Whistle training standards??
Whistle training standards??
So I ordered a whistle because we have a big fenced in yard (1 acre) and I want to start to work on recall some more. My pup is 16 weeks by the way.
What I want to do is combine the command 'Here' with the whistle, and my understanding is by doing this, eventually, I'll be able to use one or the other and get the same result. Am I off base yet?
If not, my question is, if down the road I want to use other whistle commands in the field, is there a standard whistle used for 'Here' and for other commands? One long blast, two short, whatever? I actually don't mind if the sound of the whistle always means 'Here' and that's all it ever means, that would be fine, but I can't really find much online about training for this.
Thanks in advance.
What I want to do is combine the command 'Here' with the whistle, and my understanding is by doing this, eventually, I'll be able to use one or the other and get the same result. Am I off base yet?
If not, my question is, if down the road I want to use other whistle commands in the field, is there a standard whistle used for 'Here' and for other commands? One long blast, two short, whatever? I actually don't mind if the sound of the whistle always means 'Here' and that's all it ever means, that would be fine, but I can't really find much online about training for this.
Thanks in advance.
- Ruffshooter
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Re: Whistle training standards??
You can use different whistle for differet things. I like the pealess whistle (don't freeze up as easy.) I use one long blast for here, one short hard quick blast for stop or whoa, two short quick blast for come around or change direction.
The earlier you teach your commands the easier in the future. When whoa training on leash, you can do the walk and heel thing and incooperate the whistle. For come around when on check cord and you want to change direction. Go the other way just before the dog hits the end of the check cord, two toots & or comearoud command. When teaching come one long blast, have the dog sit, back up facing the puppy whistle then say come eventually you will be able to drop the verbal.
There are other ways to do this but it is what I do.
The earlier you teach your commands the easier in the future. When whoa training on leash, you can do the walk and heel thing and incooperate the whistle. For come around when on check cord and you want to change direction. Go the other way just before the dog hits the end of the check cord, two toots & or comearoud command. When teaching come one long blast, have the dog sit, back up facing the puppy whistle then say come eventually you will be able to drop the verbal.
There are other ways to do this but it is what I do.
The best part of training is seeing the light come on in your little prot'eg'e.
Rick
Rick
Re: Whistle training standards??
Excellent, thanks. I printed out your post.Ruffshooter wrote:You can use different whistle for differet things. I like the pealess whistle (don't freeze up as easy.) I use one long blast for here, one short hard quick blast for stop or whoa, two short quick blast for come around or change direction.
The earlier you teach your commands the easier in the future. When whoa training on leash, you can do the walk and heel thing and incooperate the whistle. For come around when on check cord and you want to change direction. Go the other way just before the dog hits the end of the check cord, two toots & or comearoud command. When teaching come one long blast, have the dog sit, back up facing the puppy whistle then say come eventually you will be able to drop the verbal.
There are other ways to do this but it is what I do.
This is the whistle I ordered: http://www.gundogsupply.com/ac210123lonw.html
If you are bored later and feel like getting into more detail with the whoa training on leash/walk/heel/incorporate whistle thing, I would be interested in more on that...
Re: Whistle training standards??
I agree. Excellent post.
When it comes to using the whistle, everyone is different. Do what suits you.
The only time a common whistle routine whould be followed, is if you plan to trial your dog. Not whistle training your dog can put him at a disadvantage when other whistles start going off and he's not used to it. ( Although I know some excellent handlers who never use a whistle.) If you want a big running dog, lay off the whistle.
I use it only, when the dog is m.i.a. , using one long , loud blast which means, " You'd better get your bum in here now !!"
When it comes to using the whistle, everyone is different. Do what suits you.
The only time a common whistle routine whould be followed, is if you plan to trial your dog. Not whistle training your dog can put him at a disadvantage when other whistles start going off and he's not used to it. ( Although I know some excellent handlers who never use a whistle.) If you want a big running dog, lay off the whistle.
I use it only, when the dog is m.i.a. , using one long , loud blast which means, " You'd better get your bum in here now !!"
