Training a Brittany

BrockTheBritt · Post by **BrockTheBritt** » Sat Jan 05, 2013 1:08 am

I have a 7mo old Brittany and am looking for some training tips, he has "come" down. Trying to work on who and heel but needing advice. Any is welcome

Post by **Sharon** » Sat Jan 05, 2013 11:09 am

Welcome to the forum.
You need a plan.
one suggestion:
"Perfect Start , Perfect Finish "..... http://www.gundogsupply.com/pestpefisetd1.html

DonF · Post by **DonF** » Sat Jan 05, 2013 12:26 pm

The only thing two trainer's will agree on is what the third is doing wrong. After you decide which is the best for you, stick to it until your finished. Don't get an idea from here and there, learn the method you have first! I've only seen one of the perfect start video's and found thing that didn't work for me but, I've never seen the series! That probably make's a big difference. I borrowed a DVD from Gertie put out by Sherri Ebert on using the barrel for whoa training. That was a super video, one of the best I've ever seen at explaining how to. I don't use the barrel but it's clear in my mind now how to do it should I try it. perfect Start and the video's put out by the smith's get a whole lot of praise all over. But every system is going to be nothing more than one person's idea of the right method. The only thing wrong with these video's is the cost, they are not inexpensive by a long shot.

Francois P vd Walt · Post by **Francois P vd Walt** » Sat Jan 05, 2013 10:46 pm

Sharon wrote:Welcome to the forum.
You need a plan.
one suggestion:
"Perfect Start , Perfect Finish "..... http://www.gundogsupply.com/pestpefisetd1.html

+1 They are a must to get if you want a well trained dog

4dabirds · Post by **4dabirds** » Sun Jan 06, 2013 8:24 am

http://ebookbrowse.com/the-culture-clas ... -d98932404 Read this book it will help you decipher the differences between plans as they pertain to canine behavior. I am a fan of the Hickox methodology . The perfect start video series boasts that you do not need place boards or barrels to train your dog. While this may be true, the barrel, board method as well as the table is based on the premise that dogs do not generalize well. This means that they do not understand commands they have learned as the cues given and the place changes. They are there to make the training process easier for the dog. When the dog is understanding what is being expected it approaches training sessions with a much better attitude. The happier the dog the more you will achieve, not to mention the factor of style in a dog that is happy to perform. http://www.georgehickox.com/ Good luck with the dog!

whoadog · Post by **whoadog** » Sun Jan 06, 2013 8:44 am

No matter the plan, certain things are the same. First, control starts close and extends out as you train. In other words, if you can't control your dog on a leash, there is no way you can control it at 100 yards. Second, you must train on a regular basis (I believe that means at least five days a week). Then, use short training sessions, at 7 months no more than 10 minutes per session. Finally, the trainer must remain consistent. By consistent, I mean not only in commands but all areas of the training relationship.

On to heel: Heel is easily trained as long as you understand the difference in human pschology versus dog pyschology. As humans we are goal oriented when we travel. We leave the house for a walk with the intention of going one direction a specified distance, changing direction a time or two and returning home. Dogs very quickly pick up on this, (literally in a few steps). As humans, we are also sometimes confused about what we should do when we are training our dogs and are thus indecisive. Dogs immediately pick up on this. Dogs are, above all, pack animals and, as such, are either leaders or followers. There is no gray area for them. So, when you pick up the leash and are unsure of what to do your dog says ,"Well, let's go this way at this pace!" Teaching heel becomes simple when you understand what is happening. Put your dog on the leash and keep just a little slack in it. Stand still for just a moment. As your dog starts to move away from you, give the leash a sharp snap, give the "heel" command, and step off smartly (decisively, quickly, whatever word you want) in the opposite direction. As your dog passes you, usually in a step or two, pivot away from the dog on the ball of your foot that is next to him and say, "no, heel". Repeat the process until you have the dog's attention. Again, you will only take a step or two in one direction before you change directions. As he begins to turn his head and pay attention to you, you can lengthen the distance you travel in a single direction. Whenever his attentions wanders, change directions sharply to bring his focus back. You should see an almost immediate change in his attitude at heel, literally one lesson. As he improves at heel you can add figure 8s and circle the dog as well.

