Teaching Here

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Quailtail
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Teaching Here

Post by Quailtail » Sun Feb 12, 2012 6:32 pm

I have a setter that when I let him out in the fenced in area I have around my kennel the will not come when I say Here. I have a tennis ball that I practice retreiving with. He knows where I keep it, goes and gets it and wants to play keep away. I have not been chasing him. Thought that would make matters worse. He finally went to his kennel with the ball after about 45 minutes.

What is the best method to stop this?

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Sharon
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Re: Teaching Here

Post by Sharon » Sun Feb 12, 2012 6:46 pm

Check cord. Say "come", once and drag him in . I'm not big on treats but some would use a treat.:)
Last edited by Sharon on Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Max&rick
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Re: Teaching Here

Post by Max&rick » Sun Feb 12, 2012 7:07 pm

Use things he likes to help him come feeding time treat time then praise him and do them again the check cord is great also especially with a treat

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DonF
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Re: Teaching Here

Post by DonF » Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:37 pm

Sharon wrote:Check cord. Say "come", once and drag him in . I'm not big on treats but some would use a treat.:)
+1
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Big bloc
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Re: Teaching Here

Post by Big bloc » Mon Feb 13, 2012 4:29 am

This the only time I use treats. 2 toots on whistle with hand motion then treat. Once she get this down pat I will be weaning her off treats slowly maybe every other one until until it is lock in. Right now she is 9 weeks old and comes every time. I still use the cord just in case I need it. Good luck .
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EvanG
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Re: Teaching Here

Post by EvanG » Mon Feb 13, 2012 8:09 am

Sharon wrote:Check cord. Say "come", once and drag him in . I'm not big on treats but some would use a treat.:)
My advice is almost opposite of this. By all means I would use a check cord. But I strongly urge you not to "drag" any dog. Dogs, much like horses, universally resist a steady pull. That means dragging will work against your objectives; making many dogs more resistant to coming, rather than more willing. Instead, I suggest using a tug with each command, and reward instantly with treats. The mechanism is Operant Conditioning.

Treat training is really just “treat conditioning”. Or, in other words, it’s a form of Operant Conditioning: “Conditioning in which the desired behavior, or increasingly closer approximations to it, are followed by a rewarding stimulus.” Webster’s dictionary

I can provide more information about this if you like. How old is your pup?

EvanG
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RayGubernat
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Re: Teaching Here

Post by RayGubernat » Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:09 am

I do this with puppies:
Dog has two long checkcords on it. Since this is done with treats, it is best done when the dog is hungry. One person sits about half the distance of the checkcords from another person. Person one calls dog to them and gives whatever "encouragement' with the checkcord,or clapping of hands, etc., is required. When the dog comes in it gets a pat on the flank, some verbal praise and a treat. Then the other person calls the pup. When the pup arrives at the second person, a pat, some verbal praise and a treat.

When the puppy figures out what is going on... once the treat is given, the one person that the pup is near has to actually restrain the pup until the other person calls. When the other person calls, the pup is usually off like a shot.

Aftere a few sessions, I incorporate a "come in" whistle command. After a few more sessions, I let the pup run around with a checkcord on and just do it myself with either the verbal command or the whistle. Eventually I phase out the treats and just use verbal praise or a pat on the flank.

I see no reason why this will not work as well or better on an older dog. They will probably figure out the routine even faster than a pup, especially when they are hungry. For treats I generally use puppy biscuits. No mess when you keep them in your pocket.

RayG

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Sharon
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Re: Teaching Here

Post by Sharon » Mon Feb 13, 2012 12:08 pm

EvanG wrote:
Sharon wrote:Check cord. Say "come", once and drag him in . I'm not big on treats but some would use a treat.:)
My advice is almost opposite of this. By all means I would use a check cord. But I strongly urge you not to "drag" any dog. Dogs, much like horses, universally resist a steady pull. That means dragging will work against your objectives; making many dogs more resistant to coming, rather than more willing. Instead, I suggest using a tug with each command, and reward instantly with treats. The mechanism is Operant Conditioning.

Treat training is really just “treat conditioning”. Or, in other words, it’s a form of Operant Conditioning: “Conditioning in which the desired behavior, or increasingly closer approximations to it, are followed by a rewarding stimulus.” Webster’s dictionary

I can provide more information about this if you like. How old is your pup?

EvanG


It sounded worse than i do. :) I'm not really that miserable.I bow to your wisdom.

Believe it or not i have a dog who has NEVER not come when called , (including when hunting). Absolute truth. When he was 6-8 weeks I said "come" everytime he was ALREADY coming. I did that for maybe 3 months and he has come ever since.
" We are more than our gender, skin color, class, sexuality or age; we are unlimited potential, and can not be defined by one label." quote A. Bartlett

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EvanG
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Re: Teaching Here

Post by EvanG » Mon Feb 13, 2012 5:15 pm

Sorry Sharon. I wan't bein' mean! :D

EvanG
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― Mother Teresa

There is little reason to expect a dog to be more precise than you are.-- Rex Carr
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Sharon
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Re: Teaching Here

Post by Sharon » Mon Feb 13, 2012 5:49 pm

I never thought you were. :) I never mind being corrected by a person with experience and knowledge Thank you.
" We are more than our gender, skin color, class, sexuality or age; we are unlimited potential, and can not be defined by one label." quote A. Bartlett

Quailtail
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Re: Teaching Here

Post by Quailtail » Wed Feb 15, 2012 9:13 pm

The deal with this dog is that he knows I want him to come to me but finds it more fun to want to play keep away. If I get almost too him he will take off and make a couple of circles around my barn then flop down in plain sight. Chews around on the ball, watching me the entire time.

He wants me to chase him. I want him to come to me. My wants have to be more important than his. Only have this issue when I let him out to clean his kennel. So far, he has retreived nearly every bird that I have killed for him and comes quickly to the whistle. I guess he knows the difference between hunting and just fooling around.

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Sharon
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Re: Teaching Here

Post by Sharon » Wed Feb 15, 2012 10:53 pm

Don't set yourself up for failure. Click on that cc cord as he leaves the kennel. You have to always win.
" We are more than our gender, skin color, class, sexuality or age; we are unlimited potential, and can not be defined by one label." quote A. Bartlett

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gonehuntin'
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Re: Teaching Here

Post by gonehuntin' » Thu Feb 16, 2012 5:52 am

So now it sounds like this is not a pup like everyone thought. De-bolt him. If you do a search on this site, you should find where we've discussed it.
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Steve007
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Re: Teaching Here

Post by Steve007 » Sat Feb 18, 2012 1:11 pm

Once he KNOWS "come" (and it sounds as though he does not at this time) and works perfectly with a check cord, you are within your rights to correct for non-compliance with an e-collar. But not before.

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4dabirds
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Re: Teaching Here

Post by 4dabirds » Sat Feb 18, 2012 3:27 pm

Dogs are motivated to please themselves. Take evans advice . You need to create a dog that wants to come to you because that is the rewardable behavior. If you only call this dog to you when it is time to end its fun it will have no motivation to comply. Make coming to you a great reward for the dog and there will be no need to correct. Keep in mind the dogs motivation do not expect an untrained dog to come to you with the biscuit while it is chasing a pheasent. Take your time building this relationship with the dog it will pay off in the long run. Good luck.

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