Check Cord Length

[NEhomer]

My pup's still a baby yet but I was looking over check cords on ebay and was wondering what considerations there are regarding length. I saw them at 10,20,30 and 40ft. Which is ideal in your experience or is it more prone to the breed, age and conditions?

[RoostersMom]

Get one from Permatack and you won't need another for years. I think they are 30 footers.

[rinker]

I like 20 feet.

[cmc274]

About 12-14' is good, IMO hard to control a dog on anything longer than that.

[DonF]

my experience with then started with Delmar Smith. He claimed that 20" was about all you could handle well. In my experience, when I trained everyday, I could handle 25" max. Using it as he did, you had to keep the cord off the ground, 30" cord start's getting to where you can't do that, I have never been able to handle a 30" cord. A check cord with a belly in it or dragging on the ground throw's off timing when using it to teach the dog. if your working on turning and letting the cord drag, you give the command and then have to get the belly out of the cord before you can enforce the command. A limp 30" cord will have a belly that will make the smap knot less effective. When trying to bump with it, you risk slapping the dog in the face rather than bumping it under the chin. Material was important too. Tight wound hard core 3/8 to 1/2" nylon. Rope like that get's stiffer with use and is really hard to get caught up in brush, just slide through. For me a part of the cord that is very important is the way the snap is attached. It's tied on with a bowline for a reason. That would be whoa training. In his original method that knot was used to correct the dog if it moved when whoaed, very effective and mostly the only way I've ever done it. Couldn't get the barrel down and recently tried the heel whoa and don't really care for it much. On a check cord if the dog doesn't stop right now, you bump it under the chin, from the length of the cord away.

One size fit's all doesn't work for me with check cords. i like a 10' piece of cotton cloth's line to start a young pup. Then in a few week's go to a 15' piece of the same then to a 3/8" 20'. Buy the time you get to 20', the pup won't be slowed at all by the heavier cord.

[NEhomer]

Well thanks so much everyone. I was advised to put a short lead on him to get him used to it as a puppy. He's just 8 1/2 weeks right now. When would you guys advise getting him used to dragging a short cord?

[DonF]

Well thanks so much everyone. I was advised to put a short lead on him to get him used to it as a puppy. He's just 8 1/2 weeks right now. When would you guys advise getting him used to dragging a short cord?

Right now I would have him on a 10' piece of cloth's line. Whip the ends with string. Somewhere around 12 weeks I'd go to a 15' cord and about 20 wks it should be able to pull a 20' 3/8" cord fine.

[Yuma.Az.Hunter]

Sorry if this is a dumb question then guys, but what's the dif if u just use a rope? And what exactly is the point of a check cord I thought it was just to let the dog roam around.

[RoostersMom]

I like a 30ft cord to teach quartering in the field and to reinforce recall commands. I let my dog drag it most of the time while they're out in the field.

[marysburg]

+1. It's a smooth way to be able to influence what the young pup is doing, and you never have to chase down a loose pup that you may have trouble catching.

[Big bloc]

I like the longer ones 30ft. I use it in wooded ares. I teach the command STOP. As the dog goes around a tree it is easier to have the rope around the tree like a lever action. That,s when I give the command to STOP. It it less strain on you holding the rope. Don't forget leather gloves. You'll only do it once. Good luck

[Yuma.Az.Hunter]

So it's just used as a long leash basically?

[Neil]

So it's just used as a long leash basically?

Although I went to the Buddy Stick years ago and no loner have need for a check cord; it is much more than a long leash. It must be heavy and stiff enough to not readily hang up in shrubs, trees and such, and to snap under the chin for whoa training, thick enough to firmly grasp to stop the dog without pealing hide, yet supple enough to coil up and hang from belt loop or saddle. When I used them I looked long and hard in old hardware stores for one that felt just right.

I was moving some dog training equipment the other day, and ran across a couple that were more than 30 years old, felt like shaking the hand of an old friend. As I recall, about 22' long and 7/16" of nylon/cotton weave. When I used them (pre adjustable e-collar days), they were vitally important to be just right.

If you are going to use one, get the right one and learn to use it.

P.S. I would buy whatever Rick Smith is selling, I don't recall the web site, but if Rick sells it, it will work, and is a good value. Pick up the Command Lead and other training aids while there, all good stuff.

[AZ Brittany Guy]

Sorry if this is a dumb question then guys, but what's the dif if u just use a rope? And what exactly is the point of a check cord I thought it was just to let the dog roam around.

It's a good question since many new trainers ask it. When I see a hammer I see "just a hammer". When a carpenter sees a hammer he is looking for the right weight, grip, balance etc.etc. He determines it from experience with building many houses and other stuff. The more you train, the more you will come to appreciate the check cord. A lot of experienced trainers will tell you it is the most important tool you will have.

[Yuma.Az.Hunter]

Sorry if this is a dumb question then guys, but what's the dif if u just use a rope? And what exactly is the point of a check cord I thought it was just to let the dog roam around.

It's a good question since many new trainers ask it. When I see a hammer I see "just a hammer". When a carpenter sees a hammer he is looking for the right weight, grip, balance etc.etc. He determines it from experience with building many houses and other stuff. The more you train, the more you will come to appreciate the check cord. A lot of experienced trainers will tell you it is the most important tool you will have.

Haha well unfortunately I know hammers much better. :/ can someone give me an idea, I want to go buy some rope for this purpose and there's a bunch of hardware stores here. What length thickness etc should I look for.

[DonF]

Sorry if this is a dumb question then guys, but what's the dif if u just use a rope? And what exactly is the point of a check cord I thought it was just to let the dog roam around.

