Post
by DonF » Tue Sep 20, 2011 9:13 pm
I would not put out a scent bird, that is a bird he may well catch. In which case the launcher serves no purpose. There's a simple trick to using a launcher, think like a wild bird. If a wild bird would do it, you need to do it also. What the launcher does really well is let you control the bird and do what will best help you dog.
Knowing what the wind is doing is very important. If it's blowing hard enough to blow up the scent, train at something else. If you think it's not blowing at all, you maybe right but. have a little bottle of baby powder with you and put a bit in the aid, it will tell you is there is movement and which way it's moving. If it doesn't appear to be moving at all, out the trap out and let it set ten minutes or so, the scent will spread. There is movement even if you can't see it. Target match shooter's see it all the time, it's called mirage. No wind to speak of and you cant see the air move but it is. Just give the trap a bit of time. You really need to know about the wind and set the trap where it does you the most good.
Using the trap, be a wild bird and then some. Bring your dog cross wind of the trap if you can, preferably about ten yds. off the bird. If the dog is on the scent side it will let you know, learn to read your dog. It will give some indication that there is something over there and at that moment you pop the bird and don't say a word. Bear in mind you know exactly where the bird is and most times you exactly where a breeze is coming from, use that to your advantage. If your dog goes by on the upwind side it gets anywhere near the 10 yd limit, pop the bird., Do not leave it there and bring the dog around again hoping to get a point, a wild bird won't do that and neither should you. Take your dog on to the next trap and go thru the whole routine again, KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT THE WHOLE TIME EXCEPT TO BRING THE DOG BACK AROUND. That is important, you are not the trainer now, the bird is, make the dog deal with the bird. That is the big advantage of pigeons in the training field and wild birds. You will of course, have to turn the dog over to game birds after this. You do not let the dog establish point. You will find that within relatively few birds the dog will beat you to the point. When that happens, do not flush the bird. Go out and around the dog where you can see even it's eye's, very important. If the dog budges a misscule bit, stop and pop the bird at the same time. I suspect it will move some part of the body the first few times. Watch the shoulder's for any sign of movement, same with the hind end. To get going again it will have to move these part's. As you progress, you'll find the dog starting to let you get farther around it but, now pay attention to the eyes. He's gonna be trying to figure this out and he knows every time he moves a bit and your coming around, the bird fly's. So what his next move is is to move only his eyes toward you, pop immediately, he can't move a thing. And continue to say nothing till he get's it right and lets you get to the bird without popping it. Don't wait till your to the bird all the way to pop it. That's not gonna happen with wild birds unless you got some great cover. Once you've got to that point and the dog lets you do what you want to do, now praise the dog. Don't worry about it busting at the flush right now, let it chase, you take that out later.
It's all pretty easy, think stupid. That's what the dog is doing. He bunch's up on point because he's pretty sure he can catch the bird. Then he figure's he can't catch the bird but doesn't want to move now, he's just stuck, so he glances over to you coming around him for help. He does that and you pop the bird. Keep in mind that all the dog wants to do is catch the bird. What you want is to get into position to shoot the bird. What the birds wants is none of this stuff. You control the bird that well, you control the outcome.
I pity the man that has never been loved by a dog!
