div>
<div>Do a search on dog boots as we have had some real good discussions about them a few months ago.Ezzy</div>
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<div>by <strong>OK quail hunter</strong></div>
<div>I personally have always used the Lewis Dog Boots with great success. My dad tried some of the nylon type with the velcro once and ended the day with a dog that only had two boots to wear. I believe gundog supply carries the lewis boots. I know lots of different people use all different kinds of dog boots, but this is just my opinion.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Ryan Baumann</strong></div>
<div>by the boots that the dogs on the ididerrod use. they are in cabelas. they are the best period. the next best thing is to go buy some baby socks and use them. they only last a couple hours but work very well. just keep putting new ones on as they wear out. i&#8217;ve seen just a bout every boot. they are just like ours. if they don&#8217;t fit right they will rui8n the dogs feet to.</div>
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<div>by <strong>ezzy333</strong></div>
<div>Most people use duct tape to keep them on I believe.Ezzy</div>
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<div>by <strong>Ryan Baumann</strong></div>
<div>yes i use tape to keep mine on. thanks ezzy. without it they don&#8217;t stay on 5 minutes.</div>
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<div>by <strong>gwgdog66</strong></div>
<div>My cousin recently went through this with his Brittany. We read this procedure here on the forum a few month back.He used Vet wrap around the ankle and shin. He bought Ruffwear dog boots which stay on fairly well anyway. Used cloth medical tape to tape the boot onto the Vet wrap, then duct tape on top of that. It worked well. The boot stayed on the whole day. Removing it was easy at the end of the day. No tape stuck to the dogs hair because he used the vet wrap.</div>
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<div>by <strong>firstchoicehardwood</strong></div>
<div>Thanks for all the good info.</div>
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<h1>Use Baby Socks and Duck Tape?</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=81&amp;t=21855" target="_blank">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=81&amp;t=21855</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>mandrakeduck</strong></div>
<div>I expect to get some sarcasim on this post. So fire awayBut&#8230;. does anyone use baby socks and duck tape for dog boots? A long time ago I read a post where someone used this. They claimed that this technique kept dirt and small rocks from getting into the boots.My dog came down with sore feet last weekend while we were on vacation and I put baby socks and duck tape on her feet. It worked well except, the duck tape got mangled during the hunt.</p>
<p>If you use this technique, how do you apply the duck tape so that it last the whole hunt?</p>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
<div>I didn&#8217;t use baby socks but- first time down here quite some time ago we hit a field full of sand burss-<br />
took a regular pair of socks, cut in 1/2, put them over a foot, completely wrapped in duct tape- lasted 1/2 a day- but we weren&#8217;t in rocks<br />
depending on the ground duct tape will last only so longnow I make my own out of heavy brush pants- the extra heavy front of the legs, and tape the tops-<br />
other than that- I bougth 8 dog boots for $2.50 each- like them quite a bit</div>
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<div>by <strong>mandrakeduck</strong></div>
<div>What brand of dog boots did you buy?</div>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
<div><a href="http://www.dogbooties.com-/" target="_blank">www.dogbooties.com-</a>218-727-3121- Duluth, Minnesota- was told good company to do business with- go on their web it&#8217;ll tell you how to measure for the right ones- I choose the Black 1000 Denier large- we have hard ground no rocks- they are light and have stretch velcro that secures the top &#8211; I used duct tape over the velcro at first- stopped because that velcro really secures them- you can choose some different colors- actually- I called and they said their boots are used for dog sledding- if you saw the movie &#8220;Snow Dogs&#8221; the dogs had them on- so 8 with postage and handling cost me $26.00- nice folks and quick servicewhen I found out this field was a burr late this summer I needed something so I bought two sets of Scott&#8217;s Dog Boots, double layer Nylon, medium, orange- they are just now starting to get holes in the tips- other than that quite nice- $19.95 -I like the Dog Booties- going to order 8 more for the pups</p>
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<div>by <strong>ACooper</strong></div>
<div>Check these out they out last any other boots I have found yet.<a href="http://www.lcsupply.com/Product/Dog-Boots-Vests/Dog-Boots/Lewis-Dog-Boots1.html?utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=data-feed&amp;utm_campaign=google-shop" target="_blank">http://www.lcsupply.com/Product/Dog-Boo &#8230; oogle-shop</a></div>
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<div>by <strong>mandrakeduck</strong></div>
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<div>Check these out they out last any other boots I have found yet.</div>
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<p>Thanks for the link! I&#8217;ve purchased from Lion Country and saw those boots.</p>
<p>What kind of dog do you hunt with? I have German Shorthairs. I thought those boots would be cumbersome and SLOW her down. What has been your experience?</p>
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<div>by <strong>ACooper</strong></div>
<div>I run gsps, and dont have any issues with the boots slowing the dogs down. I use athletic pre wrap then use duct tape to hold the boots on. Just make sure you dont tape the boots to tight or the dogs feet will swell. I only run the boots when I am hunting in an area with lots of stickers etc.You can also try this and make your own, <a href="http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm" target="_blank">http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm</a>.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Ditch__Parrot</strong></div>
<div>Anybody have any experience with using boots in the snow and ice ?? I&#8217;ve seen mushers secret recomended before. Does it work? Anybody with first hand experience with it ??Sadie Marie doesn&#8217;t tolerate the snow and ice well at all. Don&#8217;t know why but I take the 2 out and Daisy will be in fine shape but Sadie will be bleeding from all four paws. Happened again today. She heels up quick and doesn&#8217;t really seem to notice it too much, but I do.With boots and such I worry about slipping and falling, sprains, strains, torn ligaments tendons and such more than anything.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ll double post this in health.</p>
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<div>by <strong>bossman</strong></div>
<div>Totally agree with Shadow. Just got back from 8 days of quail hunting in south Texas. Grass burrs were reported to be the worst in many years. On a recommendation from the ranch owner, bought several pair of boots from &#8220;dogbooties&#8221;. I bought the 500 denier cordura boots with the velstretch fastener. Best boots I&#8217;ve ever used. The grass burrs never slowed the dogs down.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
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<p>both have Dogbooties on- I don&#8217;t have to tape them- sure doesn&#8217;t seem to cause mine to slip or loose traction- the fit is loose and soft- I like them- most hunts are an hour or a bit more- these are the 1000- then I take them off and put them on the other two Britts for a like hunt</p>
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<div>by <strong>GrayDawg</strong></div>
<div>What he said&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; the PRE-WRAP is key !! The Nationals for GSP&#8217;s in Eureka, KS is loaded with shale which is brutal on a dog&#8217;s foot/pad&#8217;s. Remember, pre-wrap, pre-wrap, pre-wrap !!</p>
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<div><cite>ACooper wrote:</cite>I run gsps, and dont have any issues with the boots slowing the dogs down. I use athletic pre wrap then use duct tape to hold the boots on. Just make sure you dont tape the boots to tight or the dogs feet will swell. I only run the boots when I am hunting in an area with lots of stickers etc.You can also try this and make your own, <a href="http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm" target="_blank">http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm</a>.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Mike50</strong></div>
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<div><cite>Sadie__Marie wrote:</cite>Anybody have any experience with using boots in the snow and ice ?? I&#8217;ve seen mushers secret recomended before. Does it work? Anybody with first hand experience with it ??Sadie Marie doesn&#8217;t tolerate the snow and ice well at all. Don&#8217;t know why but I take the 2 out and Daisy will be in fine shape but Sadie will be bleeding from all four paws. Happened again today. She heels up quick and doesn&#8217;t really seem to notice it too much, but I do.With boots and such I worry about slipping and falling, sprains, strains, torn ligaments tendons and such more than anything.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ll double post this in health. Someone will probably tell me I need to change her diet</p>
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<p>Were are they bleeding from. M.S. just stops snow from building up between the pads. Does not protect were the nail enters the toe area.</p>
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<div>by <strong>ACooper</strong></div>
<div>Has anyone used the dog booties where there are sand burrs or goat heads? I like the Owens boots they are TOUGH, but I am always looking for something better.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
<div>Acooper- picture doesn&#8217;t show it but yes-</div>
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<div>by <strong>Ditch__Parrot</strong></div>
<div>Thanks</div>
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<div>by <strong>snips</strong></div>
<div>You can also make boots out of cut up intertube tires and duct tape.</div>
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<div>by <strong>ACooper</strong></div>
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<div><cite>snips wrote:</cite>You can also make boots out of cut up intertube tires and duct tape.</div>
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<p><a href="http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm" target="_blank">http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm</a>.</p>
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<div>by <strong>texscala</strong></div>
<div>Inner tubes and electrical tape for me. They are cheap, last all season, easy to carry and repair, and protect both in hot and cold conditions. Just make sure to condition your dog to them before you go hunting.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
<div>yep- nice pictures</div>
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<div>by <strong>dawgmama</strong></div>
<div>I make my own boots out of cordura that I purchase at the army surplus store. To keep the sand burr stickers out and help them wear longer, I dip them in Plasticoat, (I think that is the name). It is a liquid plastic that is usually used to coat the handles of tools. I find it at Menards, in the tool section. The plastic coating also helps with traction in mud and on snow.To keep the boots from falling off, we first wrap with Vetwrap on the dogs &#8216;ankle&#8217;, (not too tight!), then put the boot on, then wrap over the velcro with electrical tape (once again, not too tight!). We hardly ever loose a boot, hunting all day, and we always remove them at night!</div>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
<div>dawgmama- Plasticoat- never would have thought of that- I&#8217;ll look for some and try it out- going to buy some 1000 denier and make my own- my 1000 Dogbooties are nice- hard pack ground is rough on them- coating might do nicely- do you recoat/do they really stiffen up/crack- or do you make new after awhile</div>
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<div>by <strong>dawgmama</strong></div>
<div>Shadow, I usually do 2 coats, sometimes I dip them in a old tupperware container filled with Plasitcoat, and sometimes I use a sponge brush from the paint department and paint it on, paying special attention to the seams. I then let them dry propped up on a 2&#215;2 on newspaper. I usually don&#8217;t re-coat the boots, cause the dog&#8217;s nails tend to tear out the toe end, and since they are so cheap to make, I just throw them out. The Dogbooties look nice, but does that tubular shape flop around? I make mine more, um&#8230; kind of like a short, fat U shape, with velcro at the top. I&#8217;ve got it down to a science, assembly line like. I sew the loop side of the velcro on the front top, put the right sides together facing inside, with the loop side of the velcro inside so when I sew the seam, it gets sewn in, and I sew the seam twice. Then I turn right side out, and it is ready to coat with Plasitcoat.My husband teases me , that I will sew for the dogs, but not for him. I really, really dislike sewing otherwise.The best thing about the Plasticoat is that the sand burr spikes don&#8217;t go through and break off in the dogs pads like they used to before I started using it. I used to pick SD sand burr spikes out of their feet with a tweezers each night. The boots even hold up pretty well to wheat stubble. We once had a Wirehair have a wheat stubble stick go in the bottom and right out the top between her toes. Ouch! With the dog boots, they keep going, and going &#8230;&#8230;.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
<div>Thanks- that is pretty slick the way you made yours- Dogbooties do flop a bit- stay soft- and you are right- I have the same problem here with those sand burrs/boarsheadsthink I&#8217;ll buy material and make my own next time- going to look for plasticoat- sounds good</div>
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<h1>Rubber Dog Boots</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=21406" target="_blank">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=21406</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>jsc11700</strong></div>
<div>I am considereing ordering some rubber dog boots for my pointer. His pads are constantly getting cut up, even after using pad toughener and running him on concrete pre-season. I hunt extremely steep and rocky terrain for chukar in Oregon and my concern is that the rubber boots will hinder his balance and footing, but I have no other solution to keep the poor guy from being miserable after a hunt. Does anybody have any expereince using rubber dog boots? Also how can I get him used to wearing them without him thinking it is the end of the world? (He is a big Baby about stuff like this)</div>
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<div>by <strong>bobbaganoosh</strong></div>
<div>Have you considered using nylon dog shoes? They&#8217;re pretty tuff and the dog will have better grip with his feet (better balance) than with the rubber boots.</div>
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<div>by <strong>bmacinok</strong></div>
<div>They work well, they walk kind of funny when you put them on, but they get used to them. We like them as the sand, etc. will fall out of them when they pick up their feet, instead of it staying in the bottom of a normal boot and rubbing their pads. Here is how we make our boots:<a href="http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm" target="_blank">http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm</a>And a pic of the finished product:</p>
<p>bm</p>
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<div>by <strong>ACooper</strong></div>
<div>In my opinion the nylon boots are a waste of money as they do not seem to hold up to much punishment at all. Rubber boots are the way to go. I prefer Owens boots.</div>
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<div>by <strong>mcbosco</strong></div>
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<div><cite>ACooper wrote:</cite>In my opinion the nylon boots are a waste of money as they do not seem to hold up to much punishment at all. Rubber boots are the way to go. I prefer Owens boots.</div>
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<p>The nylon fabric type that are constructed like a sock? If so those do wear fast but they are good for rehabilitation. The really good kind are made by a company callled Ruffwear, but I don&#8217;t know how much JSC wants to spend. There are others that are similar to the Ruffwear boots. They are worth a try. I saw an agility dog using those and they looked like they would fall off but they worked great.</p>
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<div>by <strong>gonehuntin&#8217;</strong></div>
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<div><cite>bmacinok wrote:</cite>They work well, they walk kind of funny when you put them on, but they get used to them. We like them as the sand, etc. will fall out of them when they pick up their feet, instead of it staying in the bottom of a normal boot and rubbing their pads. Here is how we make our boots:<a href="http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm" target="_blank">http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm</a>And a pic of the finished product:</p>
<p>bm</p>
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<p>Problem I have with the tube boots is that they wear off all the hair on top of the dogs toes. A guy told me to put a baby sock on the dogs foot first and it would protect the toes. I&#8217;d personally just order the lewis boots.</p>
<p>I agree with AC, those cordura boots don&#8217;t last. I went through a set every two days in the Dakotas and that was only pheasant in the Dakotas, not chukar.</p>
<p>Another thing, I wouldn&#8217;t be conditioning my dog on concrete. Run him on gravel roads and you&#8217;ll end up with tougher pads.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
<div>just double over the motorcycle tube- duct tape- never have any trouble- except maybe moisture/sweatI&#8217;ve also got two sets of Scott&#8217;s Nylon Dog Boots &#8211; starting to show some wear but happy with their lasting this longplus- made a set for the pups out of old hunting pant legs</p>
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<h1>dog boots</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=11481" target="_blank">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=11481</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>CMJ76</strong></div>
<div>Hi, Does anyone know of any good dog boots ? I always have my GSP out hiking with me and some of the terrain is rocky. Just wondering if anyone has any good products they have used and that won&#8217;t fall off the dogs feet. Thank You</div>
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<div>by <strong>Chaingang</strong></div>
<div>Lewis Boots, not sure how they would work on rocky terrain though. : <a href="http://www.gundogsupply.com/dog-boots.html" target="_blank">http://www.gundogsupply.com/dog-boots.html</a>Ruffwear, some of the field trial people on this board have used these with good success. : <a href="http://www.ruffwear.com/grip_trex_dog_boots?sc=2&amp;category=11" target="_blank">http://www.ruffwear.com/grip_trex_dog_b &#8230; ategory=11</a></div>
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<div>by <strong>gwgdog66</strong></div>
<div>The Ruffwear are really good.</div>
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<h1>dog boot&#8217;s</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=15709" target="_blank">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=15709</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>docdavej</strong></div>
<div>I&#8217;m looking for dog boots for my lab&#8217;s; I bought a set of Redhead boots from bass pro and tried them out this weekend in the fields of eastern colorado. First the size was way off so I should have returned them and got the largest size despite ordering 3 1/2 XL&#8217;s for his 3 1/4 inch paws. I gave em a shot figuring some protection was better than pulling stickers out every 10 feet. Anyway&#8217;s those are junk, any better ideas? thanks</div>
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<div>by <strong>Chaingang</strong></div>
<div>I just tried some new boots last week for the first time. Normally my dogs never need them but whenever we hunt SW Nodak they always end up with tender feet by the second day so I decided to try these<a href="http://www.dogbooties.com/products/10dencorboot.html" target="_blank">http://www.dogbooties.com/products/10dencorboot.html</a>Their cheap ($2.50 a piece) so order a few extra in case they throw one. They seemed to hold up fairly well to the rugged terrain. Not sure I would get more than a season&#8217;s worth of use out of them but like I said there cheap. I use vetrap and athletic tape to secure them and didn&#8217;t have a dog throw a boot all 4 days.My other choice was going to be Ultra Paws rugged boot until I found the ones mentioned previously. No experience with these but look like they would hold up well. <a href="http://www.ultrapaws.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&amp;Product_Code=303R" target="_blank">http://www.ultrapaws.com/Merchant2/merc &#8230; _Code=303R</a></p>
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<div>by <strong>Wilber</strong></div>
<div>I&#8217;ve been cursing those sand burrs in eastern Colorado for years. This year seems to be particularly bad. I&#8217;ve used several different kinds of boots on my retriever and setter. I tried the black rubber Lewis Boots this year and like them a lot. They have grip which is a plus for the dogs. The trick is apparently to put vet wrap around the ankle under the boot cuff and then tape the boot over it. They&#8217;ve worked great for me. Haven&#8217;t lost one yet, but snow will be the real test. Hope we get some this year.Good luck.</div>
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<div>by <strong>nsavaglio</strong></div>
<div><a href="http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0005402615911a&amp;type=product&amp;cmCat=SEARCHFEAT_all&amp;returnPage=search-results1.jsp&amp;Ntk=Products&amp;QueryText=deluxe+dog+boot&amp;sort=all&amp;_D%3AhasJS=+&amp;N=0&amp;Nty=1&amp;hasJS=true&amp;_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form23&amp;_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1" target="_blank">http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ &#8230; ISO-8859-1</a>Well worth it&#8230;you get what you pay for.</div>
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<div>by <strong>ceadmin</strong></div>
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<div><cite>nsavaglio wrote:</cite><a href="http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0005402615911a&amp;type=product&amp;cmCat=SEARCHFEAT_all&amp;returnPage=search-results1.jsp&amp;Ntk=Products&amp;QueryText=deluxe+dog+boot&amp;sort=all&amp;_D%3AhasJS=+&amp;N=0&amp;Nty=1&amp;hasJS=true&amp;_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form23&amp;_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1" target="_blank">http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0005402615911a&amp;type=product&amp;cmCat=SEARCHFEAT_all&amp;returnPage=search-results1.jsp&amp;Ntk=Products&amp;QueryText=deluxe+dog+boot&amp;sort=all&amp;_D%3AhasJS=+&amp;N=0&amp;Nty=1&amp;hasJS=true&amp;_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form23&amp;_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1</a>Well worth it&#8230;you get what you pay for.</div>
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<p>This is what I have as well. Make sure to tighten them well enough, especially the front ones so they don&#8217;t throw one.</p>
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<div>by <strong>tommyboy72</strong></div>
<div>Not sure if you ever found any last season but I like these. I have some of the Lewis dog boots that come from right here in Oklahoma. A friend of mine got them for me because he knows the owner of Lewis&#8217; Dog Boot Shop since he lives in Enid but the dog doesn&#8217;t care much for the solid rubber construction and they are about $30 for a set but they are tough.<a href="http://www.jimsdogboots.com/" target="_blank">http://www.jimsdogboots.com/</a></div>
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<div>by <strong>cheetome</strong></div>
<div>I&#8217;m not sure where I read this &#8220;Gun Dog magazine&#8221; I think. The article was all about dog boots and how frustrating it is when a dog throws a boot when sets cost $30 or more. Anyway the author would just go buy bike inner tubes and make his own boots. He would cut small slits for toenails and tape them on. I never use boots so I have not tried them. Sounded good though, and cheap. I always keep the magazines that have the articles like this. I will flip through and see if I can find the article. If I do I&#8217;ll try to post it for you.</div>
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<div>by <strong>bmacinok</strong></div>
<div>We get lots of sand burs in Oklahoma, and this is about the best boot you can use. It leaves the bottom open to allow the sand, etc. to fall out but closes up when the dog steps down. And if you lose some they are cheap to make.bm<a href="http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm" target="_blank">http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm</a></p>
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<h1>Sliped pads</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=88&amp;t=2133" target="_blank">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=88&amp;t=2133</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>Casper</strong></div>
<div>When a dog slips pads what should be done? Do I need to just keep the area clean and keep him off his feet?It isnt real bad I picked him up as soon as I noticed he was &#8220;bleep&#8221; footing around. They didnt bleed much just scraped off the coarse part of the pad. He is not licking them and since he spent the rest of the day in his crate they actually look pretty good better then I originaly thought.He thought it would be great fun to barrel off a mountain chasing a covey of 80-100 chukars</p>
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<div>by <strong>Wagonmaster</strong></div>
<div>best thing is to keep him off his feet and keep them clean. we sometimes use EMT gel on them, but many dogs will lick it off. it is not waterproof. it does not appear to stain things, though. have heard some people use super glue, but have not tried it myself.</div>
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<div>by <strong>markj</strong></div>
<div>suoer glue works but I dont use it much, the Doc used it to close up a cut in my lip last year. Went thru to the teeth.I was at the new Bass Pro shop and saw dog boots made out of leather. Maybe these would help?Another thing to try, a liquid I find at bowling shops, nu skin? or something like it.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Wagonmaster</strong></div>
<div>i find the boots don&#8217;t help much if a dog has just slipped a pad. the pad just gets aggravated inside the boot. pads heal quickly though. boots do help once the pad has sealed up and while it still needs protection because it is building up new pad material. we use Ruff Wear boots, there are some other good ones. a serviceable boot can be made just by cutting a bicycle inner tube of sufficient diameter, slipping it over the foot, and taping it on with duct tape. the bottom end is just left open. it needs to be long enough to cover the pad obviously, and also you need a large diameter tube for most dogs. the skinny little things for racing bikes would not work.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Bird Dog 67</strong></div>
<div>Keep him off his feet and disclose the location of this covery as quickly as possible for best results!!!</div>
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<h1>Sore Feet / Frozen Soybean Stalks?</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=88&amp;t=2243" target="_blank">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=88&amp;t=2243</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>Greg Jennings</strong></div>
<div>All,Was out for over four hours yesterday. We had 1/4&#8243; of deep-frozen ice out there.My boys&#8217; feet were sore with some bloody scrapes at the end of the day.</p>
<p>The only thing that I saw that could have caused it was frozen soybean stalks. They looked like pungi stakes.</p>
<p>Has anyone else had this experience? I&#8217;m new to frozen conditions and have never seen it before.</p>
<p>Best regards,</p>
