What makes a good trial horse?

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Stoneface
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What makes a good trial horse?

Post by Stoneface » Sun Aug 19, 2012 9:59 pm

I've not had much to do with horses. I've ridden some and used to help my aunt with some training (she was a part-time horse trader), but never had the room for one. Been thinking about getting one and always heard everyone talk about how it takes a special animal to make a good trial horse. I have some friends from down the way that train horses professionally that I've helped with some dog training and they're willing to help me do any training I need done.

What makes a horse a good trial horse besides a smooth gait and stable nerves?
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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by Cajun Casey » Sun Aug 19, 2012 10:47 pm

A well padded checkbook. Cost of the horse is incidental. Take a hundred dollar bill out every month and light it on fire, then, just on random timing, burn $500 - $700 occasionally.

A decent horse loads, stands for the farrier and for clipping, ground ties and pickets, is a decent keeper, AND DOESN'T FLIP HIS FREAKIN' SHOES OFF ON A REGULAR BASIS.
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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by DonF » Mon Aug 20, 2012 2:49 am

Just to add, a decent horse has a ton of commom sence, doesn't mind the dog's around it and if a dog goes under and the check cord drags on a leg, it just stops untill the dog is gone, it does not panic. A decent horse is not barn sour and is not herd bound.
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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by dan v » Mon Aug 20, 2012 7:24 am

Others have given the basics of a good FT mount.

Here's more advice......Don't try and make one....purchase one.
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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by RayGubernat » Mon Aug 20, 2012 8:23 am

A good trial horse is one which will be standing there waiting for for you when you come back with the dog in had, after a find. :lol: :lol:

I'm only half kidding. That is a biggie especially when you are a couple of miles from the truck.

Others have covered it pretty well.

You need a horse with plenty of bottom, and a good work ethic, especially if you are going to ride the same horse after several dogs in a row.

Most of all you want the good mind and a kind, forgiving disposition. You do not need to have to chase the horse to catch it. you do not need to have a horse bopping around when you are trying to saddle it or clean its feet and you definitely don't need a horse that will not stand still for you to get on. You also do not need to have a rodeo for a half hour every time you saddle the horse and hop on.

You do not need a horse that must be ridden with full attention every minute, in fact quite the opposite. You need a horse that will do its job, follow the dog, watch the dog, watch where it is going ...so you can concentrate on the dog.

Good horses are born that way, just like dogs. Training makes them better, just like dogs. If you have a screwball three year old that acts stupid... it won't get better with age...just stronger.

If you have a kind, gentle, three year old, that wants to do what you want it to do, it too will get stronger with time, but it will still be kind and gentle and nice to be around.

Always remember this...the best horse in the world...WILL STILL GET YOU HURT. It is just a matter of time.

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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by displaced_texan » Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:17 am

Cajun Casey wrote:A well padded checkbook. Cost of the horse is incidental. Take a hundred dollar bill out every month and light it on fire, then, just on random timing, burn $500 - $700 occasionally.

A decent horse loads, stands for the farrier and for clipping, ground ties and pickets, is a decent keeper, AND DOESN'T FLIP HIS FREAKIN' SHOES OFF ON A REGULAR BASIS.
Having some issues? :mrgreen:
I have English Pointers because they don't ever grow up either...

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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by RayGubernat » Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:55 am

displaced_texan wrote:
Cajun Casey wrote:A well padded checkbook. Cost of the horse is incidental. Take a hundred dollar bill out every month and light it on fire, then, just on random timing, burn $500 - $700 occasionally.

A decent horse loads, stands for the farrier and for clipping, ground ties and pickets, is a decent keeper, AND DOESN'T FLIP HIS FREAKIN' SHOES OFF ON A REGULAR BASIS.
Having some issues? :mrgreen:
C,mon now. Horses are a PIA, that is for sure, but they are not THAT expensive, if you have a place to keep them that has grass.

Where I live and trial, shoes are unnecessary if the horse has decent feet. I pay $25 to have my horses feet trimmed, every six weeks. That is $225 per year. I used to have the fronts shod and that was $50 per horse or $450 per year.

I have to feed hay about 100 days per year, so 1/2 a bale per day for 100 days is 50 bales @ $5 per bales is $250 per year.
I feed an all stock feed every day(much less in summer), I go through about 2 50# bags/month @~ $11/bag, so $264 per year.
Equine dentist, twice a year(overkill) for about $75 a visit, or $150 per year.
Vet visits...spring shots and Coggins, ~$200.
Wormer @$5 per month or $60 per year.
Miscellaneous stuff, such as... Thrush Buster, rasp, hoof knife, sheath cleaner, wound spray, show sheen, hoof pack, venice turpentine, etc. probably $300 per year.

So that is 225+250+ 264+ 150+ 200+ 60+300 = 1260 per year. Most folks pay that per year for their cell phones and more than that for cable.

