relocating problem
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relocating problem
my setter finds and points grouse fine but hear in michigan grouse run like crazy there lies the problem, when the bird takes off she try to relocate but puts the bird up to many times she's not busting the birds she try to follow but apperantly crouds the birds , how would be some ways I can train for this. I want her to relocate because the birds will run off from under her points
Re: relocating problem
OK, I'm gonna take a stab at this since no one else has...full disclosure, I'm not a grouse hunter and my dogs have only had to handle running pheasants and quail in competition situations.
It sounds like your dog self-relocates. So maybe try steadying her up to where she only relocates on command. IME dogs tend to be more careful when the handler is close by as opposed to when the handler more distant and excitedly thrashing thru the cover to get to the dog. And maybe if you were closer when the bird goes yp, you'd have a better chance at a shot.
It sounds like your dog self-relocates. So maybe try steadying her up to where she only relocates on command. IME dogs tend to be more careful when the handler is close by as opposed to when the handler more distant and excitedly thrashing thru the cover to get to the dog. And maybe if you were closer when the bird goes yp, you'd have a better chance at a shot.
Re: relocating problem
I have no experience whatsoever of ruffed grouse , we don't have them here. They seem to behave very like the wild bred pheasants I often hunted in woodlands though , they were infamous for running from points ! I allowed my dogs to follow up on them by tracking their footscent through the cover while I controlled how fast and how far ahead of me the dog got to go.
If the bird did not get up to fly within about 50 yards then I allowed/encouraged the dog to resume the search by hunting for air scent.
This was not the perfect solution to the problem but it did get me a few more shots. I found that with all the dogs I trained, mainly brits and GSP's, that they took very naturally to this way of working . I did not really have to "train" them to do it.
Bill T.
If the bird did not get up to fly within about 50 yards then I allowed/encouraged the dog to resume the search by hunting for air scent.
This was not the perfect solution to the problem but it did get me a few more shots. I found that with all the dogs I trained, mainly brits and GSP's, that they took very naturally to this way of working . I did not really have to "train" them to do it.
Bill T.
The older I get, the better I was !
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- Rank: 2X Champion
- Posts: 410
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2014 7:10 pm
- Location: jellico tn
Re: relocating problem
thanks for the reply I was think along those same lines she just turned 3 and I have killed birds over her points ran her this morning she pointed 5 woodcock I got to flush
Re: relocating problem
I had a trick I used to use that might work. I'd get the dog on bird but hopefully back away's. Then relocate the dog into the bird. Once the dog got within about ten feet of the bird, I'd pop the bird. Got to where if the dog was close enough to hold the bird, it would not relocate for me. Turning over to wild birds wasn't a big thing. Just do the same and let the wild bird teach the dog how to handle it rather than you and your electronic's! BTW, I've never tried this with grouse but suspect it would work.
I pity the man that has never been loved by a dog!
Re: relocating problem
I might add that with most game birds, not in covey's. the faster and harder the dog hit's the bird, they seem to hold the bird better. I've had dog's hit pheasant hard and fast and right on top of them. You darn near need a stick of dynamite to move those birds but, they really need to be pumped up. If you dog goes in cautious and is not really intent, the bird will go out wild. If the dog goes in fairly slow and point's a bit early, the bird may either flush wild or run out. Where that point is only the wild bird can teach the dog!
I pity the man that has never been loved by a dog!