What should I be looking for in a food?

Gabe · Post by **Gabe** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:20 am

Ok Pup will be here this week, I'll just keep giving him what the breeder is (diamond) for now but what should I be looking for in a food both puppy and adult?

Post by **ezzy333** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:28 am

Mine like the Diamond and do well on it. It's all my pup has ever eaten since his first meal.

Ezzy

Post by **Greg Jennings** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:37 am

1. The dog does well on it.
2. Reasonably fresh batches are readily available.
3. It's reasonably priced.

As an aside, had rather see a pup be a little thin as too heavy.

Greg J.

romeo212000 · Post by **romeo212000** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:44 am

Dog does well on it.
Good protein and fat content. Not too much or too little
Good quality ingredients
Dog does well on it.
Reasonablly priced.

As said above you should check out Diamond. It is nicely priced and my dogs do very very well on it. A lot of people like Exceed as well.

Gabe · Post by **Gabe** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:19 am

romeo212000 wrote:Dog does well on it.
Good protein and fat content. Not too much or too little -What is good?
Good quality ingredients-I'm sure all food has corn as a filler in it but is there a percentage I should look for?
Dog does well on it.
Reasonablly priced.

As said above you should check out Diamond. It is nicely priced and my dogs do very very well on it. A lot of people like Exceed as well.

Post by **slistoe** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:30 am

Corn is not a "filler", it is a source of nutrition in the food.

If you check the list of puppy foods you will find nearly identical ratios of fat/protein in all of them. That is what is good. They did the research.

If your breeder is feeding Diamond and his dogs are healthy and doing well, why do you think that you need something different for your dog? Or is it your opinion that the breeder you are buying your pup from is not looking after his dogs properly - they are poorly nourished?

Gabe · Post by **Gabe** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 11:45 am

slistoe wrote:Corn is not a "filler", it is a source of nutrition in the food.

If you check the list of puppy foods you will find nearly identical ratios of fat/protein in all of them. That is what is good. They did the research.

If your breeder is feeding Diamond and his dogs are healthy and doing well, why do you think that you need something different for your dog? Or is it your opinion that the breeder you are buying your pup from is not looking after his dogs properly - they are poorly nourished?

Can't find it here, he's giving me two bags.
But I should be able to find something simler if I just campare lables I would think. But I still wouldn't know what I was looking at really.So corn’s not a bad thing, see I’m learning already.
I seem to recall that whatever ingredient is listed first is the highest content. Is that true and if so should the first thing listed be meat (chicken or whatever) or should it be corn or whatever veggie they mix in.
Now I’m just a nimrod so I figure the food companies know what they’re doing and they put it in simple to understand criteria, puppy food for mid size dogs or large active dogs or old dogs…should I believe them? I’ve read on this board contradicting things some don’t go the puppy food route others use adult high protein or low protein because they don’t want the dog to grow to fast aahh my head hurts. Can I just pick any food that suites my dogs age and size, or do I do what other folks who don’t know what they’re looking at do and just buy the most expensive and figure it must be the best.

I guess I’ll sit down with my vet and see what he has to say

Post by **Greg Jennings** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 12:07 pm

If you can't readily get the Diamond, it's not a good food for your situation

.

It is true that the ingredients have to be in order. But, it can be misleading. Look for discussions of meat versus meat meal to understand.

I will look at labels, but only after getting good recommendations from trustworthy individuals on the food. Basically, I compare labels to pick a blend of a food that I've already decided on. E.g., "Performance" versus "Maintenance".

Greg J.

Gordon Guy · Post by **Gordon Guy** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 12:26 pm

It does make ones head spin to think about all of the options of what's said to be bad and what's said to be good.

I use to feed X (A common brand mentioned here often) but then I tried Y (Which is considerably more expensive then most would pay which is never mentioned here) but my dogs looked so much better, I can't go back to X because I would feel like I'm neglecting them.

My dogs spend a lot of time in the house and my wife asks that I keep them clean. So I bath them often, they use to get dry flaky skin after their baths. last fall I bought a puppy, at the vets my wife complained about her dry flaky skin after bathing her. My vet said I needed to try an expensive dog shampoo. I said no, I need to change dog foods. My breeder gave me a bag of food to get her through a couple of weeks. Once I switched to Y (Which is what my other dogs are on) and after a bag or two pup didn't get that flaky skin after her bath. I use liquid Dish washing detergent to wash my dogs.

