how much work
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how much work
As I have posted previously, I will be making the journey to the great plains this fall to hunt wild pheasants. This will be mine and my 1 year old GSP's first trip out west. I have read where some guys rotate dogs every hour, some hunt their dogs every other day. I plan to hunt my dog every day. I am not in the best of shape, and don't hunt extremely hard. How will I know when enough is enough? If I am tired, I should expect that the dog that is working 10x as hard as me is tired as well I assume. Is there a good rule of thumb, ie... hunt an hour, break for 30 minutes. I hear that the dog can hunt all day, that is what he is bred to do.....I don't want to risk injury, or anything worse for the pup. Is there some sure tell signs, hey better stop and rest the dog? I will carry plenty of water, and of course he should get a goods night rest each night since we can hunt till noon the next day. Just looking for advice? I already know the first time I crate him up and take off hunting without him he will freak out.
Re: how much work
I think it depending on the condition and age of the dog, if you watch you will see definite signs when to put the dog up.
Re: how much work
If the dog is conditioned you should be fine. I would also suggest toughening up the pads before the trip also, and get some good boots for you and the dog. I hunt mine for 5 days straight in MT and 3 days non stop here in KS on many occasions. Good luck and have fun.
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Re: how much work
It really depends on the dog and what it is used to. for a 1yo dog hunting every day, all day might be a little much. Especially with a young dog that hasnt really learned how to pace himself. I know that with my dogs, It usually takes them a trip or 2 to get them back in that marathon mindset early in the season. I usually keep plenty of water in my vest and a 'Bit O Honey" candy bar and if my dogs start to slow down, ill water them and give em a bit of the bar.
As far as you go, I would start getting in shape start,walking in your hunting boots and make sure you are ready, walking across the prarie, is tough work if your not ready for it, and if you show up out there and just decide your going to do it, you may hate life for a few days.
Jim
As far as you go, I would start getting in shape start,walking in your hunting boots and make sure you are ready, walking across the prarie, is tough work if your not ready for it, and if you show up out there and just decide your going to do it, you may hate life for a few days.
Jim
A limit on the strap is nice, but the kill has nothing to do with tradition.
Re: how much work
Take it slow and figure out what the dog is up for. Hunt a few hours then drive around and do some scouting to let the dog rest. Repeat. Just don't let the dog run itself out the first day.
Usually you will see it the next day, when the dog gets up to go out, if the dog is hurting they will be stiff and slow to get going. Dogs have a lot of heart and love to hunt and that desire can keep them going past the point where they should some times.
Tips:
Make sure the dog has enough water.
Protect the dog's feet. If you haven't been conditioning the dog, introduce the dog to boots and bring some along. Check the dogs feet often.
Usually you will see it the next day, when the dog gets up to go out, if the dog is hurting they will be stiff and slow to get going. Dogs have a lot of heart and love to hunt and that desire can keep them going past the point where they should some times.
Tips:
Make sure the dog has enough water.
Protect the dog's feet. If you haven't been conditioning the dog, introduce the dog to boots and bring some along. Check the dogs feet often.
Re: how much work
Conditioning is the KEY.
A dog not conditioned can blow foot pads in a very short time. Then your hunting trip is over.
If the air temperature is less than 50 degrees, then two hour a day run for a 1 year old is plenty.
BTW I don't think wild pheasants is the best bird for a young dog. Tight sitting birds like Mearns quail would be ideal.
A dog not conditioned can blow foot pads in a very short time. Then your hunting trip is over.
If the air temperature is less than 50 degrees, then two hour a day run for a 1 year old is plenty.
BTW I don't think wild pheasants is the best bird for a young dog. Tight sitting birds like Mearns quail would be ideal.
Re: how much work
You are probably right but it is hard to find a Mearns Quail in our country. There have been thousands of dogs started on pheasants over the years including all of mine and have never had a problem.reba wrote:Conditioning is the KEY.
A dog not conditioned can blow foot pads in a very short time. Then your hunting trip is over.