It's a good question since many new trainers ask it. When I see a hammer I see "just a hammer". When a carpenter sees a hammer he is looking for the right weight, grip, balance etc.etc. He determines it from experience with building many houses and other stuff. The more you train, the more you will come to appreciate the check cord. A lot of experienced trainers will tell you it is the most important tool you will have.

Haha well unfortunately I know hammers much better. :/ can someone give me an idea, I want to go buy some rope for this purpose and there's a bunch of hardware stores here. What length thickness etc should I look for.

I've never found good CC rope in a hardware store. I always found it in farm store's. Keep in mind that even though hardware store may be tight woven nylon, it's is normally to soft a core and much to limber. On top of that, that rope being drug through dirt and mud doesn't get any stiffer. The core needs to be able to suck up mud, dirt and water.
Couple key point's on a check core, it can't be to long or to soft. You can't control a cord like that. Try this, it's what I do. Get a 30' piece of cord and cut 5' off it to make a leash with. I use the original Delmar Smith method of the whoa post and I don't handle two check cord's well. So I put the 25' one on the dog to the post and use the 5' one as a leash but it has that important bowline knot in it. I found out years ago that I could handle a 25' CC. Trained a lot back then and today not near as much. Today I can no longer handle the 25' cord, mine are 20' again.

[Neil]

Go here:

http://www.huntsmith.com/product.php?id=10

Buy it.

[ezzy333]

I would recommend Gun Dog Supply. They sell quality products at a reasonable cost. I have two twenty footers that are ten to fifteen years old that you can't tell they have been used except they are a little dirty.

Ezzy

[Neil]

I would recommend Gun Dog Supply. They sell quality products at a reasonable cost. I have two twenty footers that are ten to fifteen years old that you can't tell they have been used except they are a little dirty.

Ezzy

Of course we should support our sponsor.

[mnaj_springer]

I would recommend Gun Dog Supply. They sell quality products at a reasonable cost. I have two twenty footers that are ten to fifteen years old that you can't tell they have been used except they are a little dirty.

Ezzy

Of course we should support our sponsor.

I would also recommend Gun Dog Supply, but they don't sponsor me. I just like their service, products, and costs.

[polmaise]

My pup's still a baby yet but I was looking over check cords on ebay and was wondering what considerations there are regarding length. I saw them at 10,20,30 and 40ft. Which is ideal in your experience or is it more prone to the breed, age and conditions?

Depends what and how you use it?
Other factors are ....Your Height , Your dogs height. That's why they make them different sizes.
If your pup is still a baby , you don't need one just yet .

[AZ Brittany Guy]

If you are new to check cords you may want to spend some time learning how to use them. I see many newbies get tangled with their dogs like spaghetti. Ronnie and Rick Smith have a pretty good video on how to use them.

[Meller]

Just remember even if you get a 30ft cord you don't need to use all of it , use what is convenient for you, and remember timing is what is important, and length of cord can vary between who is handling the check cord so timing of the correction is correct; and this can only be accomplished with lots of practice and patience, but more important than length of cord.

[oldbeek]

Someone from Arizona. I think Arlett Hennesy said to buy a cheap Harbor Freight 1/4 inch air hose. Cut the ends off and install a snap. I hooked the snap on by doubling the hose over and used tie wire . Fairly stiff, has a knot below the snap to rap the dogs chin and slips through the brush. Easy to whip. 25 foot.

[bagofdonuts]

Someone from Arizona. I think Arlett Hennesy said to buy a cheap Harbor Freight 1/4 inch air hose. Cut the ends off and install a snap. I hooked the snap on by doubling the hose over and used tie wire . Fairly stiff, has a knot below the snap to rap the dogs chin and slips through the brush. Easy to whip. 25 foot.

i like it. i've used a short rubber tarp strap (cheap at any truck stop) to give cushion to the check cord. Just bend the metal hooks closed to attach snap to one end, d-ring to the other attach it dogs collar and to check cord and it works really good for turning the dog (bending drills) without jerking the pups head off when he hits the end. Take it off when you want to snap pup around with more force. now you have a variable stimulation check cord with a hand held controller.

also, the softer the cord the more briars it picks up while being dragged all over ___. Let one covered in briars slip through you hand with a hard charging dog on one end and you'll buy the expensive check cord.

[AZ Brittany Guy]

Someone from Arizona. I think Arlett Hennesy said to buy a cheap Harbor Freight 1/4 inch air hose. Cut the ends off and install a snap. I hooked the snap on by doubling the hose over and used tie wire . Fairly stiff, has a knot below the snap to rap the dogs chin and slips through the brush. Easy to whip. 25 foot.

i like it. i've used a short rubber tarp strap (cheap at any truck stop) to give cushion to the check cord. Just bend the metal hooks closed to attach snap to one end, d-ring to the other attach it dogs collar and to check cord and it works really good for turning the dog (bending drills) without jerking the pups head off when he hits the end. Take it off when you want to snap pup around with more force. now you have a variable stimulation check cord with a hand held controller.

also, the softer the cord the more briars it picks up while being dragged all over ___. Let one covered in briars slip through you hand with a hard charging dog on one end and you'll buy the expensive check cord.

I use it for certain situations but find it unwheeldey when I try to store it away. Bill Gibbons suggested I try it about four years ago and it does work pretty well.

[Mills51]

I had a 8 foot really light cord that I had my pup dragging around when he was 10 weeks old just to get him acquainted with a check cord, bought for a quarter at a garage sale. I then bought a 30 foot check cord at Gundogsupply and a 50 foot with an extra swivel. I liked having the 50 footer to give my pup some freedom but still being able to get a hold of him if necessary. Also, when in parks that require being on a leash, he still had freedom but was still on a leash. As he got older I turned the 50 footer into two check cords.