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<div>by <strong>AHGSP</strong></div>
<div>Morning Greg,Believe it or not, the ice alone is quite sharp and abrasive on a dogs feet, but I would say the soybean stalks could do some damage as well. I don&#8217;t have too much of a problem with this, as I rotate my dogs constantly, so I can&#8217;t say whether a product like &#8220;Tuff Foot&#8221; might help or not. You might try some dog boots. I run my pups in the Grouse woods on some pretty steep WV and MD terrain with lots of rocks, blowdowns, treetops and brush in the snow and ice in the late season and have never had too much of a problem, but they are also conditioned in this type of terrain all year long. Sorry I can&#8217;t be of more help.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Wagonmaster</strong></div>
<div>being from Minnesota, I have of course hunted them in all kinds of winter conditions. not just here in Minn., but down in IA and out in ND. IA is the worst because of the brutal winds.generally, it is better to do nothing and just let them heal up. a little vaseline on the pads and between the toes helps to prevent the build-up of ice balls, which can cut their feet.boots help some. i personally hate them because many dogs just do not want to run in them. but i have used them when necessary. you do have to tape them to the leg or otherwise make sure they are closed at the top. snow will get into any opening and pack the boots up, creating a worse situation than just letting the dogs run au naturale, and letting them deal with their feet themselves. they will pick ice balls out of their pads when they become a nuisance.</p>
<p>Cabela&#8217;s is carrying a boot that i just bought that looks promising. it has a nylon foot, and a neoprene ankle with two velcro straps that look like they would close the neoprene up pretty well. i have not tried it yet.</p>
<p>they biggest issue, though, is not the feet, but the underbody. females are susceptible to frozen and damaged nipples, males to damage to their parts. i tried several chest protectors and was not happy with any of them. the ones that worked to prevent damage to the chest, usually had a strap of some kind behind the neck, and another one back on the body somewhere. the dog&#8217;s running motion would cause fairly bad chafeing at the strap behind the neck. i eventually experimented with the Cabela&#8217;s neoprene vest, that zips up to enclose the dog&#8217;s entire chest and back. the one i have is a fairly snug fit on my dogs. it did away with any chest damage, and did not chafe. i have not found a great solution for boy dogs however. they are susceptible to ice forming on their parts. but seem to know when to stop and clean it off themselves.</p>
<p>as i mentioned, aside from the neoprene vest which seems to work well, i generally leave everything else uncovered and let the dogs take care of it. cuts, nicks and abrasions can be treated with EMT gel after the hunt.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Greg Jennings</strong></div>
<div>The boys have been running on that very same field 30 minutes x 2 per week for quite a while.I&#8217;ll dress their feet this evening. They&#8217;re sore. My tough as rail-road spikes GSP didn&#8217;t want to go into frozen grass this a.m. to do his business.OTOH, I just called home to check on a sick kid and the boys were raising a rucus in the background. I guess the two doses of low-strength aspirin have done the trick.</p>
<p>Best,</p>
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<div>by <strong>ezzy333</strong></div>
<div>Greg,Welcome to the great frozen midwest.It would be my guess that the soybean stubble was not the problem but it was the snow and ice. The stubble wouldn&#8217;t be any worse in the snow and ice than it was before. Where I find the biggest problem is where they have mowed stips in Switch Grass. That stubble is like walking on pins and needles. Dogs don&#8217;t like it and I even run one through the sole of a new pair of shoes.</p>
<p>I recommend the vasoline. Its not a cure all but does help.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
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<div>by <strong>Greg Jennings</strong></div>
<div>Thank you, all. I appreciate it.Rumor is that it&#8217;s going to be *way* nasty later this week and I&#8217;ll get to experience the joy of hunting in a frozen trundra again this weekend. Actually, I&#8217;ll be training, so it won&#8217;t be as bad as I&#8217;ll only be out for a couple of hours.Another interesting thing I noticed, btw, was that a complete coating of thick ice made the tough briars a breeze. Not applicable to the thorn bushes, however.</p>
<p>Best,</p>
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<div>by <strong>Wagonmaster</strong></div>
<div>Get a couple tubes of EMT Gel, or I see they now have a spray version.BTW, batteries do not do well in low temps. This goes for collar batteries, both tracking collar and ecollar. Do not expect alot of runtime out of either of them.My Pro 500 (old style, not the G2), would give me about 2/3rds of a days use last year, being in and out of the car and getting warmed up once in awhile. You might get as little as an hour or two continuous running in very cold temps, but probably more like 3 or 4, you just never know. Have only had a tracking collar as of this summer, so have not had a chance to evaluate that for cold weather battery life, but I would think it might be pretty short in single digit temps or lower, because those batteries are very small.</p>
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<h1>Use Baby Socks and Duck Tape?</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=81&amp;t=21855" target="_blank">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=81&amp;t=21855</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>mandrakeduck</strong></div>
<div>I expect to get some sarcasim on this post. So fire awayBut&#8230;. does anyone use baby socks and duck tape for dog boots? A long time ago I read a post where someone used this. They claimed that this technique kept dirt and small rocks from getting into the boots.My dog came down with sore feet last weekend while we were on vacation and I put baby socks and duck tape on her feet. It worked well except, the duck tape got mangled during the hunt.</p>
<p>If you use this technique, how do you apply the duck tape so that it last the whole hunt?</p>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
<div>I didn&#8217;t use baby socks but- first time down here quite some time ago we hit a field full of sand burss-<br />
took a regular pair of socks, cut in 1/2, put them over a foot, completely wrapped in duct tape- lasted 1/2 a day- but we weren&#8217;t in rocks<br />
depending on the ground duct tape will last only so longnow I make my own out of heavy brush pants- the extra heavy front of the legs, and tape the tops-<br />
other than that- I bougth 8 dog boots for $2.50 each- like them quite a bit</div>
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<div>by <strong>mandrakeduck</strong></div>
<div>What brand of dog boots did you buy?</div>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
<div><a href="http://www.dogbooties.com-/" target="_blank">www.dogbooties.com-</a>218-727-3121- Duluth, Minnesota- was told good company to do business with- go on their web it&#8217;ll tell you how to measure for the right ones- I choose the Black 1000 Denier large- we have hard ground no rocks- they are light and have stretch velcro that secures the top &#8211; I used duct tape over the velcro at first- stopped because that velcro really secures them- you can choose some different colors- actually- I called and they said their boots are used for dog sledding- if you saw the movie &#8220;Snow Dogs&#8221; the dogs had them on- so 8 with postage and handling cost me $26.00- nice folks and quick servicewhen I found out this field was a burr late this summer I needed something so I bought two sets of Scott&#8217;s Dog Boots, double layer Nylon, medium, orange- they are just now starting to get holes in the tips- other than that quite nice- $19.95 -I like the Dog Booties- going to order 8 more for the pups</p>
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<div>by <strong>ACooper</strong></div>
<div>Check these out they out last any other boots I have found yet.<a href="http://www.lcsupply.com/Product/Dog-Boots-Vests/Dog-Boots/Lewis-Dog-Boots1.html?utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=data-feed&amp;utm_campaign=google-shop" target="_blank">http://www.lcsupply.com/Product/Dog-Boo &#8230; oogle-shop</a></div>
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<div>by <strong>mandrakeduck</strong></div>
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<blockquote>
<div>Check these out they out last any other boots I have found yet.</div>
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<p>Thanks for the link! I&#8217;ve purchased from Lion Country and saw those boots.</p>
<p>What kind of dog do you hunt with? I have German Shorthairs. I thought those boots would be cumbersome and SLOW her down. What has been your experience?</p>
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<div>by <strong>ACooper</strong></div>
<div>I run gsps, and dont have any issues with the boots slowing the dogs down. I use athletic pre wrap then use duct tape to hold the boots on. Just make sure you dont tape the boots to tight or the dogs feet will swell. I only run the boots when I am hunting in an area with lots of stickers etc.You can also try this and make your own, <a href="http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm" target="_blank">http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm</a>.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Ditch__Parrot</strong></div>
<div>Anybody have any experience with using boots in the snow and ice ?? I&#8217;ve seen mushers secret recomended before. Does it work? Anybody with first hand experience with it ??Sadie Marie doesn&#8217;t tolerate the snow and ice well at all. Don&#8217;t know why but I take the 2 out and Daisy will be in fine shape but Sadie will be bleeding from all four paws. Happened again today. She heels up quick and doesn&#8217;t really seem to notice it too much, but I do.With boots and such I worry about slipping and falling, sprains, strains, torn ligaments tendons and such more than anything.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ll double post this in health.</p>
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<div>by <strong>bossman</strong></div>
<div>Totally agree with Shadow. Just got back from 8 days of quail hunting in south Texas. Grass burrs were reported to be the worst in many years. On a recommendation from the ranch owner, bought several pair of boots from &#8220;dogbooties&#8221;. I bought the 500 denier cordura boots with the velstretch fastener. Best boots I&#8217;ve ever used. The grass burrs never slowed the dogs down.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
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<p>both have Dogbooties on- I don&#8217;t have to tape them- sure doesn&#8217;t seem to cause mine to slip or loose traction- the fit is loose and soft- I like them- most hunts are an hour or a bit more- these are the 1000- then I take them off and put them on the other two Britts for a like hunt</p>
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<div>by <strong>GrayDawg</strong></div>
<div>What he said&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; the PRE-WRAP is key !! The Nationals for GSP&#8217;s in Eureka, KS is loaded with shale which is brutal on a dog&#8217;s foot/pad&#8217;s. Remember, pre-wrap, pre-wrap, pre-wrap !!</p>
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<div><cite>ACooper wrote:</cite>I run gsps, and dont have any issues with the boots slowing the dogs down. I use athletic pre wrap then use duct tape to hold the boots on. Just make sure you dont tape the boots to tight or the dogs feet will swell. I only run the boots when I am hunting in an area with lots of stickers etc.You can also try this and make your own, <a href="http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm" target="_blank">http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm</a>.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Mike50</strong></div>
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<div><cite>Sadie__Marie wrote:</cite>Anybody have any experience with using boots in the snow and ice ?? I&#8217;ve seen mushers secret recomended before. Does it work? Anybody with first hand experience with it ??Sadie Marie doesn&#8217;t tolerate the snow and ice well at all. Don&#8217;t know why but I take the 2 out and Daisy will be in fine shape but Sadie will be bleeding from all four paws. Happened again today. She heels up quick and doesn&#8217;t really seem to notice it too much, but I do.With boots and such I worry about slipping and falling, sprains, strains, torn ligaments tendons and such more than anything.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ll double post this in health. Someone will probably tell me I need to change her diet</p>
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<p>Were are they bleeding from. M.S. just stops snow from building up between the pads. Does not protect were the nail enters the toe area.</p>
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<div>by <strong>ACooper</strong></div>
<div>Has anyone used the dog booties where there are sand burrs or goat heads? I like the Owens boots they are TOUGH, but I am always looking for something better.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
<div>Acooper- picture doesn&#8217;t show it but yes-</div>
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<div>by <strong>Ditch__Parrot</strong></div>
<div>Thanks</div>
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<div>by <strong>snips</strong></div>
<div>You can also make boots out of cut up intertube tires and duct tape.</div>
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<div>by <strong>ACooper</strong></div>
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<div><cite>snips wrote:</cite>You can also make boots out of cut up intertube tires and duct tape.</div>
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<p><a href="http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm" target="_blank">http://www.oknavhda.com/boots.htm</a>.</p>
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<div>by <strong>texscala</strong></div>
<div>Inner tubes and electrical tape for me. They are cheap, last all season, easy to carry and repair, and protect both in hot and cold conditions. Just make sure to condition your dog to them before you go hunting.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
<div>yep- nice pictures</div>
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<div>by <strong>dawgmama</strong></div>
<div>I make my own boots out of cordura that I purchase at the army surplus store. To keep the sand burr stickers out and help them wear longer, I dip them in Plasticoat, (I think that is the name). It is a liquid plastic that is usually used to coat the handles of tools. I find it at Menards, in the tool section. The plastic coating also helps with traction in mud and on snow.To keep the boots from falling off, we first wrap with Vetwrap on the dogs &#8216;ankle&#8217;, (not too tight!), then put the boot on, then wrap over the velcro with electrical tape (once again, not too tight!). We hardly ever loose a boot, hunting all day, and we always remove them at night!</div>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
<div>dawgmama- Plasticoat- never would have thought of that- I&#8217;ll look for some and try it out- going to buy some 1000 denier and make my own- my 1000 Dogbooties are nice- hard pack ground is rough on them- coating might do nicely- do you recoat/do they really stiffen up/crack- or do you make new after awhile</div>
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<div>by <strong>dawgmama</strong></div>
<div>Shadow, I usually do 2 coats, sometimes I dip them in a old tupperware container filled with Plasitcoat, and sometimes I use a sponge brush from the paint department and paint it on, paying special attention to the seams. I then let them dry propped up on a 2&#215;2 on newspaper. I usually don&#8217;t re-coat the boots, cause the dog&#8217;s nails tend to tear out the toe end, and since they are so cheap to make, I just throw them out. The Dogbooties look nice, but does that tubular shape flop around? I make mine more, um&#8230; kind of like a short, fat U shape, with velcro at the top. I&#8217;ve got it down to a science, assembly line like. I sew the loop side of the velcro on the front top, put the right sides together facing inside, with the loop side of the velcro inside so when I sew the seam, it gets sewn in, and I sew the seam twice. Then I turn right side out, and it is ready to coat with Plasitcoat.My husband teases me , that I will sew for the dogs, but not for him. I really, really dislike sewing otherwise.The best thing about the Plasticoat is that the sand burr spikes don&#8217;t go through and break off in the dogs pads like they used to before I started using it. I used to pick SD sand burr spikes out of their feet with a tweezers each night. The boots even hold up pretty well to wheat stubble. We once had a Wirehair have a wheat stubble stick go in the bottom and right out the top between her toes. Ouch! With the dog boots, they keep going, and going &#8230;&#8230;.</p>
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<div>by <strong>Shadow</strong></div>
<div>Thanks- that is pretty slick the way you made yours- Dogbooties do flop a bit- stay soft- and you are right- I have the same problem here with those sand burrs/boarsheadsthink I&#8217;ll buy material and make my own next time- going to look for plasticoat- sounds good</div>
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<h1>Hunting Boot Battle</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=23613" target="_blank">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=23613</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>KY Grouse Hunter</strong></div>
<div>Guys&#8230; Ive had it. I cant go on until I find the right match for me. I am a serious&#8230; serious grouse hunter. And where I live&#8230; briars are the habitat of choice. With all that said, i go though a pair of hunting boots just about every season or two and its time to get a pair of boots that will fit my criteria, with stand the elements, and last a while. I need boots that are light, somewhat insulated, have some sort of briar &#8220;fighting power&#8221;, waterproof, and good tread. Im to the point to where Ill spend good money on a pair but would like to keep it to some sort of minmum. Any suggestions or help?</div>
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<div>by <strong>Casper</strong></div>
<div>I know nothing about hunting in the type of conditions you have but out west the rave has been on the Meindl brand of boots. You can shop for them at Cabelas. They are a spendy boot but folks seem to be very happy with them. I think I will give em a try this year as I end up in similar situations as you and go through a pair every year.</div>
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<div>by <strong>TAK</strong></div>
<div>I am lucky to make it through a year with boots! If your getting dang near 2 I would be happy!</div>
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<div>by <strong>bwjohn</strong></div>
<div>I grew up in S W VA, probably not far from where you are hunting, with the same type of covers. I was actually only a couple of miles from the KY border. I used a pair of Cordura boots for years that had a gortex liner in them. Probably used them past their prime, but I loved those boots, still have them, but need to be resoled.I think the Cordura handles the briars well, their gortex and have vibram soles.Then negatives are they are not the best support. You could get a nice insert from a hiking store or something like that, would probably drastically improve the walking performance.</p>
<p>I have since moved to utah, I have a pair of Miendl&#8217;s. I am on my second pair, the first pair I bought came apart at the sole after having them for 3 months. I think more of a manufacturing defect. I really like the boots, time will tell. But they are a much more sturdy walking boot and good so far in some of the rocky areas that I get into out here.</p>
<p>nothing beats trying on the boots, it is hard to buy from online. Don&#8217;t think there is a Cabelas near you.</p>
<p>Don&#8217;t forget to look at a good hiking store, there are some real good hiking boots that can really work well for bird hunting and long walks in the woods.</p>
<p>good luck in the search<br />
brandon</p>
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<div>by <strong>mcbosco</strong></div>
<div>I don&#8217;t like to buy things like boots unless there is a 100% unconditional guaranty for the life of the item. Here in the soggy Northeast I don&#8217;t think there is a better boot than the classic Maine-style boot from LL Bean. I have 4 pairs, two as old as 20 years that have been re-soled at least twice each.I could send any of them back for a complete refund, with no questions asked except where to send the check or which CC to credit. Beans also has a good selection of other boots with the same guaranty.The Filson boot is great too and same type of guaranty.</p>
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<div>by <strong>lvrgsp</strong></div>
<div>I&#8217;d look at a few of these, not the cheapest boot on the market.<br />
I&#8217;ll venture to say my next purchase I am going to head up to Berlin, Wisconsin and stop by Russell and have them make my next pair, or if your lucky enough I believe they have a few pair of odd or new returns sitting in the shop&#8230;.may want to give them a call.<br />
I like the looks of their insulated bird shooter boots&#8230;.like I said not the cheapest, but there again they are custom making them for your feet.<br />
I have had a pair of Irish Setters now for over 3 years of alot of abuse&#8230;.light weight, waterproof, comfort is ok, not the best soles IMO, but I need a good stiff sole for a bad toe I have, and these seem to have to much flex for me, something most folks want&#8230;Just a thought,<a href="http://www.irishsetterboots.com/upland" target="_blank">http://www.irishsetterboots.com/upland</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.chippewaboots.com/boots/upland/24716" target="_blank">http://www.chippewaboots.com/boots/upland/24716</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.russellmoccasin.com/boots_traditional/traditional_insbirdshooter.html" target="_blank">http://www.russellmoccasin.com/boots_tr &#8230; ooter.html</a></p>
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<div>by <strong>jimbo&amp;rooster</strong></div>
<div>Ive got a pair of the irish setter upland boots and I love them. I have had them about 18mos. they are as light as some of my tennis shoes. I put alot of miles on these boots hunting through farm country mostly briars and sticks to tear at them not much in the way of rocks. i have owned several pairs of Irish Setter, and red wing boots with no complaints.<br />
jim</div>
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<div>by <strong>RoosterBuster</strong></div>
<div>I got a pair of Avery&#8217;s for a friends GSP and they lasted about 1/2 mile&#8230;.after that they came off and were shot.</div>
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<div>by <strong>GSPlover</strong></div>
<div>I have trouble finding boots that wont hurt feet and leave blisters. I walk milles and miles every year and the best boot Ive found is the Danner Pronghorn non-insulated. They are comfortable, have never hurt my feet and have never leaked. The pair I have now is 2 years old and still in good shape. Though I will be getting a new pair soon.</div>
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<div>by <strong>fishvik</strong></div>
<div>Deleted</div>
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<div>by <strong>fishvik</strong></div>
<div>The best boots I ever owned were White Smokejumpers. I worked for over 30 years with my primary duties in resource management and wildland fire involving hiking over various terrain from wet coniferous forest to dry sagebrush steppe on some of the steepest slope in the US. Those boots held up to everything I threw at them. I had both pairs rebuilt 3 times. Along with working in them I also used them for upland bird and big game hunting. They were the most comfortable, support giving boot I&#8217;ve owned. They are a bit on the heavy side and they are spendy (about $300 dollars now off the self and more if you get them built at the Spokane factory) but if you spend alot of time on your feet in the field they are worth it. They are all leather, uninsulated with lug soles and have to be greased to repel water. Just my humble opinion.</div>
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<div>by <strong>RoosterBuster</strong></div>
<div>i&#8217;m an idiot, I was thinking dog boots. haha.</div>
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<div>by <strong>JakeDD</strong></div>
<div>This issue has come up for me every year for the last 10 yrs or so. I had an old pair of Rocky Cornstalkers that were, frankly, the best &#8220;bleep&#8221; boots I&#8217;ve ever owned. Put tons of miles on those things over their 13 yr career til the sole literally crumbled on them. They didn&#8217;t leak a drop, even to the bitter end. I tried replacing with a newer pair of Cornstalkers and they just didn&#8217;t fit right, quality was marginal, and seemed really heavy. I still have them as a backup, but not pleased with them, though they do keep the water out. Decided to try some Danner Elk Hunter (or Elk Ridge) boots a couple yrs ago and was royally disappointed in them. Comfortable right out of the box, but leaked like a sieve and looked 10 yrs old after 1 day of hunting.This year I&#8217;m considering a pair of Meindls, Red Wings, or Irish Setters. I see Danner is now doing some military boots which looks interesting to me, but I&#8217;m still gunshy after my last experience.</div>
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<div>by <strong>lvrgsp</strong></div>
<div>I can say if and that&#8217;s a big if, danner is making the military boots they made 15 to 20 years ago, they were a very impressive boot, extremely durable, and waterproof, very comfortable, but pretty heavy as well&#8230;.That IMO was the best boot Danner made, and also IMO unless there made the same the Danners of now are far more inferior than they were then&#8230;.JMO.<br />
I have Irish Setters and RedWings, IMO Irish Setters are an ok boot, but the Red Wings are quite a bit better, a bit heavier and a stiffer sole but for me that is what I prefer&#8230;.The Irish Setters were extremely comfortable, ok on waterproof, and ok on durability, the soles on the IS are poorly built, and cracked relatively quick&#8230;..<br />
I wear boots on avg, 25-28 days/month and anywhere from 10-16hrs a day, from Railroad work to Farm work to Hunting I put a pair of boots through the ringer, and so far the Red Wings have been pretty good going on there second year, not as good as they once were IMO but still a good boot.<br />
I just got my Russell Boot catalog, and when my RedWings go, I&#8217;ll run up to Wisconsin and have a pair made&#8230;Chip</div>
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<div>by <strong>JakeDD</strong></div>
<div>Chip &#8211; how long was the break-in period on your Redwings? I also like stiffer soles, but have a pair of lace-up cowboy boots I&#8217;ve been breaking in for months and they&#8217;re killing me!</div>
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<div>by <strong>lvrgsp</strong></div>
<div>Jake,<br />
I have 3 pair of redwings right now, one pair of lace up 400 gram thinsulated hunting boots, and they have a deeper lug sole and are extremely comfortable, with if I remember correctly maybe a week break in at most. Thew second pair are pull on&#8217;s and they took a bit to break in, maybe a good month or two so before they started to feel right, but they are pretty comfortable right now, the soles on those are a bit softer. The third pair I just bought are lace up, non insulated, similiar sole as the pull ons and were good about 2 days out of the box&#8230;&#8230;I also still have a pair of Irish Setters I bought about 3 years or so ago, that have a more flexible sole but they are extremely lightweight cordura and leather, and were good out of the box as well.<br />
I find as many probably have, for me just as if not more important are socks&#8230;..the good ole white cotton socks just do not cut it for me unless Im wearing shoes, I have become real fond of the smart wool socks and I wear them year round anymore, they make them in varying weights for different temps through the year&#8230;&#8230;</div>
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<div>by <strong>JakeDD</strong></div>
<div>Smartwool = smart choice! Big fan of them as well. Think I will look into the Redwings and Russells more this year.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Deets</strong></div>
