Do It Yourself Backing Dog

Post by **Greg Jennings** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 10:18 am

All,

If anyone has a pop-up backing dog silhoette and will send me pictures, I'll design a remote backing dog using the electronics in the other thread and post step-by-step instructions.

Best regards,

Gregory · Post by **Gregory** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 1:27 pm

[quote="Greg Jennings"]All,

If anyone has a pop-up backing dog silhoette and will send me pictures, I'll design a remote backing dog using the electronics in the other thread and post step-by-step instructions.

Best regards,[/quo

That's a heck of an idea,Greg.
Hope you make it hapen.

G

P.S.
When you design the tail make it in two parts.That way you can train for the short tails as well as the long....
just a thot....

portsider44 · Post by **portsider44** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 1:43 pm

http://www.gundogmag.com/training/startle_0127/

Not the greatest pictures, but maybe they will work.[/url]

Post by **Greg Jennings** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 2:05 pm

I really need pictures of a backing dog that will "pop up".

I know how to build the electronics. What I need to get is ideas for how to make the base and how to store the energy to make it pop up.

If I could get some ideas on a trigger mechanism, that would be peachy, but I've done enough gunsmithing, built a trebuchet, trapped as a kid, etc., that I have a pretty broad experience with triggers.

If anyone has ideas, I'd love to hear them! And, thank you for yours, Gregory. I appreciate it very much.

Best,

snip · Post by **snip** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 2:46 pm

You might find one under Innotek website. If a dog will back a dog with a short tail you don`t have to worry about them backing a long tail dog. On the other hand you don`t want to hurt the feelings of the tail people. If you are training for a hunt test you might want to put a tail on it that goes down and wags.

Gregory · Post by **Gregory** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 5:24 pm

Greg.

The one my buddy has (don't know which brand) is built on a square tubing made of metal plat form.app/18"x18" square. The Dummy is attached front and rear on a swivel bracket with a bolt that runs through it. To where you can lay the dummy on his side for trasport and to allow the heavy spring to bring the dummy on an upright position once the trigger or latch is tripped. The dummy is put on the up right motion by the tension of the spring which is attached to the the dummy's belly area and to the metal platform. The spring tention if memory serves me can be adjusted by turning a bolt that runs center of it. Much like you can adjust the spring of a portable trap thrower's..

Since you have the experience of a gun smith,then disign the latch to be released same as a trigger blade trips the sear from it's notch.. Or use the design you have on the launcher you built..

Hope that gives you an idea.
G

Coveyrise64 · Post by **Coveyrise64** » Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:51 pm

The Innotek Backing Dog uses a 12volt DC gear motor to raise/lower the silhouette. By using the gear motor there is no need for stored energy type mechanisms (i.e., springs) for power. I made a backing dog using a spring loaded door hinge. Got it to raise but had to manually reset. Sometimes I think that is all you need though. Let me know if I can help.

Coveyrise64

dhondtm · Post by **dhondtm** » Tue Mar 08, 2005 11:39 pm

I don't mean to take this off topic, but any of you electronic wizards know what mechanism is needed for a proximety trigger? I am interested in bird releases that will release when the dog gets within a certain distance of the release. Perhaps the same thing can be done for the backing. I believe someone had a patten for such a device but one of these big companies bought it out and never developed it since they get more sales off the current product they have.

Anyhow, I'd love to hear ideas of possible solutions for such a device.

goddog · Post by **goddog** » Fri Mar 11, 2005 12:24 am

The first generation Innotek had this feature, it came out about 10 years ago. The lancher had a adjustable control for sensitivity or for distance, I never did see the collar unit for it. It was developed mainly for the flushing breed but I was told later the design was unsuccessful. The unit often went off when the dog actually faced the wrong direction and never saw the flush, so they went forward with the remote control unit. It make sense. I can't tell you how many time the dog never see the flush even with me at the control for STF.

As for the backing dog

Greg,
How about use a R/C servo that spins the plank in 90o clutch. So at 0 and 180 it would only have the profile of a stick. We can paint the plank unique on each side, so when clutch it at 90 and 270 it looks like we have a 2 diffrent dogs.

Blink blink.............

Steve

Post by **Greg Jennings** » Fri Mar 11, 2005 7:57 am

Hey Steve,

That's an interesting idea! It would solve the problem with popping it up with springs...might make it lighter and easier to transport.

The dog could be made out of foam poster board rather than plywood.

Hmmmm. That starts to give me ideas..... (Greg goes into high-level design mode).

Best regards,

Gregory · Post by **Gregory** » Fri Mar 11, 2005 11:47 am

You boys best scrap that idea :shock: Cause there will come a time when the dog is not going to be on a check cord, and you will not have the control ,nor will you have the element of surprise in your corner either. Me think, if I understand your theory corectly.

G

P.S. if you want to cut down on weight you can make the dummy out of metal the thickness of a window airconditioner housing. 14 ga?

MSC SMOKE · Post by **MSC SMOKE** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 9:47 am

I was snooping around some older posts with ideas of this type of DIY dog myself. Did this ever go any farther?

Post by **Sharon** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 1:23 pm

I just use my second dog.
I put him on point over the crest of a hill or around a corner. It works great for teaching backing.
I get help from another person.
He works the first dog into a point, while I bring the second dog over the hill.
You can switch and work the other dog too.

3Britts · Post by **3Britts** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 5:26 pm

Sharon wrote:I just use my second dog.
I put him on point over the crest of a hill or around a corner. It works great for teaching backing.

+1
I just use my male to train my younger female. I start out using the checkcord on the younger dog as I move both dogs into my bird field. When my older dog goes on point, I work the younger dog until she understands what her job is, backing. After a few practice sessions, I release both and see what happens. So far, the younger dog will back honestly about 40 % of the time. She is only 13 months afterall.

Don · Post by **Don** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 1:55 pm

I have a backing sillouette that I painted white and liver on one side and solid liver on the other. My dog see's it, I pop the bird. My dog backs it and I go flush the bird. either way when I leave I just knock it over.

Scott Linden · Post by **Scott Linden** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:19 pm

snip wrote:You might find one under Innotek website. If a dog will back a dog with a short tail you don`t have to worry about them backing a long tail dog. On the other hand you don`t want to hurt the feelings of the tail people. If you are training for a hunt test you might want to put a tail on it that goes down and wags.

And don't forget the most important parts: bushy eyebrows and a BEARD.

Post by **Sharon** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:43 pm

When I used a wooden dog, I put some thin cloth strips on the tail so it looks like it's alive and blowing in the wind.

Gun Dog Forum

Do It Yourself Backing Dog

Do It Yourself Backing Dog

Re: Do It Yourself Backing Dog

DIY Backing Dog

Re: Do It Yourself Backing Dog

Re: Do It Yourself Backing Dog

Re: Do It Yourself Backing Dog

Re: Do It Yourself Backing Dog

Re:

Re: Do It Yourself Backing Dog