Once he is heeling obediently, I introduce whoa at heel. While he is at heel, stop frequently while giving the whoa command. It is important to remember that when you begin to walk again that you repeat the "heel command". So, it goes, heel, whoa, heel, whoa, heel and so on. After a session or two of that, as you whoa your dog you can pivot around in front of him to face him. Start giving your hand signal at this point. After a session or two of that, start to back away from your dog. If he moves put him back on his place while repeating the whoa command. I often use a "whoa board" at this point. Dogs are very place sensitive and understand what you want very quickly when they have something under their feet as a reference point. I use a carpet remnant that is about 18" x24". Throw it down in the yard somewhere and lead him onto it. Whoa him as he makes good contact with his feet. Step away from him. If he moves put him back on the spot. After a few sessions, he should understand that whoa means stop and stand in one spot no matter what you are doing. Once I reach that point with a dog, I use a check cord and a "whoa post". The post is anything solid in my yard from a tree to a tie-out stake. Timing is crucial. With the dog on the check cord and the cord positioned in a way you can stop him with the post, call him to you. As the slack is taken out of the cord, give the whoa command and stop him at a distance from you. Normally, the dog learns quite quickly that he needs to stop and stay.

Bryce · Post by **Bryce** » Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:29 pm

The best advise I feel I can give you is to follow Dave Walker's method. He has a book and multiple videos.

I've seen people be successful with a number of training methods, but I feel he has it right. You can fool around with all the barrels, post, whoa boards, and blah blah blah... But it's amazing what Dave can do with a checkcord and e-collar alone and never use a thing more in his 35+ years in the breed. He is hands down, the best bird dog trainer that I know and I recommend his method to anyone. Another good one that actually stems from Dave Walker and West's method is Maurice Lindley and though I have never trained with him, Dave has always spoken highly of him. He has a book out that I know of.

AmericanBrittGuy · Post by **AmericanBrittGuy** » Tue Jan 15, 2013 9:20 pm

Whoadog has given you a good start. I, personally, believe in the yardwork, socialization focus on a pup. If you cannot get him to 'here', 'whoa', or 'heel' in the yard, bird work (even in launchers) will be frustrating. Make it short, fun, and frequent. Did I say have fun?

Saddle · Post by **Saddle** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 5:42 pm

I would put the dog on birds before you do a ton on "controlling" with the pup.

dougroch · Post by **dougroch** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 10:19 pm

My britt is almost 14 mos old. Brought him home a year ago this coming Saturday so I only have a few more months experience than you. I am by no means an expert on dog training but here is my 2 cents.I easily spent more on training books, videos, etc than I did to actually buy the dog. The best bit of advice I could give you is to view any training aid as simply a guide and not an instruction manual like you would get with a kids toy or some ready to assemble furniture. All of what I am about to say was learned by trial and error on my part. When a book says your dog should be doing this and this by so and so age I would ignore it, each dog learns at different speeds as long as you are making progress you are doing fine. Also don't be afraid to tweak the training techniques offered to your dog as again each dog is different in how it learns. Lastly as someone else mentioned go easy on the control of the dog for his first season, let his instincts develop. I spent alot of time with my pup late last summer and early fall working on control in anticipation of the coming bird season. What I got the first few hunts was a boot licking dog until I backed way off on the control. Now he is finding birds better than any year old pup any of my hunting buddies have ever had and is doing things I thought only training would teach him, i.e. he is steady to flush and is pseudo quartering, both of which I was waiting for his second season to even introduce.

royta · Post by **royta** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 8:19 pm

Interesting thread. My first bird dog and first dog in over 20 years, a Brittany, will be born the end of January. I'm just trying to learn where to start. Dog will be a family and hunting companion. I'm definitely getting the book, The Brittany: Amateurs Training With Professionals, and am still deciding on a video series. Leaning towards Perfect Start Perfect Finish. I was planning on control in preparation for Fall/Winter 2013 bird hunting, but am now unsure what to think, or what I can expect.