<div>The guys that buy $300 boots may balk at this post, but I like to use desert combat boots. These boots are lightweight, comfortable, and very rugged. My feet are perpetually hot so I use the hot weather boots that have vents on them. I also have a pair of insulated gortex combat boots I wear in the snow. I hunt in eastern colorado and walk alot of CRP, corn, and wheat stubble. My last pair of boots lasted 2 seasons, and that was after 2 years of Army service. The best part is that you can pick up a pair at the surplus store for about $60.</div>
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<div>by <strong>lvrgsp</strong></div>
<div>Yea the desert issued boots I got over in the big sand box were pretty good, after I got out and they wore out I never got another pair for some reason&#8230;actually I think I might still have my old jump boots&#8230;.<br />
The insulated winter boots you have are they made by Danner? Stationed in europe for 2 years and those were some really good boots to have, a bit heavy but comfortable and warm and extremely durable&#8230;.</div>
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<h1>Dog Boots</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=8468" target="_blank">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&amp;t=8468</a></h2>
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<div>by <strong>Hamilton</strong></div>
<div>What kind do you own and how do you like them?I am planning on buying boots for my Brittany for hunting in cactus country (which there is a lot of in Southern California). I see there are many different types, Rubber, Cordura, Neoprene, Tape-on, Velcro, Straps, etc… There is nothing like first hand experience, so I was wondering if you could share yours with me.Thanks,</p>
<p>Hamilton</p>
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<div>by <strong>Wagonmaster</strong></div>
<div>Ruffwear, new style. You need to put them on properly. Vetwrap from the back of the foot up the ankle. Then duct tape the boot on securely. Remove as soon as you are done running the dog. The new style boots have a very thick sole, and the sole has a pattern to it that grips the ground. Most boots are useless in ground cactus, the spines just go right through stuff like neoprene or thin rubber. The grip on the new style soles helps the dogs alot, flat or nongrip soles slip constantly on the ground.All the dogs that run in the R8 and Hun Championships are booted with these boots, and these are hour championship dogs that really put alot of pressure on the boots. They work.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Terry</strong></div>
<div>I do the same thing as wagonmaster.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Hamilton</strong></div>
<div>What is &#8220;Vetwrap&#8221;?</div>
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<div>by <strong>Terry</strong></div>
<div>It is kind of like a disposable ace bandage. It sticks to itself real well, but not like tape, and is wonderful for all kinds of stuff with cows and horses, etc. See pic below. Feed stores usually carry it cheapest.</div>
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<div>by <strong>gonehuntin&#8217;</strong></div>
<div>As Terry said, vet wrap sticks to itself, not the dog. It allows you to tape the dog&#8217;s feet, cover that with duct tape, then take the whole mess off with no discomfort to the dog. Pink is for wimps.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Terry</strong></div>
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<blockquote>
<div><cite>gonehuntin&#8217; wrote:</cite>Pink is for wimps.</div>
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<p>Agreed</p>
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<div>by <strong>Wagonmaster</strong></div>
<div>Hey, only real men can wear pink and pull it off.</div>
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<div>by <strong>Terry</strong></div>
<div>That&#8217;s what they all say&#8230;</div>
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<div>by <strong>Hamilton</strong></div>
<div>Thanks Guys,Any more comments on the boots to buy or do you all agree that the Ruffwear boots are the way to go?- Hamilton</p>
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<div>by <strong>gwgdog66</strong></div>
<div>I&#8217;ve been using the cheapest regular cordura nylon boots I could find. Wet grass and sand don&#8217;t let the velcro work very well, and I always manage to come up short one at the end of the day. Definately use the vet wrap and tape them on. I may have to try a pair of these Ruffwear boots this year.</div>
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<div>by <strong>basspow</strong></div>
<div>what about the motorcycle intertube boots. they work just fine,once you get them taped on.</div>
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<div>by <strong>gwgdog66</strong></div>
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<div><cite>basspow wrote:</cite>what about the motorcycle intertube boots. they work just fine,once you get them taped on.</div>
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<p>That was the first thing I tried. I seen the artical in PDJ. The open toe still let stickers get in. Other than that they are cheap and worked well. Not to mention Wiggles (The female on the left) chewed them off first chance she got</p>
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<div>by <strong>Hightailsetters</strong></div>
<div>I liked the old Baker Boots out of Oklahoma. They have not been made for around 15-20 yrs now. I do have a friend out in OK. that makes them and sells them on the side. If you would like a pair feel free to e-mail me and I&#8217;ll pass along his e-mailHTS</div>
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		<title>Pigeon Coops</title>
		<link>http://gundogforum.com/blog/2010/pigeon-coops</link>
		<comments>http://gundogforum.com/blog/2010/pigeon-coops#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Dec 2010 00:19:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
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		<category><![CDATA[Pigeons]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[just got my new pigeons in the new pigeon coop&#8230; http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&#38;t=20006 by  PhillipTaylor and my 10 month old pup is going crazy! Sitting underneath barking non-stop, standing up on his hind two legs sniffing through the cracks in the wood &#8230; <a href="http://gundogforum.com/blog/2010/pigeon-coops">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h1>just got my new pigeons in the new pigeon coop&#8230;</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=20006">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=20006</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> PhillipTaylor</strong> and my 10 month old pup is going crazy! Sitting underneath barking non-stop, standing up on his hind two legs sniffing through the cracks in the wood in the coop and jumping up underneath and banging his head in the wire beneath the coop. The birds are pretty smart- they are trying to hide fom him. I guess I&#8217;ll have to put up some latice around the legs of the coop to keep him from having too much access plus it will keep him from getting pooped on. I love seeing him so worked up!</p>
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by  <strong> fishvik</strong> Other than the color of the dog and the openess of the yard this could be a reprint of my 16 month old GSP and our pigeon coop. My Hanna checks out the pigeons every morning as soon as I let her out.</p>
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by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> It&#8217;s like a big screen TV for dogs and certainly quality entertainment!!!</p>
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by  <strong> PhillipTaylor</strong> I woke up this morning to find that he had dug almost all the way under the latice I put up yesterday and there were big muddy paw prints on all four sides of the coop as high as he could reach. I am glad he is interested in birds but for those of you who have pigeon coops and don&#8217;t keep your dogs kenneled all day, do yours do this too or will he stop at some point?</p>
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by  <strong> mountaindogs</strong> I think your coop needs to be away from the dog. You left the dog in the yard overnight with a pigeon coop nearby? I worried about keeping the dogs near the coop but that is really near. If you have to keep that set up, can you put a kennel around the coop and line it with concrete pavers on the bottom? Still I think you are just a accident away from getting your birds killed or liberated</p>
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<h1>Exceptional Shorthair Gundog Litter</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=58&amp;t=14754">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=58&amp;t=14754</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> AHGSP</strong> I am posting this for friends, Mike and Renee Martin and Family, though this was a Breeding Mike and I had talked about when I sold Jersey to Mike and was dependent upon both dogs working out to be high quality and healthy. Jersey had been my personal favorite/pick in the litter, as she just seemed to show that little something extra as a pup.<br />
Dam and pups are located in Kansas City, MO. Shipping is not an issue and I’ll be making a trip from WV to pick up at least 2 of these pups when ready, approximately the last week of November, offering alternative transport.</p>
<p>There are 11 pups with 5 available currently. 4 Liver/White Females, 1 Liver/White Male, 4 Solid Liver Females and 2 Solid Liver Males.<br />
Pups Pedigree: <a href="http://almostheavengsps.netkennel.com/PedigreeView.asp?DogID=31675&amp;HDR=Dalin%20x%20Jersey%20Litter%20Due%2010/08">http://almostheavengsps.netkennel.com/PedigreeView.asp?DogID=31675&amp;HDR=Dalin%20x%20Jersey%20Litter%20Due%2010/08</a><br />
You can click on the name of any dog in the Pedigree to scroll back through the Pedigree 9-10 Generations.</p>
<p>SIRE: Dalins Dealing Dalin VD Himmel SH, aka. Dalin<br />
Dalin is a Senior Hunter having earned his Title with average scores of 57 out of 60; has 3 placements in 5 Trials run. The 2 Trials he didn&#8217;t place were Gundog Stakes where I chose to pick him up, 1 for moving each paw 2&#8243; forward when he was 1 1/2 years old and 1 for not honoring. He has been Shown in Conformation to 12 Champion Points as well. ALL Owner Handled and Trained in his short 3 years. He is also avidly hunted on Ruffed Grouse 40 days or more per year in the Appalachians and has hunted Grouse and Doodles in Maine, Maryland and West Virginia. We will be continuing to Trial, Test and Show him, as well as hunting the heck out of him! He has been an exceptional Shorthair in all aspects from Ability to Personality and Trainability.</p>
<p>Pedigree: <a href="http://almostheavengsps.netkennel.com/PedigreeView.asp?DogID=12005&amp;HDR=Dalins%20Dealing%20Dalin%20VD%20Himmel%20SH">http://almostheavengsps.netkennel.com/PedigreeView.asp?DogID=12005&amp;HDR=Dalins%20Dealing%20Dalin%20VD%20Himmel%20SH</a><br />
Photo Albums: <a href="http://almostheavengsps.netkennel.com/PhotoAlbumView.asp?AlbumID=2002&amp;HDR=Dalins%20Dealing%20Dalin%20VD%20Himmel%20Senior%20Hunter">http://almostheavengsps.netkennel.com/PhotoAlbumView.asp?AlbumID=2002&amp;HDR=Dalins%20Dealing%20Dalin%20VD%20Himmel%20Senior%20Hunter</a></p>
<p>DAM: Miss Jersey Raines JH, aka. Jersey<br />
Jersey is a Junior Hunter and was &#8220;broke&#8221; while here to be bred and will be going after her Senior Title next Spring, as well as Trialing if I can talk her owner into it. She is a very snappy Shorthair that covers ground with a high head and misses nothing. She is extremely biddable, was honoring after only the 3rd time being shown another “dog on point”, was broke StoWS&amp;F in just a few weeks and is an absolutely natural retriever. She is also an absolute joy to have in the home.<br />
Photo Albums: <a href="http://almostheavengsps.netkennel.com/PhotoAlbumView.asp?AlbumID=5388&amp;HDR=Miss%20Jersey%20Raines%20JH">http://almostheavengsps.netkennel.com/PhotoAlbumView.asp?AlbumID=5388&amp;HDR=Miss%20Jersey%20Raines%20JH</a></p>
<p>From Jersey’s Owner, Mike Martin:<br />
Jersey will be trialed next spring. After several AKC judges commented on how well her style is for Trialing. She is hunted 30 to 40 days per season in Northwest Missouri on Bobwhite Quail and in North Central Kansas on Ringneck Pheasant. As Bruce has mentioned she hunts with a high head and lots of bird drive. As well as a GREAT hunter, Jersey is our family companion.</p>
<p>This should be a very nice litter of Shorthairs with plenty of snap, crackle and pop; &#8220;Full Choke&#8221; noses; lots of style with high heads and high tails; medium to big going range and all the bidability and personality a person could ask for.</p>
<p>Dalin is OFA’d for Hips and Elbows and Jersey is OFA’d for Hips.<br />
Pups are Guaranteed for Abilities, Temperament and against Genetic and Health defects.<br />
Guarantee: <a href="http://almostheavengsps.netkennel.com/FolderView.asp?FolderID=137&amp;mnuid=7380&amp;HDR=Our%20Guarantee">http://almostheavengsps.netkennel.com/FolderView.asp?FolderID=137&amp;mnuid=7380&amp;HDR=Our%20Guarantee</a></p>
<p>$600.00<br />
Pm or email me for contact info and questions.</p>
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by  <strong> AHGSP</strong> A few pix:</p>
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by  <strong> SD Pheasant Slayer</strong> Oh Bruce,</p>
<p>Here you go again trying to sell another litter of pups to poor unsuspecting hunters that aren&#8217;t properly prepared to hunt behind a dog of that quality. I just feel sick about the poor souls that won&#8217;t be able to sleep because when they close their eyes all they can see is a big ol&#8217; fat rooster/grouse/quail exploding in front of their new rock-steady dog. I tell you what, being the humanitarian I am, I will take those pups off your hands and save you the trouble of getting rid of them. Why don&#8217;t you just swing north after picking up your two and deliver the remaining 9 to my place? I&#8217;ll even let you shoot a few SD roosters over Cash for all your trouble. heck, I&#8217;ll even throw in a hand-made crate to keep that wife of yours off your case for coming home empty handed. We may have to work out a deal to protect me from wife though, should I keep the whole group!</p>
<p>In all seriousness &#8211; for potential buyers out there &#8211; I can&#8217;t recommend Bruce and his dogs enough. He&#8217;s a genuine dog-man and is always willing to help out his customers with any training or other questions you might have (not that you&#8217;ll have many with the instincts he breeds into &#8216;em). I have a pup from Bruce and have been in touch with a couple other AHGSP owners and everyone has been thrilled.</p>
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by  <strong> AHGSP</strong><br />
There is absolutely nothing saying I couldn&#8217;t &#8220;get lost&#8221; on the way home and end up in SD! After all&#8230;. It&#8217;s not like I70 is a straight shot between MO and WV&#8230;. I took a wrong turn at Albuquerque&#8230; YEA! That&#8217;s it! That&#8217;s the ticket! Your on your own on your excuse!!!!</p>
<p>Thank you for the glowing endorsement. We try our best and I&#8217;ve never had a pup come back, though I&#8217;ve been tempted to &#8220;confiscate&#8221; more than a couple back, because I liked them so much! Jersey is one of them. I told Mike that if he wanted her back after I finished her up, he was going to have to drive to WV and get her!</p>
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by  <strong> MillerClemsonHD</strong> Alright now Bruce. If Heather see&#8217;s these pictures I&#8217;m in BIG trouble!! Like having Fin around here for Mae&#8217;s playmate isn&#8217;t good enough. Something about those solid livers makes them hard to resist. I have to keep telling her (and myself) Mae deserves to get her training and what not done before having to have another buddy at the house.</p>
<p>I will also just echo the statements already made here. Bruce works hard to put the best dogs out there he can and it shows. I am impressed everyday with my pup and if Bruce called me and said I have a pup for you that you do not want to turn down and would be a great compliment to the one I already have chances of me driving up to WV to get one are pretty high. Luckily it will be at least another year before we get a pup so I might be able to hold him off on this litter. I have seen Dalin run and he is a very impressive dog and chances are the next pup I get will come out of him.</p>
<p>If anyone wants some pictures of the pups out of Bruce&#8217;s last litter I have pics from 8 weeks up to about 6 mos (they are only 6 mos old) of them both in the field and around the house. I have a solid liver female and a friend of mine has a Liver and white Male from the same litter. I will be more than happy to pass along pictures or answer questions about the pups.</p>
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by  <strong> snips</strong> Yes, Dalin is a very nice boy&#8230;His littermate, my Dolly has her SH and a 4 pt major win in trials. Bruces Mollys littermates are doing great also. One littermate has a 1st in NSTRA already, and Ricks male, Pepper is getting ready for his SH this fall&#8230;These lines are as nice as it gets, for FT&#8217;s or Hunt tests, or if you choose to do some shows.</p>
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by  <strong> BrettBryan</strong> Brenda, does this dog have anything to do with Dale and Linda Garner? The reason I ask is the Dalin name.</p>
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by  <strong> snips</strong> Dale bred Dalin. His dam, Spice, Dale got from me, and Logan is the sire. Spices dam&#8217;s dam was bred by Dale and Linda, out of my old Rip.</p>
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by  <strong> BrettBryan</strong> got ya. I figured it had something to do with Dale and Linda because of the Dalin name.</p>
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by  <strong> daddyfid</strong> I have had the pleasure of running with Jersey in hunt tests over the last year. She is the dog that that normally has 2 or 3 finds per run, very intense on point, works the thick cover, has a medium range and TON of drive. I personally have heard 2 judges state that she is a great running dog and that she needs to also run in trials. The first time I saw her run was in a Hunting Dog Challenge about a year ago. It&#8217;s my understanding that this was her 1st competition that she was ever entered in and she earned 2nd place out of 63 dogs. I was invited to hunt over Jersey last fall and was very impressed on her hunting ability. She handled pheasants and quail flawlessly and retrieved every bird. If you are looking for a top notch bird dog you should look into this litter.</p>
<p>I think SD Pheasant Slayer needs to have Jersery and my dog come up and work some birds</p>
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by  <strong> HMiller</strong> Too late Doug&#8230;</p>
<p>Bruce if you &#8220;get lost&#8221; on your way home Mae would love a playmate (and I&#8217;ve already been thinking about names for our next pup&#8230;)! I was just looking at all the puppy pictures the other day&#8230; I can&#8217;t believe how much she has grown and what a great (bird) dog she is turning into! Look forward to seeing you in November!</p>
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by  <strong> AHGSP</strong><br />
Thanx all! We are expecting these to be some pretty dynamite pups!<br />
They are 3 weeks old and growing like weeds. Starting to get around very well, starting on mush to substitute and for anyone that may make it out to the Heart of America GSP Club Hunt Test this weekend, see the Test Chair Mike or Secretary Renee if you would like to ask questions about the litter, Dam, etc&#8230; They are the owners of Jersey! Still just a couple pups available. Updated pictures can be seen here:<br />
<a href="http://almostheavengsps.netkennel.com/PhotoAlbumView.asp?AlbumID=5448&amp;HDR=3%20Week%20Pix!">http://almostheavengsps.netkennel.com/PhotoAlbumView.asp?AlbumID=5448&amp;HDR=3%20Week%20Pix!</a></p>
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by  <strong> Mike&#8217;s Jersey</strong> Hi there Bird Hunters,</p>
<p>Our pups will be 6 weeks old on Monday they are getting personality plus. We still have dogs available, they would make AWESOME Christmas presents.</p>
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by  <strong> Ditch__Parrot</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>Mike&#8217;s Jersey wrote:</cite>Hi there Bird Hunters,</p>
<p>Our pups will be 6 weeks old on Monday they are getting personality plus. We still have dogs available, they would make AWESOME Christmas presents.</p></blockquote>
<p>Mike I sent you a pm</p>
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by  <strong> AHGSP</strong> Hey Mike and Renee! Bout time you signed up! You should go and introduce yourselves in the General Forum.</p>
<p>Pups were intro&#8217;d to birds at 5 weeks and to say they like them, may be an understatement!<br />
These are going to be some great all around Shorthairs that will be capable of being successful in just about anything asked of them.</p>
<p>Pictures are updated to 5 weeks with Bird intro&#8217;s and Stack pix for a view of their build/structure at:<br />
<a href="http://almostheavengsps.netkennel.com/PhotoAlbumView.asp?AlbumID=5397&amp;HDR=Dalin%20and%20Jersey%20Litter%209-29-2008">http://almostheavengsps.netkennel.com/PhotoAlbumView.asp?AlbumID=5397&amp;HDR=Dalin%20and%20Jersey%20Litter%209-29-2008</a></p>
<p>We&#8217;ll be updating with the 6 week stack pix and some just goofing around/playing pix Tuesday or Wednesday.</p>
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by  <strong> Mike&#8217;s Jersey</strong> BIRD HUNTER&#8217;s,</p>
<p>The pups are 7 weeks old now. They are so playful, cute and very friendly.</p>
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by  <strong> Mike&#8217;s Jersey</strong> We still have pups available&#8230;..all the ones left are all liver with just a little smidge of white under the chest. 2 boys and 2 girls.</p>
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by  <strong> greatlawn</strong> Hi New to the forum. I just thought I would let everybody know that the pup I recieved from Mike is amazing. I have hunted over Jersey a lot she is a ROCKSTAR caliber dog. Don&#8217;t miss out on the chance to get a pup.</p>
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by  <strong> Mike&#8217;s Jersey</strong> Took some pictures of the few remaining pups that are for sale. You can see their natural insticts starting to kick in when they discovered the planted quail.</p>
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by  <strong> Mike&#8217;s Jersey</strong> Playing with birds</p>
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by  <strong> Mike&#8217;s Jersey</strong> These pups would make a great Christmas present!!!</p>
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by  <strong> Mike&#8217;s Jersey</strong> Last set of pictures. Wishing everyone a Happy Holiday.</p>
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by  <strong> Ditch__Parrot</strong> My latest pictures of Daisy May from this litter</p>
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by  <strong> greatlawn</strong> Check out the video of Jersey&#8217;s puppies. <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OObTpBQkjrM">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OObTpBQkjrM</a></p>
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by  <strong> snips</strong> Looks like outstanding pups! Somebody outa snatch them up!!!</p>
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by  <strong> AHGSP</strong> These are some super nice pups! All I&#8217;ve seen and heard has been bold, confident and more bold and confident! The pup I&#8217;ve kept spends her days around the pigeon coop and Quail pen when she is not harassing her Daddy and the rest of my pack. Anyone looking for a pure bird dog through and through, really should contact me or Mike about the few remaining pups he has! I can&#8217;t say enough about how pleased I am with my pup at only 12 weeks! Additionally, as soon as Testing season starts out in the MO area, Mike plans to run Jersey for her SH. She was ready when she was bred, but was too close to whelping to attempt it before hand.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Mike&#8217;s Jersey</strong> Hey Everyone,</p>
<p>Spent Saturday in the nice weather working with the puppies, took some video of the pups.</p>
<p>Take a look, here&#8217;s the link.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=MikesJersey&amp;search_type=&amp;aq=f">http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=MikesJersey&amp;search_type=&amp;aq=f</a></p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Mike&#8217;s Jersey</strong> Good Morning,</p>
<p>We had a busy weekend at our house. Four of our puppies got good homes this past weekend. Now we only have one left, male, liver.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Mike&#8217;s Jersey</strong> Hey everyone just wanted to let all of you know that we took the puppies with us hunting this weekend to get them some fun in the sun on sunday.I have one liver male left,and like Bruce said when they were born these dogs have alot of drive!sorry I didn&#8217;t get any video this time.if we have any pics i will get them up later.Angus has had no problems riding in the dog box,an hour and a half drive both ways and no probs.He is also starting to point by scent on pigions and on quail i got for training.We are working on crate and house traing him and having good success,I&#8217;m sure he will make someone a great hunting companion.<br />
Don&#8217;t let him get away.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> greatlawn</strong> I just thought I would put a picture of Toby and my son on a pigeon. These are truly exceptional dogs. Toby is pointing from about 6 feet away.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Lance-CO</strong> This is Dot aka &#8220;Abby&#8221; pointing to a bird.</p>
<p>Angelo</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> greatlawn</strong> Check out Toby at 4 months. I believe there is still 1 solid liver male left.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Cashiers</strong> What pups are still available from this litter, if any?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Mike&#8217;s Jersey</strong> Pictures of Angus on Quail. He is still available.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> MOOSE</strong> They are looking great!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> h.q.s</strong> Lookin good! I have stayed caught up with those videos of them. Sure look like some nice pups!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Mike&#8217;s Jersey</strong> Thanks for the kind words everyone.Just to let everyone know Angus is the last one I have left,and he is house broke and crate trained ,he and very well behaived in the house ,as well he loves kids of any age.<br />
I am working with him on &#8220;here,heal,and woa&#8221;,and he is very bidable .WE try to make sure he gets bird work 3 times a week.<br />
I am just hoping that i can hind him a good hunting home.<br />
PM me if anyone is interested some one will have a chance at a great companion<br />
thanks to everyone Michael.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Lance-CO</strong> Mike,</p>
<p>I can&#8217;t say enough good things about my pup, Abby. Her deposition is awesome. I take her to my office everyday and people doesn&#8217;t even know I have Abby w/ me. In the field, she amazed my retrieve club members on how she naturally points and loves to retrieve dead birds. We are still working on coming back though but she is still young.</p>
<p>Angelo</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> BIGBOREBLASER</strong> Just wanted to share some updates of Rambo aka (Chip) and Briley aka (Misty). They are now 6 mo old and doing very well. They are very well behaved, obedient, and have a strong desire to hunt birds. Rambo entered his first field trial yesterday in the amateur division in West Virginia. His intensity shocked many people and they could not believe his is only 6 mo old. We are thrilled to have two great pups from Jersey and Dalin. I have attached some recent pictures below&#8230; Enjoy!</p>
<p>Rambo and Briley</p>
<p>Rambo on point</p>
<p>Briley on point</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s our 7 yr old weimaraner and the pups when they were 4mo old</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Lance-CO</strong> Just want to post a couple of pictures of one of the pup from this litter. This is Abby previous aka &#8220;Dot&#8221;</p>
<p>Abby w/ my lab Pick</p>
<p>Abby pointing w/ style</p>
