get dog to load up in suv

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magspa
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get dog to load up in suv

Post by magspa » Thu Mar 21, 2013 6:40 am

finally got a box for my xterra, at the wifes request. Went with the easyloader which a really like, fits perfect and mounted two bins on top for ammo, collars, etc. But my younger GSP wont jump in to load up. The other dog hops right in and lays down. I even tried treats but she just sits there and gets nervous. She has always been hesitant to load up even before i got the kennel. Not sure how to go about training her for this, i was expecting the treats to get her comfortable. Any tips would be greatly appreciated..thanks

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bruns333
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Re: get dog to load up in suv

Post by bruns333 » Thu Mar 21, 2013 7:52 am

Sounds like a dog that gets carsick. Does it drool and seemed stressed before, during, and one you get there? May get better with lots of fun outings in the new ride. Don't pressure the dog or get frustrated. Try getting it to put it's paws on the bumper as a first step maybe with a treat to help. Praise and reward and work from there. Give a nice command like load when you are doing it and maybe in the future it will jump in with just the command.

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snips
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Re: get dog to load up in suv

Post by snips » Thu Mar 21, 2013 8:55 am

Toss a dead bird in there.
brenda

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DonF
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Re: get dog to load up in suv

Post by DonF » Thu Mar 21, 2013 9:06 am

if the dog rode in the car before with no trouble then it's not car sickness. Quit throwing treat's, you are begging. Put the crate on the ground and teach her to get in on command. get a hold of her collar, tell her kennel and throw her in the crate. won't take long and she'll do it right. Now take her to the tailgate of the car, get a hold of her collar and tell her to load up. Have the collar in hand and soon as you give the command throw her in and love her up. Unless your dog get's car sick, she's BSing you.
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MNspanielguy
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Re: get dog to load up in suv

Post by MNspanielguy » Thu Mar 21, 2013 9:16 am

Is the car turned off? My dog always loaded up with no problems until he took a big hit of exhaust right in the face. Now if he sees that big cloud of winter exhaust he gets kind of shy about getting in. If I shut the car off he jumps right in.

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deseeker
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Re: get dog to load up in suv

Post by deseeker » Thu Mar 21, 2013 11:00 am

I agree with starting with the kennel on the ground. After the dog is comfortable with that, back your vehicle in a ditch where the dog doesn't have as far up to jump. After it is comfortable there, move the vehicle so it has to jump a little higher---keep doing that until it has to jump the full height. It has worked for me on unsure dogs :D

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Re: get dog to load up in suv

Post by Cicada » Thu Mar 21, 2013 11:12 am

deseeker wrote:I agree with starting with the kennel on the ground. After the dog is comfortable with that, back your vehicle in a ditch where the dog doesn't have as far up to jump. After it is comfortable there, move the vehicle so it has to jump a little higher---keep doing that until it has to jump the full height. It has worked for me on unsure dogs :D
This is basically what I did but I started with the side door and and then a block of wood at the back. I also used treats but I can see how that is not a good thing and have now started to ween him off. Also I would leave the vehicle open to let him get in on his own accord this was just for a few days to let him get his confidence.

Grant

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klewis
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Re: get dog to load up in suv

Post by klewis » Thu Mar 21, 2013 12:49 pm

DonF wrote:if the dog rode in the car before with no trouble then it's not car sickness. Quit throwing treat's, you are begging. Put the crate on the ground and teach her to get in on command. get a hold of her collar, tell her kennel and throw her in the crate. won't take long and she'll do it right. Now take her to the tailgate of the car, get a hold of her collar and tell her to load up. Have the collar in hand and soon as you give the command throw her in and love her up. Unless your dog get's car sick, she's BSing you.
don f this the second post by you i have read in the last 15 min. i like your thinking more all the time.

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magspa
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Re: get dog to load up in suv

Post by magspa » Thu Mar 21, 2013 2:43 pm

thanks for all the replies. She does get car sick sometimes..will vomit small amounts. I usually take them on empty stomachs, unless we'll be hunting all day. Then i feed them about an hour before we take off while i get my stuff ready. I try not to use treats too much, but i have had success using them for basic things like this, then once the behavior becomes habitual i stop with the treats, or just every once and a while. I will try the method on the ground with the leash then work our way up into the back of suv. Pinch collar (leather one from higgins) or no pinch collar?

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DonF
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Re: get dog to load up in suv

Post by DonF » Fri Mar 22, 2013 11:52 am

I had two really nice pinch collar's from Dunn's years ago. Used them maybe a year and quit. Putting a pinch collar on a dog seem's to me that it means the dog must be hurt to some degree for it to learn. I don't buy that any more other than trash breaking and force breaking. I use a chain choker for heeling, don't yank the dog, and for the whoa post I use two reg collars, both on the neck.
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Re: get dog to load up in suv

Post by DoubleBarrel GunDogs » Wed Mar 27, 2013 5:58 am

I don't think you really have a good concept of treat training. Also, forcing the dog in the kennel is not a very good idea unless you want the dog to fear you. Because that's the only way that approach is going to end.

First get your hands on a clicker. They can be found online and pet stores. Base load your dog with the clicker, giving him one treat per click. Do this 10-15 times for as many sessions as you need. When the dog expects the treat when he hears the click you'll know that he has paired the two. He has made the association that the click = reward. (Pavlov's theory)
Don't overfeed him. In fact don't feed him at all, unless its by hand and with the clicker for a few days. It makes little difference if you use dog food or treats for this, as long as he takes them by hand.

Start with your dog in yard work with a check cord and his kennel. Provide him with as little distraction as possible.
Coax him into the kennel with the treats or dog food. Every small step is rewarded with a click followed by a treat. Keep the sessions short and only reward him for effort. Looking at the kennel, sniffing the kennel putting his nose in, putting one paw in... You get the picture. These are all progressive efforts on his part. Only begin to expect perfection after he has gone in a couple of times, and say nothing until this behavior has occurred. That's right no forcing, no begging and no free lunch. He already knows how to go in the kennel. Only now he's going in for a reward, and he's earning it.
Once he is going in the kennel consistently begin to introduce your cue kennel, crate whatever you want to use. As long as you're consistent and only say it once and only reward after compliance.
Next generalize the behavior. Take a step or two away from the kennel, a step more and so on. When he has the hang of this game, challenge him one challenge at a time. Move the kennel a 1/4 turn. Try standing on the right side of him instead of the left.
When these behaviors are satisfactory set your kennel behind the vehicle. Practice what he already knows. Next set the kennel inside your vehicle. If he doesn't get it, don't be surprised. Dogs are very poor with concepts, but they are very place oriented. Incidentally what you are doing now is contrary to what he's already learned. Previous to this you may have treated him like an invalid or perhaps begged him to get in the kennel. Worst case, you shoved him in as you yelled KENNEL! Maybe he even got a swat on the rear end as he went in. Don't get discouraged or angry. If you do, end the session. End all of your training sessions on a positive note.
People often say that treat training doesn't work because the dog gets dependant on the treats. Don't listen, because they don't understand how it works. Click and treat is a great way to bridge the communication gap. It is also a great way to teach a behavior before beginning avoidance training.

I hope this helps.

Nate

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