There ARE a bunch of nonrecurring costs, the horse, the horse fencing and shelter, the trailer, the saddle and tack and if necessary, the tow vehicle.

But the cost to own a horse is not a dealbreaker if you have a place to put them. The big problem with any animals and especially lrge animals like horses is care. They do need care 7 days a week and they are kinda tough to board out when you want to go on vacation.

RayG

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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by brad27 » Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:58 am

RayGubernat wrote:A good trial horse is one which will be standing there waiting for for you when you come back with the dog in had, after a find. :lol: :lol:

I'm only half kidding. That is a biggie especially when you are a couple of miles from the truck.

RayG
:lol: Reminds me of the last FT I went to last year. Long story short, I ended up walking a mile back to camp with a dog in one hand and the bridle and reins in another. :evil:

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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by displaced_texan » Mon Aug 20, 2012 10:04 am

RayGubernat wrote:
displaced_texan wrote:
Cajun Casey wrote:A well padded checkbook. Cost of the horse is incidental. Take a hundred dollar bill out every month and light it on fire, then, just on random timing, burn $500 - $700 occasionally.

A decent horse loads, stands for the farrier and for clipping, ground ties and pickets, is a decent keeper, AND DOESN'T FLIP HIS FREAKIN' SHOES OFF ON A REGULAR BASIS.
Having some issues? :mrgreen:
C,mon now. Horses are a PIA, that is for sure, but they are not THAT expensive, if you have a place to keep them that has grass.

Where I live and trial, shoes are unnecessary if the horse has decent feet. I pay $25 to have my horses feet trimmed, every six weeks. That is $225 per year. I used to have the fronts shod and that was $50 per horse or $450 per year.

I have to feed hay about 100 days per year, so 1/2 a bale per day for 100 days is 50 bales @ $5 per bales is $250 per year.
I feed an all stock feed every day(much less in summer), I go through about 2 50# bags/month @~ $11/bag, so $264 per year.
Equine dentist, twice a year(overkill) for about $75 a visit, or $150 per year.
Vet visits...spring shots and Coggins, ~$200.
Wormer @$5 per month or $60 per year.
Miscellaneous stuff, such as... Thrush Buster, rasp, hoof knife, sheath cleaner, wound spray, show sheen, hoof pack, venice turpentine, etc. probably $300 per year.

So that is 225+250+ 264+ 150+ 200+ 60+300 = 1260 per year. Most folks pay that per year for their cell phones and more than that for cable.

There ARE a bunch of nonrecurring costs, the horse, the horse fencing and shelter, the trailer, the saddle and tack and if necessary, the tow vehicle.

But the cost to own a horse is not a dealbreaker if you have a place to put them. The big problem with any animals and especially lrge animals like horses is care. They do need care 7 days a week and they are kinda tough to board out when you want to go on vacation.

RayG
I was ribbing her about the shoes.

Also, what is grass? We don't have that around our parts anymore.
I have English Pointers because they don't ever grow up either...

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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by Cajun Casey » Mon Aug 20, 2012 10:36 am

displaced_texan wrote:
Cajun Casey wrote:A well padded checkbook. Cost of the horse is incidental. Take a hundred dollar bill out every month and light it on fire, then, just on random timing, burn $500 - $700 occasionally.

A decent horse loads, stands for the farrier and for clipping, ground ties and pickets, is a decent keeper, AND DOESN'T FLIP HIS FREAKIN' SHOES OFF ON A REGULAR BASIS.
Having some issues? :mrgreen:
Only when we go out and expect him to be shod. :mrgreen: I think his record is two weeks. In his defense, however, it is a physical problem and I'm not sure PT would correct it entirely at seventeen. He has too short of a front stride and clips his front shoes with his rear hooves. He's not a bad horse.
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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by jimbo&rooster » Mon Aug 20, 2012 11:23 am

My thought is a GOOD trail horse with some specific experiences will make a decent trial horse.... Ground tie is nice but not necesary as there is more than likely someone in the gallery that will hold your horse as long as the horse is not a jerk. You want a horse that will stop and stand when told to whoa and not dance around, and obviously a horse that can handle dogs scooting around under his feet. Also when a planted bird (or a turkey) blows up off the side of a trail right underfoot you dont want the horse to pee itself.

Now from your end. Horses are deffinately not cheap, Ferriers while not overly expensive add up, and years like this feed is a big issue. Truck, trailer, saddle, tack, various odds and ends. A place to put your horse If you dont have 2-3acres. Buying a horse is a drop in the bucket when compared to owning a horse.....

Jim
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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by codym » Mon Aug 20, 2012 11:34 am

I have to feed hay about 100 days per year, so 1/2 a bale per day for 100 days is 50 bales @ $5 per bales is $250 per year./quote]


I wish I paid 5 bucks a bale, its about 9-12 for 2 strand here if you lucky you can find it for 8.