" We are more than our gender, skin color, class, sexuality or age; we are unlimited potential, and can not be defined by one label." quote A. Bartlett
- gonehuntin'
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Re: Whistle training standards??
Everyone is a little different. With me, three blasts mean HERE, two blasts mean NO or CHANGE OF DIRECTION, one blast means WHOA or sit, depending on the dog.
LIFE WITHOUT BIRD DOGS AND FLY RODS REALLY ISN'T LIFE AT ALL.
Re: Whistle training standards??
Whistle means GO!
That's it for mine.
That's it for mine.
Re: Whistle training standards??
This is what i was talking about Eddie.
If you trial your dog, whistle means GO!!
If you've used the whistle to mean come in, and you're at the the line at a trial, and your bracemate blows his whistle, you're in trouble.
If you trial your dog, whistle means GO!!
If you've used the whistle to mean come in, and you're at the the line at a trial, and your bracemate blows his whistle, you're in trouble.
" We are more than our gender, skin color, class, sexuality or age; we are unlimited potential, and can not be defined by one label." quote A. Bartlett
Re: Whistle training standards??
I see the problem there!Sharon wrote:This is what i was talking about Eddie.
If you trial your dog, whistle means GO!!
If you've used the whistle to mean come in, and you're at the the line at a trial, and your bracemate blows his whistle, you're in trouble.
But I'm not going to trial. I just want to have a companion hunter and a dog I can get from the back of the back yard to the house without screaming my head off!
Re: Whistle training standards??
Then use the whistle as suits you.
" We are more than our gender, skin color, class, sexuality or age; we are unlimited potential, and can not be defined by one label." quote A. Bartlett
Re: Whistle training standards??
Silly boy....I just want to have a companion hunter and a dog I can get from the back of the back yard to the house without screaming my head off!
- Ruffshooter
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- Joined: Sun May 21, 2006 7:28 pm
- Location: Maine
Re: Whistle training standards??
Why would you use a whistle at the Break away line? Are the dogs deaf?
The best part of training is seeing the light come on in your little prot'eg'e.
Rick
Rick
Re: Whistle training standards??
I am not a bird hunter, but started using a pealess whistle for here, and with my pup i use here and then the whistle . When using the whistle i have nevr had him not come, where as just my voice dosent always have the same effect yet. I only use the whistle once or twice a day and have called him from maybe 40- 50 yards out of a pack of mutts at the dog park. IMHO If you are like me and just want a reliable recall with the whistle dont over do it and for a while have a good treat and really make a fuss when he responds.
Re: Whistle training standards??
So you use 'here' all the time, but some of the time you add the whistle with the command? Do you do the whistle before or after the command? And one more question, at the dog park do you just use the whistle by itself or whenever you use the whistle do you also add the command? Thanks!kumate wrote:I am not a bird hunter, but started using a pealess whistle for here, and with my pup i use here and then the whistle . When using the whistle i have nevr had him not come, where as just my voice dosent always have the same effect yet. I only use the whistle once or twice a day and have called him from maybe 40- 50 yards out of a pack of mutts at the dog park. IMHO If you are like me and just want a reliable recall with the whistle dont over do it and for a while have a good treat and really make a fuss when he responds.
Re: Whistle training standards??
put the dog on a long check cord use this sequence whistle -"here"- Pull him in.
Eventually he will anticipate the verbal "here" and then its no longer needed in the sequence, the whistle will become interchangeable with the verbal command in his mind. Continue to use the verbal also mix them up in training so he learns both. There will be times you will not have the whistle on you.
Personally I use 3 "toots" for here and one "toot" to turn him, I do that because if hes getting distracted with something I can continue to hack at him with the whistle and he will recognize the multiple "Toots" as a "here" command.
Eventually he will anticipate the verbal "here" and then its no longer needed in the sequence, the whistle will become interchangeable with the verbal command in his mind. Continue to use the verbal also mix them up in training so he learns both. There will be times you will not have the whistle on you.
Personally I use 3 "toots" for here and one "toot" to turn him, I do that because if hes getting distracted with something I can continue to hack at him with the whistle and he will recognize the multiple "Toots" as a "here" command.
currently two shorthairs, four english pointers, one Brittany, one SPRINGER a chihuahua and a min pin lol
Re: Whistle training standards??