<p>Abby pointing again</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> MillerClemsonHD</strong> Great pictures, I have been hoping to see some pics from this litter soon and hear how they were doing. My wife tries to steal Muddy from Bruce every time we go see him.</p>
<p>Bruce how do you get these little liver girls to look so much alike???? Not the same litter but out of the same lines.</p>
<p>This one is one of my favorites. She actual curls her lip frequently</p>
<p>Even have the same ear flip up on point!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Ditch__Parrot</strong> Good to see recent pics of Abby. I&#8217;ll share of few of Daisy May. Most were taken a couple weeks ago. Sorry most recent I have. I&#8217;ll try to get the photographer to go with me to take some training pics to post.</p>
<p>I know that tennis ball is around here somewhere</p>
<p>No, don&#8217;t point at it&#8230;. Pick it up and bring it here.. silly girl</p>
<p>Thats more like it</p>
<p>Couch Tater</p>
<p>Unfortunately with her being such a quick little squirt most of our picks of her come out like this</p>
<p>An older one</p>
<p>Her first point of a covey of wild quail !! She really loves quail.</p>
<p>Picking up a single</p>
<p>That sure is a nice looking girl of MillerClemsonHD&#8217;s. They do all kind of look the same, don&#8217;t they.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> HMiller</strong> The pups are looking great! I love the pic of Daisy May on the couch&#8230; Mae used to sleep on the back of the couch like that&#8230; now she&#8217;s just taken over the couch!</p>
<p>It is crazy how they all look alike&#8230; we love our solid liver girl and I go back and forth on whether I want anything other than solid liver, but Muddy is pretty darn cute&#8230; Bruce still hasn&#8217;t taken me up on my offer to puppy sit when Mae is up there for &#8220;camp&#8221;!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Ditch__Parrot</strong> Bruce&#8230;Lets see some pics of Muddy..</p>
<p>A few more. Same day. Better camera, better photographer.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Ruffshooter</strong> I don&#8217;t know if you ever will do that breeding again but if I can not get my Mercy bred I would be interested. That one with the flipped over ear is almost I dentical to Mercy. By description seems to have similar attributes.</p>
<p>Very Nice all.<br />
Rick</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> nwMOgsp</strong> I have been extremely pleased with my pup so far (Angus), and his training is coming along well. Right now I am working lots of hours, plus I have two small kids at home, so Angus is with a pro trainer. Every time I talk to him, he comments on how quickly he is picking everything up, and how well he is doing overall. His temperament is also great &#8211; the kids love him to death, and ask almost daily if we can go get him yet.</p>
<p>Jason</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> AHGSP</strong> Awesome to see all the pix of the pups as they&#8217;ve been growing!</p>
<p>I&#8217;ll get some pix of Muddy up this weekend if I can get a few new ones of her in the field.</p>
<p>Jason,<br />
If I may, who do you have Angus with?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> nwMOgsp</strong> Bruce,</p>
<p>Angus is with Les Simon (The Gun Dog School of Missouri) in Cosby, MO - <a href="http://www.gundogofmo.com/">http://www.gundogofmo.com/</a>.</p>
<p>Jason</p>
<hr />
<h1>1st for me!</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=24868">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=24868</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> snips</strong> Few days ago I was at pigeon coop and Rick was training in the field..Birds were flying in&#8230;While I was walking around a pigeon landed on my shoulderJust sat there while I was getting feed&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.</p>
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by  <strong> postoakshorthairs</strong> just be happy it didn&#8217;t use you as an outhouse!</p>
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by  <strong> ezzy333</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>snips wrote:</cite>Few days ago I was at pigeon coop and Rick was training in the field..Birds were flying in&#8230;While I was walking around a pigeon landed on my shoulder Just sat there while I was getting feed&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.</p></blockquote>
<p>My young birds never do that but the older breeding pairs will land on my head or shoulders or whatever they deem as handy when I go in to feed them. Kind of neat really. But it is a surprise the first time it happens.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
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by  <strong> snips</strong> I was not even inside. These white pigeons I bought from a left over club event to add some color&#8230;They might be somewhat more domesticated than mine are. They have been great to raise, very guarding parents. It was a surprise tho. He just stood on my shoulder while I moved around&#8230;.</p>
<hr />
<h1>Hawk+pigeon</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=10511">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=10511</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> bean1031</strong> I was driving home from sonic today when off to the side of the road in a feild I saw a hawk circling around about 30ft off the ground. Right from under it a piegeon or a dove took off. The hawk closed its wings and dove! The bird only got about 5 ft. and then WAM! It was like a line backer nailing an old lady!</p>
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by  <strong> Dennmor</strong> Was watching one of the Birddogs Forever shows on line. This one had a guy who hunts pheasants with two setters and a hawk! Can&#8217;t remember what kind of hawk but it was large. Anyway the dogs would go on point and hold until the Hawk could gain enough height. Then the bird was flushed and the hawk dove in for the kill. Quite interesting.</p>
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by  <strong> Grange</strong> This past fall while my parents were on vacation I was taking care of his pigeons. As I was getting ready to let them out I looked out the back window and saw a hawk sitting in a tree immediately behind the pigeon coop. The birds didn&#8217;t get to stretch their wings that day.</p>
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by  <strong> dog dr</strong> if you keep pigeons long enough and fly them once in a while, the hawks will find you&#8230;. and your pigeons.</p>
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by  <strong> markj</strong> Where I work used to be a wetland area. Was here in the summer saw a hawk take a pigion out of the air. Some gals started yelling at the hawk he lets the pigion go hawk catches it again and off he goes with it. I said nothing like fresh meat</p>
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by  <strong> natetnc</strong> as i mentioned a couple weeks ago, i was launching quail out of a launcher for my pup and letting my buddies older dog play clean up. before we could get his dog out to play clean up a hawk had already got to one of them.</p>
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by  <strong> luke0927</strong> .22 mag&#8230;.what hawk?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> V-John</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>luke0927 wrote:</cite>.22 mag&#8230;.what hawk?</p></blockquote>
<p>Then this happens to you.</p>
<p>Undercover&#8230; You kidding me?</p>
<p><a href="http://www.cnn.com/video/#/video/us/2008/01/20/finnstrom.hawk.killer.cnn">http://www.cnn.com/video/#/video/us/200 &#8230; killer.cnn</a></p>
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by  <strong> Casper</strong> Recently I had 2 hawks in my coop after I was gone for a week. I came home to a Red Tail and a Falcon in my coop. They killed 3 of my best birds. Total they killed 6 birds. Even though they killed those 3 good ones they weren&#8217;t so special that I needed to kill the predator. It was sure neat though to see those birds up close. They are allot smaller than they appear.</p>
<p>If you plan on raising pigeons you have to plan on casualties. I have had hawks try and take out my birds just out of the remote releasers.</p>
<p>FWIW</p>
<hr />
<h1>Tethering/hobbling pigeons</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=1303">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=1303</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> Casper</strong> I am new here and I have a situation. I have started my own pigeon coop. The birds were puchased from a guy that raced them. All the info I have read informs me that I will have to wait till I have reared some chicks that will know of no other place to fly back to other than my coop. So what I would like to know is if any of you know how to tether a pigeon so it can take flight just far enough to be out of sight of my pup so we can work up to another bird. This way a helper or myself can retrieve the birds to use again another day. I dont have wild pigeons or a game bird farm near by so I am having to make do with what I have.<br />
Casper</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> TAK</strong> Casper what you are talking about is reffered to as Carding a bird. How I do it is I get a good health pigion, sounds as if you have that. I will attach a piece of yarn to a piece of card board and then to one leg of the bird. I use a slip knot or something along the lines of that(no Boy Scout)Some people dizzy the bird a bit before release some don&#8217;t. THe wind and the air drag of the card board tires the bird out a bit and will sit, but also be ready to take fight again when you work the dog to it. When I am training this way the dog is always on a check cord. Most offen the bird will react to the dog.<br />
Also pick your training area wisely. Tall busy places and lot of tangle areas is not a good Idea.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> snips</strong> One more thing. I don` know about pigeons that have been raced, but I thought if you kept a pigeon a month or two, any pigeon would home back to you. I have adult pigeons given to me that I keep up awhile then I train them to my coop.</p>
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by  <strong> Country-Side Breeders</strong> Racing pigeons will always return to their original destination. You can keep them for years and they will still head back to where they came from if left free. And a lot times, if the previous owner gets his &#8220;bad&#8221; birds back, they get rather upset. I&#8217;ve been on both sides of the track&#8230;we used to race them when I was young.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Ayres</strong> Another problem: If you have flocks of wild pigeons around where you live (like I do) then it doesn&#8217;t matter if you keep young pigeons in your coop all winter long, they&#8217;ll eventually hook up with the wild ones and never come back.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Country-Side Breeders</strong> Yep.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Casper</strong> Tak<br />
how long should the yarn be and how big a peice of card board. how far will a pigeon fly.<br />
Thank you. You killed tow birds with one stone I was going to ask what carding was!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> TAK</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>Country-Side Breeders wrote:</cite>Racing pigeons will always return to their original destination. You can keep them for years and they will still head back to where they came from if left free. And a lot times, if the previous owner gets his &#8220;bad&#8221; birds back, they get rather upset. I&#8217;ve been on both sides of the track&#8230;we used to race them when I was young.</p></blockquote>
<p>Not always true&#8230;. I have a pair that was given to me. They have papers on them and range in price from $400 dollars a bird! I left them in the coop for about 4 weeks and they produced one egg. I was told to break it and they would produce 2 next time I did this and true to fact 2 eggs. Momma bird is sitting 2 eggs and I use both to work dogs and both returned every time&#8230;&#8230;.. So far so good!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> TAK</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>Casper wrote:</cite>Tak<br />
how long should the yarn be and how big a peice of card board. how far will a pigeon fly.<br />
Thank you. You killed tow birds with one stone I was going to ask what carding was!</p></blockquote>
<p>8 or so inches. Not to long so there is not mcuh to tangle around bushes. Just work with it and see what works for you&#8230;..</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Country-Side Breeders</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>TAK wrote:</cite>Not always true&#8230;. I have a pair that was given to me. They have papers on them and range in price from $400 dollars a bird! I left them in the coop for about 4 weeks and they produced one egg. I was told to break it and they would produce 2 next time I did this and true to fact 2 eggs. Momma bird is sitting 2 eggs and I use both to work dogs and both returned every time&#8230;&#8230;.. So far so good!</p></blockquote>
<p>You&#8217;re right&#8230;they won&#8217;t leave if they&#8217;re sitting on a nest. Sometimes it&#8217;s hard enough just to get them to leave to do cleaning!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Small Munsterlander</strong> Casper: Here is a version of Tak&#8217;s suggestion with a little more detail. It is taken from a document I wrote for my clients a number of years ago.</p>
<p>Disked Birds:</p>
<p>Disked birds are a term I have coined for a technical modification I have created to the “carded” bird technique used to make non-covey or non-homing training birds recyclable. Not everyone has access to wild birds whenever certain training sessions are called for in the development of your bird dog. Not everyone can house homing pigeons or set up a recall pen situation yet wants the benefit of a “soft” planted bird that will flush as close to wild. Hampering the birds ability to fly very far yet be able to get up without hindrance, as a wild bird would, are great benefits to a trainer. Trainers for decades have been creating drag and using gravity to fatigue different bird species (quail, chukar and pigeons) so the bird could simulate the flush of a wild bird yet is recoverable for future reuse. The common method was to use cardboard in the shape of a rectangle of approximately 8”X12” dimensions to create this drag and weight. All materials have limitations and I found cardboard to be easily affected by water (rain or ponds) and too easily bent therefore loosing the drag benefit offered from a flat resistant surface. I also experienced the square corners snagging more often than what I perceived a round or disk shape might. I became aware of a material called Coraplast years ago which researching materials to use for solving various challenges in housing and transporting my hawks, falcons and owls. Coraplast is simply a “plastic” corrugated cardboard. It is much more durable than cardboard yet possesses approximately the same weight. Combining the durability of the Coraplast with a less snag resistant shape (circular) I hit upon a modification that seems superior to the one of old.</p>
<p>I made a few other small modifications that aid in the use of this “system”. Obviously the disks can be created in any practical size. Quail need less drag and gravity to bring them back to ground than pigeons. So I cut disk of 4”, 6”, 8”, and 12” and place a 3/8” hole in the center of all except a few of the 4” disks. These 4” disks I call my base disks and they have a 12” line (any longer increases the risk of tangling on equipment or low bushes yet doesn’t increase the effect of the system) fastened to the center of the disk using a small hole and simple knot to create a size that cannot be pulled back through the center hole. At the other end of the line I attach a quick opening fishing swivel. The reason for the fishing swivel? To reduce tangling and improve attachment ease to the bird’s leg. Many a potential training bird has escaped while the trainer is attempting to “tie” the string to the bird. When the training session is over and the bird recovered removed of the disk system is also very easy because of the clip-fastening portion of the fishing swivel. Because of the holes in the larger sized disks a larger disk (if needed) can be slipped over the line to increase drag and weight. One final modification I implemented was the use of brightly colored Coraplast. This aids in locating the down bird and yet seems to be more difficult for the dogs to see while the bird is planted or in the launcher.</p>
<p>Disked birds can be used in combination with launchers but care should be taken to have a training area devoid of trees that may allow the bird to roost out of reach or worse yet get hung up for a most disrespectful death.</p>
<p>William L. Dove © Copyright 1999-05 Owner and Operator of Lonesome Dove’s Kennel, Lonesome Dove’s Training Diary and Lonesome Dove’s Discussion Group.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> gunner</strong> Bill,</p>
<p>Do you use modified falconers jessies to attach the swivel and line to the birds leg?<br />
And do you attach to one leg or both?<br />
Thanks</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Small Munsterlander</strong> Gunner: I don&#8217;t but one could. Rather than jesses I would use a design of anklet with a very small gromet hole if I thought that was necessary. Pigeons are quite dirty birds so I would think anything semi-perminently attached to their tarsas would likely get filthy. Some falconers flying small raptors like kestrels, merlins, coopers and sharpies use a snap closure/leather anklet system that is removable after hunting. This system might have value.</p>
<p>The use of a pair of lines going to each tarsas or a short &#8220;V&#8221; structure would certainly reduce what little stress is applied. However, this benifit needs to be weighted against the risk of hangup based on the type of habitat in the training area.</p>
<p>I train often in areas with small bushes so like many &#8220;modifiers&#8221; I created this tool to reflect those conditions. If a person trains in very open habitat they don&#8217;t need to be as concerned about hangups.</p>
<p>If any of this doesn&#8217;t make sense I can make some drawings and post them but if you have some association with a falconer or group they can further explain the above.</p>
<p>Out of necessity falconers become resoursefull so the limiting factor will be your creativity. I would be interested in hearing back if you design a useful modification to this system. Bill</p>
<hr />
<h1>Raccoon Ranglers?</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=4026">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=4026</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> crittercontrol</strong> Had the pleasure of taking 12 Volt Man along with me “crittering” the other day.</p>
<p>Got a call for a “Raccoon in the Chimney,” and upon closer inspection we found two raccoons in the chimney flue, 1 Blond, the other standard issue brown.</p>
<p>I push them up the flue, while 12 Volt man is ready for the capture. Success!</p>
<p>Boy was she mad! Pretty rare find though&#8230;.</p>
<p>The other pops out the flue.</p>
<p>But we narrowly miss him!</p>
<p>Just another day&#8230;.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> GSP4619</strong> Oh man some has to do it LOL. You never got bit did you?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> gr_elliott</strong> I have much respect for a person that does that for a living. I few months ago I had a squrial in the wall and called my pest controll buddy out to help me. It is a long story so i just copied it and pasted it from an email I had sent</p>
<p>==============================<br />
What a night last night was, wild squirrel in my wall, drunk pest control guy, and Harper trying to talk us into just letting the squirrel out to run wild in the house so he can kick it.</p>
<p>It all started last weekend I was in the house and hear something running around in the attic. I knew it had to be a squirrel, they are all over the place around my house, just begging to get shot and eating all my bird food. Every time I heard his little &#8220;bleep&#8221; running around I grabbed the broom and beat on the ceiling, and would crawl into the attic and flash my light around to see if I could see him. I did this a few times and noise stopped. I thought great, they left, now all I have to do is get a tall ladder and close up any sort of opening.</p>
<p>Tuesday night rolls around and we are eating dinner, when all the sudden I hear something in the wall by the kitchen trying to claw its way out. I had no idea what to do at that point, so I said forget it and watched some TV and went to bed. Wednesday he is still in the wall so I call my buddy Ryan the pest control guy to help out.</p>
<p>He shows up on Thursday around 4:30 to get this thing out. He immediately goes to the fridge and grabs a beer, we sit around and BS and we drink one. After that he crawled up in the attic and looked down the wall and sure enough he could see the squirrel. It was all hunkered down and almost dead, barely breathing. We did not want to cut a hole in the wall, so I asked him if he had something that we could stick down the wall stab the squirrel with and pull it out. Of course it is not that easy, he had nothing, I thought it was strange that the pest control guy had nothing like this.</p>
<p>Then I came up with a “great” idea. I said hey man I have a fishing pole over there, we can put a treble hook on it and try to hook him and reel him up, he is almost dead, so he should not fight that much. Surprisingly Ryan thought this was a good idea, we rigged up the fishing pool and he went in the attic again. Oh yeah, after like 2 more beers. He was kinda worried at first about what that squirrel was going to do if he did hook it. Me being the good friend said hey don’t worry about it, that is a 7’ rod, just make sure you hook him good. Well he tried to hook him and the squirrel did not move, but Ryan could not get it hooked. That idea was busted.</p>
<p>He drank a couple more beers and then it was time to do the only thing left, cut the wall. That turned out to be a task in itself, we broke all the blades on the jig saw and he had to go to Lowe’s to get more. Of course after one more beer.</p>
<p>He finally gets the wall open and he pokes in there with a wire to try and locate the squirrel. This went on for like 30 minutes when all the sudden the squirrel came to life and came springing out of the hole, he slammed the cabinet doors so that it would not get loose in the house. That is when it was decided that we need to kill this thing, so out came the pellet gun. We opened up the cabinet and Ryan had the pellet gun ready to shot. After 15 min of poking Mr Squirrel showed his face again and he got popped in the chest. Harper was holding the flashlight and ran like a little girl; Ryan is scream “give me the GD light”. It was real tense for like 10 seconds waiting to see what was going to happen. Then Ryan’s cell phone starts ringing and vibrating in his back pocket, and he went crazy. He thought that squirrel was going up his &#8220;bleep&#8221;. It was funny, and a good reason to drink another beer.</p>
<p>Ryan went to stick his hand in the wall to grab the squirrel and it bit him, turns out he was not dead. It did not break the skin though, he was wearing gloves. The poking went on for I bet 30 more minutes before the rodent showed his face again, this time he caught a pellet in the forehead….done. We got him out, it took 3 hours, and I bet Ryan drank a 12 pack by himself in that timeframe.</p>
<p>After it is all said and done, Ryan said, “I have never done this, I just spray for bugs”. Dude has never even done this before, guess he found one more field to work in thanks to me.</p>
<p>=================================</p>
<p>sorry to hijack, just thought this was funny&#8230;..</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Ryan</strong> Rob you sissy why didnt you grab him with your hands</p>
<p>Never seen a blonde one. I bet you 2 had fun.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> GSP4619</strong> LMAO good story.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> GSPinROCH</strong> All I have to say is The Great Outdoors with Dan Akyroyd and John Candy LMAO and hearing stories like that reminds me of that movie with the bat and the coons and oh man!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Greg Jennings</strong> Was playing volleyball with friends in Granbury, TX when I lived in Ft. Worth.</p>
<p>Ball went down a culvert, I went in on elbows and toes after it. Found myself facing a racoon. It was *huge* and very pissed off.</p>
<p>I think I still hold the world record for the 20 yard backwards elbows and knees sprint.</p>
<p>Best,</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Vizsla Vince</strong> That&#8217;s pretty wild (no pun intended)! I didn&#8217;t know racoons came in blonde! The only animals I run into @ work are already dead &amp; either cooked or puree&#8217;d.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> GSP4619</strong> LOL</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Wagonmaster</strong> We had one &#8220;unzip&#8221; a dog in about six seconds, during a hunting trip back in the 60&#8242;s. Opened the belly right up. Fortunately, had a surgeon in the party. Fixed back at the car with a needle and thread until we could get to the vet.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> mit</strong> OMG! I never knew they could be that nasty.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> ezzy333</strong> You sure that wasn&#8217;t a badger. Coons normally fight on top while a badger lays on its back and will cut a dog to ribbons. Also badgers are normally den in a a good cover field. Just seems like the work of a badger from how you describe it.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Wagonmaster</strong> Yes, it was in a swamp and we saw it. Racoon. The dog and coon got into it and the coon just opened the dog up. Fairly large one. You are right, they usually like to get up on the head and take the eyes out. Which also happened to a friend some years back. One-Eyed Jack became the dog&#8217;s name.</p>
<p>Not a thing to play with.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> GSP4619</strong> OMG I did not know either they are that crazy. That is realy scary.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> mountaindogs</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>Greg Jennings wrote:</cite>Was playing volleyball with friends in Granbury, TX when I lived in Ft. Worth.</p>
<p>Ball went down a culvert, I went in on elbows and toes after it. Found myself facing a racoon. It was *huge* and very pissed off.</p>
<p>I think I still hold the world record for the 20 yard backwards elbows and knees sprint.</p>
<p>Best,</p></blockquote>
<p>LOL, that I would like to see</p>
<p>I used to do wildlife rehab and the spouse did wildlife damage control so we&#8217;ve both had our fair share of racoons too close! Tough little critters, I still have a couple of scars from a baby a few weeks past weaning!! I am sure he thrived cause he was a mean mean little thing. A good thing in Rehab, but</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Greg Jennings</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>mountaindogs wrote:</cite></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>Greg Jennings wrote:</cite>Was playing volleyball with friends in Granbury, TX when I lived in Ft. Worth.</p>
<p>Ball went down a culvert, I went in on elbows and toes after it. Found myself facing a racoon. It was *huge* and very pissed off.</p>
<p>I think I still hold the world record for the 20 yard backwards elbows and knees sprint.</p>
<p>Best,</p></blockquote>
<p>LOL, that I would like to see</p>
<p>I used to do wildlife rehab and the spouse did wildlife damage control so we&#8217;ve both had our fair share of racoons too close! Tough little critters, I still have a couple of scars from a baby a few weeks past weaning!! I am sure he thrived cause he was a mean mean little thing. A good thing in Rehab, but</p></blockquote>
<p>I&#8217;d heard the jokes about climbing up in a tree to shake a racoon out when coon hunting (&#8220;shoot up here, one of us has got to have some relief!&#8221;), but being in a narrow culvert with one brought it too close to home.</p>
<p>We&#8217;ve had problems with them catching Huns that we had in a pigeon coop. 6 huns in one night. We put the traps out and caught 3 racoons in two nights, then another within a week. Tricky little rascals.</p>
<p>Best,</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> grant</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>Greg Jennings wrote:</cite>Was playing volleyball with friends in Granbury, TX when I lived in Ft. Worth.</p>
