Weimaraner pup only plays keep away..will not retrieve

[jboogie]

Hello,

I'm new here and enjoy reading this forum. I recently got a Weimaaraner puppy about ( 7-8 weeks) now. I'm trying to train him to retrieve birds. Recently I've been training him the basic's 'sit, stay, lay down, no'. This week I've been trying to teach him how to retrieve but he likes going after the dummy ( tied up sock) and running away with it to play instead of bringing it to me. I have also tried to tie the dummy to a string and the end of my fishing pole but he will just play tug of war. He also has a problem with dropping the dummy from his mouth unless I force pry his mouth. Can someone give me a few pointers on getting him to retrieve without running way with it? Thanks in advance for the advice, it’s much appreciated.

[Kato&Sanka]

For teaching drop it, I put yummy bits of meat in my hand and held it out, palm up, under the dogs chin so he had to drop the toy into my hand in order to eat the food. Added the verbal cue with the action. Worked like a charm.

For retrieval, I used 2 toys. Toss 1 and keep one. When the pup goes after the first one and gets it, wiggle the toy you kept around in the air and see if that'll bring the pup back. If not, try laying on the ground and try making the toy look interesting. If the pup comes, reward him with the toy you kept.

Also, keeping tosses short at first helps a bunch.

That's what worked for me anyway.

[jboogie]

nice! thanks for the advice! I'll try that tonight and this weekend. When should I start introducing him to feathers and frozen birds?

[steingre]

If you are inside, set it up so that you throw the object down a hallway, and the only avenue of return is right back to you.

If you're outside, you may have to do a little temporary "construction" - I have set up a couple of pieces of plywood alongside a garage, and even used some of the vinyl snow fencing. Repetition, treats, and only one way back works!

[zzweims]

Good advice. I might add that when you are playing retrieving games with a wee pup, it helps alot if you sit on the ground. A low body posture is less intimidating and more inviting. If he doesn't bring it back, no big deal. Just sit and enjoy the show. Usually, pup will come to you for a cuddle after prancing around a bit. Indulge him. Hold him, cuddle him, tell him he's a good boy, but DON'T try to take the toy out of his mouth. Let him enjoy his reward. When he drops it on his own--hopefully while he's still in your lap getting cuddled--pick it up and give it a short toss.

Aline
http://zzfarms.com

[jboogie]

Thanks for all the good advice. We tried the hallway thing a few times last night and the first few throws he ran after the dummy grabbed it and just sat there tearing it up haha. When I tried to distract him with the other toy, he just dropped the other toy where he was at and ran my way to get the other toy. We'll be working on this some more this weekend.

[SuperCracker]

Thanks for all the good advice. We tried the hallway thing a few times last night and the first few throws he ran after the dummy grabbed it and just sat there tearing it up haha. When I tried to distract him with the other toy, he just dropped the other toy where he was at and ran my way to get the other toy. We'll be working on this some more this weekend.

that's what mine does too

[RayGubernat]

jboogie -

As has been said, you are dealing with a very young pup. Most of my training of a youngster is more in the nature of "directed play'.

That being said, it sounds like you are teaching your puppy some things that will come back to bite you. You are teaching your puppy that it is OK to ignore you. You ar teaching your puppy that it has a vote in the decision making process. You are giving your puppy alpha status.

What we allow our dogs to do, we are teaching them to do. Always remember that.

I would, at the very least, put the sock away and work on "come" or "here". If the pup does not respond to the command, with encouragement, I would walk away. If trhe dog does not wish to play MY way, we do not play. It is that simple. Do not tolerate disobedience. Do not allow the dog to choose anything other than YOUR choice. If the dog makes a bad choice...there must be consequences, just as surely as if it makes a good choice there should be rewards.

I establish the rules, I issue the commands and it is MY way, or not at all. Anything other than that and you are going to have a test of wills, down the road and you might just lose that test of wills. Weims can be quite willful. You do not want to allow that sort of situation to develop. Now is the time to influence the puppy and get it to clearly and unmistakably understand who is in charge. My dogs are not allowed a choice when it comes to obedience issues. They obey or there are consequences. I am alpha they are subservient... always and every time. This starts with when they are puppies and continues for the rest of their lives.

RayG

[kninebirddog]

If you do not have a lead on the pup to help guide them to come to you have another item play bait and switch or Walk away most pups will follow

Very important that when the pup gets to you that you DO NOT just reach down and grab item out of the mouth this will lead to much more keep away..let them know they are doing great having the item in the mouth being with you have a lead let them carry it around as you walk around with them

have fun keep the session short and fun end with them wanting more and don't push it to failure

[surferdave]

Remember, keep sessions short. Puppies this age have very short attention spans, just 2 or 3 retrieves, never let the puppy get tired or bored of the game. Praise heavily, and as others have said, hallways or narrow areas to work in are the best. If the pup is food driven, give a bit of his kibble to him when he comes back with the sock etc. You definitely don't want him to tear away at it. Keep it fun, but as others have said, be careful for bad habits.

[jboogie]

We had our 2nd session last night and he did a whole lot better. This time I tried the kitchen instead of the hallway and it worked. The first throw he ran and got the sock, came back and came to my lap, I showed him the other toy ( but he wasn't that interested in it) so I gave him a treat and bamm he dropped the sock in my other hand. I was pretty excited, He did that the next 3-4 throws. I also had the wife hand him a treat and he dropped the sock in my hand and got the treat from her. I wanted to keep throwing it so he can learn but I didn't want to bore him or over train him. I kept it simple and short. He got the point. Thanks again guys. We'll work on this more and next step will be feathers

Did yall start your puppy out with live wing clipped birds or frozen dead birds? Thanks again

[steingre]

My first step with "feathers" has always been a small canvas dummy with a couple of quail or pheasant wings securely attached. I use that for a couple of weeks before trying birds.

I have had limited success using frozen birds- it seems some pups just don't like a cold bird! I always thaw the bird, at least partially- few of my pups will work a rock-hard frozen bird enthusiastically!

I also use a freshly killed bird before I try a wing-clipped live bird.

[jboogie]

My first step with "feathers" has always been a small canvas dummy with a couple of quail or pheasant wings securely attached. I use that for a couple of weeks before trying birds.

I have had limited success using frozen birds- it seems some pups just don't like a cold bird! I always thaw the bird, at least partially- few of my pups will work a rock-hard frozen bird enthusiastically!

I also use a freshly killed bird before I try a wing-clipped live bird.

I was thinking about doing this as well but was wondering if I should glue it on the canvas or tie them down. Just trying to come up with a safe and durable way for the pup. Thanks

[daniel77]

couple of rubber bands works great. Remember not to overdo it.