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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by shags » Mon Aug 20, 2012 12:34 pm

Cajun Casey wrote:Only when we go out and expect him to be shod. :mrgreen: I think his record is two weeks. In his defense, however, it is a physical problem and I'm not sure PT would correct it entirely at seventeen. He has too short of a front stride and clips his front shoes with his rear hooves. He's not a bad horse.
Is he able to go barefoot? Mud sucks shoes off here ( in normal years) and we just quit trying. Turns out our four do fine without shoes, even on our FT grounds that is rockier than at home.

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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by Cajun Casey » Mon Aug 20, 2012 12:56 pm

shags wrote:
Cajun Casey wrote:Only when we go out and expect him to be shod. :mrgreen: I think his record is two weeks. In his defense, however, it is a physical problem and I'm not sure PT would correct it entirely at seventeen. He has too short of a front stride and clips his front shoes with his rear hooves. He's not a bad horse.
Is he able to go barefoot? Mud sucks shoes off here ( in normal years) and we just quit trying. Turns out our four do fine without shoes, even on our FT grounds that is rockier than at home.
If he could go barefoot, knocking shoes off wouldn't be an issue, now would it? :roll:
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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by RayGubernat » Mon Aug 20, 2012 1:47 pm

codym wrote:I have to feed hay about 100 days per year, so 1/2 a bale per day for 100 days is 50 bales @ $5 per bales is $250 per year./quote]


I wish I paid 5 bucks a bale, its about 9-12 for 2 strand here if you lucky you can find it for 8.
I know what you mean. I bought this year's supply fairly early in the year and I am now very glad that I did. After I bought, it got really hot and dry nd nothing much grew. Now it is is raining about every third day...not a lot but just enough to screw over the farmers trying to make hay. Lots of cow hay to be had, but horse quality hay is pretty scarce. You folks out west are really up against it this year... for sure.

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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by DonF » Mon Aug 20, 2012 2:12 pm

codym wrote:I have to feed hay about 100 days per year, so 1/2 a bale per day for 100 days is 50 bales @ $5 per bales is $250 per year./quote]


I wish I paid 5 bucks a bale, its about 9-12 for 2 strand here if you lucky you can find it for 8.
You guys aren't really buying hay by the bale are you? Lot cheaper by the ton if you have storage. The horse i'm keeping here goes thru about 2 1/2 ton a year, he's fat. As i remember when we were trialing, we got five or six ton a year, don't remember the price. Don't know what hay goes for buy the bale anymore but eight ten years ago it was going foe $8 a bale and about $120 a ton. About 35 bales to the ton.
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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by dan v » Mon Aug 20, 2012 2:27 pm

shags wrote:
Is he able to go barefoot? Mud sucks shoes off here ( in normal years) and we just quit trying. Turns out our four do fine without shoes, even on our FT grounds that is rockier than at home.
Mud does't suck shoes off. Mud causes a timing problem in which the front foot is unable to be clear of the rear footfall.
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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by shags » Mon Aug 20, 2012 3:03 pm

Wyndancer wrote:Mud does't suck shoes off. Mud causes a timing problem in which the front foot is unable to be clear of the rear footfall.
Maybe, but twenty years of Killdeer Plains...LOL :lol: What happened to all the rear shoes?

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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by topher40 » Mon Aug 20, 2012 3:11 pm

you got to be able to shoot around the horse, I think everyone has forgot about that. :roll:
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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by jimbo&rooster » Mon Aug 20, 2012 3:41 pm

topher40 wrote:you got to be able to shoot around the horse, I think everyone has forgot about that. :roll:


Yeah this is kid of important ^^^^^
A limit on the strap is nice, but the kill has nothing to do with tradition.

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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by kbshorthairs » Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:29 pm

Wyndancer wrote:Others have given the basics of a good FT mount.

Here's more advice......Don't try and make one....purchase one.
This is wise advice!


Buy a horse from a pro handler (that you trust). A horse that has seen everything and been everywhere. The money you spend over what a less experienced horse costs will be saved in hospital bills down the road......I promise!

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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by dan v » Mon Aug 20, 2012 6:44 pm

shags wrote:
Wyndancer wrote:Mud does't suck shoes off. Mud causes a timing problem in which the front foot is unable to be clear of the rear footfall.
Maybe, but twenty years of Killdeer Plains...LOL :lol: What happened to all the rear shoes?
It's, or was, the single file head to tail trail ride. :mrgreen:
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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by deseeker » Mon Aug 20, 2012 8:12 pm

I haven't seen anyone mention you have to have a horse that is okay being by itself looking for your dog or scouting someone else's dog. It also has to be part bulldozer going thru heavy brush, trees, etc. You need one that will go thru water or across narrow bridges(both concrete & wooden). One that will let you haul the dog back to camp on the saddle with you is nice.

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Re: What makes a good trial horse?

Post by WillowyndRanch » Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:00 am

RayGubernat wrote:A good trial horse is one which will be standing there waiting for for you when you come back with the dog in had, after a find.
RayG
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