<p>Ball went down a culvert, I went in on elbows and toes after it. Found myself facing a racoon. It was *huge* and very pissed off.</p>
<p>I think I still hold the world record for the 20 yard backwards elbows and knees sprint.</p>
<p>Best,</p></blockquote>
<p>lol</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> LuLu_01</strong> Years ago, a friend of mine had a racoon in their garage. The animal control guy got it with his pole. I&#8217;ll tell you what, that the the scarriest things. That racoon surely would have ripped anything open at that point.</p>
<p>Since then, I avoid encountering one at all costs.</p>
<p>Had a possum up in a blue spruce tree here one night. My GSP was outside and started &#8220;Screaming&#8221;, thought for sure she was caught on something or hurt very badly.</p>
<p>Had to grab a flashlight and run, she was behind the waterfall of the pond, under the blue spruce (branches are cut up about 5ft because of the waterfall). She had something &#8220;tree&#8217;d, I didn&#8217;t want to go under the tree to get her, figured a coon was in it. She was screaming so much, the neighbors were starting to come out to find out what was wrong. The dog is very quiet normally&#8230;what a sound to behold.</p>
<p>I was able to see what was in the tree, a possum, I really didn&#8217;t want to get under that either but finally got the dog..without incident.</p>
<p>Guess when our dogs are potentially threatened or hurt&#8230;we&#8217;ll do just about anything!!</p>
<hr />
<h1>Pigeons and coop design</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=9080">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=9080</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> bobman</strong> can you folks post good links or personal pictures of coop designs and give a good description of the process of establishing a homing pigeon coop system that will provide birds for training purposes for a year or more.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> AceofSpades41</strong> Bobman</p>
<p>For me I used the plans from the following link <a href="http://www.redroselofts.com/starter_loft.htm">http://www.redroselofts.com/starter_loft.htm</a>. The loft is 4 x 8 x 8 and it will hold up to 17 birds comfortably.</p>
<p>For me my current batch of birds I got as culls never been flown and I&#8217;ve basically locked them up for the past 6 weeks giving them access to the aviary in the front this allowed them to get their bearings. I then open the loft door and let them explore.</p>
<p>Right now their at the 5 mile radius, eventually will get them out to 50 miles as my training area is 35 miles out. Including some pics.</p>
<p>Hope this gives you a starting point.</p>
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by  <strong> luke0927</strong> please do&#8230;i need to turn my quail Johnny house into a pigeion coop and i need some ideas&#8230;.I think ill take a pic and get some thoughts from people on here.</p>
<p>edit&#8230;</p>
<p>I see ACE&#8217;s post i did not know you could get them to come back from that far. Do you just take them down the road let them out and let htem come back&#8230;.just working your way out to farther distances?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> ohiogsp</strong> <a href="http://www.gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5777&amp;highlight=pigeon">http://www.gundogforum.com/forum/viewto &#8230; ght=pigeon</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2742&amp;highlight=pigeon">http://www.gundogforum.com/forum/viewto &#8230; ght=pigeon</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8978&amp;highlight=pigeon">http://www.gundogforum.com/forum/viewto &#8230; ght=pigeon</a></p>
<hr />
<h1>Pigeons in close quarters?</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=17002">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=17002</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> Jta</strong> Hey all<br />
First time poster, and I just wanted to say how much I liked the website. I have a question though. What do you guys think about having a pigeon coop close to the dog. I have a medium sized backyard where my gsp spends a lot of his time during the day. I would like to get my own pigeons to continue doing hunting training with him. However, I don&#8217;t know what having pigeons so close to him would do to his drive or training in the field. What are your thoughts? Thanks.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Sprig</strong> I have a pigeon coop 10 feet away from my dogs and the only down side is occasionly a dog will bark at the birds but that usually is short lived with only new dogs. once they get used to the birds the dog usually settles down.<br />
it wont bother the birds at all.</p>
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by  <strong> windswept</strong> I occasionally buy pigeons from a guy who has three GSPs living in the yard with his three coops. So I went ahead and set my coop up in the exercise yard I use for my dogs. It&#8217;s only been a few months but so far my pigeon guy was right. No problem for the dogs.<br />
The one problem I have is this. My coop is about 6 inches off the ground and has a mesh floor. ALOT of pigeon feed ends up on the ground and my dogs have been pulling food and droppings out from under the coop and eating it. So when I&#8217;m cleaning kennels I have been seeing quite abit of bird seed in the dog&#8217;s waste. I took advantage of the warm weather we are having these last few days and put down a solid floor in the coop. That should solve my problem.</p>
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by  <strong> Jta</strong> What about if the dog could literally jump up and see the birds? Nose on the glass so to speak. I don&#8217;t really have a better spot to put the coop, but I guess I could fence it off, but I don&#8217;t really want to if I don&#8217;t need to.</p>
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by  <strong> GsPJustin</strong> I was always told that it would make the dogs want the birds more&#8230; But heck, what do I know!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Rick Hall</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>Jta wrote:</cite>What about if the dog could literally jump up and see the birds? Nose on the glass so to speak. I don&#8217;t really have a better spot to put the coop, but I guess I could fence it off, but I don&#8217;t really want to if I don&#8217;t need to.</p></blockquote>
<p>My dogs have, for decades now, been able to get eyeball to eyeball with our penned birds without need to jump, whether the homer loft in our yard, the quail pen I kept under an office window (to evesdrop on their small talk), or the pheasant, chukar and quail pens right next to their kennels at the lodge. No problems whatsoever. My only concern in your case would be a loft design that precludes break-ins if the dog is left with it unsupervised. Once Pup learns he can&#8217;t get at your yard birds, he&#8217;ll little doubt quit paying much attention to them there. Yet, he&#8217;ll still be as driven as ever to work them in other context.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Jta</strong> I am positive that my dog can not get into the pigeon coop. It was made strong enough to keep a dog out. All the openings are up high except for the door which is secure. You can walk inside the cage.</p>
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by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> My coop is in my yard and not fenced off. As you can see from the pics, the dogs will do laps around the coop which has made a mud doughnut around the coop now&#8230;. They don&#8217;t bother the birds and, IMO, it&#8217;s kind of like HDTV for dogs&#8230;&#8230;</p>
<p>If the birds are making a lot of commotion inside the coop, both dogs will tend to pay attention to the coop&#8230;.</p>
<p>My youngest will check out the coop and go about her business (notice the ball in her mouth) if the birds aren&#8217;t doing much. On the other hand, my oldest GSP will head to the coop as soon as she goes out and pretty much stay right there until we get her to come in. At times, it&#8217;s almost impossible to pull her away from the coop (even when it&#8217;s raining for bitterly cold) because she&#8217;s so focused on the birds.</p>
<hr />
<h1>Pigeon vs. Quail</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=21705">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=21705</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> surferdave</strong> I recently built a pigeon coop. Now that I&#8217;m looking into getting my hands on pigeons, I found a person that sells breeding pairs of quail. For training purposes, which would work better? Is it easier to get pigeon to breed than quail? What is your experiences regarding this. My coop is 4X4X4 with shelves for nesting and &#8220;sunroom&#8221; with wire mesh. Can quail even be housed like this? I always see them in enclosures that incorporate the ground so they can run around.</p>
<p>David.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> surferdave</strong> Oh, one more thing. Can pigeons and quail be housed together successfully? Thanks.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> mudhunter</strong> The quail will not breed. They will Lay eggs that you can remove and incubate yourself but the Quail will not hatch their own eggs in the pen. Pigeons will do it all by themselves. As far as whats better for training I prefer quail but they only work if you can can train within a few hundred yards of the pen. Pigeons you can train miles away from the coop. Don&#8217;t know about housing them together, never tried it.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> mm</strong> I have put them togther with no problem.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> surferdave</strong> Thanks for the advice. Sounds like I&#8217;ll have better luck breeding pigeon with the environment I have right now. I guess if I need quail for planting later down the line, I can just purchase them individually.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> birddog1968</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>mudhunter wrote:</cite>The quail will not breed. They will Lay eggs that you can remove and incubate yourself but the Quail will not hatch their own eggs in the pen. Pigeons will do it all by themselves. As far as whats better for training I prefer quail but they only work if you can can train within a few hundred yards of the pen. Pigeons you can train miles away from the coop. Don&#8217;t know about housing them together, never tried it.</p></blockquote>
<p>If you can incubate eggs than the quail obviously bred&#8230;&#8230;.They may or may not set tho&#8230;..Alot of folks will use Bantam chickens to set quail eggs or an incubator..</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> surferdave</strong> So strange, is there a reason the quail will lay them but not set on them till they hatch? Maybe it&#8217;s not a comfortable environment for them to raise their young?</p>
<p>David</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> wems2371</strong> I was told that domesticated quail just aren&#8217;t smart enough or have enough instincts left in them. My quail would lay huge nests of eggs, and then they&#8217;d scratch them all out of the nest and start over, never sitting on any of them long enough for a hatch. I got two young bantam hens this fall, that I&#8217;m looking forward to trying out next year. I have a friend who has done this very successfully.</p>
<hr />
<h1>Pigeon coup design and placement</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=12000">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=12000</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> I&#8217;d like to build a new pigeon coup for keeping homers &amp; shooters for training and would like some input on the design and where to locate the loft.</p>
<p>We have fenced in backyard (chain-link) and I&#8217;d like to put the loft in the corner of our yard so it&#8217;s away from the house and was wondering if this would be a problem for A) the birds due to the elements (out in the open) or B) for my pup (getting used to the smell).</p>
<p>We back up to a creek and have decent neighbors so I could probably place the loft right outside the fence in the common area if I had too but I&#8217;d rather have it in our yard if at all possible.</p>
<p>Any experience/input on the loft design and placement would be much appreciated&#8230;..and thanks in advance!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Rick Hall</strong> Sharing a yard with your loft should have no influence your dog&#8217;s reaction to the birds outside their loft. (I&#8217;ve had a loft in my yard for years, and my dogs&#8217; kennels at the lodge are all of thirty feet from our preserve bird pens.)</p>
<p>As for dealing with the elements, pigeons are hardy birds, but the loft shown below was designed for South Louisiana, and if I went with something similar in the North, I&#8217;d want removeable shutters over most of the wire in winter. The Redrose type lofts found at link I&#8217;ve included might roast birds here, but are apparently fine in cooler climates.</p>
<p>In any event, here are a couple of my posts on loft design from another board:</p>
<blockquote><p>I&#8217;m the Goldilocks of pigeon lofts.</p>
<p>My first (the corner of a livestock shed) was much too big, and I fed a whole lot more homers than necessary, did a whole lot more clean-up than necessary, had a whole lot more trouble catching the particular birds I wanted than necessary, and took a whole lot more health risk than necessary.</p>
<p>So I downsized my second loft dramatically to a small walk-in accommodating six breeding pairs with just a 4&#8242;x4&#8242; footprint. It was designed with ease of maintenance in mind and had a grated floor, which needed shoveled out from under just a couple times a year and was a big step up from shoveling, sweeping and shoveling the first one every little whip-stitch. And I no longer needed to chase a particular bird I wanted, as all could be reached with little movement. But it didn&#8217;t comfortably house as many reserve birds as I might wish to keep, took pains to get in and out of without letting birds slip out, and raised concerns about the health risk of breathing the &#8220;dust&#8221; the birds and routine cleaning kicked up in that small, relatively confined space.</p>
<p>Loft three, which I find &#8220;just right,&#8221; is another walk-in with a grated floor and that&#8217;s also designed to accommodate six breeding pairs, but I increased the footprint to 4&#8242;x6&#8242;, which holds more birds, gives them plenty room to move away from the door when I enter and exit, and affords much more ventilation, while still offering sufficient shelter from the elements and allowing easy capture of any particular bird I wish. And it was built of treated lumber and metal siding, so rather than stirring potentially hazardous &#8220;dust&#8217; while cleaning, I can simply hose all but the nest boxes out. Aside from periodically emptying those next boxes, maintenance is down to hosing out the loft and shoveling the droppings out from under it just twice a year.</p>
<p>Please know I am not trying to suggest that my loft should or would suit anyone else&#8217;s needs, but am only presenting some considerations I&#8217;ve found important. Be back in a while to post some pics and speak to some small refinements I&#8217;ve found useful, but in the meantime, here is a link showing a very popular loft design, how to build it and lofts a number of others have built beginning with that basic design: <a href="http://www.redroselofts.com/starter_loft.htm">PIGEON LOFT LINK</a></p></blockquote>
<p>and:</p>
<blockquote><p>Round two, some photos and &#8220;Why?s&#8221;:</p>
<p>Under construction:</p>
<p>Aside from showing the raised grate floor, hose-proof framing and nest box design, the most important thing this shot shows is the placement of the loft&#8217;s return trap. It is too far from portions of the loft varmints (and pets) can climb for them to reach and enter it, and it is on a side of the loft that shields it from the view of prey birds perched in the large oaks overlooking the loft. Hawks and owls most definitely do sit and study the birds through the loft&#8217;s ventilation wire, but none, to date, has solved the riddle of getting at them in the loft.</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s the highly sophisticated locking system for the trap&#8217;s hinged outside perch/door, an inverted sliding bolt:</p>
<p>There&#8217;s also an inside lock for the trap&#8217;s bobs provided by a rod that can be run through holes near the bottom of the doors frame or through holes near its top to hold the bobs up, as shown here:</p>
<p>A front view during construction:</p>
<p>And the finished loft:</p>
<p>This one shows how the loft is ventilated (maybe not such a good thing in cold climates but great down here) and the small door that allows access to the area under the nesting boxes that can be used to service feeders, waterers and the nesting material bin without disturbing the rest of the loft.</p>
<p>The nesting area:</p>
<p>Since one of my goals is maximum reproduction from a minimum of breeding pairs, I make it as easy as possible for the highly territorial birds to almost always have two sets of young (squabs and new eggs) going at the same time by providing well divided, easily defensible duplex nest boxes that eliminate time and effort otherwise wasted squabbling over nest sites.</p>
<p>One of the &#8220;duplexes&#8221;:</p>
<p>This shot shows my drop-down-for-cleaning nest box fronts. The bottom of each clean box is lined with a double layer of waxed paper (that doesn&#8217;t trap moisture like some materials) topped with a paper plate to keep the birds from tearing it up. That lets me lift virtually all of the two or three crap-cemented nests that are taken out with each cleaning free of the box in one lump that leaves little behind.</p>
<p>Our nesting material bin:</p>
<p>Pine needles are the best nesting material I&#8217;ve found, and a simple wire bin such as this lets the birds get what they need without as much waste as other methods of offering it might create.</p>
<p>Inverted &#8220;V&#8221; perches help keep &#8216;em from crapping on each other:</p>
<p>Again, what works for me may not suit the next person&#8217;s needs at all, but after ten years of having pigeons and three years with this last loft, I&#8217;m not anxious to change a thing. Think I finally got it right.</p></blockquote>
<hr />
by  <strong> brittfans</strong> living in omaha you might consider keeping it close to a power source.In the winter its nice to to keep the waterer on a heater.My coop also sits on a concret pad if not my dogs would wear a hole to china trying to get a peak at the birds.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> ohiogsp</strong> The red rose lofts are soem of the bst small lofts out there. Here is a link to some post I made about mine. There is a link to the red rose site on the first link of mine.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5777&amp;highlight=">http://www.gundogforum.com/forum/viewto &#8230; highlight=</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8978&amp;highlight=">http://www.gundogforum.com/forum/viewto &#8230; highlight=</a></p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> As usual&#8230;.great responses!! I appreciate the info and links and will take a look at my back yard to see where the coop would work best this weekend.</p>
<p>Also, we get some pretty good snow and thunderstorms around here. How do these coops hold up in strong wind? Other than a heater on the water, is there anything else I should consider? Would it be beneficial to have some kind of storm cover for the front mesh area or will the blowing snow/rain not be an issue?</p>
<p>BTW &#8211; ohiogsp, that is one sharp lookin&#8217; GSP in your avatar!! What&#8217;s his story??</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Rick Hall</strong> Though I&#8217;d not mentioned it above, my loft is, in fact, anchored &#8211; and survived Hurricane Rita, which a lot of area structures didn&#8217;t. (Was a family joke that we should evacuate to the pigeon loft.)</p>
<p>The birds love rain in decent weather, and will crowd the wire to bask in it, and the nesting boxes have never, to my knowledge gotten wet. But, as noted above, I&#8217;d want to add removable panels over most of the wire if harsh winters were a concern.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> ezzy333</strong> Here in the North I would have it enclosed in the winter. My loft is totally enclosed with 4 south facing windows that can be opened and then I usean outdoor avary for the summer months. I do have the ridge roll vents and 4 closeable vents at floor level.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> luke0927</strong> I need to place my johnny house converted to a pigeon coop&#8230;.i used to keep it on the edge of one of my training fields but the everytime we are at the field they want to go to it and have peak(at least when the quail were in it)&#8230;.i have open places on my property to put it and wooded places i would think out in the open would be better as it would give them more protection from hawks sitting on a limb just waiting to swoop one up&#8230;thoughts?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Rick Hall</strong> Before I got a handle on avoiding hawk losses, the great majority of mine took place under large trees.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> ohiogsp</strong> Yes, the more open the better for hawks. You can make a fold open door on the front of my style loft. I usually cover the front section of mine with plastic in the winter. I also put 2&#215;4&#8242;s to the ground from the aviaryies of mine cause I had one flip one time. This has stoped it so far. The dog in my avatar is my dog B.A. he is a very nice dog. He has a Senior hunter title. He got that title in 4 of 5 runs. He had a very bad call in the one he failed. I am sure I could get a master on him now but havent been doing any tests for a long time. He comes from local hunting lines but one of the best NSTRA dogs in the county come from some of those same lines. He is awelsome on wild birds and probably the best dog I will ever own.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> smackerquacker</strong> Here is my bird pen that I worked on over the weekend.</p>
<p>3000 gallon capacity, about 9&#8242; tall and 8&#8242; diameter. I have not done anything with the interior yet, or put in the trap door. I am open to suggestions. I thought about dividing it a little and having some quail in there as well. I will need to get some interior photos. Obviously this may be an eyesore if I lived in town. I drilled about 10 1&#8243; holes in the bottom for any water to drain out and am thinking about a trap door or something so I can just hose it out. There are 5 of those windows, 9&#8243; x 18&#8243; and the fill hole on top is about 18&#8243; in diameter to allow ventilation. I save the cutouts and could easily put in a few in cold weather.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> sjohnny</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>Rick Hall wrote:</cite>Sharing a yard with your loft should have no influence your dog&#8217;s reaction to the birds outside their loft. (I&#8217;ve had a loft in my yard for years, and my dogs&#8217; kennels at the lodge are all of thirty feet from our preserve bird pens.)</p></blockquote>
<p>Wish I&#8217;d read this before I relocated a 7&#8242;x7&#8242; garden shed to the other side of my property last week. I&#8217;m planning to convert it into a bird house and didn&#8217;t want it in a side yard to which the dog has access. Oh well, you live and learn.</p>
<p>John</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> Is there an ideal direction to face a coop here in the midwest??</p>
<p>Ideally, I&#8217;d like to face the coop SW so the birds would be facing the field behind our house but this would get the brunt of our thunderstorms as well&#8230;.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> brittfans</strong> The birds like the most sun they can get.South to south east would be better but they are a tough bird and they should addapt.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> Thanks. If you&#8217;re coop&#8217;s working out well, would you mind if I took a peek??</p>
<hr />
<h1>I just got my first real gun dog&#8230;.. now what?</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=26247">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=26247</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> wills1235</strong> I just moved to Eastern Washington. I&#8217;ve made a good friend and we hunt over his German Wirehairs. I&#8217;ve been searching for a GSP and my fiancee reserved me a puppy for my birthday. I haven&#8217;t trained a dog in 10 years. I really want to do right by my first GSP (my dream dog) and have many, many great hunts, as well as a great companion. What do I do next. I have 12 acres and plenty of pheasant wings in the freezer.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> APATZ_GSP</strong> Not the most knowing on here but i got a pup to and alot will tell you to let it be a pup and invest in huntsmith dvd puppy 1 and 2 and or the perfect start/ perfect finish dvd&#8217;s by perfection kennels. and welcome to the forum</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> RayGubernat</strong> Read several different training books and watch a couple of videos.</p>
<p>Then pick an approach that makes sense to you and that you feel comfortable with, make a plan and go out and do it.</p>
<p>I would pretty much toss those pheasant wings. Dogs are supposed to hunt for birds&#8230;not bird parts.</p>
<p>If you want to do something constructive between now and then, set up a pigeon coop and get some homers going. Pigeons are quite possibly the best training bird you can have for a youngster. For a puppy, only an ample supply of wild birds is better, IMO.</p>
<p>RayG</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> redman25</strong> What they said. Especially what Ray said about the pigeons. I waited to find birds and now it&#8217;s a constant struggle. Click on the puppy mistakes link on the opening page of this site&#8230;&#8230;lot&#8217;s of good info there.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Ruffshooter</strong> Ditto: Get rid of the pheasant wings after you play one or two times with them.</p>
<p>Basic household obedience, lots of walks and exploring. Let the pup learn about the out doors, about its own tools, nose eyes etc. Let it chase tweeties, butterlfylyes snow flakes. Don&#8217;t talk or try to encourage the dog too much. In other words just go for walks. Let it learn. Lots of good socializtion, people, animals, other dogs other places, different fields and woods etc. A well socialized pup, a pup that is left to learn its own capabilities and tools will be a more independent, confident dog. Keep the pup safe. Enjoy the journey.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> ultracarry</strong> The more he or she runs the better they sleep:). That&#8217;s what I live by now. What I would do is check out some events around your area and talk with pros and trainers about what you should do. I learned a lot yesterday by talking to some people. Don&#8217;t matter if its a visa club.. gsp guys are everywhere.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Don</strong> Ya got nailed on those wings pertty quick and rightfully so, toss&#8217;em. Good time to build a loft and stock it. Doesn&#8217;t need to be real big, about one square foot per bird. They can be built with scrap material too. Where are you in Eastern Washington?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Chukar12</strong> Wills,</p>
<p>Ray said it all&#8230;<br />
BTW Craigslist is a good start for pigeons</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> wills1235</strong> Thanks for all the info. I especially like the one about letting the dog get out and explore and learn about the world.</p>
<p>Books are on order. I&#8217;ve got the following coming:<br />
&#8220;How to Have The Best Trained Gun Dog, Taking Advantage of Proven, Unique Training Methods, All Natural &#8211; No Expensive Electronics Needed&#8221;<br />
&#8220;The German Shorthaired Pointer: a Hunter&#8217;s Guide&#8221;<br />
&#8220;How to Help Gun Dogs Train Themselves, Taking Advantage of Early Condtioned Learning&#8221;<br />
Any other suggestions?</p>
<p>Pigeons are no problem, got a barn full of &#8216;em. Just need to trap a few, and my chickens are about to need a bigger coop, so maybe I&#8217;ll move pigeons into the old one. I&#8217;ve also got Quail, Hun, and Pheasant living on the property, once dog training season opens.</p>
<p>I was surprised by the responses regarding the pheasant wings. I thought they were supposed to be a good tool, especially for teaching soft mouth and getting the dog used to retrieving feathers.</p>