Cool, thanks very much. This sounds great. The whistle shipped a few days ago, I'd be surprised if it doesn't arrive today. I can get started this weekend.bobman wrote:put the dog on a long check cord use this sequence whistle -"here"- Pull him in.
Eventually he will anticipate the verbal "here" and then its no longer needed in the sequence, the whistle will become interchangeable with the verbal command in his mind. Continue to use the verbal also mix them up in training so he learns both. There will be times you will not have the whistle on you.
Personally I use 3 "toots" for here and one "toot" to turn him, I do that because if hes getting distracted with something I can continue to hack at him with the whistle and he will recognize the multiple "Toots" as a "here" command.
Re: Whistle training standards??
You can use the protocall bobman stated, i was lucky in that i never used a longline/checkcord just name, here/ tweet tweet tweet. The goal would be using the verbal cue or the whistle to mean the same thing. If he is initialy blowing you off with the whistle the ckeckcord will asure compliance i just never had to as i use the whistle sparingly and always set him up for success. A little drill i have done since day one is dixiecup drills http://www.ponderosakennels.com/videoclips.htm Pat is not a bird dog trainer per se, but you can apply some of his stuff and his clips are free. With the dixie cup drills the minute he gets the treat off of the cup i would call his name say here and tweet tweet tweet with the whistle, once he gets the hang of it intermitently omit the whistle every once in awhile. Start out close then add distance. At 12 weeks he was doing about 20-25 yards now he gets the treat grabs the cup and brings it back and i will have him sit for another treat, give it a try it is fun and motivational.
Re: Whistle training standards??
Holy Tweeters!!
For all of you whistle nuts that don't trial, do you ever hunt with another whistle nut that has a completely different set of whistle commands?
I would love watch that fiasco.......
For all of you whistle nuts that don't trial, do you ever hunt with another whistle nut that has a completely different set of whistle commands?
I would love watch that fiasco.......
Re: Whistle training standards??
I had a front row seat on Saturday. I was asked to run a bye dog in SH, and figured I'd practise for an up-coming trial. I was happily tooting along to push my dog farther out, but each time I did, my bracemate's dog tightened up. Eventually, his dog came right up to me and I turned to my bracemate and said, "Let me guess, you taught your dog to 'come' to the whistle?" Since it was his dime, I immediately put my tweeter away, but the damage was done.Yawallac wrote:Holy Tweeters!!
For all of you whistle nuts that don't trial, do you ever hunt with another whistle nut that has a completely different set of whistle commands?
I would love watch that fiasco.......
I don't use a whistle when I hunt and I won't hunt with someone who does. "bleep" annoying.
Aline
http://sitekreator.com/zzfarms
Georgia Quail Hunting--"Our farm, your dog"
Re: Whistle training standards??
Some useful tips from me
The method of positive reinforcement is to give a food treat when the dog returns. Once you begin to move to solely using the whistle you might experience some problems. If this occurs then you will want to watch carefully and provide a treat when the dog returns directly to you. If the dog strays, then you will not provide a treat.
Some trainers choose to use negative reinforcement. This can include putting an electronic collar on the dog. This allows the trainer to give a jolt to the dog if the animal strays on the return. Consider the example of a dog who has retrieved a decoy and is coming back following the whistle command. If the dog strays and begins to wander then a subtle jolt from an electrical collar at the exact moment the animal strays will convey the desired information.
Hope that helped
Lucas
The method of positive reinforcement is to give a food treat when the dog returns. Once you begin to move to solely using the whistle you might experience some problems. If this occurs then you will want to watch carefully and provide a treat when the dog returns directly to you. If the dog strays, then you will not provide a treat.
Some trainers choose to use negative reinforcement. This can include putting an electronic collar on the dog. This allows the trainer to give a jolt to the dog if the animal strays on the return. Consider the example of a dog who has retrieved a decoy and is coming back following the whistle command. If the dog strays and begins to wander then a subtle jolt from an electrical collar at the exact moment the animal strays will convey the desired information.
Hope that helped
Lucas