GSP Puppy biting problem

trailgoose · Post by **trailgoose** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:50 pm

My new GSP is now eight weeks old. Lately he has been not just nibbling on my wife and I, but a full out biting frenzy. I know he is just a puppy, but i have never ever had a dog that would bite the crap out of you. I start by firmly correcting him with the command no, and replace my body with somesort of toy. This does not work and he ussually just gets more frusterated and continues to bite harder and harder. I have chosen not to disipline him yet by any kind of physical punishment but rather just show him im boss. Id rather have a dog that is not shy to the hand. Lately when he has been doing this i put him on his back and hold him down until he quits, which ussually takes a while. Afterwards he is fine for a little bit, but then the process starts all over. I know this sounds like a goofy post of someone that cant take a small puppy biting his hand, but i have never had a puppy that would bite this intensly! Im most worried about him being around other people or children. Thats why i would like to get a hold on it right now.

So, am i doing anything right? Is their anything i can do different or better? Thanks, Nick

schultz's honor · Post by **schultz's honor** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 5:43 am

When your pup bites, you need to bite back. What I mean by this is when bites at you grab its muzzle and roll a lip against his teeth and apply pressure. You can also use your thumbnail applying pressure to the roof of his mouth.
He is not going to like those puppy teeth any more than you do.

gonehuntin' · Post by **gonehuntin'** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:49 am

I don't allow puppy biting, especially as you describe. As Schultz said, pince that nose and pinch it hard against his upper canines, commanding NO.

If that doesn't work, bite him back on the nose when he bites you. Once you actually bite a dog back, mose understand that and quit biting.

Or do what Ma might do and pick him up by the nap of the neck and shake him, commanding NO.

Don't let this continue or it can continue through his life. You'll also set the stage for his future training by forcing him to submit to you now.

snips · Post by **snips** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 7:18 am

I would also suggest a nip on the nose back, giving a Ahhhh. Then if it starts you can just say Ahh and should be enough, as they do not want to get nipped again.

Post by **kninebirddog** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 7:25 am

http://www.gundogforum.com/index.php?page=gdfarticle19

Biting and or nipping are undesired behaviors that should be nipped in the bud right at the start. This is the method that I like to use. When the pup starts to bite or nip I will take my 2 fingers and place them sideways in the mouth with my thumb under the jaw. I then place my other hand behind the head. This helps to brace the pup so they cannot harm themselves by pulling away. Hold this position till the pup stops struggling. As soon as the pup stops struggling to get your fingers out of the mouth, quickly say “release” and roll your fingers gently backwards to take them out.
This changes the rules of the pup’s game. I will then place my hand in front of the pup’s mouth; the pup should LICK your hand. This is a sign of accepting who is the alpha. If the pup should try and mouth your hand repeat the application. I have found that after a couple of applications this behavior ceases. And again I want to stress none of these actions are to ever harm or physically hurt the pup ever. The pup may whine and vocalize some discontent but never pain.

Most important thing this will set quite a few paramters with your pup which goes beyond just stopping the nipping and biting

Even a mother dog will quickly Snap and growl at an obnonioux pup and you will hear discontent and a whine and yelp from the pup...

never in anger

and besure the pup has given in

some pups require only 1 or 2 apps I ahve seen a few which took quite a few reminders

if you have a stubbrorn one...make sure you let them struggle it out they will settle for amoment but if they are still nipping kep the hold till the struggle to get out of the hold again and relax...Had a guy with a setter pup said the whole time his pup was struggling a second time the tail was up and wagging....even through the whines of discontent the pusp tail was up and wagging

He has a hard headed case But most important the nipping is ceasing..and his pup isn't even 8 weeks old yet

Good Luck and most important thing to remember in that puphis whole life is about parameters and complaince so What you ALLOW him to do You teach him to do. Backed up with another favorite says Dogs do not grow out of behaviors they grow into them.

Casper · Post by **Casper** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 7:45 am

IME all the biting back does nothing.

I have had better results from just grabbing pup by the nap of the neck and picking him up a short ways from the ground. Pup will squeal in fright but as long as you hold him there he will settle and become limp. As soon as pup settles put him down and let him return to his play. As long as you show now emotion pup will learn that every time he does something you dont like he looses his ground and will stop what he was doing.

You dont need to hurt pup to get him to do things right.

FWIW

bobman · Post by **bobman** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:17 am

Casper wrote:IME all the biting back does nothing.

I have had better results from just grabbing pup by the nap of the neck and picking him up a short ways from the ground. Pup will squeal in fright but as long as you hold him there he will settle and become limp. As soon as pup settles put him down and let him return to his play. As long as you show now emotion pup will learn that every time he does something you dont like he looses his ground and will stop what he was doing.

You dont need to hurt pup to get him to do things right.

FWIW

Thats exactly what I do also. Very simple and works everytime

trailgoose · Post by **trailgoose** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:25 am

Thanks for all the replies guys, The pup actually went into another frenzie this morning after he ate, i grabbed him by the neck like yall said and picked him up. He definately didnt like this at first but finally submitted and just hung their for a second and looked at me. I then let him go back to his play and he seemed somewhat better. I think I may try this way out for a while and see if he makes in improvement.

Also one more question about feeding? I am currently feeding the purina puppy chow, I am going by the recommendations on the side of the bag. It is around one a half cups a day. He seems like he needs more food to me though? Do yall think i should feed him a little bit more since he is so active or is this about right? Thanks, Nick

Bigsur009 · Post by **Bigsur009** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:09 am

I'm not as knowledgable as most of the guys on this site, but I think of the guidelines on the bag as suggestions not requirements. My 7 month old vizsla is super-active and has always eaten more than the bag recommends for his size and age. He doesn't have an ounce of fat on his body and stays in great shape. If it were me, I'd feed the pup what he needs, not what the bag recommends for the average dog. good luck.

Post by **kninebirddog** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:19 am

Depends on the quality of the ingredients and the calories per cup the dog gets

The feed we feed on a rule I feed less then what the bag states or I end up with some Fat dogs and then a few i feed on the money where I had to feed more of another breand to get the same reslts

Post by **ezzy333** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:39 am

Look at your dog and you decide if he needs more. The pup will tell you if he wants more. I have never looked at the calories in a food but rather go by how much the pup wants to eat and go from there. If it is getting too heavy cut it back.

Remember you are feeding a dog and not the dogfood. The dog is the only one that can tell you the right amount.

Ezzy