Unless people have tried something other than X and compared, they don't know what the possibilities are.

Try different foods and let your dogs condition be the judge.

Post by **ezzy333** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 12:34 pm

But wouldn't it cheaper to try a less harsh detergent rather than have to feed something to replace the natural oils in the skin?

Ezzy

Gordon Guy · Post by **Gordon Guy** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 1:09 pm

Buying a different soap doesn't change the fact that the dog has dry skin.

I don't think it's the soap that causes the problem, IMO it's the food. The flaky skin is a symptom of a problem. If I buy a soap that's suppose to help with that, isn't it like I'm ignoring the bigger problem? It's like accepting the problem as something that can be tolerated. If the food is causing a problem on the outside what's it doing to the inside. If I could feed my dog something better, so there wouldn't be a problem, minor that it is, shouldn't /wouldn't I as a responsible dog owner choose to do that.

Heck, in the past when I ran out of shampoo and forget to buy some I've used Dawn, it didn't give me dry skin.

My $.02

Gabe · Post by **Gabe** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 1:17 pm

Thanks for the responses.
Now I have yet another question that I'm almost afraid to ask, do you change your food during hunting season?

Post by **ezzy333** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 2:37 pm

My skin is dry and I can't use regular soap or I flake badly. Can use Dove or something like that with no poblem but regular soap pulls all of the oil out and leaves me flakey. :roll:

Ezzy

Rick Hall · Post by **Rick Hall** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 3:34 pm

Gabe wrote:Thanks for the responses.
Now I have yet another question that I'm almost afraid to ask, do you change your food during hunting season?

The percentage of gun dogs that are hunted hard enough to merit a feeding change in quantity or type is probably quite low.

Gordon Guy · Post by **Gordon Guy** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 5:27 pm

Ezzy

My skin is dry and I can't use regular soap or I flake badly. Can use Dove or something like that with no poblem but regular soap pulls all of the oil out and leaves me flakey.

Maybe you need to start eating better dog food!

Post by **ezzy333** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 6:43 pm

Good idea. And maybe switch to cream rather than skim milk on it. :roll: :roll:

romeo212000 · Post by **romeo212000** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:30 pm

Rick Hall wrote:
Gabe wrote:Thanks for the responses.
Now I have yet another question that I'm almost afraid to ask, do you change your food during hunting season?
The percentage of gun dogs that are hunted hard enough to merit a feeding change in quantity or type is probably quite low.

I have to agree with this. Are you hunting your dog 5 or 6 times per season or at least once per week? I increase my feeding amount when NSTRA season and hunting season roll around by 1/2 cup per day. It is not a huge amount but is enough to sustain the increased activity. I dont need to switch to a different food and hate that anyways cause then you have to get your dog used to a new food and deal with any digestive problems that follow. If your feeding quality food and need to increase calories due to increased activity then a slightly increased amount will usually do the trick.

big steve46 · Post by **big steve46** » Thu Aug 21, 2008 12:35 pm

I don't change my dog's feed during hunting season. I do free feed in that I fill his large feed pan about every three days so he can eat what he needs.

JFS · Post by **JFS** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 6:27 pm

Gordon Guy wrote: then I tried Y (Which is considerably more expensive then most would pay which is never mentioned here) but my dogs looked so much better

So I have to ask, can you tell us what type of food "Y" is?

Gordon Guy · Post by **Gordon Guy** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 12:44 pm

[Gordon Guy wrote:
then I tried Y (Which is considerably more expensive then most would pay which is never mentioned here) but my dogs looked so much better

So I have to ask, can you tell us what type of food "Y" is?