If the air temperature is less than 50 degrees, then two hour a day run for a 1 year old is plenty.
BTW I don't think wild pheasants is the best bird for a young dog. Tight sitting birds like Mearns quail would be ideal.
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It's not how many breaths you have taken but how many times it has been taken away!
Has anyone noticed common sense isn't very common anymore.
http://www.perfectpedigrees.com/4genview.php?id=207
It's not how many breaths you have taken but how many times it has been taken away!
Has anyone noticed common sense isn't very common anymore.
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Re: how much work
1 year of age, may find the pup not hunting as smart as later in life and while dog conditioning does matter, of course, conditions play a large part.lockedncupped wrote:As I have posted previously, I will be making the journey to the great plains this fall to hunt wild pheasants. This will be mine and my 1 year old GSP's first trip out west. I have read where some guys rotate dogs every hour, some hunt their dogs every other day. I plan to hunt my dog every day. I am not in the best of shape, and don't hunt extremely hard. How will I know when enough is enough? If I am tired, I should expect that the dog that is working 10x as hard as me is tired as well I assume. Is there a good rule of thumb, ie... hunt an hour, break for 30 minutes. I hear that the dog can hunt all day, that is what he is bred to do.....I don't want to risk injury, or anything worse for the pup. Is there some sure tell signs, hey better stop and rest the dog? I will carry plenty of water, and of course he should get a goods night rest each night since we can hunt till noon the next day. Just looking for advice? I already know the first time I crate him up and take off hunting without him he will freak out.
Not sure there is an answer other than reading your dog and being alert to changes in attention and actions...in the field, at mealtime and in the morning.
If, it is your first trip, then expect a learning curve for both of you re pheasants and hunting them up.....ongoing failure can be tiring for both dog and hunter....contacts can give energy to both.
Be mindful of the distance back to the truck...it is often shorter out than back and shorter out when a bird is in the mix driving the out.
To put a time to any activity, many hunting areas will find a big hour or two is a reasonable amount of time for a loop....apart from grasslands, I suppose.
How many of those time chunks you stack together will relate to the attention and actions mentioned earlier.
With a 1 year-old dog I would have a focus on a goal of a few contacts and successful contacts rather than a goal of hours in the day.
But, that is just me.
Re: how much work
Try to find a buddy with a dog to go with you, share the hunting and expenses.
I take 6+ dogs, and despite being in good condition, at the end of ten days at least one is on injury reserve. 5 of us will have over ten dogs in camp, few hunt longer than a couple of hours a day.
Yes, an hour or so with a rest break is a decent plan. Keep the dog well fed and hydraded, maxadextrate helps. If he gets too tired to eat, bait his food with whatever it takes.
It is too late now to do much, but he needs to be roaded at least an hour every other day, free running or swimming on the off days.
Good hunting,
I take 6+ dogs, and despite being in good condition, at the end of ten days at least one is on injury reserve. 5 of us will have over ten dogs in camp, few hunt longer than a couple of hours a day.
Yes, an hour or so with a rest break is a decent plan. Keep the dog well fed and hydraded, maxadextrate helps. If he gets too tired to eat, bait his food with whatever it takes.
It is too late now to do much, but he needs to be roaded at least an hour every other day, free running or swimming on the off days.
Good hunting,
Re: how much work
If it's early in the year and the temp is high, the humidity is high, and the cover is high---you will have to REST & WATER your dog a lot. Also you are better off feeding the dog after the hunt and he has cooled down(not a good idea working a dog hard with a full stomach). A lot of good advice in the earlier posts.
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- Donnytpburge
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Re: how much work
I go to SD every year, Its tough on me and the dogs. .I take 6 dogs, 5 pointers and a 1 flusher.
We hunt hard while we are there , so I run 2 dogs per hour and rotate.
I really step up conditioning about two months before the trip and gradually increase their calorie intake. By the time we are their they are eating about twice as much
as they normally do. After the first day they stop eating as much due to fatigue so I add bacon fat to their feed, this is the only time they get anything from the table, they take their time eating but eat it all by the next morning.
