Got bit

[JNC]

I’m an amateur compared to most of you. I tried to take a chew away from my wirehair tonight (who definitely is a guard dog and is very protective in general). I took it away and he freak out which is a bit odd. I gave him some commands and have it back which was normal. Then came back a few minutes later and he knew I was there and tried to take it and he clamped my hand. I didn’t realize he drew blood until a few moments later but it definitely is worrisome with us having kids around at times. He’s normally just the perfect badass all around hunting dog who is very protective, but this was intense. He also is fantastic with kids and very gentle ALWAYS.

This is a Christmas bone we have periodically been taking since beginning of the month to make it last. Should we be worried? My girlfriend is upset but I’m thinking we will be ok and it was a freak thing that drew a little blood.

[JNC]

I’ll note it would take a lot more from this for us to remove him from the home. This is not even remotely us looking to rehome. He’s our baby and we will take every precaution. He is our child and will not be left behind.

[cjhills]

JNC
Just be aware that this is a situation that can go downhill quick.
You don't say what the age of the dog is. If he was aggressive once he will very likely do it again. If he goes after a child or a stranger the results can be life changing for the child, the dog and you.
Treating him like he is your baby may be part of the issue.
There are signs that he is not accepting you as the pack leader and signs that you may not accepting your job as the leader. You do not need to be mean. There are things you can't let him do.
Don't give him attention when he demands it, don't let him jump on you or rush in and out ahead of you, don't let him put his foot on yours even if it looks like an accident, it is not. It may be wise to consult a professional on this.........Cj

[K9BigDog]

First thing I'd do regardless is remove any food-based type of chew items from him permanently. No rawhides, real bones, ears, anything that is from a real animal. Stick with Nylabones and other synthetic-based toys and chews. Is he also being over-protective of his food? If that's the case it points at the thought that he is being food aggressive and that would extend to food-based toys and chews.

[JNC]

It’s very odd because he is not food aggressive whatsoever. He’s 2 in February and I can do whatever I want with his food or any food type of treat and he just waits. It’s always been that way. I’m just hoping he really was in the zone with this bone and it won’t happen again. I did come up behind him and tried to take it without realizing it could startle him. I may not allow him to have anymore bones or rawhide type chews either if there’s a chance he does that.

[polmaise]

Denial + Avoidance + anthropomorphism = Bite
Merry Christmas.

[slistoe]

Denial + Avoidance + anthropomorphism = Bite
Merry Christmas.

Concise and accurate.

[JNC]

That is not helpful. What do you mean with denial and avoidance?

[JNC]

Thanks for all the feedback guy, truly appreciated. To answer some questions he is 2 in February. He is not food aggressive whatsoever. I wouldn’t have a worry in the world if anyone went and took his food away because he’s never displayed that type of reaction. Occasionally if he has a chew of some sort and is afraid he’ll lose it to my other dog or myself or girlfriend he will act protective but even then it’s generally pretty laid back. So this was out of character. He also is only occasionally allowed on the bed, he does not sleep with us. He knows this and remains on the floor. He is fully crate trained and he has some good conditioning training but is not fully FF trained though I am planning for it.

We are a young couple without kids so we will absolutely try to work through this. I grew up hunting over a GWP so this is why I got one now. He is an absolute beast at only 55lbs and I knew it wouldn’t be easy but overall I feel he is very well trained. He definitely respects me as the alpha outside of the incident. When it occurred I did pin him on his back and showed him who is boss. He cowered the rest of the night and still has been this morning.

I copied this reply from another forum I am on.

[Sharon]

The advice has been excellent ; sounds to me like you know what you are doing. One incident at 2 years of age wouldn't alarm me too much , but I would also follow the advice given. Enjoy your dog.

[Garrison]

In these situations it’s always harder to gain control than maintain control. As others have pointed out, the faster you realize he is your dog, and not your child the better you will both be for it. Unfortunately, through the years this question often arises, near exclusively from “pet parents” rather than “dog owners”. If you are lucky enough to experience the love of your own child someday, you will have a drastically different view of the world.

Possessiveness is something that can often be worked out if there is someone who can read the dog and take control. A quick unforeseen attack is a different ballgame. Not a game I would be willing to play inside my home. I sincerely hope it is a one and done incident, but biters usually develop a habit of it, and at two the wiring is pretty well set. Then there is always the problem of who’s hands other than your own are you willing to use to work with this dog, or who’s kids are you willing to use to check and see if the dog is “okay with kids”? Glad the current living arrangements are what they are.

Garrison

[Garrison]

Denial + Avoidance + anthropomorphism = Bite
Merry Christmas.

Truer words!

[oregon woodsmoke]

This is one of those things where when you post it in public everyone wants to psychoanalyze the dog and they speak of behavior modification.

(this is for a dog who has been raised to not bite and who understands that the food is mine, not his and he has it by my grace. For a dog I just bought, there would be some behavior modification)

[Steve007]

The first part of force training to retrieve--- which you may not need with a wirehair-- is just simply teaching "hold" and then (the word I use) "leave it" for a release. Just look up "teaching hold" if you're not familiar with this. Teaching hold and release is a good thing all by itself --- you don't want to get into a fight over when to release a bird he's retrieved -- and the command will cross over to the release of just about anything. My (non-neutered) male wirehair and I play tug-of-war with all sorts of toys designed for that purpose, but he releases instantly when the command is given. Yours will, too, once you teach it.

You don't need to get violent, as in "pin him on his back" leading to cowering. Personally, that's not the relationship I want with my dog. Just teach the right command. Some slow and careful serious obedience work goes a long way on communication. Most people are too unmotivated to do this or don't even know that they should learn how, so they fall back on animal behaviorist claptrap. Short sections frequently.

[mask]

so when your dog bites you just say leave it and everything is perfect. The op did what was best at the time and the dog probably won't make that mistake again.

[Steve007]

so when your dog bites you just say leave it and everything is perfect. The op did what was best at the time and the dog probably won't make that mistake again.

Self-evidently, giving a command after violation has occurred is pointless. The question was how to prevent difficulties in the future. Some people train their dogs, and the OP is clearly inclined in that direction. Others -- at least as it relates to normal indoor living with the dog-- are not. Obviously.

[Sharon]

so when your dog bites you just say leave it and everything is perfect? The op did what was best at the time and the dog probably won't make that mistake again.

Quite sure that isn't what Steve is saying in his post.

[gonehuntin']

I'd handle it somewhat differently, but with you I'd say to QUIT GIVING HIM CHEWS THEN TAKING THEM. I know why you said you're doing it, just don't do it. IF you want to take treats from him, teach him to drop on command, then take the treat. It's a nice safety measure to have anyhow in case he picks up something unwanted and you want him to spit it out. Wires can be a handful and come with a few inherent problems.