I've fed different foods in the last 12 months. From Innova, Innova's premium brand "Evo" (Which is Meat based) to Canidea(Sp?) currently I'm feeding Blue Buffalo. It's meat based 42% protein and 16% fat. I feed twice a day and If I feed more than a cup at a time I get runny stools, no fun. But my dogs look good and have lots of energy. It's available at Petsmart which is close to me, it's kinda spendy but that's a choice I made. If I had a lot of dogs I might choose another option.

http://www.bluebuff.com/products/dogs/wilderness.shtml

GSP_girl · Post by **GSP_girl** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 12:59 pm

The first ingredient should be a meat.The food should not have corn in it. Instead it should have whole grains as dog's do not process corn and it is put into the food as a filler. Bi products should not be in the ingredients either. You want a variety of protein sources as well as a variety of fruits and veggies. A good food for high performance dogs is Blue Buffalo Wilderness. Here is a link to the food It has 42% protien! And it works well as a puppy formula.

http://www.bluebuff.com/products/dogs/wilderness.shtml.

Also Solid Gold Barking At the Moon is a great food as well. It has 41% protein.

http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/products ... 1&code=120

A great puppy formula is
http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/products ... 1&code=180

Although many of the more popular foods such as Purina, Iams, Eukanuba, Royal Canin, Beneful, Science Diet are advertised as these great foods really when it comes down to it they have all the same ingredients as the cheap store brand foods. The are packed with lots of fillers and bad sources of protein and usually they have no vegetables or fruits.

Gordon Guy · Post by **Gordon Guy** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:06 pm

I'd put on your fire proof suit now!

big steve46 · Post by **big steve46** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:10 pm

Hey Ezzy, If we stick around, we might learn something!

Post by **ezzy333** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:19 pm

GSP_girl wrote:The first ingredient should be a meat.The food should not have corn in it. Instead it should have whole grains as dog's do not process corn and it is put into the food as a filler. Bi products should not be in the ingredients either. You want a variety of protein sources as well as a variety of fruits and veggies. A good food for high performance dogs is Blue Buffalo Wilderness. Here is a link to the food It has 42% protien! And it works well as a puppy formula.

http://www.bluebuff.com/products/dogs/wilderness.shtml.

Also Solid Gold Barking At the Moon is a great food as well. It has 41% protein.

http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/products ... 1&code=120

A great puppy formula is
http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/products ... 1&code=180

Although many of the more popular foods such as Purina, Iams, Eukanuba, Royal Canin, Beneful, Science Diet are advertised as these great foods really when it comes down to it they have all the same ingredients as the cheap store brand foods. The are packed with lots of fillers and bad sources of protein and usually they have no vegetables or fruits.

I have no idea where you got your nutritional training but what you have written isn't even creditable but rather sounds like an ad for some exotic dog food. I could go through and set the record straight on each item you mentioned but for the sake of time plus 99% of the people who own dogs know better than what you are posting I will just say you are wrong on all counts. Go back and read the many posts on our forum about nutrition if you want to learn about many of the feeds and ingredients used in dog food, what they do, and why they are used.

Please try to make your post realistic instead of just repeating some garabage put out by a company trying to mislead some new dog owner who does not know better.

Ezzy

GSP_girl · Post by **GSP_girl** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:28 pm

ezzy333 wrote:
GSP_girl wrote:The first ingredient should be a meat.The food should not have corn in it. Instead it should have whole grains as dog's do not process corn and it is put into the food as a filler. Bi products should not be in the ingredients either. You want a variety of protein sources as well as a variety of fruits and veggies. A good food for high performance dogs is Blue Buffalo Wilderness. Here is a link to the food It has 42% protien! And it works well as a puppy formula.

http://www.bluebuff.com/products/dogs/wilderness.shtml.

Also Solid Gold Barking At the Moon is a great food as well. It has 41% protein.

http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/products ... 1&code=120

A great puppy formula is
http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/products ... 1&code=180

Although many of the more popular foods such as Purina, Iams, Eukanuba, Royal Canin, Beneful, Science Diet are advertised as these great foods really when it comes down to it they have all the same ingredients as the cheap store brand foods. The are packed with lots of fillers and bad sources of protein and usually they have no vegetables or fruits.
I have no idea where you got your nutritional training but what you have written isn't even creditable but rather sounds like an ad for some exotic dog food. I could go through and set the record straight on each item you mentioned but for the sake of time plus 99% of the people who own dogs know better than what you are posting I will just say you are wrong on all counts. Go back and read the many posts on our forum about nutrition if you want to learn about many of the feeds and ingredients used in dog food, what they do, and why they are used.

Please try to make your post realistic instead of just repeating some garabage put out by a company trying to mislead some new dog owner who does not know better.

