e-collar what to do?

[bigsugar]

You should try it sometime. In my experience the end result is a dog much more staunch then any other way. I have to have a dog that is over the hill broke without any collar on him. I have found the belly collar the best route to get there.

[slistoe]

This dog was this way when he got here.

My apologies bigsugar. "Someone" was one dimensional with the dogs training. But you are the one that needs to fix it so bring the dog in the yard.

[duckn66]

Every dog I've ever owned for the last 45 years has been a full blown collar dog, retriever or pointing dog. I don't care how well trained you think a dog is, one day he'll give you the paw and take off. The ecollar is the greatest safety aid ever invented for the dog trainer, the Astro is the second.

You have to work him on ALL commands with the collar, not just one. The dog must understand that the collar is nothing more than an extension of the cc, leash, or heeling stick. Every command he knows on the cc must be transfered to the ecollar. He must sit, down, come, fetch, heel, whoa, etc and all by ecollar.

Stimulate him only about once every three commands. If you only work him on one command, like here, that will become his default command and no matter the command, he will always come to you. That's why ALL commands must be reinforced by collar. The cc attached is your safety insurance that the dog won't bolt and run off on you.

It's really a simple procedure as long as you work at low intensity.

Perfect!

I have a dogta collar. First one I ever had and now I will never be without one for my retrievers. Kind of like force fetch. Won't own a retriever with doing FF with it! But thats just me. Is FF and a collar necessary to have a good hunting dog? Absolutely not.

On the #2 setting that dog is barely feeling anything. And if your getting a reaction out of him at that setting thats awesome! Key is to use it on all commands but not all the time like said above. Using it all the time IMO will result in dog that won't respond unless stimulated, just one of the many problems.

Collars are great if used correctly. But, unfortunately there have been more dogs ruined with them than helped with them.

[Ryman Gun Dog]

Mister2,
Without seeing your dog it is very hard to give you advise, 1st what dog breed do you own?
It sounds like you own a soft dog who my really only need a beeper to control him, seldom if ever needing to be shocked.
Not all dogs can be trained using the same method, some individual soft dogs respond adversly to the e-collar.
I suggest you get some professional advise from a trainer who can actually see your dog and judge what is really happening.
My advise right now is to stop using the e-collar until you understand more about your dog.
RGD/Dave

[ezzy333]

I have a dog here now that was taught to handle with a collar on his neck and later he was broke with a collar on his neck. Now when he gets out lateral or makes a bad move and you nick him with the collar he stops on you. No matter how far away he is you have to go to him and release him. What do you think caused that?

Poor training

Ezzy

[ST8 UPPOINTERS]

Whoa breaking before teaching here with the collar. It's his default to stop.

[ezzy333]

Every dog I've ever owned for the last 45 years has been a full blown collar dog, retriever or pointing dog. I don't care how well trained you think a dog is, one day he'll give you the paw and take off. The ecollar is the greatest safety aid ever invented for the dog trainer, the Astro is the second.

You have to work him on ALL commands with the collar, not just one. The dog must understand that the collar is nothing more than an extension of the cc, leash, or heeling stick. Every command he knows on the cc must be transfered to the ecollar. He must sit, down, come, fetch, heel, whoa, etc and all by ecollar.

Stimulate him only about once every three commands. If you only work him on one command, like here, that will become his default command and no matter the command, he will always come to you. That's why ALL commands must be reinforced by collar. The cc attached is your safety insurance that the dog won't bolt and run off on you.

It's really a simple procedure as long as you work at low intensity.

Perfect!

I have a dogta collar. First one I ever had and now I will never be without one for my retrievers. Kind of like force fetch. Won't own a retriever with doing FF with it! But thats just me. Is FF and a collar necessary to have a good hunting dog? Absolutely not.

On the #2 setting that dog is barely feeling anything. And if your getting a reaction out of him at that setting thats awesome! Key is to use it on all commands but not all the time like said above. Using it all the time IMO will result in dog that won't respond unless stimulated, just one of the many problems.

Collars are great if used correctly. But, unfortunately there have been more dogs ruined with them than helped with them.

I think you were on a roll till you got to your last sentence and I am quite sure that is not true since almost every dog that has had an e-collar on is a better dog for it. True a few have been ruined by the person with the transmitter. But over all it has done more for our dogs than any other tool.

Ezzy

[BigTub]

I would be interested in hearing from some folks that use the collar on the flank how they eventually transition to the collar on the neck for whoa.

It makes no sence to transition from flank to neck imo . Start with one a stay there, that's y I do all my ecollar work on the neck, but that's just me.[/quote]


The transition is my question also. Both my Britts are good on "come" on the neck and "whoa" on the flank (awfully cautious, though). They always come to me with any neck stimlation (double tap = come and contious = whoa, supposedly).

Also, I am lost on whoa in the presence of flushing birds. I really don't want the dog to assosiate birds with stimulation.

BTW: I never have to go above 1.5 (Tritronics Sport Upland) unless they are chasing rabbits. 2 is a yelp getter on these dogs. When I have tried to use continous even as low as 0.5 or 1, they slink back to me.

[Sharon]

quote="bigsugar"]I have a dog here now that was taught to handle with a collar on his neck and later he was broke with a collar on his neck. Now when he gets out lateral or makes a bad move and you nick him with the collar he stops on you. No matter how far away he is you have to go to him and release him. What do you think caused that?[/quote]


Now wouldn't that be a total drag? Teach him to move on when hearing one toot on the whistle.

[bigsugar]

Tub if you whoa break your dogs on a barrel or a table where they can't jump off that's where you should be flushing birds in front of them to take the anticipation of the flush out of them. It's a lot easier to train dogs off the ground I think. When you take them out of their element it seems to make training much faster for me.

As far as transitioning back to the neck from the belly collar. I don't. I run them with a belly collar on them and let them roll that way. I work them on birds that way also.

Ends up looking like this.



Here's another young dog I was fooling with chicken hunting. She hunted with the collar on her belly for a few months until I thought she was reliable without it.



When your dogs are broke right you should have no need to transition the collar to their neck. You should be able to correct a dog with your voice as long as you stay calm and don't get too excited.