Gun Dog Forum

gonehuntin'

The advantage of nick over continuous is that a higher setting is used. I use both. If I'm working on commands like here, whoa, fetch I always start out in continuous mode then progress as the dog does to a nick in a higher mode. To a certain extent, dog's become conditioned to electricity and later...

gonehuntin'

When the dog is ready to begin training (6-8 months), two 15 minute sessions, one morning, one evening will accomplish more than one longer one.

gonehuntin'

Cute pics. Looks like pup's not big on honoring pa's point!!

gonehuntin'

It's kind of hard without seeing it, but it has a lot of negatives to it. Only a two dog. Entry from rear; that's also where all the road dust is sucked it. No water tanks? Torsion Axle? Individual compartment ventilation? To me, it wouldn't be worth over $1000.00, but I'm really not familiar with t...

gonehuntin'

First, is she from well bred, field trial parents, and 2nd, does she like chasing birds?

gonehuntin'

You should be doing no formal training with that pup at all at four months old. He's a baby for God's sake. Have fun with him, teach him to mark and love water and birds, do NOT steady him or get on him over dropping bumpers. You're going to burn him out if you keep going the way you are. Lots of ha...

gonehuntin'

Has anyone here taught a flushing breed to sit when another dog goes on point? I have a buddy that hunts a pointer and I am curious if we could get our dogs to work together somehow. If anyone has done this I would be curious how you did it. It would be extremely useful and extremely easy to do. Th...

gonehuntin'

When I'm starting a pup, I plant them is cover only high enough to hide the trap. It's the training I'm interested in, not the realism. Later on, I only plant birds in spots where I feel a wild bird would be. That plus the actual wild birds, is how a bird dog learns to find birds.

gonehuntin'

As usual Don, a VERY good post!

gonehuntin'

Is it any different if you were to verbally call the dog and it gave a refusal? I use it all the time while hunting. Most of the time I am huffing and puffing and cannot catch my breath long enough to hollar so I just beep the dog. Works for me I don't think it's any different at all, but when a do...

gonehuntin'

The "beep" in my view, is an unsound training principal. Everytime a dog gets away with something once, he'll try it twice. Twice, he'll try it three times. You're far better off using a light stimulation than a beep so the dog recieves some type of correction, no matter how mild.

gonehuntin'

Scented bumpers are worthless for training. The regular bumpers work just fine. Throw a lot of clip wings for him and get him birdy. In the field, work him on flyaway birds out of traps. They're very much like training a pointing dog but with a lab, sit, not whoa, becomes their most important comman...

gonehuntin'

If she does it only in training and not on wild birds, don't worry about it. If she does it on wild birds, there's nothing you can do about it. I've always thought that it showed either a lack of intensity or too much training in a dog.

gonehuntin'

The best deal in the free world is on the CZ brand. They make english and regular stock with double triggers for under $1000.00. I have a 20 and love it.

gonehuntin'

I think I differ from gonehuntin' on this part. I still do the bird work in the field and yes some pressure can occur during the transition to birds. BUT it is usually very shortlived and they tend to associate the "pressure" with the lessons they have already learned and NOT with birds. The only t...

gonehuntin'

I work with her each session for 20 minutes or so or until she tells me she's done. Yes, that is the correct amount of time. Morning and evening (2 sessions) work better than one session. I heel her onto the table, whoa her, and tell her "fetch" and then put a small canvas dummy in her mouth. I don...

gonehuntin'

When he's in pain, it's time. That's the big advantage dog's have over human's.

gonehuntin'

Being soft and smart will make him easier to FF with less pressure.

gonehuntin'

You guys are wrong about FF taking anything out of a dog; in fact just the opposite is true; it can make dogs that are lethargic retrievers absolut maniacs. The only dog's I have EVER seen ruined by FF were dogs that were incorrectly FF'd and you can ruin a dog on anything by doing something incorre...

gonehuntin'

All good advice. Remember the old guide line also that "A pup can hold it for about one hour per month of age." Three months, three hours, four months, four hours, etc. It's a rough guideline but pretty close. It's a baby.

gonehuntin'

I don't think this is a big deal and personally, it wouldn't concern me at all. However I would remember it and be aware of it when I really introduced him to birds. Although I said these incidents wouldn't HARM the dog, they could be the harbingers of a problem that will surface when the dog is old...

gonehuntin'

I do what Don does and it generally works. If you don't have a bird pen, use single birds. With a dog like this, the smaller the bird the better. Start with a wing clip quail. Have the dog on a lead and actually PUT the bird in the dog's mouth. He'll probably spit it out but that's OK. Throw the bir...

gonehuntin'

I disagree most strongly with Ezzy and Ironhorse on this one; that is, the need to ff. Now first, let me say that I'm with them that you MAY not ever need it IF your dog is a strong natural retriever, or maybe you just don't care if the retrieve isn't perfect. A dog does not need reinforcement of th...

gonehuntin'

I really don't understand why you feel you have to go to a preserve when you live in Idaho. Idaho has plenty of pheasant. Here's my take on a preserve: You go into shock the first time you see their prices. Then figure the cost of a trip to SD and factor in the fact that you can bring back 15 (?) bi...