Ezzy

I appologize if I came off snobbish or ignorant. These are just what I have fed my dogs for years and all do exceptionally well on them so of course I would reccomend them. Before I was educated in what to look for in a dog food I did use Purina. Unfortunately when I switched down to Purina 3 of my dogs had to be taken in to have a series of shots to help digest their food. 2 of them had seizures 2 days after the switch. After that incident I was put into check by my veterinarian about what foods I should be feeding. Personally I am trying to make the switch to all natural foods and feeding a raw diet.

If others dogs have done well on Purina or any other foods of that type then more power to you and that is absolutely great. I was merely giving a reccomendation. I do not get my nutritional education off of a dog forum though, but thank you for making that offer.

However it is very credible that nutritionally Meat should be the first ingredient, there should not be corn in that food because like humans dogs do not digest this well, and there should be a variety of fruits and veggies.

Post by **ezzy333** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:52 pm

However it is very credible that nutritionally Meat should be the first ingredient, there should not be corn in that food because like humans dogs do not digest this well, and there should be a variety of fruits and veggies.

It is well documented that corn is the best complex carb source available not only for dogs but practically every animal we have domesticated including ourselves. It has been proven to be an easily digested grain as well. We are so blessed here in the mid-west to have a plentiful supply that makes it reasonably cheap.

Sorry to hear about your dogs needing shots just to digest a feed. I had never heard of the connection between feed and siezures before either. Wish you could explain how that would work.

Hope your switch to the raw diet works for you. In the mean time, I am still feeding the kibbles that practically every sporting or working dog is being fed and performing better and living longer than ever before. And many insist on corn to provide the energy it takes to perform at those levels.

Ezzy

GSP_girl · Post by **GSP_girl** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 2:19 pm

Sorry to hear about your dogs needing shots just to digest a feed. I had never heard of the connection between feed and siezures before either. Wish you could explain how that would work.

The siezures were caused because of how backed up the dogs were, and it also was caused because of the pain they endured with not being able to digest. They also had an allergic reaction to the corn that was in the food. We discovered this and that their skin allergies went away after we fed a non-corn food.

Post by **ezzy333** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 3:01 pm

Maam,

There is absolutely no way you can tell if they were alergic to corn without doing a series of tests that take time. You may have been able to determine if they were allergic after a month or two but if there was an allergy many times it takes months to find if or what they were allergic to. And we know corn has a very low allergy position with dogs.

Ezzy

Post by **slistoe** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 3:53 pm

For the sake of the breed I certainly hope that GSPgirl will never, ever have those dogs reproduce. There is something seriously wrong with them.

big steve46 · Post by **big steve46** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 4:26 pm

I think that chemicals on grains may cause intolerances a little more often than some believe, and it's not a true allergy. However, I'm not saying that's what happened with her dogs. Perhaps she forgot to water them, and that plugged them up! Just kidding. I do believe that those dogs could do very well on a good commercial grade product such as Diamond chicken and rice-Natural with no corn or wheat. I don't believe all the hype that companies put out to sell expensive feed.

GSP_girl · Post by **GSP_girl** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 4:51 pm

I think we are going to have to agree to disagree on this one

. I have researched in depth and I feel it is inadequate to feed corn based foods, and you do not. That is fine.

big steve46 · Post by **big steve46** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 5:02 pm

gspgirl, I assume you were talking to Ezzie. I think corn is fine usually if it is ground properly, but I agree there are exceptions. I think there are many good feeds without corn and wheat that cost less than a dollar a pound.

Rick Hall · Post by **Rick Hall** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 5:32 am

slistoe wrote:For the sake of the breed I certainly hope that GSPgirl will never, ever have those dogs reproduce. There is something seriously wrong with them.

Amen to that.

shootist · Post by **shootist** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:07 am

GSP_girl wrote:Before I was educated in what to look for in a dog food

Sounds more like propaganda than education. I agree that meat should be the first source, but corn is not a filler. It is, in fact, beneficial.

Try reading these articles for a start.

http://www.greatdanelady.com/articles/the_corn_myth.htm

http://www.dogguide.net/blog/2007/02/the-corn-myth/

Post by **Greg Jennings** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:48 am

GSP_girl wrote:I think we are going to have to agree to disagree on this one . I have researched in depth and I feel it is inadequate to feed corn based foods, and you do not. That is fine.

