My pup is about 6 months old now and I have some questions.
1) How do I go about getting him used to a check cord? when I put him on it he takes off running and then hangs himself and usually flips over pretty hard.
2) What do I need to work with him on? I have never had a pu this young and I don't know where to start.
I have a trainer that Iam going to starting next month to train me to train the pup, but I thought I would try to get him used to the check cord.
Also should I be looking at getting a shock collar? not for right but for later on.
Jon
Check cord
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kninebirddog
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Re: Check cord
For getting used to restriction I put my puppies on a chain gang or stake out with a collar that is on enough where it will not slide off their head and let the pup figure it out ..let them flp flop cry whine tug pull and I do no save them,,as if you feel sorry and save them they win they learn that reacting will get them out of something they do not like
as for an E collar you have plenty of time but I prefer Tri Tronics for when it comes time to over laying cues and commands to the collar...The E collar is not for training it is to maintain the training it has learned
If you can try and talk to the person you will be training with and see if they will show you how to prep for the next step of puppy training
as for an E collar you have plenty of time but I prefer Tri Tronics for when it comes time to over laying cues and commands to the collar...The E collar is not for training it is to maintain the training it has learned
If you can try and talk to the person you will be training with and see if they will show you how to prep for the next step of puppy training
"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the United States of America, and to the republic for which it stands, one nation under God, indivisible, with liberty and justice for all."
"When I hear somebody talk about a horse or cow being stupid, I figure its a sure sign that the animal has outfoxed them." Tom Dorrance
If you feel like you are banging your head against the wall, try using the door.
"When I hear somebody talk about a horse or cow being stupid, I figure its a sure sign that the animal has outfoxed them." Tom Dorrance
If you feel like you are banging your head against the wall, try using the door.
Re: Check cord
Puppies I raised got a check cord in the litter box when their eyes opened. Puppies in a litter box grab things that move and like to pull around what they caught. They start learning in the whelping box to give to the check cord. Pup's I buy, get a check cord before I ever let then hit the ground, about a 10" piece of 1/4" cotton clothes line.
If your dog gets caught and flipped on the check cord, your either putting it on him wrong or have a bad cc. A check cord on a pup that age can be a full length cord. That means one you'll be able to handle when your using it. That will probably be a 20' cord. 3/8th to 1/2 in tight woven nylon with a cotton core, should be fairly stiff. As the cord gets used it will soak up dirt and water making it stiffer, stiff but not to stiff is what you need. Never turn the dog lose without it on. Your right, it will take off without you holding on to it. Not a problem, it'll be back around and when your close enough to get to the cord, step on it, don't try to pick it up till you got it under your foot. A stiff cord will bounce off brush much better than a soft limp one. And there should be a jamb knot on the end you hold that is taken out to let the dog run, take out the jamb knot, make it stiff and it will not get hung up around brush and with the knot out it will not get caught in the fork of a bush. With the knot tied in, that will keep the dog from pulling the cc out of your hand as you feed the cc in and out. That cc is a 20' extension of your arm, if you can't get to it when you give a command, your can't enforce the command.
As for the e=collar, soon as it fit's them I have them start wearing it. Just leave the transmitter in the house and don't turn on the collar.It will not hurt them, especially turned off, and you can't bump it even by accident it it's off and the transmitter is in the house. Remember something about these tools we train with, they do not train anything. What they do do is allow you to make immediate corrections, if they are used right. All the training is done by you!
Keep in mind while learning to use the tools, trainers all seem to have their own way of doing things, even with the same tools. The only thing two trainers are likely to agree on is what the third is doing wrong.
If your dog gets caught and flipped on the check cord, your either putting it on him wrong or have a bad cc. A check cord on a pup that age can be a full length cord. That means one you'll be able to handle when your using it. That will probably be a 20' cord. 3/8th to 1/2 in tight woven nylon with a cotton core, should be fairly stiff. As the cord gets used it will soak up dirt and water making it stiffer, stiff but not to stiff is what you need. Never turn the dog lose without it on. Your right, it will take off without you holding on to it. Not a problem, it'll be back around and when your close enough to get to the cord, step on it, don't try to pick it up till you got it under your foot. A stiff cord will bounce off brush much better than a soft limp one. And there should be a jamb knot on the end you hold that is taken out to let the dog run, take out the jamb knot, make it stiff and it will not get hung up around brush and with the knot out it will not get caught in the fork of a bush. With the knot tied in, that will keep the dog from pulling the cc out of your hand as you feed the cc in and out. That cc is a 20' extension of your arm, if you can't get to it when you give a command, your can't enforce the command.
As for the e=collar, soon as it fit's them I have them start wearing it. Just leave the transmitter in the house and don't turn on the collar.It will not hurt them, especially turned off, and you can't bump it even by accident it it's off and the transmitter is in the house. Remember something about these tools we train with, they do not train anything. What they do do is allow you to make immediate corrections, if they are used right. All the training is done by you!
Keep in mind while learning to use the tools, trainers all seem to have their own way of doing things, even with the same tools. The only thing two trainers are likely to agree on is what the third is doing wrong.
