


It seems like redirecting his attention wouldn't address the actual problem. Only end up in an endless loop of redirecting.kninebirddog wrote:I would not use an E collar either...
I know you don't like The dog whisperer but like him or not his methods work.
There are so many signs that a dog does before they ever get to the point of being close enough to display dominance and such...Your dog needs to have his attention redirected at the time he is eying the other dog
by the time they are but sniffing and putting heads over the shoulders you have allowed the process to go to far
He doesn't give our other dog notice at all when we go on hikes together. I agree on this one. General consensus is to not use collar so I won't, there is another brittany at the daycare that has to be collared for this same problem (all the intact dogs hump apparently, my dog just so happens to be the worst) but I doubt they use avoidance level stim and I simple lvl3 just wouldn't get much done in the long run I don't think. What does everyone think about the spin and drop?Winchey wrote:+1 K9
I have serious doubts snipping him will help. I also don't think you have much to worry about in the field. If the dog is worth his salt and knows there are birds to be found when you put him down he isn't going to give the other dog the time of day.
isonychia wrote:My girlfriend got a job at one until she can find something in her field and as a result our dogs go during the work days for free. Apparently my un-altered male Britt gives them a lot of grief humping all the other males, etc. He isn't the only un-altered gun dog there but "acts up" the most. Going to give her the collar today and use it for hump avoidance work. Not sure how this will go but I'm going about it the same way you would chasing deer. No, there are no dogs in heat allowed, but even so it is still scarry to think about my dog making mutts!![]()
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Already advice from the source! Yeah I'm not sure if it is misdirected play behavior or a combination of the two actually. Eitherway it sounds like from what your saying she is already doing all of the right things. Apparently he is a big pain in the "bleep" for them (so much so that before she worked there and I had to board my dog they almost told me not to bring him back) I think after a week or two he might start to get it.fuzznut wrote:I run a doggie day care and cageless boarding facility. We get these dogs in with this behavior from time to time and they are a pain to deal with. Neutered or not, male or female... doesn't seem to matter.
With some dogs it's a dominance thing, with other dogs it appears to just be misdirected play behavior. But no matter what the reason, the other dogs don't like it and it can lead to an injury to someone. When I see that behavior starting, I stop it quick and let the dog no that it will not be tolerated by ME! Some dogs get it, some just never will.
I would not use an e-collar for this. As others have said, using an e-collar could start a fight real quick. Instead, your GF needs to follow him around and stop it before it even starts! She should be able to see him getting ready... he will approach another dog with his head up, body tense, might appear playful. He might dance around, whine.... it's at that time that he needs correction, not after he has climbed aboard!
Give him a good poke in the ribs at the moment he gets that look in his eye! Carry a pooper scooper around and use that to extend her reach. Once she has his attention, then redirect him to chase a ball, or chew a bone.
If it's a play behavior gone astray, he will grow out of it and learn how to play appropriately with other dogs. If it's a dominance bahavior he will start a fight and with luck get his butt kicked! But either way..... it's not good in a daycare or group situation. If it's allowed to continue he could become an obnoxious dog when other dogs are around. Not something you want with a hunting dog that is going to run with other dogs.
If he is going to continue to attend, it's up to GF to change it,
Good luck
Fuzz