Ezzy has decades in dog food manufacturing. Big Steve is a registered (human) nutritionist. You can feel what you want, but you're short on the research end compared to either.

GSP_girl · Post by **GSP_girl** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 2:39 pm

Rick Hall wrote:
slistoe wrote:For the sake of the breed I certainly hope that GSPgirl will never, ever have those dogs reproduce. There is something seriously wrong with them.
Amen to that.

It's not a big deal or anything, I just wanted to clarify that I do not breed German Shorthaired Pointers. I have AKC miniature Dachshunds that I show, earthdog trials, and occaisionally breed.

Post by **Greg Jennings** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 3:57 pm

http://www.gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13425

GSP_girl · Post by **GSP_girl** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 4:18 pm

Greg Jennings wrote:http://www.gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13425

Although this would be a great example, however as I had stated in that post this was not my breeding instead this was a litter my step father had planned and carried out. In the first initial post I did write that this was my first GSP/GWP litter, because it was much more direct than explaining how relatives owned these dogs. I had come to this forum with questions I had about the two breeds, not as a breeder myself. Eventhough I would love to own my own GSP one day.

Here is a quote from that thread stating my stance.

These two dogs are my parents dogs. I tried to help them out by coming on here and asking questions.

3Britts · Post by **3Britts** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 5:22 pm

shootist wrote:
GSP_girl wrote:Before I was educated in what to look for in a dog food
Sounds more like propaganda than education. I agree that meat should be the first source, but corn is not a filler. It is, in fact, beneficial.

Try reading these articles for a start.

http://www.greatdanelady.com/articles/the_corn_myth.htm

http://www.dogguide.net/blog/2007/02/the-corn-myth/

I just had to check these two sources.
Here is what I found on Linda from ratemyprofessors.com. By the way, she was a fine arts professor. Taught ceramics.
<edited by moderators>
The second source is a blog from someone who only worked in a vet's office. No proof there.

Forsters and Smith, who are vets, show studies that show corn can cause allergies in animals. And it does in some.

Bad choice of sources.

Rick Hall · Post by **Rick Hall** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:05 pm

Did Foster and Smith point out that food is responsible for less than 10% of dog allergies, and that corn is well down the list of possibilities, with meat protein sources being the most likely cause?

romeo212000 · Post by **romeo212000** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:21 pm

Sorry GSP girl. I have to say you have things mixed up. Corn is an excellent source of nutrition and provides oils and acids that are good for the coat and digestion.

big steve46 · Post by **big steve46** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 8:19 pm

I'm pointing out again that there are similarities in effects but real differences between true food allergies and food intolerances which are usually related to chemicals on or in foods. Terminology gets tossed around sometimes inaccurately and winds up being confusing. I'm going by knowledge in human nutrition but common sense says the principles apply to dogs. I realize metabolism has marked differences here and there between humans and animals. It is true that true allergies are more related to proteins such as meat as allergens and antigens are protein in nature.

rstbkt69 · Post by **rstbkt69** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 4:35 pm

I wonder if I could get a ceramic GSP...............with a beard. Sorry couldn't resist.

Jim

3Britts · Post by **3Britts** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 8:00 pm

I love this tread because it always gets the researcher in me going. Here are a couple of articles that might be of interest to all.

http://www.thepetcenter.com/imtop/bestfood.html
http://dogs.about.com/cs/dietandnutriti ... n_free.htm
http://www.api4animals.org/facts.php?p=359&more=1
http://holisticpetfood.wordpress.com/20 ... -that-bad/

So, by all means rstbkt69, but a ceramic pet. That way you will never have a problem with its feed.
You might even use the corn to polish its coat.

big steve46 · Post by **big steve46** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 8:59 pm

The GSPs that I have seen all run "stiff-legged" so is that what you mean?