Hoosierdaddy · Post by **Hoosierdaddy** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:27 am

I would get the book for starters.It is a well written book that describes training from several prospectives.With a new pup you will have your hands full with just crate and potty training.Then you move on to the biting,chewing and destroying stuff.I think that every pup needs to know the rules of the house from day one,and that takes patience and repitition.Puppies will learn quickly what to do if you are consistant.It sounds easy but it is not.Brittanys need lots of exercise,both physical and mental.I work with my pups 3 times a week on basic stuff,walking on the leash,or checkcord and take them for romps in the feild off leash 2-3 times a week.At 5 months old they know when i pick up the the leash its fun time.

I have two of these rascals to deal with at the same time,and they are loving,bright and attentive pups.They think the sun rises and sets on my command. But if i let them loose in my house un-attended they would destroy it in a couple hours.LOL

royta · Post by **royta** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 6:33 pm

Thanks Hoosierdaddy.

Regarding the puppies' leash time, have you been teaching heel, come, and whoa, or have you just been running around with them?

I've been reading the following info: http://www.brittanysonline.com/crate.html and http://www.thecheckcord.com/. I've also read that I want to start out right away with picking the puppy up and holding it close, and then letting it go after it quits squirming around. This starts it off right away knowing that I'm in charge. The crate and potty training starts first day home too.

Thanks for the help and info.

royta · Post by **royta** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 6:34 pm

I've also been reading http://brittanys.com/Brittany_training.htm#8weeksup, but I couldn't put it in the previous post because I was limited to only two links.

Maurice · Post by **Maurice** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 7:06 pm

Everything you do will be training when you interact with your young pup, good or bad.. I would be real careful about to much drill type training... If you want a bird dog, expose it to the right things and stay out of the way for awhile.. The pup will let you know when to step in and get serious.. It is more about developing the skills that a pup is born with imo.

Mo

royta · Post by **royta** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 8:59 am

Maurice wrote:I would be real careful about to much drill type training... If you want a bird dog, expose it to the right things and stay out of the way for awhile.. The pup will let you know when to step in and get serious..

Mo

Thanks for the info. A few quick questions though. What drills are you referring to? What are the right things to expose the pup to?

Now if only I can tell when the pup is ready to get serious. I'm looking forward to learning.

Hoosierdaddy · Post by **Hoosierdaddy** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:28 am

When i talk about leash training it is nothing more than teaching the dogs that when on leash i have control.No heeling drills,or whoa drills they are too young.Simply put right now i just work on them not trying to pull my shoulder out of joint.Walking with me while on leash.Pups need to have more fun at this age than serious training.My dogs come charging back to me like Rhinos when i blow a whistle,i dont really know why,but they responded to a whistle right off the bat.Have fun.Dont push to hard.Let them run and smell,roll in dung,chase tweety birds.Thats what pups do.When out in the feild,keep quiet,let the dog get out of sight and watch him come find you. He will come looking for you,its a fun game for you and the dog.

royta · Post by **royta** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 7:16 am

Hoosierdaddy wrote:When i talk about leash training it is nothing more than teaching the dogs that when on leash i have control. No heeling drills,or whoa drills they are too young. Simply put right now i just work on them not trying to pull my shoulder out of joint.

Would a pinch collar help with this, or are your pups too young?

It turns out my breeders puppies were born Saturday night / Sunday morning. He has kids and the puppies get lots of interaction. I'm anticipating a March 16 pick up date and I know my 13, 10, and 9 year old kids will be all over her. I'm eager to play too.

whoadog · Post by **whoadog** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 8:19 am

Pinch collars are for big, strong, hard-headed dogs that are difficult to control physically. I am to the point in my dog training that I rarely even use a choke chain with a dog. Take the alpha role (if you don't know what that means then find out before you start training) and make the dog follow. Re-read my ealier post in this thread and heel is quite simple to teach, especially to a young dog that readily accepts your position of pack leader.

Gun Dog Forum