Puppy Troubles - Aggressiveness

[Brit1432]

I realize my pup is young yet (9 week old Brittany) but I think he's headed down a road that I don't want him to go on. He started out doing normal puppy mouthing and biting, but after we began having to correct this behavior more often, instead of eliminating the biting, he's begun to bite back harder. I want to hope he'll grow out of it and I don't want to do anything detrimental now that will hinder his ability in the field later, but I'm not sure what to do. Every thing I've read says something different how to respond and I don't want to confuse him by using many different techniques.

Would putting him in a puppy training class ruin his abilities in the field? I'd like him to be a good citizen as well as a good bird dog, but don't want to get stuck with just one or the other.

Any advice?

[Becassier]

Couple questions first.. at what age did you get your puppy and how many puppies were in the litter?

2 things about Brittany's
1.) Nothing cuter than a Brittany puppy
2.) Nothing sharper than their teeth

[kninebirddog]

To me mouthing is not acceptable at all ..puppies grow into behavior they do it just grow out of them...when I have a mouthy pup I change the game forcing my hand where the pup wants my hand out of the mouth. Here is.a link to how I approach puppy foundation http://www.kninebirddog.com/puppy-foundations.html

[roaniecowpony]

Seems like you got the pup pretty early.

[shags]

If my pups mouth too hard while chillin' in the recliner with us, we circle the top jaw with our fingers and press the lips against the teeth; or, press a thumb on the pup's tongue and hold the mouth open. Depends on which way happens faster or easier. The idea is make the pup uncomfortable, so hang on until he gives in or gets distressed enough to try to squirm away. You have to repeat this a lot, but IME pups will outgrow the mouthing over time IF you don't allow escalation.

For snapping/biting because they're ticked off, they get a darn good shake by the scruff of the neck and get told NO BITE!!
The shake-up has to make a big impression, little nags don't get the job done. Rule at our house is "no dog teeth on people skin" so we set up situations that might tempt the pup to snap, like having him give up a toy, putting our fingers in his bowl during a meal, messing with ears and toes, etc. This isn't meant to be a continual harassment of the pup, but maybe one test a day. If he reacts properly, he gets a "good boy" and is let alone to do what he was doing.

Some pups are submissive and learn really quickly, but others are much more bossy and need a firmer hand with correcting the problem. If they learn to submit when they are little it makes life so much easier later on - no screaming, biting, snapping, peeing, or other hysterics when you have to clean ears or teeth, apply meds, or trim nails.

[birddogger]

Shags is right on.

Charlie

[Sharon]

see Shags' comment. Be very firm. Don't be shy. If you got him before 7 weeks he may have not learned bite inhibition from his Mom. I've found puppy classes to be a good opportunity for socialization etc.

[Brit1432]

He came home with us at a little over 7 weeks and mom threw 12 pups. I don't have a problem with getting a little more aggressive with him. My girlfriend does. She's not the aggressive type and has really had to change her whole outlook on how he's handled. I don't want him walking all over her. It feels like a thin line to walk to me. Before the biting came around, he was learning quickly. Picking up commands and following them to "t". Now, since we've been reprimanding him constantly and he's become more comfortable with his environment, it seems as if he doesn't want to listen anymore. It's almost as if he doesn't trust us.

I'd hate for the foundation to be ruined so early because if this dog holds up to his bloodline, there's quite a bit of potential there. It's hard to teach him anything right now with the little problems that have popped up recently.

The comment about the teeth is spot on. I've never felt teeth that sharp on an animal. Like little hypodermic needles. I can't wait until they fall out in to the carpet and I step on one in the middle of the night on my way to the bathroom.

[ezzy333]

Take the advice you have received but also remember the pup is 9 weeks old. ( week old puppies are many times still fighting with their littermates and trying to learn puppy things. That puppy is just about as far advanced as a 10 to 12 month old baby. It has been walking for barely a month. It has no one but you to wrestle with or to exercise it's jaw muscles on. It has to grow up and that is about a three year adventure depending on how much you help. Patience is the greatest characteristic you need to make the little puppy that is exploring a big strange world into a confident dog that you can enjoy for several years. You don't teach puppies a lot but rather you shape them like a piece of clay.

Ezzy

[mountaindogs]

It is both normal and a behavior that needs to change. Like jumping to greet, roughhousing with teeth is built in and you have to redirect and re-teach. Biting litter mates was okay as play but with you NOT OKAY. It's hard for them to learn. Imagine if you suddenly moved to a culture where laughing and smiling was considered hostile. It would takes some time to retrain your brain. Keep on keepin on. And realize some puppies get MORE riled up with any contact. They think you are playing back. Sometimes a firm no or loud YELP! (and I mean LOUD. Yell it!) and leaving the area will work better than a muzzle shake or lip fold or such. Sometime not. Read your puppy and if they get worse instead of better try a different approach.