<p>And I&#8217;m in Dayton, half an hour east of Walla Walla, for whoever was asking. If you&#8217;re in the neighborhood and want to get out hunting let me know!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> wills1235</strong> Also I&#8217;ve got a good line on a trainer- GWP breeder, but if anyone knows of another good pointer trainer in eastern Washington, please let me know so I can compare.</p>
<hr />
<h1>Raising quail/chukar</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=24856">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=24856</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> desertcountrygsp</strong> Trying to find out what would be better to raise here in northern arizona. We have temps in the winter ranging from 15 degrees and summer temps 105+. I already have a pigeon cage that I am going to convert to a quail/chukar pen with a fly cage. I can raise bob whites in arizona without a license. anyone had experience raising either bird type?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> quailrunner</strong> I am doing the exact same thing, converting a pigeon coop to a setup for quail. I have had both bobwhites and chukars in the past and I don&#8217;t think the weather will be your main concern since they have the coop to get out of the rain and snow (what little we get these days). I am in Central New Mexico and our temps. are about the same as yours.<br />
Since pigeons carry all kinds of nasty little diseases and worms, I am going to move my coop to a new location in the yard, sterilize as best I can the coop with a diluted bleach, then start off with about 100 bobwhite. I like the bobs better because they recall so easily, and if you want to hatch your own eggs, to me they are easier. Cholera seems to be the disease to watch out for quail that are kept on the ground, so keeping the cage clean and I think the more southern the exposure the better. My last batch of bobs (which was a few years ago) died suddenly. About 30 birds were doing great one day and the next they were toast. I believe it was due to the cage being on the west side of a building and under a tree, so the ground didn&#8217;t see much sun.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> snips</strong> I have heard you cannot raise Chuker on the ground.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Wildweeds</strong> I&#8217;m really quite certain that this is horse feathers,I&#8217;ve raised them on the ground in three different locations over the course of the last 18 years, My soil at all three places was well drained however,Chukars are easier to raise than bobs IMO but they eat more feed.Fact is my buddy and I just started a business for the kids to run raising gamebirds for sale for training and selling to field trialers/hunt testers. We&#8217;ve got chukars,pheasants,bobwhites and Valley quail.Construction on a 100 foot by 50 foot by 17 foot tall flight pen is slated for later next month.</p>
<p>Pigeons are nasty things and before I was to try raising gamebirds I&#8217;d clean it out spotless and give it a bath in bleach or One Stroke Envirion which kills all bacteria that cause diesease.</p>
<blockquote><p><cite>snips wrote:</cite>I have heard you cannot raise Chuker on the ground.</p></blockquote>
<hr />
by  <strong> mcbosco</strong> I may do this with someone. This weekend I bought three pathetic Coturnix for $20 only to have them grabbed by a Park Ranger even before I took them out of the box: &#8220;illegal to release game birds here&#8221; he told me and now I have a ticket to pay.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> mm</strong> Whats the fine on that. I was told here in my state non native game birds are ok to release and even shoot all year long. But for Bobwhites you need a license to own or breed.<br />
mm</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> mcbosco</strong> I am not sure what the fine is as I didn&#8217;t call. There are 11 designated areas where dogs may be trained with live birds and the county park where I got nailed is not one. Even on those you need a special permit, well really its a receipt that you bought the birds from a licensed bird dealer. I didn&#8217;t have that either.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> birddog1968</strong> Northern bobs can be somewhat fragile&#8230;.if you were set on using quail I would try and get my hands<br />
on some Wisconsin Jumbo quail.</p>
<p>The chukar are pretty easy to raise, much more hardy than northern bobs. Wisconsin Jumbos are about<br />
the same as Chukar. They are lively tough lil birds and work great for training purposes. They will only get to jumbo size if fed hard&#8230;.otherwise just a little bigger than Northerns but about twice as hardy.</p>
<p>Any birds can be raised on the ground but disease will be a problem in wet climates&#8230;.also best to salt the ground to keep capillary worms and other parasites down if raised on dirt.</p>
<p>I raised jumbos and chukar commercially by the thousands, and all my birds were on wire, but you can raise on dirt if you pay close attention to sanitation and disease prevention. Rock Salt helps alot raising birds on the ground&#8230;dissolve in warm water and spray with a backpack type sprayer. Make sure you rinse you sprayer well before and after. +1 on the bleach washdown before getting started as well.</p>
<hr />
<h1>pigeon coop</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=13853">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=13853</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> weim-owner</strong> Does anybody have design plans (or pics) for a pigeon coop.. something that will hold 6-12 birds. Any info would be great.<br />
Thanks</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Brittguy</strong> try this link for ideas. <a href="http://www.redroselofts.com/starter_loft.htm">http://www.redroselofts.com/starter_loft.htm</a> scroll down to the page and there are a lot of lofts.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> If you have the room and $$, those redrose lofts look great. I decided to start small and am going with one like this:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.uplandbirddog.com/training/loft.html">http://www.uplandbirddog.com/training/loft.html</a></p>
<hr />
by  <strong> littleking</strong> <a href="http://www.huntohio.net/index.php?t=msg&amp;th=4212&amp;start=0&amp;">http://www.huntohio.net/index.php?t=msg &#8230; 2&amp;start=0&amp;</a></p>
<hr />
by  <strong> utahmomof4</strong> Lion Country Supply also sells plans for a coop that looks pretty simple, but functional.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Higgins</strong> Here is a picture of a nice, small coop. The plans are well detailed and include step by step instructions. A materials list is included too. I&#8217;ve had clients build this one off the plans and it went together real well.</p>
<p>Click on the link then scroll down. The coop plans are the last thing on the page.<br />
<a href="http://www.higginsgundogs.com/store.htm">http://www.higginsgundogs.com/store.htm</a></p>
<p>Brad Higgins<br />
Higgins Gundogs<br />
Home of the Higgins Remote Releaser</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> luke0927</strong> im working on one of the redrose lofts now&#8230;i have made few altercations but very similar.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> JakeDD</strong> Can&#8217;t believe nobody has linked back to the GDF Hall of Fame pigeon post.<br />
It&#8217;s titled &#8220;Starting with Pigeons&#8221; &#8211; you can find it <a href="http://www.gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=100&amp;t=12156">HERE</a><br />
It may not have the exact setup you&#8217;re looking for, but some great information and coop ideas.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> mtlee</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>utahmomof4 wrote:</cite>Lion Country Supply also sells plans for a coop that looks pretty simple, but functional.</p></blockquote>
<p>I&#8217;ve got these plans in .pdf file. If you want them PM your email address and I&#8217;ll send them to you.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> MillerClemsonHD</strong> I used these plans from Matt. If you go this route PM me and I will give you some tips to make life much easier when building it. I can send you some pictures of the finished product as well.</p>
<blockquote><p><cite>mtlee wrote:</cite></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>utahmomof4 wrote:</cite>Lion Country Supply also sells plans for a coop that looks pretty simple, but functional.</p></blockquote>
<p>I&#8217;ve got these plans in .pdf file. If you want them PM your email address and I&#8217;ll send them to you.</p></blockquote>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> How about posting the pics??</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> Here&#8217;s a pic of MillerClemsonHD&#8217;s coop&#8230;..</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> ohiogsp</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>Nebraska wrote:</cite>Here&#8217;s a pic of MillerClemsonHD&#8217;s coop&#8230;..</p></blockquote>
<p>I like your coop but one thing I would change is the roof should overhang alot more on the edges. If it rains in the coop and it is wet your birds will get sick (respitory infection). Nice coop.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> MillerClemsonHD</strong> Thanks. I just followed the directions but see what you are saying and will make that change. Always have some spare plywood around. There are quite a few things I would do differently if I built it again which I will probably build another one eventually</p>
<p>I like your coop but one thing I would change is the roof should overhang alot more on the edges. If it rains in the coop and it is wet your birds will get sick (respitory infection). Nice coop.[/quote]</p>
<hr />
<h1>OLD PIGEON COOP</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&amp;t=4073">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&amp;t=4073</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> snips</strong> We have an old pigeon coop we would give away if anyone wants it. It is about 9&#8242; long, 3&#8242; high, and 3&#8242; deep. Would fit in a pick up. It has a door in front with the bars in it for return. Does not have legs on it, needs legs. Has an old brood boxes in it, they are n pretty bad shape.Needs a little wire work.</p>
<hr />
<h1>Training springer for rabbits? (kinda long)</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=22967">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&amp;t=22967</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> Netzapper</strong> (First post here. I apologize if I&#8217;m unaware of appropriate conventions.)</p>
<p>My wife and I bought an excellently bred field-line springer spaniel puppy in January. He&#8217;s now almost six months old. Initially, I had no intention of hunting him and so just did the usual housepet obedience training (at which he&#8217;s been quite satisfactory). But, he&#8217;s so well bred that he desperately *wants* to hunt. Everything from leaves in the wind to songbirds to anything he scents in the brush&#8211;he thinks raccoons are, perhaps, a bit too large. He naturally, if inefficiently, quarters on ours walks. He has a proud, cheerful natural retrieve that just melts your heart. Excellent pup. It&#8217;d be a crying shame to let all that go to waste. So I decided I&#8217;d take him hunting&#8211;I shoot anyway, just haven&#8217;t hunted.</p>
<p>But what do I hunt? This is for the dog to utilize his natural talents, and provide an excuse to wander fields with a shotgun. I don&#8217;t really want to deal with bag limits and seasons, or small, sparse populations. Not to mention I&#8217;m not really a big fan of the taste of fowl in general, although game meat is better than most. So after reviewing the relevant state game regulations, and my cookbooks, I settled on rabbit. They&#8217;re underhunted and overpopulated many places. A spaniel will flush them. And based on childhood BB gun experiences in suburbia, I reckon they&#8217;re fun to hunt.</p>
<p>This&#8217;ll be the first hunting dog I&#8217;ve trained. This is also the first dog I&#8217;ve had in my adult life. So at least for some sort of starting point for building a training program, I bought the book &#8220;Hup!&#8221; by James(?) Spencer. I&#8217;d be proud to walk a dog with even half the skills described in that book. His technique seems quite reasonable, as well, if expensive in pigeons. But therein lies the conundrum: a pigeon is a bird, which is not a rabbit.</p>
<p>Should I use rabbits? Hobbled bunnies in place of clipped pigeons? How do I dizzy a bunny? (For that matter, how does one dizzy a pigeon?)</p>
<p>Or should I train on birds? If I train on birds, do I have the potential to teach him to hunt both birds *and* rabbits? Will I be able to, in some way, indicate that today we&#8217;re hunting pheasant, but tomorrow we&#8217;re hunting wabbit? Or would every pheasant hunt also be a rabbit hunt? (I&#8217;d be fine with any of those answers, frankly.)</p>
<p>Please, give me your advice. I need to know whether I&#8217;m saving up for a pigeon coop or rabbit hutches. Or if I&#8217;m totally off base and need some completely different training scheme entirely.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Ditch__Parrot</strong> dizzy bunnies Thanks for the chuckle its been a long day I needed that.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ll try to help a little. Little different perspective since I have pointing dogs and you have a flusher but I&#8217;ll give it a shot. First off I can&#8217;t imagine using any dizzy bunnies for training. Birds you just tuck their head under their wing, pull their feet out straight and rock or shake them a bit and they pass right out.</p>
<p>I break my dogs off of rabbits but I have a friend that regularly hunts rabbits with his pointing dog, and i&#8217;ve enjoyed shooting bunnies over him numerous times. I&#8217;m pretty sure the same general principles would apply for flushers. There is no way to tell the dog one day we hunt one thing the next day something else. My buddy regularly hunts pheasant, quail, and rabbits at the same time. Usually you can tell by the way the dog is acting rather if its a rabbit (little less excited) or a bird they are scenting, but sometimes its just a suprise when you flush. I guess i&#8217;ve just used way too many words to say that the dog is expected to handle his bunnies just like a bird.</p>
<p>I think the biggest thing with hunting rabbits with a flusher would be training the dog to sit when they flush. This would be for safetey. Most of the people that I have bird hunted with that had flushers never trained to that degree. With the bunnies it would be essential though. IMO</p>
<p>Congrats on the pup. Welcome to the world of gun dogs.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Netzapper</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>Ditch__Parrot wrote:</cite>I think the biggest thing with hunting rabbits with a flusher would be training the dog to sit when they flush. This would be for safetey. Most of the people that I have bird hunted with that had flushers never trained to that degree. With the bunnies it would be essential though. IMO</p>
<p>Congrats on the pup. Welcome to the world of gun dogs.</p></blockquote>
<p>I think you&#8217;re absolutely correct. With a bird, they&#8217;re pretty likely to take flight at some point, right? So you can shoot (literally) over the dog at the bird (even in training). A partially trained spaniel could still hunt birds. With a rabbit, he&#8217;ll need to reliably hup on flush for me to have any shot whatsoever.</p>
<p>That actually helps me in my overall conundrum. If a bird-trained dog will hunt rabbit, maybe it&#8217;s better to train him on birds in the first place. I did see a great Afghan recipe for squab.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Sharon</strong> Seems to me he needs the same training as we train the beagle &#8211; rabbit pen at a local beagle club and lots of experience in the woods on rabbit. I&#8217;d be looking at some Beagle Training Books. I know he can&#8217;t track like a beagle but the rabbit introduction could be the same.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> jimbo&amp;rooster</strong> I would imagine that if rabbits are over populated as you say that you should be able to find some public or private ground where there are a bunch of bunnies and just let the pup run. the pup will eventually start to bump the bunnies and chse them. for a while id just let the pup chase. you can worry about sit to flush later. my lab will flush and retrieve rabbits while we are out hunting quail and pheasants the fun thing is she&#8217;ll even retrieve the bunnies to hand (never owned a beagle that would retrieve) . the dog wont be able to differentiate between birds and bunnies you will just have some bonus flushes on birds from time to time. good luck<br />
Jim</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> WiskeyJaR</strong> I would think using the CC would come in handy here. In side a large pen or yard, using the CC to teach sit or &#8220;HUP&#8221; on flush. Inside a fenced area so you can &#8220;recycle&#8221; the rabbit. Maybe use a bird launcher with a weaken spring so as not to fling the rabbit sky high when launched&#8230;)</p>
<p>I too am training me dog to hunt both rabbits and birds. The thing Im worried about most when interducing me pup to a live rabbit, is if the pup tries to retrive a live rabbit and the rabbit starts kicking is the claws scratching the pup up, and causing the pup to start to balk at a rabbit, or to become &#8220;hard mouth&#8221; to kill rabbit, whitch isnt what you want when working with birds.</p>
<p>Keep us posted on how your training is coming.</p>
<p>WiskeyJaR</p>
<hr />
<h1>Building your first pigeon coop&#8230;..</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=100&amp;t=15397">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=100&amp;t=15397</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> Thought I&#8217;d post some pics of my coop in case anyone was considering building one of their own.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve haven&#8217;t had pigeons in it very long but one of the females is already sitting on a couple eggs so hopefully I&#8217;ll have some young ones to home to my coop by next spring/summer. It was a lot of fun and the design was pretty efficient so it wasn&#8217;t too spendy either&#8230;&#8230;hope you get some ideas from this for one of your own!!!</p>
<p>Gettin&#8217; started&#8230;.two sheets of plywood are enough for all four walls.</p>
<p>Put 2x4s on the bottom to stengthen the legs and support the floor&#8230;.</p>
<p>Put in a couple 2x4s across the back to support the shelves and put in the floor&#8230;..(dauther thought I should turn it into a playhouse!!)</p>
<p>Put in the nesting box divider and rest of the supports for the shelves&#8230;.</p>
<p>I subcontracted out the tough stuff&#8230;..</p>
<p>Cut the doors with the circular saw, added some perches and hinges and then cut them the rest of the way open with a jig saw (much easier that doing hinges on a loose door)&#8230;.</p>
<p>I painted the inside and out while it was open&#8230;..(not that it matters that much )</p>
<p>I screwed on the top and built the aviary and loaded it with birds&#8230;..</p>
<p>I put plywood on both sides and and across the top of the aviary so I only had to use one roll of mesh and doors on both sides of the wire cage for easy access&#8230;&#8230;</p>
<p>From the door on the right side&#8230;..large &#8220;bullet feeder and grit container.</p>
<p>From the door on the left side&#8230;..large galvanized drinker with stand and heater (cord goes out the door in the floor).</p>
<p>One happy camper is already sitting on a clutch so we must have done something right with the nesting bowls and pine needles&#8230;..</p>
<p>Pigeon on the right has feathers on her feet. Not sure what kind she is but she&#8217;s super friendly so I think we&#8217;ll keep her&#8230;&#8230;.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ll give ya one guess why there&#8217;s a brown ring in the grass around the coop&#8230;&#8230;</p>
<p>Don&#8217;t take these as gospel but this is what I came up with after running a quick tape on my coop&#8230;..</p>
<p>(I used 5/8ths plywood)</p>
<p>Walls -<br />
Cut from 4&#215;8&#8242; sheets (96&#8243;)</p>
<p>Front &#8211; 52&#8243;H makes Back &#8211; 44&#8243;H and 48&#8243;W</p>
<p>Sides (cut from same sheet by starting at 52&#8243; and cutting at an angle to the 44&#8243; mark on the other side)<br />
52&#8243;H in front and 44&#8243;H in back and 48&#8243;W</p>
<p>Roof 56&#8243; x 48&#8243;W<br />
Floor 48&#8243; x 46 3/4&#8243;</p>
<p>Nest boxes -<br />
Middle Support for boxes &#8211; 14&#8243; Deep and 43 1/4&#8243; H in front angling down to 41&#8243; H in back (cut using side as template for angle)<br />
Box platforms &#8211; 23 1/2&#8243; W by 14&#8243; D (Box heights = 14&#8243;H)<br />
I used 1x4s for supports under each box (on sides and middle support), 2x4s supporting box bottoms in back, 1x4s (or 1x3s) along front of the nest boxes</p>
<p>Frame<br />
Legs &#8211; 8 foot 2x4s (4 each)<br />
Floor/Ceiling support will take four 2x4s</p>
<p>Aviary overall = 28&#8243;Tx33D&#8221;x36&#8243;W (Mesh roll used = 36&#8243; x 10&#8242;)<br />
Frame is 2x2s<br />
4 &#8211; 36&#8243; for top/bottom on front and back<br />
8 &#8211; 30&#8243; front to back<br />
7 &#8211; 25&#8243; supporting roof/floor</p>
<p>plywood across top of aviary &#8211; 37 1/2&#8243; W &#8211; 12&#8243; D<br />
plywood on sides of aviary &#8211; 28&#8243;H &#8211; 16 1/2&#8243; D</p>
<p>Doors<br />
Aviary &#8211; 20&#8243;T x 11&#8243;W<br />
Side &#8211; 26&#8243;T x 17&#8243;W<br />
Trap door and door to aviary &#8211; 10&#8243;T x 12&#8243;W<br />
Bottom &#8211; 10&#8243;T x 10&#8243;W</p>
<p>Easy perches = 5&#8243; 1&#215;4 screwed to end of 4&#8243; 2&#215;4</p>
<p>**Update**<br />
I have several birds laying eggs/hatching chicks so the coop is working well&#8230;..</p>
<p>A couple new additions (#5/#6)</p>
<p>I added a &#8220;Settling Cage&#8221; per OhioGSP&#8217;s thread (pieced together from some wire fence I had sitting around) to get my birds oriented to the trap door without having to let them out just yet. They&#8217;re diggin&#8217; it big time&#8230;&#8230;</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s a pic from their first release away from the coop&#8230;&#8230;</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> natetnc</strong> is it painted white so the pigeons can see it better?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>natetnc wrote:</cite>is it painted white so the pigeons can see it better?</p></blockquote>
<p>Either that or so my neighbors can tell where all the stray pigeons are coming from&#8230;..</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> briguyz71</strong> Very nice job. You look a little younger than I thought when I saw you with that drill . I was wondering what you use for grit?<br />
Thanks,<br />
Bri</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> WiskeyJaR</strong> nice looking coop. I see your dogs have inspected your handy work already eh?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> AZ Brittany Guy</strong> Very nice job! Just like mine only more professional. I used hardweare colth for the floor.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Don</strong> I thought you were over here. Very nice job. Just one question, whats the door in the bottom for? also as I recall, it doesn&#8217;t look like you have a preditor door for the re-entry. Great job though!!!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> Hi Don,</p>
<p>I thought the pic of your pointer looked familiar! I put the door in the bottom so I could push the scrapings into a 5 gallon bucket when it&#8217;s time to clean. That&#8217;s also where I have the cord come out for the heated drinker. So far, it&#8217;s just as easy to scoop the scrapings from the side so skipping the door in the floor wouldn&#8217;t be a big deal.</p>
<p>The predator door is on there, it&#8217;s just not easy to see from the pics. In the last pic, you can see that it&#8217;s closed; and when it&#8217;s open, it lays on the platform across the top of the aviary&#8230;</p>
<p>Take care,<br />
Jeff</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> GWP-Fritz</strong> Thank you for posting this!</p>
<p>I just finished a similar coop. I looked at your design and tried to copy it. It was easy to put together but then I had to find some friends to help me move it into place. I painted it with extra paint we had around and left most of the roof white on top.</p>
<p>I put the birds in and they seem to approve, though the dogs won&#8217;t leave it alone.</p>
<p>I am going try to post pictures of it.</p>
<p>Thanks again!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> AZ Brittany Guy</strong> [quote="GWP-Fritz"]Thank you for posting this!</p>
<p>I just finished a similar coop. I looked at your design and tried to copy it. It was easy to put together but then I had to find some friends to help me move it into place&#8221;</p>
<p>To help move it to different locations, I put handles on either side and it really helps.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> Nice work! I bet the birds will like that extra large aviary&#8230;..</p>
<p>Not sure about you but I attached mine to the coop with screws but think I&#8217;m going to secure it with some 1/2&#8243; bolts once it gets warmer to esure it doesn&#8217;t go anywhere once we start getting severe T-storms and the heavy Spring winds&#8230;.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> ezzy333</strong> I think I would put a couple of legs under the front of it to keep the whole thing from tipping forward in a wind.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> I used a post hole digger to set the legs on my coop ~ 2 feet in the ground so unless a storm/tornado rips it apart, it shouldn&#8217;t be going anywhere&#8230;..</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> GWP-Fritz</strong> I planted mine in the ground about 18&#8243; as well. I just got a new post hole digger for my tractor and I wanted to use it. We have had some pretty strong winds (gusts up to 50mph last week) and it was fine. I have considered legs for the aviary because if we get a huge snow i was worried about the weight. The way I attached the aviary was with screws and when I put the 2&#215;4 on the front where the door to the aviary is I put a strip of plywood behind them so the aviary actually slid on and the 2&#215;4 hold it in place. I don&#8217;t know if you can see it from the pictures but I can post a picture of it. I did it that way so I didn&#8217;t need someone to hold it while I screwed it in.</p>
<p>The birds seem to really like the aviary and I am just waiting on some nesting bowls.</p>
<p>Adam</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> postoakshorthairs</strong> Either of you guys have a materials list or a cost estimate?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>postoakshorthairs wrote:</cite>Either of you guys have a materials list or a cost estimate?</p></blockquote>
<p>I just edited in dimensions to the original post&#8230;&#8230;hope that helps!!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> gdog</strong> I built my first one like shown in the previous pics, then decided I wanted one I could walk into, but still not take up a ton of space:</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> GWP-Fritz</strong> I don&#8217;t remember exactly what I spent or used because it took a few trips to the hardware store but here is a close summary.</p>
<p>4 Sheets of Plywood &#8211; 2 for the walls, 1 for roof and misc., 1 for floor and misc (misc being shelves, perches, and aviary) I might have also used some scrap I had.<br />
8-10 2&#215;4&#8242;s &#8211; Legs, framing, shelves<br />
6 2&#215;2&#8242;s &#8211; aviary framing<br />
1 roll of hardware cloth for aviary<br />
5 sets of latches and hinges for doors on coop, aviary, and for door covering bobs<br />
1 set of bobs I bought online<br />
1 can Kilz<br />
1 can extra paint I had laying around or you could buy a screw up can from store</p>
<p>That is all I can think of when I go through what all I bought at the store. Like I said it took me a few trips because I didn&#8217;t want to over do it and have to take stuff back and there is a big box store down the street.</p>
<p>One word of advise I picked up from the original post was to cut the doors but not all the way and then install the hardware. I read that after I did the first one and you can tell a difference between the doors.</p>
<p>I hope this helps.<br />