Get their pads tough, and keep them tough. 9 times out of 10 when I have a dog slow down its an injured pad.
For me I start training on the stair stepper about three months before the trip, nothing can be worse than hip flexes in a head high cat tail slough, but that is where the birds are so that is where I always end up.
As far as my dogs go I have to watch them carefully. They love hunting the open ranges, but will kill themselves doing it if I let them. Check them good for sandspurs, or cockleburs, also keep a good watch on their eyes, the blown over corn & cat tail sloughs can get in their eyes and shut them down.
As far as pheasants being used to train my pointing dogs I have not had any issues, In my opinion any wild bird is going to teach your pup the ropes so put him on the ground and let class begin, just remember you are training a youngster while your their so don't pull the trigger until he gets it right.
DB
We hunt hard while we are there , so I run 2 dogs per hour and rotate.
I really step up conditioning about two months before the trip and gradually increase their calorie intake. By the time we are their they are eating about twice as much
as they normally do. After the first day they stop eating as much due to fatigue so I add bacon fat to their feed, this is the only time they get anything from the table, they take their time eating but eat it all by the next morning.
Get their pads tough, and keep them tough. 9 times out of 10 when I have a dog slow down its an injured pad.
For me I start training on the stair stepper about three months before the trip, nothing can be worse than hip flexes in a head high cat tail slough, but that is where the birds are so that is where I always end up.
As far as my dogs go I have to watch them carefully. They love hunting the open ranges, but will kill themselves doing it if I let them. Check them good for sandspurs, or cockleburs, also keep a good watch on their eyes, the blown over corn & cat tail sloughs can get in their eyes and shut them down.
As far as pheasants being used to train my pointing dogs I have not had any issues, In my opinion any wild bird is going to teach your pup the ropes so put him on the ground and let class begin, just remember you are training a youngster while your their so don't pull the trigger until he gets it right.
DB
Re: how much work
DB,
Excellentt post with great advice.
But keep in mind he is taking only one dog that is a year old, if he waits until the dog gets it exactly right, he won't be pulling the trigger much.
I would try to keep him close and shoot everything in range. Then staunch him up when he gets back home. May be good the dog is going to be worn out.
Excellentt post with great advice.
But keep in mind he is taking only one dog that is a year old, if he waits until the dog gets it exactly right, he won't be pulling the trigger much.
I would try to keep him close and shoot everything in range. Then staunch him up when he gets back home. May be good the dog is going to be worn out.
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Re: how much work
I run the dog everyday in the field by the house. He is in pretty good shape, according to the vet. The vets ideal weight and conditioning may be different than that desired from a hunting dog. Any advice on the best way to toughen up the pads? How many recommend the wearing of boots?
Thanks for all the great advice.
Josh
Thanks for all the great advice.
Josh
Re: how much work
You are right few vets have a clue about proper conditioning, nearly every time I take a dog to a new vet, I am accused of underfeeding, if not starving him. I just smile and say thank you.
I don't know how long you are free running him, but not many will get in top shape without roading.
Unless for an injury, I am not a fan of boots. There are some commercial products that help, most contain pine tar. I have never used them. Roading takes care of it.
Enjoy.
I don't know how long you are free running him, but not many will get in top shape without roading.
Unless for an injury, I am not a fan of boots. There are some commercial products that help, most contain pine tar. I have never used them. Roading takes care of it.
Enjoy.
- Vonzeppelinkennels
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Re: how much work
I took my FC bitch in for a Brucellosis test last wk. the vet was a young lady & she surprised me by saying her weight is good for her & then stated I very seldom see dogs that I can actually see & feel their ribs!!
Star has been retired from trialing since she finished her FC because of a shoulder injury & is a few lbs over her trialing condition but still trim.
Star has been retired from trialing since she finished her FC because of a shoulder injury & is a few lbs over her trialing condition but still trim.
Star & Storm's placements
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Ted Meyer
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Ted Meyer