[birddogger]

You have a normal 9 wk. old puppy. Follow the advise given and I don't see a problem as long as your girlfriend can realize that corrections and teaching manners is not cruelty. I see so many people now days who view any type of correction as being mean or cruel whether it be dogs or kids. What you end up with is an out of control dog or child that nobody wants to be around. Oh, and yelling "ouch" when a puppy nips you will get you no where.

Charlie

[shags]

I wouldn't even bother with obedience commands until you get over this issue. Pick your battle...is it more important to have a bratty dog that does parlor tricks ( for that's all obedience commands in a little baby puppy are) or a civilized member of the family that won't hurt you ? You have plenty of time to reteach the other stuff.

Your pup sounds perfectly normal. His behavior needs to be reined in. He counts on you to do it. You and the GF don't have to be Big Meanies all the time, but you must be firm, fair disciplinarians.

Yelling ouch and leaving the room when you get bitten will teach the dog that he has the power in your home. It's YOUR house, not his, he shouldn't be allowed to bite you then run you off - and that's exactly how he'll view it.

[Becassier]

Here is a link to a you tube video..
Your puppy is 9 weeks old and is typical behavior, 7 weeks is a little early.. they learn a lot between 7 - 10 weeks from littermates and mom.

http://youtu.be/B028QGucBH8

[codehttp://youtu.be/B028QGucBH8][/code]

hope one of these work also go on the www.steadywithstyle.com
its a great blog and Puppy Development by Pat Hastings and Erin Ann Rouse (available on Amazon)

[mountaindogs]

*Sigh* I am done with NICENESS today. Some people on this board know everything and will tell you that only correction works. Or it never works. I DO USE CORRECTION for this and for many other things. I have taught all breed puppy classes for a while now and do have some extensive experience with this even with deaf puppies and very poorly socialized shelter dogs! All I am saying is that SOME PUPPIES do not respond well to correction as they think it is rough play and GET WORSE. THOSE PUPPIES do better with a different method. And often THOSE PUPPIES (remember from above - we are talking about the ones that get worse with correction) respond better to getting isolated and learning that biting STOPS play instead of keeps it going. A loud OUCH and a loud NO are really no different to a puppy.
:roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:

anyway as stated - it's normal. I deal with it with every single puppy in every single class. Some worse than others.

[mountaindogs]

It is both normal and....
And realize
some puppies get MORE riled up with any contact. They think you are playing back. Sometimes a firm no or loud YELP! (and I mean LOUD. Yell it!) and leaving the area will work better than a muzzle shake or lip fold or such. Sometime not. Read your puppy and if they get worse instead of better try a different approach.

[mountaindogs]

..........but after we began having to correct this behavior more often, instead of eliminating the biting, he's begun to bite back harder......

[birddogger]

No offense intended mountaindogs. Please don't quit being nice.

Charlie

[BVK]

As most have mentioned to this point, this is pretty normal or typical puppy behavior to nip, bite, mouth, as they play. It will also increase later as they are teething. With that said, as the puppy ages and this type of behavior continues and or gets worse, it grows into a dominance issue. In other words, the puppy is establishing his/her position as alpha of your "family" pack. If this is allowed to happen, you will have issues beyond the aggressiveness you are experiencing now.

If you have not already done so, you may do subtle things (and not so subtle things) that communicate to your pup that you and your GF are at the top of your pack hierarchy and that pup is clearly at the bottom. Roll pup on his back and hold him there and hover over him until he stops struggling and submits before you allow him up. Do not let him jump on you, put his paws up on you (or even rest a paw on your foot), sit on furniture, etc. Once you and your GF have established your and pup's place in your pack, everything goes smoother. If he is allowed to take the alpha spot, you will have rough sledding from here on out.

I very much agree with a previous post that all pups are different and some view the correction as play and the behavior amplifies. Good advice to read your dog and their behavior and find ways to discourage the behavior by not giving pup what it wants....

[kninebirddog]

If puppy nips and buts at monma, monma will snap and snarl and put pup in its place and then she goes on her way ie she doesn't tolerate the undesired behavior.
It is testing

[Brit1432]

Knine- We used your method of the two fingers and thumb at his bottom jaw and it seems to be working. He licks my hand and wants nothing to do with hers after she did it. He still does a lot of play biting but his aggressiveness has been toned down exponentially. He'll slip up now and again, but once those fingers are in his mouth, it doesn't take long for him to remember. We've also adopted a lot of techniques from your website and they're working like gangbusters. Thank you to all who offered support...it's greatly appreciated!

[birddog1968]

I picked up my last pup at 6 weeks , usually got most pups before 8 weeks. They all bite and nip even ones brought home at 10 weeks. Consistent correction works, bust his butt and forget about hurting pups feelings....momma dog wouldn't worry.