I pity the man that has never been loved by a dog!
Re: Check cord
..............................................DonF wrote:Puppies I raised got a check cord in the litter box when their eyes opened. Puppies in a litter box grab things that move and like to pull around what they caught. They start learning in the whelping box to give to the check cord. Pup's I buy, get a check cord before I ever let then hit the ground, about a 10" piece of 1/4" cotton clothes line.
If your dog gets caught and flipped on the check cord, your either putting it on him wrong or have a bad cc. A check cord on a pup that age can be a full length cord. That means one you'll be able to handle when your using it. That will probably be a 20' cord. 3/8th to 1/2 in tight woven nylon with a cotton core, should be fairly stiff. As the cord gets used it will soak up dirt and water making it stiffer, stiff but not to stiff is what you need. Never turn the dog lose without it on. Your right, it will take off without you holding on to it. Not a problem, it'll be back around and when your close enough to get to the cord, step on it, don't try to pick it up till you got it under your foot. A stiff cord will bounce off brush much better than a soft limp one. And there should be a jamb knot on the end you hold that is taken out to let the dog run, take out the jamb knot, make it stiff and it will not get hung up around brush and with the knot out it will not get caught in the fork of a bush. With the knot tied in, that will keep the dog from pulling the cc out of your hand as you feed the cc in and out. That cc is a 20' extension of your arm, if you can't get to it when you give a command, your can't enforce the command.
As for the e=collar, soon as it fit's them I have them start wearing it. Just leave the transmitter in the house and don't turn on the collar.It will not hurt them, especially turned off, and you can't bump it even by accident it it's off and the transmitter is in the house. Remember something about these tools we train with, they do not train anything. What they do do is allow you to make immediate corrections, if they are used right. All the training is done by you!
Really? Interesting.
I suggest you go with Kninebirddog's "stake" suggestion,J Mac. . It works fine. Then consider a Wonder lead.
kninebirddog wrote: Tue Sep 20, 2011 7:07 pm
For getting used to restriction I put my puppies on a chain gang or stake out with a collar that is on well enough where it will not slide off their head and let the pup figure it out ..let them flp flop ,cry, whine. tug, pull and I do not save them,,as if you feel sorry and save them they win they learn that reacting will get them out of something they do not like.As for an E collar you have plenty of time."
" We are more than our gender, skin color, class, sexuality or age; we are unlimited potential, and can not be defined by one label." quote A. Bartlett
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Ruffshooter
- GDF Junkie
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- Location: Maine
Re: Check cord
Chain gang is fine for what has been said to use it for but, puppy's need to run and gain independence, You need a way to have some manner of getting them as they go by.
Don is right on the money. Not discounting what Arlett has said just that when the pup is loose, it needs to have cc cord on it 20' stiff no knot. Knot when working.
Don is right on the money. Not discounting what Arlett has said just that when the pup is loose, it needs to have cc cord on it 20' stiff no knot. Knot when working.
The best part of training is seeing the light come on in your little prot'eg'e.
Rick
Rick
Re: Check cord
There is some doubt it sounds like? Well this not a program I discovered myself. Been doing it close to 25yrs and it works for me. It comes from Delmar Smith.
The idea is that the pup is conditioned to the check cord from the whelping box. At about 2 weeks a cord is tied on each pup, it is a few inches longer than the pup and 1/4' closeline. The cord is easy for the pup to drag around. It is tied on with a knot exactly the opposite of a slip knot. It is done that way on purpose. Pups grow very fast and this set up can be adjusted looser very easy. Bt the time they are crawling out of the box. their cord will be to short so simply make another, this time maybe a foot longer that the pup. Very light, easy for the pup to pull, conditions the pup to having it slid across his body and more importantly, teaches it to give to the cc when litter mates pull on it. By 8 weeks they should graduate to a 10' 1/4" check cord.
Squirt at 8wks.
Bodie at 8wks-the knot used wwith this is clearly seen on Bodie.
I get down on my knees and play with them and call them once in a while, they have nowhere to go except me. It's really gentle. If they get intrested in something else and I don't want them to, the only choice they have is to do as I ask. I've got an arm that's about 12' long! Walking and letting them run, they get close enough, I call and step on their cord at the same time, we worked up to this from the whelping box.
One of the things Delmar said that really got me was, "don't ever let your dog or your wife tell you no". He also said, "never set your dog up to fail". With the pup on a cord so young and you reserving the commands till you can enforce them, the pup never fails. It always must do what you call it to do. Of course setting the pup up to fail would be giving a command you can't enforce. Your pup is running around the yard with no cc and you give it a call. It has two choices; come to you or not. The pup has been set up to fail because if it doesn't want to come then, you can't make it and it finds out it can doe as it pleases cause you can't catch it either!