Adam</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> DoubleB20</strong> Very nice, I have a question. How do you catch the birds when it&#8217;s time for training? My coop now is smaller and it seems like I spend almost as much time trying to catch the birds in the coop as do I do using them for training. One word of experience, my dogs love to stand by the coop and catch the pigeon&#8217;s when they are free flying. The entry door is about 4 1/2 feet off the ground and the dogs have caught 4 pigeons this week.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> ezzy333</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>DoubleB20 wrote:</cite>Very nice, I have a question. How do you catch the birds when it&#8217;s time for training? My coop now is smaller and it seems like I spend almost as much time trying to catch the birds in the coop as do I do using them for training. One word of experience, my dogs love to stand by the coop and catch the pigeon&#8217;s when they are free flying. The entry door is about 4 1/2 feet off the ground and the dogs have caught 4 pigeons this week.</p></blockquote>
<p>You won&#8217;t have pigeons for long as they are smart enough to find a safe place to go plus you are setting your dogs back rapidly as that is exactly what you should be spending your time training them not to do.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> postoakshorthairs</strong> Guys,<br />
Thanks for the dimensions and list. I just wanted a rough idea of the cost before diving in (aka&#8230;knowing if i could sneak it by my wife ) I really like the looks of the one gdog built and the use of the metal studs but where do the dogs return? I prob just couldn&#8217;t see in the pics.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> dlfl</strong> I would think that a butterfly net or pole crab net would work to catch the birds. We used a pole crab net at a pet store I worked at to catch the birds that got loose.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> gdog</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>postoakshorthairs wrote:</cite>Guys,<br />
Thanks for the dimensions and list. I just wanted a rough idea of the cost before diving in (aka&#8230;knowing if i could sneak it by my wife ) I really like the looks of the one gdog built and the use of the metal studs but where do the dogs return? I prob just couldn&#8217;t see in the pics.</p></blockquote>
<p>I need to post up a new pic with the return entry. Looking at the front of the coop, I put the door in the side of the aveary on the lft hand side with a platform. It works great.</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s a link to more pics of the build: <a href="http://arappl.smugmug.com/gallery/3319486_9jYPJ#184704114_DCbRv">http://arappl.smugmug.com/gallery/3319486_9jYPJ#184704114_DCbRv</a></p>
<hr />
by  <strong> postoakshorthairs</strong> great pictures. I appreciate the insight. Son loves your dog by the way.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> gspmo1</strong> Very nice looking pigeon coops! Thanks for all the pics and instructions, I&#8217;m going to try building one in the near future</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> Matching the stain on your coop and fence was a good idea. Nice design and sharp lookin&#8217; to boot&#8230;..</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> gdog</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>Nebraska wrote:</cite>Matching the stain on your coop and fence was a good idea. Nice design and sharp lookin&#8217; to boot&#8230;..</p></blockquote>
<p>Ha..funny..that was to try and make the wife happy about the coop &#8220;blending&#8221; in</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> postoakshorthairs</strong></p>
<blockquote><p>Ha..funny..that was to try and make the wife happy about the coop &#8220;blending&#8221; in</p></blockquote>
<p>Amazing isn&#8217;t it, we try to pull one over on our wives so we can harbor birds considered a pest by most people in order to walk around in the cold with a furry friend and harrass them. Gotta love america!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> **Updated the original post to show the &#8220;Settling Cage&#8221; used to get the birds oriented to the trap door without having to let them fly**</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> bmacinok</strong> copied from another link in gun dog&#8230;..</p>
<p>Nebraska,</p>
<p>I started a coop last fall, built it and populated it with homers from a friend a couple of hours away. I have one side of it with some breeding pairs and the other side with the homers and a few ferals. I kept the homers in for several weeks, then trained them with a temporary aviary (with them using the bobs). I would feed them in the aviary, with the bobs up (see pic below), and just lower a bob each day over the period of a week. They got real familiar with that real quick. I also followed OhioGSP&#8217;s information as well as some in our local NAVHDA chapter&#8230;very good help and information. I was pretty unsure when I released them but they all came back. When I started flying them from farther away I lost several of my ferals, but I kind of expected that. I am now flying them about a mile away (where my training field is) and have lost only about 5 birds (we have a lot of hawks). My breeders are starting to produce so I am hoping production can keep up with the hawks.</p>
<p>Side view with temp aviary:</p>
<p>My automatic waterers. They are bowls that gravity feed from a 55 gal plastic barrel behind the coop. It is all connected with garden host ending up in the bowl. The valve is brass. It has weathered the freezes we have had so far, however they have not been terrible. I am hoping the hose will not burst but just expand, the bowl will not crack as it is rounded, and the valve will not have any issues as it is brass. Hoping&#8230;.</p>
<p>showing the water barrel:</p>
<p>Inside out looking at the bobs:</p>
<p>Bruce</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> That&#8217;s a great set-up&#8230;..I especially like your drinker.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> outhawkn</strong> that bird with the featherd legs is probably a tumbler of some sort. It will dilute your flocks homing ability if allowed to breed. In case you done know. Nice job!!!!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Hattrick</strong> ????? can you mix say chukers ,quail an pigeons in the same coop?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> DoubleB20</strong> This probably a dumb question, but does the color of the coop matter? Most of the one&#8217;s I see are white or light colored &#8211; didn&#8217;t know if that was on purpose or just what people had on hand.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> I painted mine white to reflect heat but I see &#8216;em painted lots of different colors so if you shooting to have it blend in with it&#8217;s surrounds by painting it a certain color, I&#8217;m sure you&#8217;d be fine.</p>
<p>To the other question, I don&#8217;t think that&#8217;s something that you&#8217;d want to do but I&#8217;ve never tried it. You&#8217;ll probably want to post that question in a new thread to get good info&#8230;..</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> MadMax</strong> I have a question for those of you that have coops. I am about to build my own, but am very concerned about health risks. How do you control mites? I&#8217;ve heard that is one of the major problems with pigeons, the second would be the droppings. Can they cause respiratory problems? How about my dogs, can they contract any illnesses from retrieving these birds? Any info would help.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> bmacinok</strong> My coop is painted a brown color to try and blend in with the trees. The pigeons have no problem coming back to it.</p>
<p>As far as droppings are concerned I just scoop them once in a while and put them in a trash bag. I know there is talk of possibly getting a respiratory issue, so I try to keep my mouth covered up when I am scooping.</p>
<p>Bruce</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Coveyrise64</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>MadMax wrote:</cite>I have a question for those of you that have coops. I am about to build my own, but am very concerned about health risks. How do you control mites? I&#8217;ve heard that is one of the major problems with pigeons, the second would be the droppings. Can they cause respiratory problems? How about my dogs, can they contract any illnesses from retrieving these birds? Any info would help.</p></blockquote>
<p>For mites a drop of Ivermection under each wing and/or each leg will do the trick. I also put a couple of drops of Ivermectin down the throat for internal parasites. I&#8217;m not sure how bmackinok is able to cover his mouth &#8230;.so I use a respirator. A dust mask will work but I prefer a little better protection.</p>
<p>Coveyrise64</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Jester</strong> i am finshing up a coop for what is the most part the same. how many birds can one keep in this set up as i have been offed 40 at no cost will this be to many?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> bmacinok</strong> Jester,</p>
<p>I don&#8217;t know what optimum is for pigeons, but in my coop (the brown one in this thread) I have had up to 50 birds. Right now I have about 30 and they are producing and seem to be doing just fine. All of these birds are homer/roller crosses. I keep my killer feral birds in a temporary cage that is an 8&#8242; x 4&#8242; x &#8217;4 frame using 2&#8243; x 4&#8243;s and 1/2&#8243; x 1&#8243; wire, with a tarp over the top and have had about 40 in it. Of course they don&#8217;t stay there for long&#8230;</p>
<p>bmacinok</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Nebraska</strong> IMO, 10 to 12 birds would be optimal.</p>
<p>I currently have 5 birds but I&#8217;ve had up to 20 birds in that coop (short-term) without any issues.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> imelda11</strong> Hey There!<br />
Its nice!<br />
I like it!<br />
Are you a Carpentre!?ehe<br />
Keep on posting!<br />
Thanks!&#8230;</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> jkoehler</strong> So when I get my coop built and put some pigeons in, how long should I keep them in before I use them for training so that they return? I plan on getting some birds that are about 100 miles away, will that keep them in my loft?<br />
What type of food? regular bird feed? crushed corn?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> bmacinok</strong> I transitioned adult birds from someone else&#8217;s coop, and most of the birds hung around. I did keep them in the coop for a couple of months, then only let them out in the evening right before dark so they would only fly for a bit then come back in to roost. Probably did that for a month then started taking them out further and further to get them used to homing. I did lose a few, just not sure if it was to them not homing or the hawks which we have a lot of.</p>
<p>If you start producing young they will definitely home to your coop.</p>
<p>I would use a pigeon mix from your local feed store. A lot of folks use just whatever, but I found I had problems with cracked corn on the young, seems they can&#8217;t handle the sharp edges in their craw.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Richard *UT*</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>jkoehler wrote:</cite>So when I get my coop built and put some pigeons in, how long should I keep them in before I use them for training so that they return? I plan on getting some birds that are about 100 miles away, will that keep them in my loft?<br />
What type of food? regular bird feed? crushed corn?</p></blockquote>
<p>Or you can look for &#8220;young Birds&#8221;. These birds are birds that can eat on thier own but have not been flown yet. That way you only have to wait a few weeks and then start letting them out close to dusk. I also feed a feed called pigeon checkers. Great feed, pigeons love it so that the bird home fast and don&#8217;t crap on the neighbors cars. Keeps every one happy and more importantly QUIET. If you have time, like now where you aren&#8217;t using the pigeons alot you can lock them up for a couple months.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> sh0rthair</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>bmacinok wrote:</cite> I did keep them in the coop for a couple of months, then only let them out in the evening right before dark so they would only fly for a bit then come back in to roost. Probably did that for a month then started taking them out further and further to get them used to homing. I did lose a few, just not sure if it was to them not homing or the hawks which we have a lot of.</p>
<p>If you start producing young they will definitely home to your coop.</p>
<p>I would use a pigeon mix from your local feed store. A lot of folks use just whatever, but I found I had problems with cracked corn on the young, seems they can&#8217;t handle the sharp edges in their craw.</p></blockquote>
<p>This is also how I transition new birds. However, I go 3 to 4 months instead of just a couple.<br />
If they lay eggs I let them out sooner.<br />
If I get young birds, I like it when they still have some (very few) yellow feathers (I&#8217;m having a brain fart for the proper term so I will call them Yellow feathers) on them. They are old enough to take care of themselves and they will home back to your coop.</p>
<p>There are many different choices when it comes to pigeon food.<br />
I feed a pigeon food with corn in the cold months and without corn in the warm/hot months.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Munster</strong> I am wondering if you cluld use some kind of a glossy finish board like waynescoat on the inside to aid in easier clean up? Or will the birds not really like that idea?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> ezzy333</strong> I used tempered hard board and some odd sheets of Merlite like they used to use around the bathtub. Its hard and glossy and needs little cleaning.</p>
<p>Ezzy</p>
<hr />
<h1>Photo contest &#8211; April</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=17539">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=17539</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> Rob</strong> So, we have been running a monthly picture contest with each month&#8217;s winner receiving their choice of a $25 Cabela&#8217;s gift card or a 1 year Premier subscription to GDF. There is also a possibility that their photos may appear in a calendar to benefit GDF if we can work out the details.</p>
<p>So far, here are the monthly winners:<br />
January:</p>
<p>February:</p>
<p>March:</p>
<p>Please, keep posting all of your wonderful shots. And rest assured, the submissions from previous months will remain under consideration going forward. Please post your new shots for April here. Deadline will be March 31st (more or less).</p>
<p>Also, if anyone has a suggestion for discussing the calendar idea with GDF, please PM me.</p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
Rob</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Winglish</strong> Here are a few of my buddies:</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> cjuve</strong> Here are a couple more they are of the same point just different angles</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> DoubleB20</strong> Beautiful Pictures &#8211; how about a Vizsla after a limit of snipe in Texas? This is Journey.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Rob</strong> DoubleB:</p>
<p>That is an awesome shot, and just the kind of thing we are looking for!</p>
<p>Rob</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> BoJack</strong> Rockin Elhew Doc-Headed for the grouse woods soon.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Rob</strong> I can never resist the puppy pics.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> kninebirddog</strong> someone say puppies</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> kninebirddog</strong></p>
<hr />
by  <strong> WildRose</strong> How about some four and five month old Shorthairs on wild birds?</p>
<p>Or &#8220;How to introduce your puppy to Horses&#8221;</p>
<p>&#8220;Hey, wanna be my friend&#8221;???, &#8220;Let&#8217;s Play&#8221;!</p>
<p>&#8220;Hmm I like the new &#8220;chew toy&#8221;&#8230;.</p>
<p>&#8220;C&#8217;mon, I said &#8220;Play, not Nap!&#8221;" !!!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Rob</strong> That horse definitely looks like it has been there before!</p>
<p>Rob</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> prairiefirepointers</strong> 7 weeks old.. First bird</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> osurugger15</strong> Here are a few. I love threads like this.<br />
<a href="http://s594.photobucket.com/albums/tt28/mcquillc/?action=view&amp;current=PIC_0005.jpg"></a><br />
<a href="http://s594.photobucket.com/albums/tt28/mcquillc/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_0041.jpg"></a><br />
<a href="http://s594.photobucket.com/albums/tt28/mcquillc/?action=view&amp;current=BeautifulNovemberDay.jpg"></a><br />
<a href="http://s594.photobucket.com/albums/tt28/mcquillc/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_0406.jpg"></a><br />
<a href="http://s594.photobucket.com/albums/tt28/mcquillc/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_2708.jpg"></a></p>
<hr />
by  <strong> gdog</strong> Puppy pics. 8 week old Pudelpointer.</p>
<p>Can you guess who picked out the pink collar?</p>
<p>**** Update &#8211; 13 weeks and getting big!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> wems2371</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>gdogweek old Pudelpointer. wrote:</cite>Can you guess who picked out the pink collar?</p></blockquote>
<p>Someone with excellent fashion sense. Great photos everybody.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> texscala</strong> Here is my pup on a wild chukar</p>
<p>Sorry about the giant beeper collar but as a starving college kid $20 on e-bay seemed about right and without it I would never find her.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> zodiakgsps</strong> 9 week old pup:</p>
<p>Same pup at 5mnths:</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> zodiakgsps</strong> Thought I&#8217;d put this one in too&#8230;this is the boy we lost 2 weeks ago, &#8220;Chief&#8221;.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> crackerd</strong> Counterbalancing all the pup photos&#8211;great shots, gdog&#8217;s in particular&#8211;here&#8217;s a 12-year-old doing what she&#8217;s done, oh, a couple thousand times before.</p>
<p>MG</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> BCA1228</strong></p>
<hr />
by  <strong> postoakshorthairs</strong> My dog Spook as the king of the bed</p>
<p>My daughter and her pup</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Rob</strong> Great stuff.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> DGFavor</strong> Holy cow!! Awesome stuff folks!!</p>
<blockquote><p>Here is my pup on a wild chukar</p></blockquote>
<blockquote><p>Sorry about the giant beeper collar</p></blockquote>
<p>That&#8217;s a for real workin&#8217; hunting dawg man wearin&#8217; &#8216;er uniform!!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> phermes1</strong> Not hunting &#8211; at least not for me.<br />
This was taken at the beach near my house. The pups like chasing pelicans.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> phermes1</strong> I took this photo of a friend&#8217;s dog, Bart. Bart lost a leg to osteosarcoma last summer. Since then, he&#8217;s finished his SH, earned 3 MH legs, (oh, the irony) a couple field trial placements &#8211; and won a halloween costume contest dressed as a pirate, complete with hook. His owner was naturally dressed up as his wench.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> zodiakgsps</strong> Phermes, that&#8217;s awesome, great pic!!! Nice to see they kept him in the field and he&#8217;s doing well!<br />
Shot from today, Tara with my old boy Mac backing her:</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Sharon</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>phermes1 wrote:</cite>I took this photo of a friend&#8217;s dog, Bart. Bart lost a leg to osteosarcoma last summer. Since then, he&#8217;s finished his SH, earned 3 MH legs, (oh, the irony) a couple field trial placements &#8211; and won a halloween costume contest dressed as a pirate, complete with hook. His owner was naturally dressed up as his wench.</p></blockquote>
<p>Isn&#8217;t that great!! Being a great dog is all about the things we can&#8217;t teach &#8211; like desire and heart.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Ridge-Point</strong> Ridge-Point Ruff-nTuff (left) and Ridge-Point Duke of Envy (right) showing thier stuff on the last weekend of Chukar season here in Oregon. The bird numbers were way down this year, so my Father decided to shoulder his shotgun and break out the camera. These two pups really worked hard this season and were rewarded for thier efforts. Duke is owned by Volraider and hunted this season with me in Oregon.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> EddieF</strong> Oh my, these two are very, very nice. This is going to be a beautiful calendar!!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Gordon Guy</strong></p>
<dl>
<dt></dt>
<dd><em>Taran&#8217;s Tallgrass Samie, Chukar hunting in OR</em></dd>
<dd>Samie Head Shot OR 1.JPG (188.26 KiB) Viewed 665 times</dd>
</dl>
<dl>
<dt></dt>
<dd><em>Tallgrass Pistol Pete, my 5 month old.</em></dd>
<dd>Pete Pointing Feb 09.JPG (154.48 KiB) Viewed 659 times</dd>
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by  <strong> h.q.s</strong> Ridge-Point:</p>
<p>You have some good lookin dogs there.</p>
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by  <strong> Bigsur009</strong> phermes&#8230;.must be a vizsla thing! mine does the same thing when he sees pelicans or little beach birds.</p>
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by  <strong> sfellc</strong> A few of my babies:</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Vonrommel</strong></p>
<hr />
by  <strong> bwjohn</strong> Here is a couple of my favorites.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> bwjohn</strong> Sorry, did not know how to resize those.</p>
<p>brandon</p>
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by  <strong> Rob</strong> Awesome stuff! I hope somebody can make a calendar happen &#8211; there are too many great photos here to go to waste.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> gdog</strong></p>
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by  <strong> gozz21</strong> Here are some pictures of my 8 month old shorthair. I thought I would post a couple of them from training last weekend.</p>
<p>let me know what you think</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> postoakshorthairs</strong> one more from the weekend</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Oscar</strong><br />
weimaraner RINGO ( ficture was in 1976 Tesar Lents )</p>
<p>My weimaraner Morgan with a hare in 1984</p>
<p>My golden Dora Midas Touch in water retriever.</p>
<p>Brawning retriving and Purdey Back ( no collar) . Picture was take in 92 Leika III F and ambar filter.</p>
<p>Purdey take a directions</p>
<p>I hope you like my old pictures.</p>
<p>Oscar CHávez<br />
Mexico.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> limited out</strong></p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Mntmaniac</strong></p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Ridge-Point</strong> Great shots everyone.</p>
<p>Mntmaniac those pictures are very nice.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> limited out</strong> I agree. Great shots! Mtnmaniac &#8211; I thought I could clear that second one up for you. I&#8217;m no expert, but I thought it gave it a fresh look. I also like the Sunset look&#8230; but thought I could still try anyway.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Mr. Crappie</strong> In my opinion everyone of these photos could be the cover of any hunting magazine. They are awesome!!</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> DGFavor</strong> Was hoping to come home with a potential winner from last set of field trials I went to but radiography took precedence over photography!!</p>
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by  <strong> jakemaster</strong> Dg we can wait for more of your great photo&#8217;s. Glad you are ok.that is a cool photo.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> brookzee</strong> yeah, heard about that doug. bbq at my place this weekend&#8230;&#8230;..RIBS and all the fixins&#8230;..ok, maybe it was a bad joke.</p>
<p>jason</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> firstchoicehardwood</strong> Our favorite place to relax and take a break from hunting!</p>
<hr />
<h1>Dog training in the city or suburbs?</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=14130">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=14130</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> JFS</strong> I have a 7 mo Brit I want to train as a gun dog (and I&#8217;m still learning myself). This morning I put my new copy of The Perfect Start in the DVD player to see what I can learn. My main take away so far is that I am swimming upstream with this- the video was full of images of wide open fields and releases of homers. I have no fields and no place to keep homers. I manage to keep a few quail in a small pen in my garage. The nearest public training fields are an hour away, so I have mostly my 1/4 acre backyard to work in. Shooting guns, even blank pistols, will be a challenge with the neighbors. While my heart is on the farm, my family is stuck in the city. My dog is my buddy and I have no interest in sending him off for long periods for others to train, especially if he will just lose the benefits upon retuning to an inadequate home schedule.</p>
<p>So maybe that&#8217;s life. You can&#8217;t learn to snow ski in Miami or reef dive in Kansas, and the city isn&#8217;t the place to train bird dogs. But I&#8217;m not willing to give up so easily. Maybe I can&#8217;t do it perfectly but I still want to try. I ordered some harnesses for the quail so I can recover them after flushing. I plan on getting up early one day a week and driving out the WMA to train where I can shoot. I can work on pure obedience skills during the week so that we can maximize whatever time we get in the field. But I&#8217;m not sure what else I can do given what I have to work with.</p>
<p>Has anyone else trained dogs in a similar situation? Have any tips or ideas on how to maximize training in a suburban environment? I would welcome all suggestions (short of moving, which is the obvious one but not possible until the kids get out of school). Thanks for any and all help.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Ryan Baumann</strong> build a little pigeon coop&#8230;. Go buy some pigeons and use a pigeon pole&#8230;.. You&#8217;ve got to do what you got to do&#8230;.. See how your dog does on them&#8230; adapt and over come&#8230;. then try to go out once every couple weeks to the training grounds and take some pigeons and make him hunt for them&#8230;. Your not down and out and theres nothing better than harvesting a bird over a dog you trained&#8230;. P.s. shoot the pigeons if you think he is ready when you take him where you can discharge a firearm&#8230;.</p>
<p>Ryan.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Greg Jennings</strong> Have you checked out the Central Georgia Pointing Dog Club? They used to have everything that you need.</p>
<p>You could do yard work off days and go work on birds a couple or three days a week. You&#8217;d be far ahead of many.</p>
<p>Right now, if the pup has had a good bird intro and is really interested in birds, you can lay off the pen birds till pup is a 12-15 months old.</p>
<p>I do 15 minutes or so of yard work every weekday morning. Tuesdays, Thursdays and some weekend evenings, is bird work. Monday, Wednesday and Friday (or Sat or Sun), evenings are yard work and conditioning.</p>
<p>Curious why you can keep a few quail but couldn&#8217;t keep homers. Pen quail stink. Homers are clean by comparison. If you had 6-12 homers, you&#8217;d be set. Really good flying quail are good, but it&#8217;s not all that easy to find them or keep them in condition.</p>
<p>Greg J.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> bobman</strong> North GA does not exactly lend itself to dog training and wild birds are almost a thing of the past so here my suggestion teach the dog to come when its called and dont worry about the rest, then take it out to Kansas or the Dakotas this fall a have some fun one week doing that and the dogs instincts will surface. Its too hot to do much training here right now anyway.</p>
<p>Do what Greg suggested if you can, even one time a week try to get out of dodge and find some quail or pigeons to let the dog work some birds.</p>
<p>If the dog has the breeding it has the instincts, theres some good woodcock exposure to be had in January, but other than that my dogs dont see a game bird from season to season living here, they do fine on my trips out west.</p>
