Steadying to wing and shot and retrieve
Steadying to wing and shot and retrieve
My ES is coming along pretty well. He is 11 months and has now been on two real hunts. Before we were just working birds. He is pointing well. He has held point for probably 3 minutes. I haven't tested any longer but feel sure he would hold. Once we flush the birds he either wants to chase or go back to hunting another bird. The chase is half hearted. It happens when nobody takes a shot or misses. He hasn't ever caught a bird. It's kind of like he is just wanting to go point it again and doesn't want to loose sight of it so he has to refind it. When the bird is shot he just goes back to hunting. He will see where the bird falls and not want to fetch or even point it. He will step over it on his way to find another bird. I have never zapped him near a bird. I have warned him with the beeper for chasing. How do you recomend I move forward? I woulod like him to retrieve or at least help find the dead bird. I don't want him chasing after flushed birds.
Re: Steadying to wing and shot and retrieve
The dog doesn't know he's to pick up the bird and bring it to you. He thinks his job is done fter the bird is shot.
You need a programme to follow.
http://www.gundogsupply.com/evan-graham ... fetch.html
You need a programme to follow.
http://www.gundogsupply.com/evan-graham ... fetch.html
Last edited by Sharon on Thu Dec 13, 2012 7:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Steadying to wing and shot and retrieve
He is a puppy and needs to be treated as such. Very few dogs will retrieve something that they aren't allowed to chase at such a young age. Too much pressure to reduce "chase" could have negative effects on many aspects.
I let most dogs bump and Chase until they are around 2, some older some younger. It just depends on maturity and drive. It's hard to give advice over the Internet but does the dog have any interest in retrieving objects that you throw?
I let most dogs bump and Chase until they are around 2, some older some younger. It just depends on maturity and drive. It's hard to give advice over the Internet but does the dog have any interest in retrieving objects that you throw?
Re: Steadying to wing and shot and retrieve
I would not worry about stopping the chase that young. I let mine get through 2 hunting season before I start stop the chase.
Now I do expect a dog that age to stand on point for as long as it take me to walk out front and flush the birds.
If you are having a problem, a Check Cord is always a good option. You can let them drag a shorter CC, and it will give you some control at the flush and shot.
Now I do expect a dog that age to stand on point for as long as it take me to walk out front and flush the birds.
If you are having a problem, a Check Cord is always a good option. You can let them drag a shorter CC, and it will give you some control at the flush and shot.
Steve
Re: Steadying to wing and shot and retrieve
I agree. Have you done any retrieve training with the dog or did you hope/expect the dog to retrieve naturally ?Sharon wrote:The dog doesn't know he's to pick up the bird and bring it to you. he thinks his job is done sfter the bird id shot.
Some do and some don't where retrieving naturally is concerned.
Bill T.
The older I get, the better I was !
Re: Steadying to wing and shot and retrieve
As far as retrieving in the yard goes, he is just OK. He understands the concepts but doesn't understand the goal. If you throw something to fetch he will run to the object and turn around and run back. Sometimes with the object. Sometimes not. I was just surprised he would pass up a downed bird. He has very good prey drive.
Re: Steadying to wing and shot and retrieve
Wait until the next off season and then teach the dog to retrieve. Don't force the issue now on shot birds.
In the spring get a puppy bumper so that the dog has something smaller to retrieve and make the fetch sessions fun. Remember, the dog is learning a new process. You might even bribe the dog with a treat so that fetching becomes a goal of his. Then move on to other objects -- a glove, wadded up paper, etc. until the dog knows that fetch means "bring that to me" no matter what it is.
Then introduce a frozen quail. This will take time because the dog will want to sniff and investigate the quail for a while. Next introduce a dead non-frozen quail, the sniffing and investigating will return for a while but that's OK, and so forth. Be patient and encourage the dog every step of the way.
I have not had to use any force other than a vocal reprimand using this building-block method.
My 18 month old brittany retrieves with enthusiasm because she learned that it is fun, and no force was necessary. A lot of patience was necessary though.
Good luck.
In the spring get a puppy bumper so that the dog has something smaller to retrieve and make the fetch sessions fun. Remember, the dog is learning a new process. You might even bribe the dog with a treat so that fetching becomes a goal of his. Then move on to other objects -- a glove, wadded up paper, etc. until the dog knows that fetch means "bring that to me" no matter what it is.