The idea is that the pup is conditioned to the check cord from the whelping box. At about 2 weeks a cord is tied on each pup, it is a few inches longer than the pup and 1/4' closeline. The cord is easy for the pup to drag around. It is tied on with a knot exactly the opposite of a slip knot. It is done that way on purpose. Pups grow very fast and this set up can be adjusted looser very easy. Bt the time they are crawling out of the box. their cord will be to short so simply make another, this time maybe a foot longer that the pup. Very light, easy for the pup to pull, conditions the pup to having it slid across his body and more importantly, teaches it to give to the cc when litter mates pull on it. By 8 weeks they should graduate to a 10' 1/4" check cord.
Squirt at 8wks.
Bodie at 8wks-the knot used wwith this is clearly seen on Bodie.
I get down on my knees and play with them and call them once in a while, they have nowhere to go except me. It's really gentle. If they get intrested in something else and I don't want them to, the only choice they have is to do as I ask. I've got an arm that's about 12' long! Walking and letting them run, they get close enough, I call and step on their cord at the same time, we worked up to this from the whelping box.
One of the things Delmar said that really got me was, "don't ever let your dog or your wife tell you no". He also said, "never set your dog up to fail". With the pup on a cord so young and you reserving the commands till you can enforce them, the pup never fails. It always must do what you call it to do. Of course setting the pup up to fail would be giving a command you can't enforce. Your pup is running around the yard with no cc and you give it a call. It has two choices; come to you or not. The pup has been set up to fail because if it doesn't want to come then, you can't make it and it finds out it can doe as it pleases cause you can't catch it either!
I pity the man that has never been loved by a dog!
Re: Check cord
I saw a dog who had hung himself on a rope that had been left on him. I'm always very nervous about unsupervised ropes on dog, choke chains left on unsupervised etc. Just speaking from my experience.(That is a beautiful pup.)
" We are more than our gender, skin color, class, sexuality or age; we are unlimited potential, and can not be defined by one label." quote A. Bartlett
Re: Check cord
You are right about that. That's why the check cord has to be stiff and nothing on the trailing end to get caught anywhere. On really young pup's, I don't let them do to awful much exploring till the 20' cord is on them, about three month's. Then put the right cord on them and turn them loose. The cords I've seen people get from dog supply places are almost always poor cords. Some of them even have handles made on the trailing end and all I've seen are just way to soft. Leaving choke chain collars on a dog is simply asking for trouble, it's a tool like any other and needs to be used properly. You get done with the lesson's, it must come off. The same goes for the German Claw collar and the pinch collar. A dog with any of those on must be in hand at all times.Sharon wrote:I saw a dog who had hung himself on a rope that had been left on him. I'm always very nervous about unsupervised ropes on dog, choke chains left on unsupervised etc. Just speaking from my experience.(That is a beautiful pup.)
I pity the man that has never been loved by a dog!
Re: Check cord
Ok guys been gone awhile, right now I have been working with getting him used to a lead I thought that I was doing ok with it but then I had a lady explain to me how to actually do it and found that I have not done as good a job as I thought.
As from what I can tell I need to put the cc on him and just let him run while he is wearing it. I am thinking about taking him to a game preserve and letting him hunt by ourselves. I have not had him on birds yet, would this be a good thing?
As from what I can tell I need to put the cc on him and just let him run while he is wearing it. I am thinking about taking him to a game preserve and letting him hunt by ourselves. I have not had him on birds yet, would this be a good thing?
Re: Check cord
Yes, really.Sharon wrote:..............................................DonF wrote:Puppies I raised got a check cord in the litter box when their eyes opened. Puppies in a litter box grab things that move and like to pull around what they caught. They start learning in the whelping box to give to the check cord. Pup's I buy, get a check cord before I ever let then hit the ground, about a 10" piece of 1/4" cotton clothes line.
If your dog gets caught and flipped on the check cord, your either putting it on him wrong or have a bad cc. A check cord on a pup that age can be a full length cord. That means one you'll be able to handle when your using it. That will probably be a 20' cord. 3/8th to 1/2 in tight woven nylon with a cotton core, should be fairly stiff. As the cord gets used it will soak up dirt and water making it stiffer, stiff but not to stiff is what you need. Never turn the dog lose without it on. Your right, it will take off without you holding on to it. Not a problem, it'll be back around and when your close enough to get to the cord, step on it, don't try to pick it up till you got it under your foot. A stiff cord will bounce off brush much better than a soft limp one. And there should be a jamb knot on the end you hold that is taken out to let the dog run, take out the jamb knot, make it stiff and it will not get hung up around brush and with the knot out it will not get caught in the fork of a bush. With the knot tied in, that will keep the dog from pulling the cc out of your hand as you feed the cc in and out. That cc is a 20' extension of your arm, if you can't get to it when you give a command, your can't enforce the command.
As for the e=collar, soon as it fit's them I have them start wearing it. Just leave the transmitter in the house and don't turn on the collar.It will not hurt them, especially turned off, and you can't bump it even by accident it it's off and the transmitter is in the house. Remember something about these tools we train with, they do not train anything. What they do do is allow you to make immediate corrections, if they are used right. All the training is done by you!
Really? Interesting.
I see Don has done a good job of explaining.
The litter box is the best place to introduce giving to the lead.
If the CC is hanging up you do not have a CC you have a rope. Get a proper cord and it won't hang up.