<p>You don&#8217;t teach a dog to hunt they are born knowing how</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> zzweims</strong> Go to <a href="http://navhdaga.org">http://navhdaga.org</a> and attend one of their training sessions. They train dogs together once a month at Whispering Pine, near Social Circle (just east of Atlanta). I think navhda is ideal for people in your situation. You will meet a lot of like minded folks who face the same urban/suburban obstacles. Many of them get together between training days and work their dogs at Whipering Pine, Central Georgia Pointing Dog Club (Milner), our farm (Gordon), and other locations, I&#8217;m sure.<br />
Your dog will thank you for it.</p>
<p>And don&#8217;t forget the Georgia Brittney club! <a href="http://georgiabrittney.org">http://georgiabrittney.org</a></p>
<p>Aline<br />
<a href="http://sitekreator.com/zzfarms">http://sitekreator.com/zzfarms</a></p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Brittguy</strong> Good advice has already been given I just wanted to add that if you do send him off the benefits will not be lost when he returns home. I have a friend that finished a dog pretty well mostly in his back yard ,but he did make about a 1 hour drive to our place quite often.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> gar-dog</strong> There really is a lot you can do in your backyard &#8211; introducing the e-collar, check cord, healing, coming, whoa-ing, etc. It&#8217;s not like you need to get on birds everyday. I am in the suburbs and work in the backyard &#8211; even released chukar there once! I would get to parks and fields for some exploring, then I joined a training facility I get down to 3x per month or so for a couple of hours for the bird work. You can do it &#8211; just think outside the box.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> jhoughton</strong> It depends where in Atlanta you live on how far it is to a place to train. I live in Marietta (near the square) and have a couple of places that I can train at without driving an hour. You have to do what it takes sometimes to get the job done. I will also drive down to Milner, I have driven up 90 miles to LaFayette to run the pups at Brenda&#8217;s and will drive out to Walton on occassion just to give the dogs a new field to run in. Living in the city and having dogs has its challenges, but it is not impossible.</p>
<p>Where in Atlanta are you located? I go out pretty much every week Fri-Sun once the weather cools down a little&#8230;you are more than welcome to tag along and I can get you on a few places that aren&#8217;t that far&#8230;</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Greg Jennings</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>gar-dog wrote:</cite>There really is a lot you can do in your backyard.&lt;snip&gt;.healing, &lt;snip&gt; You can do it &#8211; just think outside the box.</p></blockquote>
<p>Do you use a Rx or laying on of hands</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> grant</strong> Be sure to check into local WMAs also&#8230; You might have to drive a little bit, but it will be worth it. As the others mentioned, get in with a local clubs of sorts&#8230;</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> JFS</strong> Thanks for all the suggestions. I sent an email to the folks at navhdaga. It looks like there are some events coming up in September so I will try to check them out. I&#8217;m also going to revisit the homers. I found plans for a pigeon house that looks pretty good. I doubt the neighbors would really know what it is (until they see me popping pigeons into the air with a bird launcher), and I found a guy on GON (our local hunting website) that can cut the pieces for me, so I hope to get that in place by fall.</p>
<p>jhoughton, I sent you a PM. I&#8217;m also in Marietta (but over close to Roswell)- and would very much appreciate any help or advice you can give me.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> RayGubernat</strong> JFS -</p>
<p>Until five years ago I lived in a subdivision in central NJ. My property was 100X125. I trained several dogs including three that actually competed and placed in AF trials (2 in walking stakes and 1 in horseback stakes).</p>
<p>The nearest decent place to run my dogs was 45 minutes away. The nearest GOOD place was an hour and a half.</p>
<p>If I can do it you can also.</p>
<p>You can do a lot of things in the yard, in preparation for the weekend(Saturday or Sunday) training session on birds. Honestly, once a dog is trained, once a week on birds is plenty.</p>
<p>The key, I think is planning and preparation. Pick up the birds you need on Friday night or have them boxed and ready Saturday morning so you can pick them up on the way to your training grounds. If your supplier is more expensive, but conveniently located&#8230;so what? If there is a preserve nearby that offesr a training package and you can get birds right there&#8230;it might be well worth the price of admission.</p>
<p>As far as doing pigeon work in the yard, I suggest that you inform your next door neighbors that you will be training your dog with a capgun and then, either do in fact use a capgun, or use the lowest power .22 crimps you can find. Acorn loads by Fiocchi are pretty mild. If they express any concern, you could show them the pistol and point out that the barrel is solid.</p>
<p>Either way, a blank pistol is NOT a firearm and does not fall under any of the Federal firearm regulations since it is incapable of propelling a projectile. It is, essentially the same as a children&#8217;s cap pistol as far as the law is concerned.</p>
<p>RayG</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> gar-dog</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>Greg Jennings wrote:</cite></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>gar-dog wrote:</cite>There really is a lot you can do in your backyard.&lt;snip&gt;.healing, &lt;snip&gt; You can do it &#8211; just think outside the box.</p></blockquote>
<p>Do you use a Rx or laying on of hands</p></blockquote>
<p>Well, I speak in tongues and become some overcome I just look at a creature and the healing starts. It is really draining both physically and emotionaly. Here is me working some local teens:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUvzYpYXGak">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUvzYpYXGak</a></p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Greg Jennings</strong> That&#8217;s really FUNNY! I laughed so hard I couldn&#8217;t breath!</p>
<p>Greg J.</p>
<hr />
<h1>Deciding between training or another dog</h1>
<h2><a href="http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=26102">http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&amp;t=26102</a></h2>
<p>by  <strong> KHill</strong> Hunting and training my dog has been limited financially. I have some money to invest in the situation and am trying to figure the best way to go. I’ve considered a started dog, sending my dog to a trainer or getting a launcher/ecollar.</p>
<p>About my dog: He is a 5 yr old Weimaraner. My main complaint is he bumps birds and when he does point he sometimes is not steady enough for us to get there. I used to think range was an issue but I realized if he would hold point, his range is not that problematic.<br />
He swims and is a great retriever. His training so far has been yard work and hunting.<br />
At 1 yr, he got a prize II 89 in the NA test.</p>
<p>Thanks for any thoughts.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Greg Jennings</strong> Make a check cord from stiff rope and a sturdy brass snap. Make a pigeon coop from scrap wood. Catch a few feral pigeons from overpasses. You&#8217;ll have to replace them till they raise there. Get a friend to help you, or get creative looping the check cord around a tree.</p>
<p>That Weim is pretty big. You might put a second collar around his flank to help your back when you set him back. If you need more &#8220;authority&#8221; when you stop him with the check cord, try using a prong collar.</p>
<p>Greg J</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Ryman Gun Dog</strong> KHill,<br />
I work with Weimar dogs all the time, one of my best friends is a Weimar breeder in Lancaster, Pa. If you need help with your dog training I will help you.<br />
I have a Grouse dog training business in Potter County, Pa, how far away are you from Pa. I have a Weimar pup of my own, your dog is young and will need to mature<br />
before he understands what is going on, many good Weimar dogs are very slow to mature.</p>
<p>RGD/Dave</p>
<p>Pine Creek Gretchen, still a pup at a year old</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> KHill</strong> Ryman,<br />
Thanks for the offer but I&#8217;m about 12 hours from you as far as I can tell. Funny thing is I got my dog out of PA.</p>
<p>Mr Jennings&#8230;I was leaning toward the launcher in hopes that he would catch on and use instinct rather than trying to force him into a point. I have no problem intervening to get him to hold..but I want him to point on his own.</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Ryman Gun Dog</strong> KHill,<br />
If you have a trainer who works with Weimar dogs out your way you might want to look that person up and acquire some help. Lots of Weimar dogs today have<br />
less point in them than tracking and retrieving ability, where in Pa did you get your pup, from which breeder. Was it from Wilson here in Western Pa.<br />
RGD/Dave</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> Meller</strong> What state do you live in ?</p>
<hr />
by  <strong> KHill</strong></p>
<blockquote><p><cite>Meller wrote:</cite>What state do you live in ?</p></blockquote>
<p>Guess that was worth noting. I&#8217;m in N. Illinois&#8230;Rockford.</p>
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		<title>REVIEWS: Tri-tronics Sport Basic G3 Dog Training Collar</title>
		<link>http://gundogforum.com/blog/2010/reviews-tri-tronics-sport-basic-g3-dog-training-collar</link>
		<comments>http://gundogforum.com/blog/2010/reviews-tri-tronics-sport-basic-g3-dog-training-collar#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Dec 2010 22:32:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tri-tronics Dog Training Collars]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Tri-Tronics Sport Basic G3 REVIEWS Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 9:03 pm by Flash0507 I was thinking about buying a Tri-Tronics Sport Basic G3 for my lab. Is this a good buy or not? http://www.gundogsupply.com/tri-tronics-g3-sport-basic.html by kninebirddog For general work/training and &#8230; <a href="http://gundogforum.com/blog/2010/reviews-tri-tronics-sport-basic-g3-dog-training-collar">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><!-- p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; line-height: 1.0px; font: 1.0px Verdana; color: #536482; background-color: #ecf3f7; min-height: 1.0px} p.p2 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 4.0px 0.0px; line-height: 18.0px; font: 15.0px 'Trebuchet MS'; color: #105098; background-color: #ecf3f7; min-height: 17.0px} p.p3 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 6.0px 0.0px; line-height: 12.0px; font: 10.0px Verdana; color: #333233; background-color: #ecf3f7} p.p4 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; line-height: 18.0px; font: 13.0px 'Lucida Grande'; color: #333233; background-color: #ecf3f7} --> <!-- p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 21.0px 'Trebuchet MS'} p.p2 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Verdana} p.p3 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; text-align: right; font: 11.0px Verdana} p.p4 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 19.0px 'Trebuchet MS'} p.p5 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 11.0px Verdana} p.p6 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; line-height: 18.0px; font: 15.0px 'Lucida Grande'} p.p7 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 15.0px Verdana; background-color: #999999; min-height: 18.0px} p.p8 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 19.0px 'Trebuchet MS'; min-height: 22.0px} p.p9 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; line-height: 18.0px; font: 15.0px 'Lucida Grande'; min-height: 18.0px} --><strong>Tri-Tronics Sport Basic G3 REVIEWS </strong>Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 9:03 pm</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p>by <strong>Flash0507</strong></p>
<h1>I was thinking about buying a Tri-Tronics Sport Basic G3 for my lab. Is this a good buy or not?</h1>
<p><a href="http://www.gundogsupply.com/tri-tronics-g3-sport-basic.html" target="_self"><strong> </strong>http://www.gundogsupply.com/tri-tronics-g3-sport-basic.html</a></p>
<p>by <strong>kninebirddog</strong><br />
For general work/training and average hunting the G3 is a good collar<br />
<strong> </strong><br />
by <strong>Lab Man</strong><br />
If you train a few time a week and moderately hunt it will work fine. If you train alot and hunt very hard I would recomend getting a TT Pro-series collar. The Pro-series collars are definately more durable. I personally like the Combo better then the basic.</p>
<p>by <strong>nj gsp</strong><br />
I bought a G3 last year and use it pretty much every day. It&#8217;s seen some rough use and spent its fair share of time in the wet and water.<br />
Works great, no problems at all. I would recommend it.<br />
<strong> </strong><br />
by <strong>czup20</strong><br />
I am too looking at getting a e-collar and have looked at the sport combo G3 &#8212; But have had several people tell me that I should go up to the field or pro level<br />
Is it worth going up $150 or so?</p>
<p>Many have said the sport is good for average hunting &#8211; or some training. I am not sure what that means. I would like to say I would hunt more than average &#8211; but am not sure what average is. Any thoughts?<br />
<strong> </strong><br />
Posted: <strong>Thu Jan 31, 2008 10:42 pm</strong><br />
by <strong>kninebirddog</strong><br />
the pro series is good for training with the varying levels for introducing dogs and such<br />
for basic maintance and traing I like the classic 70</p>
<p>the G3 is also good biggest difference one also needs to keep in mind it the terrain and cover your hunting</p>
<p>the G3 will not reach out as far as the classic 70 or pros will<br />
<strong> </strong><br />
by <strong>czup20</strong><br />
That is a good point. The range is different from the sport models too. This could be a big deal depending on the the locations.<br />
<strong> </strong><br />
by <strong>Goosehunterdog</strong><br />
If range isn&#8217;t a problem then I would highly recommend the Sport Combo G3 series&#8230;Please let me know if you would like a price quote..<br />
<strong> </strong><br />
by <strong>nj gsp</strong><br />
You know, everyone talks about a super long range being important, but I won&#8217;t use it if I can&#8217;t see my dog. If that dog is a mile away from you, how can you tell what it is doing, and maybe you might have a problem that you really should be using GPS for instead.<br />
<strong> </strong><br />
Posted: <strong>Sat Feb 02, 2008 10:39 am</strong><br />
by <strong>kninebirddog</strong><br />
thing is more so with your cheaper collars ..many of these collars do not ahve any range at all</p>
<p>had a guy come out with a house model e collar&#8230;.he had no idea of the range it said 400 yard and in the process of working his dog on here&#8230;the dog was working out at about 150 yards we said here and that collar didn&#8217;t work . I had him say nothing as we worked our way closer to the dog when we were at about 100 yardds I had him call again and then the collar worked. yes we could see the dog</p>
<p>i find many models even tri tronics&#8230;when they give a range that is a clear line of sight with no obstructions no trees bushes<br />
i ahve tested collars side by side..tri tronics G3 which states 1/2 mile range and the sport dog 1800 which states 3/4 mile range side by side freshly charged recievers and a 6 month old 9v battery in the G3 and a freshly charge sportdog tranmitter the Sport dog only went about 20 feet further then the G3 which neither one was at a full 1/2 mile range</p>
<p>I was standing on top a canel dike while our one guy was on a 4 wheeler going straight line of site away from me.</p>
<p>My Dt edt 202 only went about another 100 yards past that<br />
my pro and classic our entire field it still worked 3/4 mile will ahve to find an area where i can test the range further ..but not that obsessed to try</p>
<p>just know when I was guiding all other collars failed the distance so even when I tried to promote other collars cause of price but after a few things where other collars failed me..my go to collar which has stodd the test of time was my tri tronics.</p>
<p>I had rick here last year and he asked me what does tri tronics do for me&#8230;.i hate to say My first thought was Ricks Level of sponsor&#8230;No tri tronics doesn&#8217;t sponsor me in his class&#8230;I came back at Rick later and Told Him&#8230;Rick What tri tronics does for me is put out a collar I can rely on.&#8221; he smiled<br />
<strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>TT G3 sport combos</strong><br />
Posted: <strong>Sun Feb 03, 2008 10:57 am</strong><br />
by <strong>MIKE M</strong><br />
Do any TT sport series come with the beeper . And can the beeper be activated by the remote ?<br />
<strong> </strong><br />
by <strong>kninebirddog</strong><br />
<a href="http://www.tritronics.com/remotetrainers-G3sportseries.html">http://www.tritronics.com/remotetrainer &#8230; eries.html</a><br />
the g3 Sport Upland does<br />
<strong> </strong><br />
Posted: <strong>Mon Feb 04, 2008 10:35 am</strong><br />
by <strong>TheShadow</strong><br />
The only issue with mine is the rotary dial bumps. meaning when its in a pocket it seems to bump up the dail so when i&#8217;m not paying attention i&#8217;m stim&#8217;ing my dog on a level 4 rather than a 3. ooops<br />
<strong> </strong><br />
Posted: <strong>Mon Feb 04, 2008 10:53 am</strong><br />
by <strong>kninebirddog</strong><br />
If it is a TT send it back in to them&#8230;</p>
<p>Any of the rotarys which make changing levels easier will with time loosen up<br />
so far the G3 I have&#8230;I have done a lot of just rolling the dial back and forth to get the dial to loosen up but it still stays in position &#8230;it is my job to see how much abuse and punishment it takes</p>
<p>I do have to say I was impressed with how long the original 9 volt battery lasted over 10 months<br />
then of course the receivers last way longer then any other collar I ahve used and love the new 2 hour charge time on the TT recievers now which last longer then 2 weeks using them or not ..which I can not say about any other collar i have tried<br />
<strong> </strong><br />
by <strong>TheShadow</strong><br />
i noticed that also, the receiver batt seems to last forever. I haven&#8217;t had to change the 9v yet either. And overall the collar gets wet, muddy, and banged around a bit. Thing seems like a tank to me. The rotary dail does seem a tad loose for me. It doesn&#8217;t really &#8220;click&#8221; into place but it was like that when I bought it NIB. I just started to notice the dail moving on its own when in my front breast pocket of my jacket. The other day i tapped the collar while it was in the pocket and my dog yipped loud and ran back to me. I looked at it and it was at 4.5 when I normally keep it aruond 3-3.5. I just have to be aware. Its still a really good collar for the money. I&#8217;d buy this over any of the others out there on the market.<br />
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<p><strong>Re: Tritronics G3 Basic</strong><br />
by <strong>Kmack</strong> » Tue Sep 09, 2008 5:18 pm</p>
<p>I have one with (2) collars. It is a decent quality unit which performs as advertised. It is adequate to train with.</p>
<p><strong>The negatives I find are: </strong></p>
<p>1.) 1/2 mile range limits it&#8217;s field ability,</p>
<p>2.) Dial for adjusting stimulation level is difficult to rotate while holding the continuous button. The button combinations and toggle type switches on the barrel type units are easier to manipulate one handed.</p>
<p>3.) It is difficult to get out of pocket or holster.</p>
<p>4.)Charger unit seems kind of cheap.</p>
<p><strong>The positives are: </strong></p>
<p>1.)  low cost,</p>
<p>2.) 10 Momentary and 10 Continuous levels of stimulation,</p>
<p>3.) Waterproof</p>
<p>4.) Can accept multiple collars (3).</p>
<p>5.) The collar units could be used with upgraded transmitters should you decide to move up.</p>
<p>My assessment is that if your goal is to get a low cost unit that will do everything you need then it is a good buy. If you are the type who is jealous of what others have then it will leave you wanting one with more bells and whistles.<br />
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<p><strong>Tritronics G3 Basic</strong><br />
Posted: <strong>Tue Sep 09, 2008 3:15 pm</strong></p>
<p>by <strong>eastwash</strong><br />
What are your experiences with this particular e-collar?<br />
<strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.gundogsupply.com/tri-tronics-g3-sport-basic.html#stimulation">http://www.gundogsupply.com/tri-tronics-g3-sport-basic.html#stimulation</a></strong></p>
<p><strong>Re: Tritronics G3 Basic</strong><br />
Posted: <strong>Tue Sep 09, 2008 7:37 pm</strong><br />
by <strong>kninebirddog</strong><br />
i also have a G3<br />
it will do 3 dogs&#8230;as with most that say that 2 dogs is comfortable I do all the way up for one dog all the way down for 2 dogs the middle position is hard to get to with out some concentration<br />
1/2 mile range for the average dog is more then adequate many people do not want their hunting dogs out that far<br />
most collars are timed and yes when starting the controls are a bit stiff&#8230;but after a bit of rolling is fine &#8230;the average prson uses mybe a coule settings till that dog has the idea and then maybe use it here and there when needed<br />
side by side with the sportdog the 9 volt in the G# last almost a year before needing changed the sport dog needed charging every 2 -3 weeks<br />
the charge for the reciever &#8230;seems cheap but I have not had any issues with the ones i have an over 2 years<br />
the receivers last a good month plus unless you forget to turn them off<br />
so it is a decent value collar<br />
<strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>Re: Tritronics G3 Basic</strong><br />
Posted: <strong>Mon Sep 15, 2008 12:37 am</strong><br />
by <strong>Lab Man</strong><br />
They are very good collars. I would also consider looking at a Dogtra 1900 NCP.<br />
<strong>Re: Tritronics G3 Basic</strong><br />
Posted: <strong>Mon Sep 15, 2008 8:43 am</strong><br />
by <strong>gar-dog</strong><br />
I have a G3 Sport Upland (Basic + beeper). I like it. I have it on the setting my dog needs, and have it clipped onto my belt. I can give it a tap easily while on my belt, so I feel like I don&#8217;t need to hold it. I think it is sturdy and it holds a charge FOREVER. I highly recommend it. I haven&#8217;t tested it&#8217;s range yet though.<br />
<strong>Re: Tritronics G3 Basic</strong><br />
Posted: <strong>Mon Sep 15, 2008 11:54 pm</strong><br />
by <strong>jbr03</strong><br />
ive had the G3 basic system for about a year now. it was the first collar i have ever bought. overall i like the system but if i had to buy it over, i would have gone for the G2 Classic. when buying it i thought &#8220;oh a half mile range&#8230; thats plenty far.&#8221; well its not. and i live in FL where its flat everywhere. once i get around the palmettos the whole thing is sketchy. i would think that it wasnt working right or that i didnt have the stimulation up enough so i would turn it up and all of a sudden the dog would come into view around a palmetto bush and just get floored on a high setting. but thats my fault for shocking her. its just hard to know if its going to work or not. real spotty when im hunting. when i let her run around the camp, it works fine, becuase theres no palmettos. the range is the only issue i have with it. definitely more pros than cons. its a tritronics system, so its the best quality out there. the remote is small and i wear it on a lanyard around my neck most times. not a hassle at all. it has more levels of stimulation than the G2, but i would still rather have the G2. my advice&#8230; get the G2, you will be more happy with that than the G3, but thats just my opinion. its only a little extra! LCS has real good prices.<br />
PS&#8230; my G3 remote does not hold up well against puppy teeth&#8230; she chewed on it a little bit and i have to get a new remote for 115 bucks.<br />
<strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>Re: Tritronics G3 Basic</strong><br />
by <strong>nj gsp</strong><br />
I have G3 Sport Basic, and really it&#8217;s the best thing on the market for the money &#8211; I think it&#8217;s the only transmitter in the price range that is completely waterproof.<br />
I bought a G2 Upland EXP a month or so ago, and I was able to pair the old collar receiver with the G2. So, a G3 is a great place to start if you are on a budget becuase you can still use the collar receivers when you upgrade.<br />
<strong>Re: Tritronics G3 Basic</strong></p>
<p>by <strong>eastwash</strong><br />
My friend just got a G2 Classic 70 and I really like the transmitter and the more powerful signal. That said I am on a budget and ordered the G3, it will be here Monday, it looks like a nice outfit for the price and I am looking forward to using it.<br />
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<p><a href="http://www.gundogsupply.com/tri-tronics-classic-70.html">http://www.gundogsupply.com/tri-tronics-classic-70.html</a></p>
<p>by <strong>nj gsp</strong></p>
<p>I made the drive out to Cabela&#8217;s tonight to do some &#8220;hands on&#8221; comparison shopping. It ended up being a tie between the TT G3 sport basic, and the Dogtra 200 NCP Gold.<br />
I bought the TT. Why? For me it was decided by one word &#8211; The TT has a 100% waterproof transmitter &amp; waterproof collar, the Dogtra has a water <strong>resistant</strong> transmitter, and waterproof collar.<br />
To my way of thinking the transmitter is the most critical component, and I&#8217;m not afraid to go out &amp; hunt in the rain. So &#8220;waterproof&#8221; was worth the extra $40.<br />
I can&#8217;t wait to charge this baby up &amp; zap myself.<br />
I also picked up a TT dummy collar, my GSP had it on within 15 minutes of my return home.<br />
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<p>by <strong>Terry</strong><br />
I have had the sport basic for about 2 months now. It found it for the same price as the sport 50 g2 i had bought about 8 months before that and it has been exactly what I want and need.<br />
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<p><strong>Re: Tritronics Stimulation Level</strong><br />
Posted: <strong>Wed Oct 27, 2010 6:56 am</strong><br />
by <strong>phermes1</strong><br />
I have the sport combo and I have to say it&#8217;s got plenty of levels. I can hardly feel level 1 and it goes up fairly gradually from there. I keep wanting to upgrade to the Pro series, but the sport combo meets all of my needs, so it&#8217;s hard to talk myself into the extra expense.<br />
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<p><strong>Re: e collar recommendations</strong><br />
Posted: <strong>Mon Jun 21, 2010 9:20 am</strong><br />
by <strong>Kmack</strong><br />
I bought the TT Sport Basic G3 and an extra collar. It works well as a very basic unit but I find that the intensity dial is too slow and difficult to operate when you wou need to increase or decrease juice. I am buying a Pro 100 because I find that I use continuous mode almost exclusively. If you use the momentary mode predominantly, then the Pro 200 would be better suited for you. If you don&#8217;t know which mode you prefer, and price is no object, then the Pro 500 would be the cat&#8217;s meow&#8230;<br />
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<p><strong>Re: Vizsla training &#8211; with or without ecollar</strong><br />
Posted: <strong>Mon Mar 01, 2010 3:51 pm</strong><br />
by <strong>kninebirddog</strong><br />
In truth the Tri Tronics Sport basic and the Pro 100 lower levels have less Stimulation then those vibration collars or even a tug on a leash or lead..<br />
if someone feels good about it is ok to vibrate the dog for what ever reason that is not what the collar is for if you want to use it where a dog will respond to the cue versus react to the stimulation <a href="http://kninebirddog.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=15.0">UNDERSTANDING THE E COLLAR</a> this is the process I use to set my pups and dogs in my program for the e collar<br />
again the process begins with the leash if the dog is responding well to the leash/lead and confident then going to the check cord to the e collar should be no different</p>
<p>People still view the e collar as a deterrent tool as it was created to stop hounds from chasing unwanted quarry and yes that was super shock</p>
<p>This is why I do not use the term Shock collar as the new lower levels again have Less stimulation value then tugging on the lead or those vibration collars&#8230;I have seen many a soft dog react worse to vibration then low level stimulation</p>
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