Then introduce a frozen quail. This will take time because the dog will want to sniff and investigate the quail for a while. Next introduce a dead non-frozen quail, the sniffing and investigating will return for a while but that's OK, and so forth. Be patient and encourage the dog every step of the way.
I have not had to use any force other than a vocal reprimand using this building-block method.
My 18 month old brittany retrieves with enthusiasm because she learned that it is fun, and no force was necessary. A lot of patience was necessary though.
Good luck.
Re: Steadying to wing and shot and retrieve
Getting the dog steady to wing and shot is a building block process too.
The first step is lots of whoa training until the dog knows that whoa means stop and don't move until the boss says so.
Once the dog is completely whoa broke it can then go back to work with birds. It will point, and you must give the whoa command. The dog will most likely break to either catch the bird (that is why I like bird baskets, they prevent the dog catching the bird) or it may break on the flush and start the chase. If you have the check cord on the dog you can stop the dog, pick it up and place it back on the spot where you gave the whoa command and whoa it again and keep it there for a minute to let it understand what you wanted it to do. You will repeat this step in the process a lot, but eventually the dog will understand that you don't want it to vacate the spot of the whoa until you say it can move. Then add the blank pistol to the mix. The sound may make the dog want to chase (it may think of the bang as permission to move), but you still have the check cord to stop the dog and get it back to the whoa spot.
When I remove the check cord I will usually use a "belly band" for a while. I eventually place an electronic collar on the dog. At some point the dog will note that the check cord or belly band is gone and it may chase a flushed bird. Don't shoot a bird the dog chases at this point or ever from now on. Let the dog get to full speed chasing the flying bird and hit the stimulation button for the collar. The dog will go back to being steady and will give up chasing for good after one or perhaps a few stimulation experiences. Only stimulate the dog when it is in full chase. That way the dog will think of the chase as unpleasant and not worth it, but it will still love to point, love staying steady to wing and shot and it will love to fetch for you.
Remember, be patient. It takes time, but the thrill of your dog being steady to wing and shot is really worth all the time spent. Good luck.
The first step is lots of whoa training until the dog knows that whoa means stop and don't move until the boss says so.
Once the dog is completely whoa broke it can then go back to work with birds. It will point, and you must give the whoa command. The dog will most likely break to either catch the bird (that is why I like bird baskets, they prevent the dog catching the bird) or it may break on the flush and start the chase. If you have the check cord on the dog you can stop the dog, pick it up and place it back on the spot where you gave the whoa command and whoa it again and keep it there for a minute to let it understand what you wanted it to do. You will repeat this step in the process a lot, but eventually the dog will understand that you don't want it to vacate the spot of the whoa until you say it can move. Then add the blank pistol to the mix. The sound may make the dog want to chase (it may think of the bang as permission to move), but you still have the check cord to stop the dog and get it back to the whoa spot.
When I remove the check cord I will usually use a "belly band" for a while. I eventually place an electronic collar on the dog. At some point the dog will note that the check cord or belly band is gone and it may chase a flushed bird. Don't shoot a bird the dog chases at this point or ever from now on. Let the dog get to full speed chasing the flying bird and hit the stimulation button for the collar. The dog will go back to being steady and will give up chasing for good after one or perhaps a few stimulation experiences. Only stimulate the dog when it is in full chase. That way the dog will think of the chase as unpleasant and not worth it, but it will still love to point, love staying steady to wing and shot and it will love to fetch for you.
Remember, be patient. It takes time, but the thrill of your dog being steady to wing and shot is really worth all the time spent. Good luck.
Re: Steadying to wing and shot and retrieve
SmokinJoe is right, you need more whoa. The dog doesnt understand what is being asked of him because he hasnt been taught. You need to get the dog steady on whoa before anything else. He is young though and you have recieved good info about letting the dog go for a bit and put some age on him.
Chris E. Kroll
CEK Kennels
http://www.cekkennels.com
785-288-0461
Governments govern best when governments governs least
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CEK Kennels
http://www.cekkennels.com
785-288-0461
Governments govern best when governments governs least
-Thomas Paine