Rookie Question

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ben33127
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Rookie Question

Post by ben33127 » Sat Feb 01, 2014 2:27 pm

So i was out this morning working my dog and she would point and hold until l started walking in to kick the bird up. When I would get roughly 15 yards from her walking in she would get really twitchy want to start creeping in on the bird and eventually bump the bird (sometimes flew, sometimes start running). I want to add she will whoa and hold where she stopped when "whoad" great when birds are not in front of her, but as soon as you add the bird element she gets nervy or excited.


I know this is a rookie question and hopefully there is something I can work with her on to correct. Thanks for all of the help!!

capstick
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Re: Rookie Question

Post by capstick » Sat Feb 01, 2014 2:48 pm

I am a novice with bird dogs and had same problem. Went to a trainer and he told me to be sure to come into the dog so that the dog can see you. He said if you come in straight behind the dog you are giving the dog permission to creep which also leads to bumping. Not sure if that is correct answer but thats what he told me.

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Sharon
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Re: Rookie Question

Post by Sharon » Sat Feb 01, 2014 3:12 pm

This is were an extra set of hands or launcher is needed. Someone else flushes the bird while you steady the dog , or a launcher flushes the bird when the dog gets "twitchy".

Neil
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Re: Rookie Question

Post by Neil » Sat Feb 01, 2014 3:18 pm

More reps on whoa, reinforced with the ecollar, then overlay the bird to mean whoa. Also swing out to the side and come to the bird within her sight, use your upraised hand with the palm to her if she moves, reinforced with the ecollar. And still more reps and more birds. Lots of reward when she does it right. Keep it fun, but she must learn to stay on point until released. The barrel teaches that had you used it with the Buddy Stick and ecollar.

Good luck, enjoy.

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birddogger
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Re: Rookie Question

Post by birddogger » Sat Feb 01, 2014 6:20 pm

This is normal and the above posts are some good advise but you need to find a good program and follow it.

Charlie

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Sharon
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Re: Rookie Question

Post by Sharon » Sat Feb 01, 2014 9:27 pm

capstick wrote:I am a novice with bird dogs and had same problem. Went to a trainer and he told me to be sure to come into the dog so that the dog can see you. He said if you come in straight behind the dog you are giving the dog permission to creep which also leads to bumping. Not sure if that is correct answer but thats what he told me.
Never come in/ move out straight in front of the dog. Almost lost my toes once doing that. I was just ready to shoot, the dog broke, hit the side of my leg and .............Lesson learned.

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campgsp
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Re: Rookie Question

Post by campgsp » Sat Feb 01, 2014 10:41 pm

You should be able to come in from any direction on an honest dog.
But for training purposes come in from an angle towards the dogs front. But not where your going to put the bird up right into the dogs face. ;)

Since your not using launchers (assuming) keep some birds in a bag and have one in hand when approaching the dog. If she moves toss the bird. Same principle as the launcher.

Proof your woah on birds in a separate environment.
Have some birds in a bag and while the dogs running around in an empty field. Woah her then toss a bird. If she moves make a correction.
Five birds is plenty in one session. 2 birds is not enough. I suggest doing the later first and then go back to planted birds.
This is of course if she is complete woah broke without birds though.

Just my .02

Are you following a program?

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lugmastro
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Re: Rookie Question

Post by lugmastro » Sun Feb 02, 2014 1:14 am

I'm not real smart, so I do things the simplest way possible every time. For me and my dog, I come in at 90 degrees to the dog. Leaving the most likely flush direction towards where I want to shoot, away from thick vegetation. I come in very deliberately and hit the tone on the collar to steady him a little, if he looks twitchy. Since I started approaching each point this way the dog has steadied. I have more work to do, but this has been a good start. L-Shapes never fail regardless of the prey you are hunting.

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DonF
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Re: Rookie Question

Post by DonF » Sun Feb 02, 2014 1:48 am

I know guy's that proof their dog by walking past it, make's no sense to me. You walk past your dog and you risk pulling it with you. Coming in at 90* is a good idea. Actually come in anywhere in front of the dog. Now you can see the dog and if it bats an eye, stop it right there. Do not give a whoa command while your walking in, stop and give the command. Don't let it appear your racing the dog to the bird. Once stopped and the dog is settled back down, change the direction your coming in a bit and start over. Walk in past your dog and your back is to the dog and you can't keep a good eye on your dog, your probably to busy trying to flush a bird you want to shoot, keep your eyes on the dog. If your dog so much as glance's toward you, pop out the bird right away. If you don't have a remote, stop and caution the dog. Then back up a few steps and come from a different direction. Do not race your dog to the bird!!!

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lugmastro
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Re: Rookie Question

Post by lugmastro » Sun Feb 02, 2014 3:09 am

Don, I never thought of the dog thinking you are racing, but that makes total sense. I will keep that in mind. Thanks for the tip.

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Re: Rookie Question

Post by onuhunter02 » Sun Feb 02, 2014 6:52 am

lugmastro wrote:Don, I never thought of the dog thinking you are racing, but that makes total sense. I will keep that in mind. Thanks for the tip.
Thank you as well that is a helpful way of looking at it.

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ben33127
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Re: Rookie Question

Post by ben33127 » Sun Feb 02, 2014 5:02 pm

Thanks, I think coming in at a different angle will help. I also will steady her up with whoa a bit. Don, that makes perfect sense not making it seem like your racing your dog to the bird. Thanks for all of the help!

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