gonehuntin'

Yes, that's also how I steady my pointers. Labman's point was very important and I forgot to post it; never let them have the bird or bumper if they break.

gonehuntin'

It's really very simple to do this and most can be done right in the yard. It all start to steadiness to a mark. Once the dog is steady to a shot bird as a mark, proceed to sit to flush and shot. Start in the yard. Walk along, throw a bumper, blow the whistle, command sit. Do this until he unfailing...

gonehuntin'

Conditioning and training are two separate things done at separate times.

gonehuntin'

I know Don disagrees with this, but I have mine pointing and retrieving birds from 10 weeks on. To me, a dog's whole life is going to be birds. It takes birds to make a bird dog. Yes, it does make them birdier and harder to steady, but then we're supposed to be trainers, right?

gonehuntin'

Those are classic signs of a dog with an allergy. Have her checked.

gonehuntin'

If she's bolting Bean, you have a real problem. Bolting, if it's true bolting is caused by one thing, and that is too much pressure on the dog. Many times it's pressure the dog does not understand. Better take a few steps back and evaluate your methods.

gonehuntin'

Training a springer is very similar to training a retriever except they're generally not taken as far in the mechanical training. We used to train them on obedience, force, quarter in field, sit to shot, lay steady at a duck blind. An ecollar can be used on any dog, just keep the intensity lower. If...

gonehuntin'

I don't agree with most of the other posters. You don't have a dog that is not staying in range, you have one you don't see 20" at a time! That's a big difference. What you're describing is mainly an obedience problem. As another poster said, get him on a cc and teach him to turn at every two blasts...

gonehuntin'

What you have to do is to be extremely unfair with the dog and to challenge him. Always remember that old saying " If you train for the rediculous, the trials come easy". You should only be sending the dog on his name and with your hand in front of his nose. Never send him by name only. Start by thr...

gonehuntin'

Is your problem that he is breaking on the doubles and triples, not turning to see them, or can't mark them?

gonehuntin'

Launchers make it easier but are expensive. Can you borrow any from a game farm, NAHDA group, or some other training group? As the other poster said, not necessary, just lots easier.

gonehuntin'

I have had three of their launchers for three years now and they have performed flawlessly. Three years ago they were totally redesigned and it's my understanding there is little trouble with them now.

gonehuntin'

It's the owner of the female's responsibility and no one else's. The dog NEVER should have been brought around another group of dogs. The dog NEVER should have been left unsupervised. The other dogs may have been chained and the female simply backed up to one of them. I feel little compassion for so...

gonehuntin'

DoubleB; exercise won't help a dog like that at all. You can't exercise the dog before you put him in a hunting blind or a hunting test. Get him under control. To do that work him on tight, demanding drills where the dog must pay attention or make a mistake. Were I you, I'd get Lardy's or Grahams ta...

gonehuntin'

I'd rather shovel up after the dogs than the kids. If I were you, I'd also put a wire covering over the kennels in case of a climber.

gonehuntin'

Another 2nd for Gregg & Pepper. I used to be in this position and one other thing I learned very quickly, was to only demo the dogs on land I had locked up so that they couldn't use me as a guide and go back there with their own dogs.

gonehuntin'

If you're using a lot of birds on it and it's a young dog, that's why it has little interest in the dummies. Like the others said, let the trainer worry about it; sounds like you've given pup a great start.

gonehuntin'

You misunderstand us Ironhorse; we're complementing him on such a generous offer to you and saying we're going to buy supplies from him because of it!!!!!!!!!!!!

gonehuntin'

Use a heeling stick so they learn they can NEVER go past your knees.

gonehuntin'

Heck of an offer lab man. You're not going to make much at your new business running it like that!! It sure would make me think of you when buying training supplies though.

gonehuntin'

FF for all dogs is the same, pointing or retriever, at least in the basic stages. It's how far the dog is taken that differentiates the two.

gonehuntin'

I shoot a Ruger GL 12 ga S X S. My back up is a CZ 20ga S X S. Both have 28" barrels, both weigh exactly 6# 3OZ. The CZ was only $550.00 though.

gonehuntin'

Fairly common with some pups at this age. You know, timidity can also be a sign of intelligence. A bold pup that charges at everything showing no fear, can be a very stupid dog. A dog that "looks" timid may many times just be kind of sizing things up. I'll take that kind of pup every time over the b...

gonehuntin'

I like to get them on pigeons or birds as soon as possible. I like letting them retrieve clip wing pigeons and point quail. I'm not much on letting them chase birds. They are retrieving clip wings which makes them bird crazy. Why let them chase birds all over heck's half acre when that leads to a pr...

gonehuntin'

Smart fetch is a good video. Sounds to me like you don't really want to force your dogs. That's your decision. You haven't been around many dogs (field trial) if you think they don't run as hard and fast as yours do. Re-read my first post. It's about much more than a clean delivery. Some people shou...

gonehuntin'

Force training in NO way diminishes a dog's desire to retrieve. If a Lab goes into force a firebrand, it comes out one. What you may have seen is a dog that has been worked on a tight lining wheel. That will slow them down some because they're being careful. They you have the dogs that are just list...

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Re: Sit to point???