Dobe · Post by **Dobe** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 11:57 am

http://www.bsu.edu/update/article/0,138 ... --,00.html
Linda Arndt, the Great Dane Lady, is a retired professor, hence the title Professor Emeritus on her website. I don't know about her as a professor. Her knowledge of canine nutrition is of far more interest to me. No, I do not follow her feeding guidelines to a tee. Her website is one of the best, though. So is this one!
If you like what you are feeding, that is great. Stick with it! If you don't, then find something that works for you and your dog. Be sure it is something you can afford every time you buy feed.
For those of you who are looking for feed recommendations, I use Pro Plan and Eagle Pack. Both of the formulas I use contain corn, but both companies make formulas with no corn. I have fed them for both years and have nothing but good things to say about either brand. There are many excellent foods out there for every budget. My dad feeds Diamond, Eagle Pack, and Purina One, my sister feeds Royal Canin. My grandpa always fed his coondogs whatever was left over from his family's table plus some plain old Purina Dog Chow when it became available in this area.
On a side note, I have a Doberman on Eagle Pack. Anything else will give him the runs. Dad has one dog on Eagle Pack Holistic Senior. It has helped control his seizures.
He also has a Lab that has eaten rocks, whole green walnuts, tablescraps, etc. She is 9 and has yet to drop dead. Did I mention she is in excellent health with great muscle tone? I have seen 3 year old Labs that don't look as good as her! She ate some unidentified, bloated mess this weekend along with her favorite snack of "horseapples" and hoof trimmings! If my Dobe ate some of the stuff she ates, I would be forced to burn down my home and move across the country! My JRT can eat anything that does not eat her first.
By the way, hello again from the poster formerly known as Walker! I was unable to log in under my old name. My apologies to the admins.

Post by **Greg Jennings** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 1:23 pm

One point:

o The point that the poster was making is that Ms Ardnt isn't a professor of nutrition but rather of arts.

And a couple of points of trivia:
o In many institutions, there are special rules around the title "Professor". They vary greatly. But, the most common is that a "Professor" will be a Full Professor. One with tenure.
o The strictly correct usage for a female is Professor Emerita. I think this is honored more in the breach than the observance.

Greg J.

Dobe · Post by **Dobe** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 1:59 pm

Hmmmmm, I don't ever recall seeing a claim that she was a Professor of Nutrition. As I stated above, I never really cared about that one way or the other. This link tells more about her career as an artist and professor. BTW, Professor Emeritus is the term she used, but thank you for the clarification. Another tidbit: The US is one of the few countries where the term "professor" is tied strictly to career choice!

Post by **Greg Jennings** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 2:29 pm

Dobe wrote: Another tidbit: The US is one of the few countries where the term "professor" is tied strictly to career choice!

Interesting. My experience is academia in the U.S. and to a limited extent the U.K. Could you give an example? I did have some experience reading German where it seemed that people used titles in ways that we wouldn't here. For example, my academic friends don't like to be called "doctor" outside the classroom or similar. I was told that this was "bush league". In the German that I was reading, it was common for someone to be addressed as "Herr Doktor" and even "Herr Professor Doktor" even though they were not medical doctors.

Greg J.

3Britts · Post by **3Britts** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 3:55 pm

The term Professor is tied to a person with either a PhD or someone teaching at the College/University level. In the UK Professor is used more commonly than Doctor. The same is true for most European countries. The term Emeritus is in relation to someone who has retired from, in this case, teaching at a University.

Now, when I made the statement about Linda, I made it in reference to the person's attachment of her as a Professor when referencing her as a person to cite concerning animal nutrition. As she is not a Professor of nutrition, that was misleading. If he had referenced her articles/publications alone, that would have been credible. Again, the second person listed as a source in the posting was that of a personel blog with no real qualifying characteristics. If my students had tried to use these two sources in this manner, I would have been forced to grade the paper down for lack of source support.

I am simply stating that corn does cause problems for some animals. That some animals do fine with corn in their diet where others do not. To back up my statements, I have listed several articles from credible sources. I have not tried to put forth an adjenda that corn does harm all animals. Again, I believe that it does harm some, such as dogs, cats and other carnivores In fact, one of the articles that I put forward for discussion mentioned that those who are arguing for the grain based diet are those from the Pet food industry. These are the same people who have a vested interest in getting us to buy their product and have an adjenda. If you want to know what harms animals, talk to those who treat them and have no vested interest in getting you to buy their foods. Do so in the same manner that you would talk to a mechanic and not a salesman about the problems with your car.