Delmar Smith methods - do you really do this?

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topher40
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Post by topher40 » Tue Oct 30, 2007 7:52 pm

Kalel-
Use some common sense, dont leave the dog out in the snow, the direct heat, or even in a closet for days. If it is warm enough stake the dog out for an hour the first time and leave him. Then build up from there. Dont neglect the dog and always be able to peek out the window for the first couple of times every 10 minutes or so. If he gets wound up in the chain dont worry about it thats part of the process. Make sure you have plenty of swivels on it so he doesnt kill himself. After all the info you got from this post you should be fine, but like I said USE COMMON SENSE. If you live in town dont forget to check the local laws also cause last thing you need is a fine. :lol:
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Don
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Post by Don » Tue Oct 30, 2007 8:13 pm

kalel,

If you want your dog to get use to a check cord, put him on a check cord everytime you turn him loose. The pup's I raised got check cords at 10 days! The pup's I bought got check cords when I picked them up. Dog's on chain gangs get the chain gang because two stakes are faster to drive than eight! If a chain gang teaches a dog anything other than it and it's seven coharts can't get away, I have no idea what it is. All eight of those dogs will get just as excited on their own personnal stake as a chain gang, you'll just have to drive and remove six more stakes!
Never set your dog up to fail - Delmar smith

The greatest room in the world is the room for improvement - William F. Brown

Some people think to much like people and not enough like dogs!

slistoe
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Post by slistoe » Wed Oct 31, 2007 12:07 am

What we do with ours is we have a short (20") rope with swivel attached to the leg of the piano which sits near the kitchen table. At 7 weeks or older we bring the pup in when we sit down to supper and snap him on the rope. He gets a nice little blanket and a chew. The first night it is fight, howl, sit at the end of the rope, etc. etc. He can see us and we can see him and we eat our meal. At the end of supper I let him off and take him to the whelping box again. Repeat the next night. After a few times he will calmly accept the tether and lay relaxed. Then we can leave the sight of the pup for short periods, returning to pay him some attention and maybe let him off. Soon he comes to trust that we will always return and there is no need to worry if left alone.

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okiebirdhunter
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Post by okiebirdhunter » Wed Nov 07, 2007 5:07 pm

No Don, He's a linebred Riggin's White Knight and Red Water Rex through Elhew Copper Strike, Evolution, and some other Tom Smith dogs. Mostly just hunting dogs on the sire's side that go back to RWK and Guard Rail. Nothing fancy....but he handles like a million bucks.

I'm sorry you disagree... you too have a right to be wrong. :lol:

I know it just doesn't seem right to put a pup on the chain at a young age but I know Tom Smith does it, and every guy I know who has ever worked for him and Delmar do it and it works.

I also put puppies on a rubber check cord rather than a nylon check cord and that keeps the fire in them.

Of course the only wrong way to train a dog is to train them in a way that doesn't work... so everyone has the freedom to train how they want...

John Bellah

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Don
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Post by Don » Wed Nov 07, 2007 7:31 pm

Well geeze Okie. Even if I'm wrong I still like your dog. Where did you get it anyway?

Lot of people use the chain gang and swear by it. Me to if I have to stake out more than two dogs.:D I don't think there's anything wrong with it, I just never saw where it accomplished all the things people say it does.

If it's used to get a dog excited, I don't know that I'd want the dog in the first place. If it's used to get a dog to give to a cord, I do that with a cord really early. Perhaps that's why it never worked for me, Pup's always drag around a check cord when they are loose and by the time training starts, they always give. My pup's happy time with a check cord on. To get a dog to just tie out, I just tie them out. I have four eye bolts on my truck, one on each side of the front bumper and same on the back. I use 18" dropper chains on them. With dogs that constently jump at the end of a tieout, I'll put a rubber bungee shorter than the chain by several inches. Then when the dog lunges, it hits the end and the bungee pulls back. Works pretty good.

But I really do like that dog of your's!
Never set your dog up to fail - Delmar smith

The greatest room in the world is the room for improvement - William F. Brown

Some people think to much like people and not enough like dogs!

TrueBlu Shorthairs

Post by TrueBlu Shorthairs » Thu Nov 08, 2007 8:43 am

Read all you can, watch all of the videos, then, find a good mentor who will allow you to spend time watching and then helping. A mentor will teach you and the dog more than any 50 books ever will. You will most likely pay the pro for "lessons", but the money spent will put you miles ahead. Be prepared to wash kennels, feed and water dogs, haul dogs to the airport, do anything he/she asks. The ONLY way to train dogs is to put your hands on a lot of dogs!!

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okiebirdhunter
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Post by okiebirdhunter » Thu Nov 08, 2007 8:22 pm

Don, an old neighbor of mine gave him to me. He is good friends with Tom and Delmar Smith and his son used to train for Tom. He gave me a pup. That picture is of my pup at 7 months. He is now 19 months and I have a female that is 7 months out of Ch. Phantom's Wizard and a NC Miller's Silver Ending female.

The main reason to use a chain gang is that there is not a person on the end of the chain. The dog associates everything with himself and not you. Did I mention that rubber check cords work great for puppies?

John Bellah

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