I am not quite sure from the product designation which units you are talking about. By that I mean, I think I read somewhere that they were going to produce a G3 version of the remote releaser, but I didn't think it is out yet, whereas the G3 and G2 EXP ecollar products are out. I have the Pro Control, which is not the G3. I can tell you about that.
The first thing you need to understand is that the TT remote release unit is just the electronics. It consists of a transmitter and whatever number of receivers you want to buy up to a max number. I am not sure what that is, it is either 8 or 12, but way more than most of us would worry about.
The transmitter has a dial with which you can select the number of the receiver (i.e. receiver #1) you want to control. The transmitter also has a green button, red button and yellow button. The yellow button activates a horn, so you have a locate feature for our example receiver #1. The green button and red button each operate one of two traps that can be attached to that receiver. In practice you would mount the receiver on one trap, and one button would activate that trap. The second trap would be connected to the remote unit via an extension wire with a max length of 15'.
As you note, I use that feature alot so I can get two flushes in one spot. That way the dog learns if it stays broke after the first flush, there may be a second one there. And it learns not to let down after the flush also, which is nice for field trialing.
The TT receiver is just a radio receiver. Since receivers are expensive, the extension cord saves quite a bit over the alternative of just setting out two traps (or more) in one area, each activated by their own built in receiver.
Since the TT is just the electronics, though, you also have to purchase traps and electical trap triggers. You can use pretty much any trap you want. I use the EZ's. There are three sizes. If you want to, you can buy a couple of different sizes and if you change from using say quail, to using chukar, you can unmount the TT and the electric triggers from your quail size trap and mount them on your chukar sized trap. Traps are cheap.
I actually do this. I usually have quail in the spring and early summer in my johnny house, and then chukar in the fall and winter. The chukar traps are a little big for quail, they can wiggle out of them, and the quail traps are too small to throw a chukar well.
Then in addition you need an electric trap trigger for each trap. The TT remote receiver just generates and electric signal or current, you need the electric trigger to take that current and convert it to mechanical means of triggering the trap. The guts of the trigger is a solenoid that moves a lever, with a battery to power the solenoid. The lever pounds down the triggering mechanism of the trap, resulting in the trap opening. For the EZ's, the trigger is about $85 per trap I believe, but you could look on www.lcsupply.com
. Even if you use the extension idea, you need one trigger per trap.
SOOOO, to run one setup of two traps connected by extension cord, you have one TT transmitter and one receiver, two electric triggers, two traps, and of course the extension cord. This would not be cheap, but to do the same with the traps that come with the remote receiver built in, such as the DT, is even more expensive because you would in effect be buying two remote receivers rather than one, in addition to the two traps and the two triggers.
I have two sets of two traps, each with one TT remote receiver. That saves around $500 in the purchase cost compared to units with built in receivers.
There are other devices that work with the TT remote. The Zinger Winger is an example. Most of them are retriever type stuff and fairly expensive. I don't have any of them.
I have had a thought, and that is that if I could design the right mechanism that would pop something up, I could use the TT remote receiver to make a pop up backer board for training backing. Innotek is the only company that makes that, and because of the quality issue I am really reluctant to use Innoteks, so I just use the manual backer boards.
It all works for me.