Problems with gun introduction.

[Cak920]

Hello, my German shorthair has been absolutely killing his training. In a month of training he has excelled almost everywhere so far. He locates, points, and holds point better than I would have anticipated he would this fast however the one problem I’m having is introducing the gun shot. He’s done great with the 209 primers but when I tried to shoot a 20 gauge he stopped tracking the bird and then wouldn’t bring the bird at first. He didn’t seem scared but a little startled. I do not want to make a gun shy dog so I’m going to hold off and go back to primers. Anyone have suggestions for getting him ready for the shotgun?

[deseeker]

How old is your pup/dog? Did you start your with 20 gauge in the distance and gradually work your way closer to the dog as it got used to the shot, or did you just start blasting right next to the dog?? If you describe how you have introduced the gun to the dog, it will help people to give you an answer.

[polmaise]

Gun introduction translating overseas,
I normally lay a shotgun on the floor and let the pups play all over and around it and let them sniff it , which they will, then when it is inanimate to them , I lift it up and allow them to interact with me . (you could try this with yours,even now?)
The smell of gun oil, cordite ,etc is just one phase of normality. I repetitively lift the gun and release the safety ,and repetitively cock and lock the gun when the pup(s) are just playing around my feet. (or even when their mouth is in a bowl)
Many don't require this level of detailed attention of 'gun introduction' and sail through transition of training with no issues of gun or shot!, but it takes no time at all or effort in the whole scheme of conditioning/training a gundog breed or any tbh.
Party poppers' rather than primers is an easy transition(remove the paper streamers , because over here you could get a ticket for littering . lol), and especially again when the dog is in play, and or engaging with you as an easy intro to teach and also beneficial for older dogs to learn 'stop' to shot . (you could try this with yours, even now?)
Come the day, even when the dog is advanced in other aspects of gundog training such as yours , even I use adaptors that fit in my 20 guage that take a primer/short blank .22' (they are available to purchase on line ,very affordable) and the transition of shot and gun and all thing nice are seamless ....I have found .

[birddogger2]

If one were to contrast Polmaise's gun "familiarization" technique to the OP's efforts, it would be fair to say that the OP was kinda rushing things. in a couple different ways. I think his method is less conditioning and more familiarization. I like it.

I have to say that having the dog have physical contact with the shotgun, spent shells and becoming accustomed to it and familiar with the gun and the fact that you will be carrying it... is an excellent idea.

209 primers are pretty loud, all by themselves, IMO, and I personally would not start off with them. I also would not try to combine gun conditioning with retrieving or anything else....at least not at first. Too much opportunity for a whole bunch of things to go sideways. I try to do one thing at a time and then... when the youngster is doing each task well, try to put them together. I will also say that the same exact explosive can soud VERY different, depending on what it is being shot out of and the direction it is being shot. A 209 primer shot out of a training pistol sounds different than the same 209 primer being shot out of a shotgun and the sound is different if the muzzle of the gun is pointed at the ground or up in the air. If WE can tell the difference between the sounds... you can be certain that the dog can.

I have never heard of anyone using party poppers, but they makes sense to me as a starting point. (learned something again!!)

I actually start off with a child's capgun, the kind that uses those little wheels and progress to acorn crimps(22's). THEN I progress to either full size 22 blanks or 209 primers. I also bring out the shotgun and let the youngster see me handle it. I will carry it on a training session or two and fire one shot, up in the air and pointed away from the dog... when the dog is well away (100 yards or more) and busy hunting. I will watch the dog's reaction and adjust as necessary.

I suggest that you consider "familiarizing" the youngster with the gun as Polmaise described and then carry it on a few training sessions. After you are convinced that the dog is essentially ignoring the shogun, I would cut open a couple shells, dump the shot and powder and try just the primer out of the shotgun barrel. Watch the dog, watch their reaction and proceed accordingly.

You may have a schedule in mind...but YOUR schedule is not what is important. What is important is the schedule the DOG is on. You need to train at the speed the dog can absorb and succeed at.

There is no prize for who gets the dog trained the fastest. But there sure is a price to pay for if your speed of training causes the dog to become confused or afraid. Take your time...you have all summer and a good bit of the fall as well. Training should be fun, enjoyable and rewarding...for both you and the dog. So have fun.

RayG

[gonehuntin']

Don't shoot when he's tracking, he sees no reason for the shot. Shoot when he's chasing a clip wing pigeon, just before he picks it up. Should solve the problem.